sc0tt

My Feedback: (61)

I know electric retracts are still a new venture for most, but does anyone have experience with Behotec C50 electrics? I am referring to Behotec's own E line, NOT ones converted by other companies.

http://www.altecare.com/behoteceline.htm

Thanks for any info...

bcovish

My Feedback: (8)

You start on that Shockwave?

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Here's some info that may be helpful/interesting, including video:
http://www.ultimate-jets.net/blogs/j...ract-gear-line

sc0tt

My Feedback: (61)

Just doing some research now, but will be starting it shortly. Sean, thanks for the info - saw it a while back. I've been following Behotec's electric stuff back to when they were working with GZ. Problem is nobody I knowhas any real long term experiences with electric gear.

My concerns are how long the threads in that brass slider will hold up going back & forth all the time. Flying off grass with clippings, dust/dirt along with theoccasional morning dew concern me. Also if you check out Behotec's retract weights, a set of 3 electric weigh about 1/2 lb more than the air. Now add batteries & electric brakes it would come out to about 1 lb more vs. air.

Was thinking about trying something different, but may just stick to the old reliable air system - unless someone can pursuade me otherwise.

olnico

We do.
We've been the official dealer for GZ products in the USA for 2 years now and done quite a few conversions with this system.
http://www.ultimate-jets.net/pages/e...tom-conversion

The older conversion I have had done by Guenther is now 3 years and no problem with it.
Grass operations is absolutely not a problem as the effort is not bearing on the thread but on the trunion.
This is especially true with the new stepped motor system of the E-Tract as the positioning of the trunion in the stop is extremely precise.
If you compare the weight of the full system with common ECU/ gear battery and cables vs full pneumatic, the weight difference is about 0,2 lbs on the C36 and 0.25 lbs on the C50.

http://www.ultimate-jets.net/collect...nding-gear-set

sailing1

My Feedback: (134)

I have just completed the install of the C50 F (thin wing) gear on my new Comp Arf SKygate Viper. Nose gear is a C40 but mains are C50. So far I have only taxi tested the plane and gear but am impressed with them to this point. The stepped motor is very accurate and they amp out nicely if something gets in their way.

These are probably a little over kill on my 36 lb (dry) Viper but I can promise you they are powerful. They have no problem retracting the gear with the plane sitting on the concrete run wayjust a smooth normal close. Hopefully I have that exercise out of my system.

As to weight, they are a little heavier than air gear but oh so much more simple to install. Sure is nice to not have all that air line running everywhere and to not worry about leaks.

sc0tt

My Feedback: (61)

Thanks for the additional info.

Regarding weight difference, this is what I come up with per Behotec's published #'s...
C50F retract - Electric 227g -Air 168g= 59g per retract difference x 3 = 177g more
brake hub - Electric 62g -Air15g = 47g per brake difference x 2 = 94g more
So E retracts & brakes add a total of 271g (9.5592 oz or 0.5975 lbs) in weight NOT including a battery

PaulD

My Feedback: (39)

Don't get the electric stuff. Spend another 25 to 50 bucks on better tube/fittings, and 98% of the leak issues will go away. From these posts, seems you will also save yourself a lb and a few hundred bucks. The primary benefit is scale operation IMO. The early adopters around here are having lots of grief/reliability issues.

PaulD

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

Work awesome I have a set of C-50 e and they are stronger than the electron retracts, plus the good thing about these is all the options altecare has for trunion and pin sizes.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Does the Behotec program have a failsafe? I was thinking it would have a low voltage - gear down type signal?

How many cycles should we expect to have to service the thread/motor?

While I am skeptical, we are always relying on electric motors to keep the plane flying, so why not let it control the gear? Just a thought.



Thanks
Dave

sailing1

My Feedback: (134)

Yes it does have a failsafe that is user programmable. I am using a 4000mah 3 cell lipo and I have mine set at something like 10 volts. But the gear uses so little power that I can't imagine ever dropping into the failsafe range.

Don't have the slightest Idea about cycles/service. I have about 40 flights on mine and probably another 50-75 test cycles and no sign of wear on the threads.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks for the information. Do you have the control unit any certain distance from other components?
Are you using electric brakes?

sailing1

My Feedback: (134)

Control unit is about 4 inches away from both the ECU for the Jet Central Rhino and about the same distance away from the Futaba 6014 receiver. I run two Li Ion batteries through a power box dual regulated switch to the receiver and one of the these batteries also powers the smoke pump. 2 cell Lipo for ecu and 3 cell lipo for gear and brakes. Haven't had any problems.

I am using the first generation of the Behotec electric brakes and they are not great. They will stop the plane but makes flying out of our 400 foot paved strip a little more challenging. I understand there is a second generation of the these brakes out now so maybe they would work better.

ddennison

My Feedback: (15)

Do your gear turn the thread through the brass piece?

sailing1

My Feedback: (134)

If I understand your question the answer is yes, the drive screw runs through the threaded piece which makes the gear go up and down.

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

A while back I posted about how I wasn't sure about electric retracts well I still stand by that, but with the right precations electric is a contender. The main thing you need to watch out for is crap getting in the jackscrew this cause cause the motor mech to malfunction. I really wish vendors would have a fully sealed retract body with a latex balon covering the trunion so dirt could not get through. Dirt, small pieces of grass, and crap are what I believe to be the main causes for electric gears locking up.

If I had to rank:

1) Electron Gear
2) Behotec Gear
3) Down & locked (Not recommended for anything over 20KG fueled, sorry but the motors on these are just wimpy, even the new ones)

I am waiting to get a set for AIRTECH, these guys are working on a heavy duty electron gear.


Also pro-link from Dreamworks seems to have a set, but these only work with 1/2 inch struts.

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

My experience with electric brakes: SUCK, stick to air, 1 line isn't that bad, yes I know the dream is no air required but I'll take the Air based brakes over the electric any day.

patrnflyr

My Feedback: (7)

My son just installed the electric RG conversions from Dreamworks on our Élan and they seem to work really well. Taking the air stuff out was harder than converting to electric. The electric brakes will go from a very light braking action to almost dead locked up and is fully proportional. No flight experience yet but sure seem to work well on the bench.

sailing1

My Feedback: (134)

Mine seem to work well on the bench as well. In actual use the weight and momentum of the plane landing seem to overwhelm the magnetic force of the brakes pretty fast. Mine seem to work a little better if I pay very close attention to the wheel to brake spacing,

I would still like more braking power but don't think I would consider going to air at this point -- not for the Viper anyway. If I slow down enough and manage my approach well (as we all should) then the brakes are adequate and will stop the plane in 150 feet or so.

sc0tt

My Feedback: (61)

I decided to give Behotec electric C50-F a try in my Shockwave. So far I am impressed with the retracts and programming functions. Hopefully they will be as reliable as my Behotec air units have been in the past.

Regarding brakes, the older style had a steel disk screwed to the rim creating a small gap between it and the magnet. I believe that may be why they were a little weak.

The latest version of Behotec brakes use a floating disk similar to Intairco and Electron. The disk is guided by the rim screws and pulled against the magnet upon brake application. So far I have only bench tested by hand with a 7.4v 4400mah 2S lipo. The 30% default braking force was very good. I adjusted to 100% and could barely turn a 4" wheel by hand. So it appears they are now capable of more than adequate braking force.

sailing1

My Feedback: (134)

Thanks Scott. That does appear to have quite a bit more braking area. I may have to give Peter at Altecare a call and see if I can upgrade.

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

Just ordered a set of the behotec electrics for the carf tutor. Hopefully will have them in a couple of weeks and even more, I hope they work well. 500 premium over air... Hopefully was worth it..

EDFCrazy

has anyone got any more experience with these C50 electric retracts? how reliable are they after prolonged use? Are the electric brakes any good? ive not found many videos showing the C50's operate, has anyone got some flight or test footage of them working?

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

I have played with mine on the bench a bit. They seem to be well built, the brakes look like they have plenty of force. With proper care they should last as long as anything else.

sailing1

My Feedback: (134)

I have a set of the C50 retracts with Behotec struts and electric brakes on my Comp Arf Skygate Viper. Had an initial problem with a bad brake that caused a controller failure but after fixing that they have performed perfect for 40 or so landings and lots more test cycles. The trailing link struts are really good. Mine has generation one brakes which work but don't have really great stopping power. I have heard the generation two brakes are much better though.