YPC

Howzit 'Milk Man John'......good to hear from you !......Thanks !...that one is off to New York !

Personally .....I think Steve's boat was fast enough.....BUT...I suppose 'fast' is never fast enough !.....LOL
It will be interesting to see it all together on the water......Just remind him......."You have to 'finish' a race to win it "....its better to finish than be fast !....LOL
Take care ...Boet !
One of the Enigma 'Camber' outboard legs below id for Greg DeanSmith ( Flipper) - he will be joining the F1 Gas class with you guys this season. I also gave hime a CAT of mine which he wants to race with as well.

Have a great 2014 season !


Jay !.......good looking set up.....very neat looking boat.....The Pipe does detract from the beautiful scale leg......I would certainly go HVFE with that leg - covered by a scale cowling......look forward to seeing some 'action footage'....I replied to the PM proposal...

Had an inquiry about the Brass Tube on my Enigma Camber Leg...so I thought I would answer it on the forum for all.

It was about the 'strength' of the tube: I use a 'thick wall' brass tube to create the radius for the flex shaft to run in. To date I have not had a tube being damaged in any way shape or form. ( it is very hardy) I had to make up a serious 'bending tool' to accurately shape the tube to the desired radius - first needing some good heat to anneal the brass - just to bend it.

Have a Gas weekend Guys !

YPC

Hanging the leg on the transom !.......

From my experience - the transom mount plate and pivot block of an outboard gas leg needs to be a very tough/strong arrangement - the gas motors are heavy - vibrate like crazy - generate huge resonance from the prop and tune pipe.....and.......takes a hammering on impact , when the boat flips or rolls at speed.

So - whether comparing legs or designing/building your own - make sure you start with a "STRONG' transom mount and pivot block arrangement.

I use a 3mm Stainless Steel plate for the Transom mount plate mounted with 5mm diameter bolts. - and - a 16mm Billet aluminium block for the pivot block.
The leg itself- is made up of stainless steel 'components' bolted together. which is a very rigid arrangement - BUT - allows a degree of flex and absorption - enduring vibrations and impact.

With the Enigma design - it is really easy to remove the leg/motor from the transom. - without having to remove the transom mount - steering rods and throttle cable - It is literally a case of removing the two 5 mm bolts and the leg slips off/on......

Tiekie

Hi Dom
Glad to see you are still building boats
Nice clean workshop and workmanship....
just one safety concern...the baby grinder needs a blade guard !!!!
I know I know...it hampers the accuracy !! lol

Your YPC F1 beat me by 50 points (out of a 9000 total) last season... EINA
Hope to see you out of "ritirement" some day soon
Boating Regards
Tiekie

YPC

Hey Tiekster !......thanks for the good advise....!

As we know - it takes more than just a good boat to win a series -it takes "Lots of Luck" in all areas... Better luck this season...it looks like it will be a good one.

I wont be racing the gas class any time soon - if ever - I am more focused on developing the HVFE F1 stuff - I am much the wiser with regards to the electric stuff now after developing the Bro ******** and I am totally sold on the electric performance and capability........simply put........ its the future of rc...and its fast !

It is also the better economic choice ( bang for your bucks) going forward for all - the electric boat's can run/race at far more venues.....making it a far more usable investment for the owner, than a gas outfit. The above Green O/B F1 I am shipping to NY - is going to be an Electric set up....

I am in the process to secure a beautiful piece of water on a farm just to the left of the Blue Route Highway at the Tokai turn off in the Southern Suburbs - for 'electric boat' racing - to start in 2014. If I pull it together we are going to start racing a HVFE 'inboard' F1 class ( I have 5 definite pilots in the wings)
The inboard "Cuadwell Marine F1" has been a huge inspiration to me ...... http://www.caudwellracing.com/ I want to keep the class as affordable and as simple as possible -Plug in and race !....... to grow it fast and sustain it.

Keep well !

YPC - aka - Dom the Bomb !

F1TUNNEL

Hi Dom!
Will you be bringing back your inboard camber lower drive set up for this? Will you be doing any hull mods for the higher speeds or won't they be needed,
cheers,
Dion

YPC

Hi Dion...my inboard Camber leg ' would add big bucks to the cost'...( huge problem 'Currently' excuse the pun)..and frankly....IMO...for what it is worth - compared to the inexpensive standard strut and rudder - besides the aesthetics...I cant say it is worth it.....
With the F1 hull - having the rudder mounted quite close to center ....the left turn works well...


The hull will be fine - I use the extended transom deck mold so that the prop is set back at the correct distance.
I only want to achieve speeds of 85 - 100 km/h - so as to keep the cost down and the racing within a reasonable racing capability........ we will keep the cell count stock....8s - so those who already have high Amp 4s packs for their other models, can run them in series to make up 8s's in the boats. 28.8v's x 750kv motor will deliver plenty of power /speed...at a reasonable cost outlay

F1TUNNEL

Hi Dom,
thanks for the great reply, I forgot to ask about radio box mods , will you be changing this to a bigger built in box? Sounds like you are all over as per usual I hear you on the cost thing- seems no one has they 'play money' they used to.
On the ib camber pic, I see you have a small strut mounted, is it welded or adjustable? Got any more pics of it? I had wondered how you braced this part,
pics of the build are great Dom and the info is a great read also
Cheers,
Dion

YPC

Hi Dion

Their will be two radio boxes 'in tandem down the center fuselage . connected to each other to be able to pass the ESC/Battery power cables through - the front box will accommodate the Lipo batteries and the aft box will accommodate the : RX - ESC - Steering servo and battery pack for RX and steering servo.......should result in a good CG ....without the usually required weight in the nose as with the OB's

Money sure is becoming a diminishing commodity around the world........I was trying to explain the current global economic situation to my kids at dinner a while back.....telling them that 'the money had gone'........my 4 year old Cassidy piped up...."who's got it ?"........good question Cassy........we would all like to know the answer to that one.......LOL

The stuffing tube is held in place by the bracket which is welded to the transom mount plate.......

I plan to start building a YPC HVFE IB F1 ( that acronym should impress the Americans...LOL) in the coming weeks : we are currently doing some research/testing- looking to use the latest epoxies will epoxy gel coat resins- still using the bagged vacuum process and plus/minus 45 degree cloth, with some honey comb composite materials in place of the wooden ply.....if it works out , it will be a great boat......I will share the build on my F1 HVFE RCU Forum........which has been dormant for quite some time.


I do not currently have stock of these inboard drives:

F1TUNNEL

Thanks for the pics Dom!!! Can you send me the measurements for that strut piece or if you have a spare that would be great mine does not have that piece.
Will you do an outboard version of the FE hull?
Cheers,
Dion

YPC

If I can get the Electric IB F1 to run as well as my YPC gas Inboard........I will be 'very happy'

I wont be running the Electric F1 with a camber leg........ will use the standard strut and rudder.....

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kJhGrm8xcc[/youtube]

YPC

Hi Dion.....I will get those specs for you....I cant remember why I stopped fitting them - but - we did run them without the bracket as well.

Some guys are using the current S/S Enigma OB leg for an OB electric set up. I reckon a nicely colored anodized aluminum Enigma Camber leg would look quite the business - I'll see how the IB class goes and take it from their....

YPC

Feast your eyes on this.......Arrow Shark have some amazing F1 Gas products......if you have the Money !

Take a look at their home page - page to the Outboard Drive billet units - simply stunning stuff.

The traditional Lawless looking OB leg with the clutch IMO would present the motor 'to high'.....but the scale units look amazing....Love to see them actually running on a hull !

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11573840/tm.htm

YPC

For those who have not had any insight to modern Electric Performance !

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pZbQHlIYb0[/youtube]

Give a 'rough' view of the kind of layout......as I mentioned before - I am going 2 X 4s ( 8s's)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncrzXigxX14[/youtube]

Tiekie

Hi Dom
What is the size and weight of that one
does not seem much bigger than our 7.5cc class boats
It will not be much good in the Cape windy conditions will it?
Regards

YPC

Hi Tikkie !

I cant comment on the Hull design as I have not seen it 'close up' . It does not have an extended transom - which is half the problem with its porpoising - the prop is not back far enough.

It is however actuallya gas inboard 26 cc hull - much the average 1/4 scale size - I don't know of any authentic F1 hull big or small - that handles windy conditions and rough water - its not F1 water.

YPC

ANIMAL96

YPC . IS THERE A WAY TO BUY YOUR PRODUCTS , I LIVE IN FL. USA.THANKS ALLEN

YPC

YES !....with money !.....LOL

My PC has been down the past 24 hrs - struggling to reply to past posts and mails.....mail me : [email protected]

YPC

ANIMAL96

YPC, DID YOU GET MY EMAIL.THANKS ALLEN

jay384

Hey Dom I sent you some emails did you get them?

would have been around a week ago about your hull and the geared lower leg.

Body Guard

Watch a few of my different F1 style design handling the the windy and rough water. Sounds like someone has forgotten that it's good to have a 'rough water hull' for those windy days. lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iclwmrAtFZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsSFcKaL7sQ

This one has gone thru testing with inboard and outboard set up and will soon be ready for production.
Video was taken with Ipad and not satisfactory for a good viewing. Hopefully it just enough to get an idea of the potential of this design.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILefGYEZNRw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PREOOVXk2ZA

Happy tunnel hull boating guys.

YPC

Great Stuff Body Guard !...good to hear from you.

Here is another Great F1 O/B race to enjoy - View more of our past F1 races on the last page of my YouTube page : http://www.youtube.com/user/formulaish

Orange Boat is "Dom the Bomb !"......running the Enigma Camber Leg ( all the boats are YPC hulls)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaYJRsN8MJ8[/youtube]

Picture attached gives a relevant size of the boats:

YPC

ozzie

Gday guys, need some help with prop selection. I have an insane hull, ypc leg. the props I have tied so far(6717/2, 7018/2,2716/2) must all have lift because they all stick the nose down, the boat pulls quiet badly to the right & also is very easy to spin out in turns. i then tried a prathers 270, the difference was quiet dramatic, the boat sat nicely on the water(nose up), ran nice & straight but was reluctant to turn. I was thinking of trying a bit of weight in the front. was just wondering what other props work well (obviously need something with low lift). cheers oz

jay384

Ozzie maybe try a 6516/3 I had a an outboard tunnel with an MHZ leg and the tunnel hull i had loved tbhe smaller prop and it really worked well. Just a thought

jpelezo

ozzie I ran a mod 270 ss on my insane tunnel with lawless drive raise up 1/2". ran very well, pic is posted on around page 67-78thanks, jim pelezo

ozzie

thanks Jay. I see a bloke has a 6516/2 forsale . Imight give it a go.


Hey Joe. I am at about 1/4" up now. I might lift it up to 1/2" & see what happens.

Thanks for your replies.

Oz