coralcape

My Feedback: (4)

Exactly Ernie, That's why I wanted to know the procedure for removing it. It's sort of like knowing the procedure for putting a ring on a piston. If you don't know, you break a ring. Don't want to damage this beautiful engine. red

captinjohn

This isa copy & paste from another forum. Get in touch with Claudio or Where you bought the engine. That may be the best.

QUOTE:
With the translation help of a Italian FG member (thank you!!!), I sent a note to Claudio on Wednesday this week, detailing what I've found to date, performance improvements and the Bowman ring / rumours of thinner cylinder coating.

Claudio responded yesterday (great response time!!) with the following comments.....
* He stated that he has had a bad batch of rings
* He said he feels it's impossible that my M60 is overbore (ie: less coating thickness)
* He'd like me to send him the motor, exhaust, stock ring and Bowman ring and he will inspect and advise.

I have sent Claudio's response to Blaine at TopDawg and Blaine supports me sending it back.

I'm just awaiting Claudio's shipping address and will get it in the mail. This is likely going to cost me another ~$100.00 to ship to Italy, however I support the Mintor brand and if my motor can help Claudio for future motors or to improve the M60 engine, I'll do it.

It'll be interesting to see if mine is a dud or if Claudio feels my M60 is performing as expected. In the meantime, I have put my DLE55 back in the Pilot Edge and it is performing flawlessly with insane performance!!!

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

Do the Mintor 33 & 38 have the same prop-bolt pattern as the DLE 30/35? If so, can you use the DLE single-bolt adapter that Valley View RC sells (which also works on the PTE-36)?

Also are there any 'wraparound' mufflers that will fit on either engine?

Thanks!

Ernie Misner

coralcape, when you look at the back side of the crank where the pin is located can you tell if the pin is pressed into the crank or in there permanently? Also does that keeper look to be pressed onto the pin or welded or machined into place?

TimBle

The 33 propeller bolt circle diameter is 29mm, it does not match the DLE30's BCD.

coralcape

My Feedback: (4)

Ernie, the crankpin looks to be a different diameter either end. Smaller on the front of engine than the rear. It is possible the pin is pressed in from the front. There is a slight chamfer on the pin. No hurry, I'll still wait awhile for a response from Topdawg. Looking at it logically, the crank will need to be heated and pin pressed out from front to rear. red

captinjohn

Read post #91...I made.....with photo. Another Idea you could PM Ken Lambert. He has placed needle bearings in many SuperTiger engines. If my Mintor ever goes out of warrenty and the rod needs attention...I would try to get Ken to place a new hardened pin and standard needle bearings in my engine. Give him a PM....all he can say is no. Best Regards, Capt,n

captinjohn

Ken,s Website http://www.lambertsrc.com/ Take care, Capt,n

coralcape

My Feedback: (4)

Finally got the crank straight. Being kind of lazy, I didn't go any further in asking the experts for advice. I went back to my beginnings and used the eyeball heavy hammer method. First, I couldn't get the rod off the crank ( tried heat and pressure, but didn't want to do any damage) so I put the crank in the front half case, put on a prop and rotated to find high spot. Then I removed the crank forn the case half and put it in vise and used a two,pound hammer to straighten. Crude, but it worked. The crank seems soft and was bent in two places. Prop now has no runout and I'm happy. Thanks for all advice. red

Ernie Misner

Did you have a hydraulic press when trying to press the crank pin out?

coralcape

My Feedback: (4)

Nope Ernie. I couldn't figure how to support the crank while applying pressure. I'm guessing it takes a special tool. Strangely, the crank pin was 2mm larger in diameter on the keeper side?? red

Ernie Misner

Well not that the crank is straightened and the rod didn't need to come off of it, perhaps the crank pin and needle bearings will outlast the rest of the engine. For peace of mind did you ever get any info from the importer about how to replace the crank pin if needed?

coralcape

My Feedback: (4)

To be honest, I never called Topdawg direct. Can't blame them if they don't know about it. My lazy. red

captinjohn

coralcape, I see you are in Florida. We just got back to Mich....went to a my Grandson,s wedding at Disney World ! It sre was nice weather...I wanted to fly here in Mich today...but it looks like a cold all day rain storm. Wish I was back in Florida !

coralcape

My Feedback: (4)

Yep, Capt'n. Been here since '68, year round. I retired 16 years ago and made the mistake of buying a complete R/C set at a garage sale ) Been back into the hobby now for 9 yrs. Keep smiling, it confuses 'em. red

captinjohn

What is new in the Mintor engine circle of owners?

dpw

My Feedback: (1)

This is just a little FYI. I have a Mintor 22 that I bought a year ago and flew on a RedwingRC profile. By the end of the summer the engine started having some issues. It would run part of a flight and then just quit, eventually it wouldn't start and continue to run. In the fall, I sent the engine to Top Dawg for a checkup and service and they returned it saying that it started & ran great. I mounted the engine and found it still wouldn't run for me. It would fire (pop) but not continue to run.

A 10 hour drive to Toledo and back gave me a chance to think about why the engine would run for TopDawg but not for me and the answer had to be the ignition battery. When I got home, I replaced the 4 cell NiCd pack measuring 5.1 volts with a 5 cell pack and the engine immediately became friendly again The Mintor 22 starts, runs and transitions good, and I'm now a happy customer again.

Since the ignition unit says 4.8 to 8.4 volts, I just had not considered the possibility that 5.1 volts was not enough to make it run.

TimBle

Good on you for figuring out the problem rationally and relating your experience. Most would have come on here and slammed the engine as being at fault and TDA as not being above board.

captinjohn

You can find more data yet on the F* G* I*A*N*T*S SITE................

captinjohn

That is good to know. So far my battery pack seems to work very good. The power in the pack seems too last a very long time. Capt,n

captinjohn

Just a notice, you can send your Mintor enginein and get it updated.

roadhawgy

send it to who?

captinjohn

Go to the website where you bought it for details.

Cincinnati Joe

Anyone with back pain should invest 100 bucks in an inversion table. You lay on it, and push yourself around till you're hanging from your ankles upside down. I've had TWO back surgeries (triple fusion L4,L5,S1 1st one failed. 2nd was better). Now have LOST 3 discs (calcified, crushed and absorbed!). Hang for as long as you can handle it right before bed, then hit the bed quickly. It opens up/depressurizes your disc areas and allows fluids to flow back in. I got mine 2 weeks ago, and I can already feel a small difference - I can stand up straight!

the pope

I feel your pain there Joe . I have 3 buggered discs in the back and 1 in the neck . The misses who has to have every gadget under the sun got one of those . I tried it and could barely walk for a week afterwords. Sits in the junk shed now and thats where its staying . Im so glad it works for you though and as you probably know as well as anyone every injury is different . If it wasntnt for morphine I couldnt get out of bed . That stuff has been my life saver . I seriously doubt I would be still here if it wasnt for that stuff . Cheers the pope