HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part IV
08-02-2013, 08:32 AM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part IV
ORIGINAL: ahamay
Sorry, rcu has taken the edit funtion off.. meant to put this in the previous post.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pq4MefprNk[/youtube]
Sorry, rcu has taken the edit funtion off.. meant to put this in the previous post.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pq4MefprNk[/youtube]
Ummm... *YAWN*
The FRSky Taranis was released months ago with everything this has to offer, plus 16 channels, Telemetry RX AND LiPo Power AND a spiffy aluminum case and about half the price. Oh yeah; PLUS an RFModule bay so you can control pretty much ANYTHING with it. Even the Devo with Deviation doesn't have that.
We've had all this (Where do you think they got the idea from?) with openRX and er9x for years.
Like I said; just like MicroSoft - always playing catch-up, always trying to own the market after-the-fact.
mnem
Moo. Alternately, grrr.
08-02-2013, 09:16 AM
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RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part IV
ORIGINAL: Ddaddy
What the h3II are ya'll soldering! Water pipe?
I had the highest non-instructor level certified NEC for soldering during the 80's when I was in the Navy working in a PME lab (QA for both too). Hey! I have an ego too
Definitelty lead solder but eutectics 63/37 is best. 60/40 is cheaper but it has a plastic state which can cause you to have more poor solder joints. Bottom line, 63/37 is more forgiving and better.
And 670 degrees is best (and ability to keep it there) as that's the sweet spot between melting time and lead evaporation (which changes the alloy ratio and thus the solidification process which leads to the quality of the joint).
Now I could go on for the whole 40 hour course but even the above is mostly excessive to what we do.
What isn't is cleanliness! Having clean copper/leads/wires allows better/quicker energy transfer thus making a better solder joint because it requires less heat thus doing less damage to boards and less lead evaporation thus best alloy ratio for best solder joint.
So remove that surface oxidation and you'll have a wetting action that gives you a quick and great solder joint. <<<
What the h3II are ya'll soldering! Water pipe?
I had the highest non-instructor level certified NEC for soldering during the 80's when I was in the Navy working in a PME lab (QA for both too). Hey! I have an ego too
Definitelty lead solder but eutectics 63/37 is best. 60/40 is cheaper but it has a plastic state which can cause you to have more poor solder joints. Bottom line, 63/37 is more forgiving and better.
And 670 degrees is best (and ability to keep it there) as that's the sweet spot between melting time and lead evaporation (which changes the alloy ratio and thus the solidification process which leads to the quality of the joint).
Now I could go on for the whole 40 hour course but even the above is mostly excessive to what we do.
What isn't is cleanliness! Having clean copper/leads/wires allows better/quicker energy transfer thus making a better solder joint because it requires less heat thus doing less damage to boards and less lead evaporation thus best alloy ratio for best solder joint.
So remove that surface oxidation and you'll have a wetting action that gives you a quick and great solder joint. <<<
The mass of a 12 ga stranded wire and a 5" dia copper plate are the reason I was suggesting the big TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED iron; it makes your life a LOTeasier.
As with all things worth doing, prep time is the time best spent. I've got my certs too; and the one thing I'm sure we will both agree on is that to get the best joint without damaging the board, you need to apply adequate QUANTITYof heat (not INTENSITY), get the joint made, and get out. For working with wires, I prefer the 60/40 because you can work it properly at 600°, which GREATLY decreases the likelihood of damaging the insulation on non-silicone wires and greatly decreases the amount of "wicking" up the strands inside the insulation, resulting in a joined wire that remains flexible much closer to the solder point.
Brian (And anyone else who might benefit from 3 decades of soldering experience) -
The most important thing you can do is tin your wires properly BEFOREmaking the joint. Yeah, you can spend the time and mess of separate flux; but if you use a good rosin-core solder, tin the wire then drag the excess solder off with your iron, that "waste" solder carries away with it most of the crud that the rosin etches off the wires. IMHO, this process is simpler and more effective MOSTof the time.
After the wires are tinned, tin the pad or lug, unless you're doing a through-hole solder joint (obviously).
Quickly now wipe the iron tip, a little fresh solder on your iron tip ( as you do it, you'll find that more solder adds heated mass which makes the joint easier; the trick is finding the balance between that and too much which makes for a blobby solder joint) touch it to the work and bam; good solder joint every time and no PC board damage. The preheating that tinning the pad (the reason for moving quickly) does for you helps this process be as painless as possible. But you DOhave to have a steady hand with the subject materials, and a bit of tolerance for the heat. Like DD says; the joint will remain fluid longer, so you have to hold your material perfectly still longer. Even when it starts to hurt.
Oh, and I positively LOATHE having to do repairs after lead-free solder. The altered alloy of the joint is not optimal, to say the least; unless you solder, wick it clean, solder again so you get a joint that's mostly the new solder you're working with. I'm disinclined to waste my time that way. I know the solder joint is good nonetheless, but it annoys me that my beautiful solder joints all look bad the instant they cool.
mnem
*tsssssst*
08-06-2013, 12:17 PM
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Booo!
Looks like moist of our junk survived the changeover. I'm here.
Other members, sound off so we know where to toss the life preservers...
mnem
Hells bells, we made it!
Looks like moist of our junk survived the changeover. I'm here.
Other members, sound off so we know where to toss the life preservers...
mnem
Hells bells, we made it!
08-06-2013, 12:40 PM
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Managed to get in here with Internet explorer, but not chrome. Not sure what the go is with that. I think they still have some issues to sort out. If I refresh the page it logs me out.. lol
Last edited by ahamay; 08-06-2013 at 12:50 PM.
08-06-2013, 05:41 PM
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Yeppers looks like we made it!
Been busy "vacationing" with wifey so not much time to play with toyz!
Got the quad assembled that is the arms attached to the hub.
This was a BIG phreakin' deal b/c the hex screws are not 2.0 but 2.25. I was able to buy some German "ball" hex screw drivers and after drilling out the holes so the "collard" screws wouldn't resist was able to Loctite the screws in without stripping the heads. What a cluster *****!
Soon I will program my Q Brain esc then set up my KK2 board. Who knows when I will have the time!
Took my MCP X out for the 1st time in weeks and the tail is dead. Gonna unwrap the line in it's entirety and separate the two and see if the very thin coating came off.
I hope all is well in your worlds!!!
b
08-06-2013, 10:55 PM
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Ummm... those arms are all supposed to assemble to the plate with machine screws; there are brass threaded inserts molded into them that SHOULD all be 3mm/0.5mm pitch with a 2.5mm socket. If they gave you self-tapping screws, they gave you the wrong ones. If they're machine screws, they shouldn't need to be relieved to go in; they should go in with fingers. Try a 3mm/0.5mm pitch screw in one of your spare arms; if I remembered the size right, you should just need to hit your LHS or that discount fastener store to get the right ones.
#4-40 & #5-40 machine screws normally use a 3/32" socket head which is like 2.38mm; but are right either side of a 2mm shaft. BUT... #6-32 & #6-40 SOMETIMES also come with a 3/32" socket head; & they are right around 2.8mm shaft, & would probably bind on a 3mm/0.5mm pitch screw hole.
Hope that helps!
mnem
zzzZZZzzzZZZzzz....
#4-40 & #5-40 machine screws normally use a 3/32" socket head which is like 2.38mm; but are right either side of a 2mm shaft. BUT... #6-32 & #6-40 SOMETIMES also come with a 3/32" socket head; & they are right around 2.8mm shaft, & would probably bind on a 3mm/0.5mm pitch screw hole.
Hope that helps!
mnem
zzzZZZzzzZZZzzz....
08-07-2013, 02:13 AM
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Ummm... those arms are all supposed to assemble to the plate with machine screws; there are brass threaded inserts molded into them that SHOULD all be 3mm/0.5mm pitch with a 2.5mm socket. If they gave you self-tapping screws, they gave you the wrong ones. If they're machine screws, they shouldn't need to be relieved to go in; they should go in with fingers. Try a 3mm/0.5mm pitch screw in one of your spare arms; if I remembered the size right, you should just need to hit your LHS or that discount fastener store to get the right ones.
#4-40 & #5-40 machine screws normally use a 3/32" socket head which is like 2.38mm; but are right either side of a 2mm shaft. BUT... #6-32 & #6-40 SOMETIMES also come with a 3/32" socket head; & they are right around 2.8mm shaft, & would probably bind on a 3mm/0.5mm pitch screw hole.
Hope that helps!
mnem
zzzZZZzzzZZZzzz....
#4-40 & #5-40 machine screws normally use a 3/32" socket head which is like 2.38mm; but are right either side of a 2mm shaft. BUT... #6-32 & #6-40 SOMETIMES also come with a 3/32" socket head; & they are right around 2.8mm shaft, & would probably bind on a 3mm/0.5mm pitch screw hole.
Hope that helps!
mnem
zzzZZZzzzZZZzzz....
Yep, they are machine screws that go into threads.
The Hex hole is the wrong phrakin' size!
B@satards!
It can be summed up below with the post on reviews of the product by this guy below:
"What happened to the older version of this that used 2MM screws? This new version looks almost the same, but uses 1.5MM screws with shoulders. The problem i'm having is that the screws have a 2.3MM socket, and nobody makes a 2.3MM allen wrench. There's 2.0 which seems to fit, but slips. There's 2.5, which doesn't fit. I tried grinding a 2.5MM down to 2.3MM, it worked just barely, but since I did it by hand it was not very good. I want replacement arms for the old version. "
I got a good work around though. Thank god for thread lock......now when I have to remove it make be another thing!
Off to "work"!
b
PS. What's a Trackback?
08-07-2013, 02:41 AM
#508
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.... this forum is really rooted. The only way I can get to post instead of going round and round logging in all the time is to choose the mobile site version and refresh the page about 20 times until it somehow thinks i'm logged in.
I remember winging about how bad the old forum was at times, but at this point... bring back the old forum ... PLEASE !!!
I remember winging about how bad the old forum was at times, but at this point... bring back the old forum ... PLEASE !!!
08-07-2013, 03:06 AM
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Glad you made it through the void!
Yep, they are machine screws that go into threads.
The Hex hole is the wrong phrakin' size!
B@satards!
It can be summed up below with the post on reviews of the product by this guy below:
"What happened to the older version of this that used 2MM screws? This new version looks almost the same, but uses 1.5MM screws with shoulders. The problem i'm having is that the screws have a 2.3MM socket, and nobody makes a 2.3MM allen wrench. There's 2.0 which seems to fit, but slips. There's 2.5, which doesn't fit. I tried grinding a 2.5MM down to 2.3MM, it worked just barely, but since I did it by hand it was not very good. I want replacement arms for the old version. "
I got a good work around though. Thank god for thread lock......now when I have to remove it make be another thing!
Off to "work"!
b
PS. What's a Trackback?
Yep, they are machine screws that go into threads.
The Hex hole is the wrong phrakin' size!
B@satards!
It can be summed up below with the post on reviews of the product by this guy below:
"What happened to the older version of this that used 2MM screws? This new version looks almost the same, but uses 1.5MM screws with shoulders. The problem i'm having is that the screws have a 2.3MM socket, and nobody makes a 2.3MM allen wrench. There's 2.0 which seems to fit, but slips. There's 2.5, which doesn't fit. I tried grinding a 2.5MM down to 2.3MM, it worked just barely, but since I did it by hand it was not very good. I want replacement arms for the old version. "
I got a good work around though. Thank god for thread lock......now when I have to remove it make be another thing!
Off to "work"!
b
PS. What's a Trackback?
Yeppers,
I have to go to "forums", then subscriptions then here.
I suspect that over time these many annoyances will fall by the way side?
b
08-07-2013, 06:13 AM
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B -
Did you try a 3/32" allen wrench? That is, as your other poster mentions, right about 2.3mm. If it fits, then you probably have #6-32 or #6-40 pitch screws and need to replace them with 3mm-0.5mm pitch screws. This was the point I was trying to make this morning; I guess the 2AM fog made that unclear.
Trust me; Locktite & the wrong pitch screws will shake apart under load; I know this from years of "making it fit" on motorcycles. Almost all our "US Standard" fasteners are made in China nowadays; I see no reason not to believe some parts wholesaler shipped the wrong stuff by accident.
As for the Forum issues - I'm using FireFlump 22.0 and Windoze 7/64 - not a lick of trouble. Of course, we'll see how long that holds out, since I have about 70 updates queued up and planning to install in hopes of getting my favorite HP laser printer to work over the network.
Pray for me; I'm actually counting on Windows Restore to save me if the updates blow up...
mnem
*Imploding*
Did you try a 3/32" allen wrench? That is, as your other poster mentions, right about 2.3mm. If it fits, then you probably have #6-32 or #6-40 pitch screws and need to replace them with 3mm-0.5mm pitch screws. This was the point I was trying to make this morning; I guess the 2AM fog made that unclear.
Trust me; Locktite & the wrong pitch screws will shake apart under load; I know this from years of "making it fit" on motorcycles.
Almost all our "US Standard" fasteners are made in China nowadays; I see no reason not to believe some parts wholesaler shipped the wrong stuff by accident.As for the Forum issues - I'm using FireFlump 22.0 and Windoze 7/64 - not a lick of trouble. Of course, we'll see how long that holds out, since I have about 70 updates queued up and planning to install in hopes of getting my favorite HP laser printer to work over the network.
Pray for me; I'm actually counting on Windows Restore to save me if the updates blow up...
mnem
*Imploding*
Last edited by mnemennth; 08-07-2013 at 06:17 AM. Reason: pfffft
08-07-2013, 03:25 PM
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B -
Did you try a 3/32" allen wrench? That is, as your other poster mentions, right about 2.3mm. If it fits, then you probably have #6-32 or #6-40 pitch screws and need to replace them with 3mm-0.5mm pitch screws. This was the point I was trying to make this morning; I guess the 2AM fog made that unclear.
Yeppers, I literally tried each and every forkin' allen/hex/torx wrench I have and I have a lot! So being a cop from WAAAAAAY back I was taught to use both "inductive" and "deductive reasoning. Therefore either it's somehow ME or these pricx from Hobby King send me some OBSCURE hex nuts as they have wanted to do with many of my previous builds with the HK450. There is NO reason to generate these obscure bolt of odd sizes. They DON'T sell a special screw driver and I suspect they don't sit around and laugh at their deviousness. I thinking they are some krazy 2nds sitting around some place and they literally bought the cheapest vendor.
Trust me; Locktite & the wrong pitch screws will shake apart under load; I know this from years of "making it fit" on motorcycles. Almost all our "US Standard" fasteners are made in China nowadays; I see no reason not to believe some parts wholesaler shipped the wrong stuff by accident.
I agree. What I did was drill out the frame a smidge and this allowed me to work the pitch screw down snugly. Not as tight as I would like but where the fork does one by the proper screw? "Pitch scews are us"?
As for the Forum issues - I'm using FireFlump 22.0 and Windoze 7/64 - not a lick of trouble. Of course, we'll see how long that holds out, since I have about 70 updates queued up and planning to install in hopes of getting my favorite HP laser printer to work over the network.
The forums are settling down here and starting to work. I need to change my tag line and I gotta figure out how to do it.
Pray for me; I'm actually counting on Windows Restore to save me if the updates blow up...
So's I wunder how that little Windowz issue worked out for you?
mnem
*Imploding*
Did you try a 3/32" allen wrench? That is, as your other poster mentions, right about 2.3mm. If it fits, then you probably have #6-32 or #6-40 pitch screws and need to replace them with 3mm-0.5mm pitch screws. This was the point I was trying to make this morning; I guess the 2AM fog made that unclear.
Yeppers, I literally tried each and every forkin' allen/hex/torx wrench I have and I have a lot! So being a cop from WAAAAAAY back I was taught to use both "inductive" and "deductive reasoning. Therefore either it's somehow ME or these pricx from Hobby King send me some OBSCURE hex nuts as they have wanted to do with many of my previous builds with the HK450. There is NO reason to generate these obscure bolt of odd sizes. They DON'T sell a special screw driver and I suspect they don't sit around and laugh at their deviousness. I thinking they are some krazy 2nds sitting around some place and they literally bought the cheapest vendor.
Trust me; Locktite & the wrong pitch screws will shake apart under load; I know this from years of "making it fit" on motorcycles.
Almost all our "US Standard" fasteners are made in China nowadays; I see no reason not to believe some parts wholesaler shipped the wrong stuff by accident.I agree. What I did was drill out the frame a smidge and this allowed me to work the pitch screw down snugly. Not as tight as I would like but where the fork does one by the proper screw? "Pitch scews are us"?
As for the Forum issues - I'm using FireFlump 22.0 and Windoze 7/64 - not a lick of trouble. Of course, we'll see how long that holds out, since I have about 70 updates queued up and planning to install in hopes of getting my favorite HP laser printer to work over the network.
The forums are settling down here and starting to work. I need to change my tag line and I gotta figure out how to do it.
Pray for me; I'm actually counting on Windows Restore to save me if the updates blow up...
So's I wunder how that little Windowz issue worked out for you?
mnem
*Imploding*
Well pen pals I had a nice afternoon.
I diagnosed my MCP X tail issue. Turned out to be the SR120 "brushed" tail. When I bought the kit I thought it was brushless. DOH!
Ordered a new one for 12 bux and I'll be up and runnin'!
Then I went into the quad. I (and Jonesy on PM) have been discussing the "Q-Brain". I got my card and all the defaults were good except for the timing which I changed to "high".
I attached my motors to the motor mounts and now I'm drilling holes in the frame to accommodate same.
I got the Tx bound to the Rx and soon will hook up the "Q-Brain" to the FC board and the Tx then setup the ESC's.
At that time I have to tune the FC board.
Lets see what tomorrow brings!
All the best!
b
08-07-2013, 05:37 PM
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Now that the forum is not logging me out every time I try and post I'll try this again.
Trackback is to allow linking to individual posts.... in forum terms. It's also used for SEO to notify other sites you have linked to in your content in the hope they will link you back. This linking boost your rank in search engines and can be 100 times more complicated to understand than trying to setup an fbl gyro for the first time.
Because all the urls to threads are different in the new forum it's going to take Google a while to reindex RCU so you get working search result links in a google search for anything from this site.
Something else to note also with this new forum is the Email notifications for new posts are different. The old one sent you an email every time there was a post (if you set that option), but this forum will only send you a notification for the first post after your last visit. The cookie will not reset until you visit the forum again. The new post notification does however have the first part of the newpost included as text which is handy.
Hopefully they will also enable the tapatalk plug for this forum as it's great for navigating on mobile devices.
Trackback is to allow linking to individual posts.... in forum terms. It's also used for SEO to notify other sites you have linked to in your content in the hope they will link you back. This linking boost your rank in search engines and can be 100 times more complicated to understand than trying to setup an fbl gyro for the first time.
Because all the urls to threads are different in the new forum it's going to take Google a while to reindex RCU so you get working search result links in a google search for anything from this site.
Something else to note also with this new forum is the Email notifications for new posts are different. The old one sent you an email every time there was a post (if you set that option), but this forum will only send you a notification for the first post after your last visit. The cookie will not reset until you visit the forum again. The new post notification does however have the first part of the newpost included as text which is handy.
Hopefully they will also enable the tapatalk plug for this forum as it's great for navigating on mobile devices.
08-07-2013, 06:01 PM
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08-07-2013, 06:02 PM
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08-07-2013, 09:29 PM
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I survived the Windoze update; now I have working drivers for my LaserJet 1022.
However; something in the update broke my FireFlump .pdf content type; I have FF set to ask me what to do with a .pdf (Open or Save) but since the update it automatically tries to save & doesn't give me the option anymore. I think this was a "Security Upgrade" due to the Adobe executable content exploit, but I don't WANT to be protected from .pdf files; I use dozens of them a day and NEVER want to save that crap. This is really a PITA, and if it cannot be turned off, I may nuke the update until I can find a workaround.
mnem
Hell no, thank you.
However; something in the update broke my FireFlump .pdf content type; I have FF set to ask me what to do with a .pdf (Open or Save) but since the update it automatically tries to save & doesn't give me the option anymore. I think this was a "Security Upgrade" due to the Adobe executable content exploit, but I don't WANT to be protected from .pdf files; I use dozens of them a day and NEVER want to save that crap. This is really a PITA, and if it cannot be turned off, I may nuke the update until I can find a workaround.
mnem
Hell no, thank you.
08-07-2013, 09:59 PM
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I survived the Windoze update; now I have working drivers for my LaserJet 1022.
However; something in the update broke my FireFlump .pdf content type; I have FF set to ask me what to do with a .pdf (Open or Save) but since the update it automatically tries to save & doesn't give me the option anymore. I think this was a "Security Upgrade" due to the Adobe executable content exploit, but I don't WANT to be protected from .pdf files; I use dozens of them a day and NEVER want to save that crap. This is really a PITA, and if it cannot be turned off, I may nuke the update until I can find a workaround.
mnem
Hell no, thank you.
However; something in the update broke my FireFlump .pdf content type; I have FF set to ask me what to do with a .pdf (Open or Save) but since the update it automatically tries to save & doesn't give me the option anymore. I think this was a "Security Upgrade" due to the Adobe executable content exploit, but I don't WANT to be protected from .pdf files; I use dozens of them a day and NEVER want to save that crap. This is really a PITA, and if it cannot be turned off, I may nuke the update until I can find a workaround.
mnem
Hell no, thank you.
I used to use Firefox all the time, but switched to chrome a while ago. I'm a tab junkie and have lots of sites all open at once. Chrome starts a new instance of itself for each tab, so if one craps out it just closes that instance and it doesn't effect the others. Your whole browser will crash if this happens with firefox. That used to annoy me.
Funny, I just threw a couple of those 1022 printers out. I despise any printer where the toner cartridge costs more than the printer to buy
08-08-2013, 11:50 AM
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Ummm... NO. I have ADOBE; a full, licensed copy. It is set as my preferred .pdf content app, and FireFox is set to ASK how I want to handle this type of content every time and has been literally for YEARS. Like I said, I use it everyday. This all worked the way it was supposed to before I updated Windoze.
As for the 1022s; cheap toner is why I keep 'em. I get new compatible (not refurb) cartridges 2/$20 or 3/$30 off Amazon with free shipping. Been using them for years. You do have Amazon in OZ, doncha?
I agree. What I did was drill out the frame a smidge and this allowed me to work the pitch screw down snugly. Not as tight as I would like but where the fork does one by the proper screw? "Pitch scews are us"?
The term "pitch" means "how many threads per inch" to us benighted SAE users here in the States, and "how many mm from one thread to the next" in civilized regions of the world. 
This means that what I was describing is a 3mm diameter screw with 0.5mm pitch (or threads that are cut 0.5mm apart).
Ask and ye shall receive:
http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/category/R1.html
mnem
ROOF PIZZA!
As for the 1022s; cheap toner is why I keep 'em. I get new compatible (not refurb) cartridges 2/$20 or 3/$30 off Amazon with free shipping. Been using them for years. You do have Amazon in OZ, doncha?
Originally Posted by mnemennth
Trust me; Locktite & the wrong pitch screws will shake apart under load; I know this from years of "making it fit" on motorcycles. Almost all our "US Standard" fasteners are made in China nowadays; I see no reason not to believe some parts wholesaler shipped the wrong stuff by accident.
Almost all our "US Standard" fasteners are made in China nowadays; I see no reason not to believe some parts wholesaler shipped the wrong stuff by accident. This means that what I was describing is a 3mm diameter screw with 0.5mm pitch (or threads that are cut 0.5mm apart). Ask and ye shall receive:
http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/category/R1.html
mnem
ROOF PIZZA!
Last edited by mnemennth; 08-08-2013 at 12:08 PM. Reason: SCREW-ED
08-08-2013, 03:37 PM
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I was just fixin' to tell that story, Hugh.
Well, as we say in the south.... Ya'll ain't gonna believe this *****.
I had purchased a 550 size tail kit for my Gaui 425, and found some nice blades on FeeBay. It took me over a month to finally get all the parts together to build the FrankenHeli.
She flew VERY well on the maiden, and I held back and just flew normal circuits with it. Not near as risky as Brian flies his 500, but nice smooth gentle turns with a little bit of FFF.
This thing was more stable than any other heli I have flown, and I immediately fell in LOVE.
The second flight went well just a few days later, and I did execute a couple of loops, and flips. She recovered nicely, and had plenty of power to boot. Upon landing, I hit the throttle hold and was able to pitch pump for about 5 feet, and still land with plenty of rotational speed left. LOTS OF MASS.
On Sunday, I met Hugh at the new flying field, and after quite a bit of plank flying, BSing, and a slight mishap with the Hangar 9 Spitfire, I decided to show Hugh how well the Gaui was flying. The first battery was a 5s that I had been flying exclusively on this bird. After a very nice uneventful flight, I decided to see how my new 6s 3300mAh pack would work. I had flown other 500s on this size pack, and was sure that the head speed wouldn't be too much.
She spooled up to a very high head speed (maybe 3000 RPM?) but I was sure it would be ok. She sure did sing nicely. At about 5 feet AGL the plastic blade grip relinquished itself to the centrifugal forces, and separated from the bearing boss just before the grip bolt. The resultant explosion of Gaui 425 Basic helicopter components sent an echo back to us from the trees that are about 300 feet from the flight line. I did see where the loosed blade went sailing, and recovered it quickly. The rest of the helicopter pieces were dispersed about the runway in about a 50 feet diameter. The Align gyro was missing its case, and the two boards were twisted almost 180 degrees from each other.
The mainshaft had been ripped from the frame, bearings and all, and the tail boom looked like a hairpin.
I did collect replacement prices, and I can rebuild this thing for around $58USD, but basically all I have is some of the electronics and the tail box.
Hugh gave me a frame that he acquired at a swap meet, and I may try to build it from what is left.
I am currently working on the 425 FBL to get it flying right again. It has been giving me fits for about a month now, and I think I have found a bad main shaft bearing.
I will keep you guys informed.
B
ps, sorry, we didn't get any video, but it sure was cool.
Well, as we say in the south.... Ya'll ain't gonna believe this *****.
I had purchased a 550 size tail kit for my Gaui 425, and found some nice blades on FeeBay. It took me over a month to finally get all the parts together to build the FrankenHeli.
She flew VERY well on the maiden, and I held back and just flew normal circuits with it. Not near as risky as Brian flies his 500, but nice smooth gentle turns with a little bit of FFF.
This thing was more stable than any other heli I have flown, and I immediately fell in LOVE.
The second flight went well just a few days later, and I did execute a couple of loops, and flips. She recovered nicely, and had plenty of power to boot. Upon landing, I hit the throttle hold and was able to pitch pump for about 5 feet, and still land with plenty of rotational speed left. LOTS OF MASS.
On Sunday, I met Hugh at the new flying field, and after quite a bit of plank flying, BSing, and a slight mishap with the Hangar 9 Spitfire, I decided to show Hugh how well the Gaui was flying. The first battery was a 5s that I had been flying exclusively on this bird. After a very nice uneventful flight, I decided to see how my new 6s 3300mAh pack would work. I had flown other 500s on this size pack, and was sure that the head speed wouldn't be too much.
She spooled up to a very high head speed (maybe 3000 RPM?) but I was sure it would be ok. She sure did sing nicely. At about 5 feet AGL the plastic blade grip relinquished itself to the centrifugal forces, and separated from the bearing boss just before the grip bolt. The resultant explosion of Gaui 425 Basic helicopter components sent an echo back to us from the trees that are about 300 feet from the flight line. I did see where the loosed blade went sailing, and recovered it quickly. The rest of the helicopter pieces were dispersed about the runway in about a 50 feet diameter. The Align gyro was missing its case, and the two boards were twisted almost 180 degrees from each other.
The mainshaft had been ripped from the frame, bearings and all, and the tail boom looked like a hairpin.
I did collect replacement prices, and I can rebuild this thing for around $58USD, but basically all I have is some of the electronics and the tail box.
Hugh gave me a frame that he acquired at a swap meet, and I may try to build it from what is left.
I am currently working on the 425 FBL to get it flying right again. It has been giving me fits for about a month now, and I think I have found a bad main shaft bearing.
I will keep you guys informed.
B
ps, sorry, we didn't get any video, but it sure was cool.
08-08-2013, 04:39 PM
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Any one seen a clay pigion hit by a 12 gage? Yep that's what it looked like sucked not having a camera! I did expect radio active fall out from the mushroom cloud! Any who Bryan will rebuild Hugh BTY This sucks having to log out and log in to post