FlyBlueSkies

My Feedback: (2)

Deadeye,

I've started to build this plane now. But I have a question. The main spar is 36" long (72" total), but the wing panel is only 35 3/4". That means, 1/4" of the spar hangs outside the wing....

Is this right?

BTW, I really like your plans! I know it took a lot of work to create them.

Thanks again,

FlyBlueSkies

Deadeye

Yeah, you are right, but I made it 1/4" longer to compensate for the dihedral angle cut. Once you have the dihedral the way you want it, wap off the extra sticking out the end. Thanks for bumping this thread back up! I thought it was going the way of the dinosaur.

Askalon

My Feedback: (1)

great instructions along with great pics. I did notice that you mentioned througout that if you had the plans for the 4*60 it would help out. I called sig and found out that the plans cost $10.50 for the 60 and $6 (and change) for the 4*40. Shipping was a cheap $3. Tax (as I live in Iowa) made them come out to around $14 for me. I like the indestructableness of the coro, so I will go with the cor-star 60 (or may scale down to the 40 as I already have a 46 sized engine to use).

Thanks for keeping the hobby alive by donating your plans to all of us.

MJFinegan

My Feedback: (2)

Would it be practical to stiffen the fuse with an internal doubler of coro with the flutes oriented 90 degrees to the outer skin? Would this cut any weight or would it be heavier? I'm new to SPAD but I like the concept of a cheap durable flier. Where todays replacement parts are yesterdays beer sign from the local Kwikee-Mart.

Mike

rtn9105

My Feedback: (35)

Any word on a set of printable plans?

Deadeye

Sounds like a good experiment. The only problem I see, is if you are using the coro instead of the wooden insides, you won't have anything to glue wing block, LG block and firewall to.

Deadeye

Printable plans? Ala spadtothebone? No. I'm so burned out on HTML right now, due to a huge website I've been working on for a client, that it's the last thing I want to do in my spare time. Besides, my computer drawings suck. If I had the talent/experience of Tattoo and Kraut, maybe I would. But there aren't any plans for printable plans right now. Sorry.

Tattoo

Just right click on all of Deadeye's awesome pictures and save them to your computer and then print them out! I've been following this thread for a long time, and I can't thank Deadeye enough for all the time and effort he has put into this project. I think that once you've saved and put the whole threads worth into one package...you'll have a great set of plans! [8D]

cainebean

I love this freakin plane. I still have my naked 4 star 40 sitting there. This is going to be my next build. Thanks again for the details. Did you cover it with anything? On most of the spads I have, I cover them with Vinyl sign material and was curious if you did that with the purple on.

cainebean

Deadeye

My coro was purple from the factory. The yellow you see is vinyl. I never had good luck with paint sticking, plus it adds a bunch of weight.

koopster

What an awesome build. I am currently converting a b@ls* plan, and I think I will incorporate many of your building ideas and techniques. Thank you for sharing. It looks like a plane that is strong enough to survive even my landings

koopster

photoniq

Hi Folks -

Please excuse me if this is a dumb questions but I am newbie I hope to solo in the not too distant future. I had been considering the 4star as my second plane, based on advice in the beginners forum. Would this version of the 4star be suitable for a relatively new pilot? I have crap building skills (my trainer is ARTF) and get no joy from building either. Would this be easier to build than the balsa kit one?

Hope you can help -
photoniq.

p.s. is there a version of this that i can fit my OS46fx in to? I don't want to have to buy a new engine.

Deadeye

If this is your first time building with coro, you might be better off with a balsa kit. Once a guy gets the hang of building with coro, it is much easier to build than a balsa one. But there is a level of experience in building a succesful coro machine. I 'threw' an LT-40 copy together last week. Started on Monday evening, and worked on it for 2 or 3 hours a day the rest of the week. I will maiden her Wednesday. I named her 'Tourmaudo', and will be starting a thread showcasing her as soon as I get her trimmed in vinyl.

If you decide to tackle it, and you want it scaled down to a 40-46 size, find a buddy wiith a 4* 40, and use it for the templates and measurements. It will assemble just like the Cor-Star 60.

carrellh

The Four Star 40 and 60 are available as ARFs; possibly an alternative since you stated you do not enjoy building. I built a balsa trainer kit and flew it for the first time yesterday.

spadflyer

Sweat plane, I think I'm going to try and build one but first i'd like to know if there were any problems with building it and if so what were they. How does it fly. I'v only been flying for two years know, I fly a corostang which was clocked at about 110 km/hr and I fly a BOHOR, do you think I would be able to fly it good.

Thanx Brandon

Deadeye

I copied this from my summary, above:

If you follow my instructions, there will be no problems. I built one while I was doing this thread, so as to warn of pitfalls as they arose. Good luck, and make sure to post pictures and a flight report!

spadflyer

Do you think that a 20cc gasser weed eater motor would work good for this plane?

Brandon

Deadeye

If it is light enough, the airframe will handle it. By my calculations, 20ccs is like 1.2 cubic inches. My Saito 100 is a 1.0 cubic inch, and can hover it.

spadflyer

Well i'll try to lighten it up as much as possible and give it a try. I'll let you know if it works or not.

Deadeye

I mean the engine. The engine has to be light enough, or you will have to add tail weight, or slide the wing forward from where I show it on my plans.

spadflyer

i mean the engine you can cut the fines down guite a ways and take off things that aren't needed.
Brandon

Fliptunes

Deadeye thanks for posting all this info I am going to have to try to build one of these. 2 questions though. Is there any special set up for useing that Elmers probond glue? And can you explain the woodpeckering a little more. I am kinda new. Thanks

Deadeye

Hi, Fliptunes. The only things to keep in mind with poly glue and woodpeckering, is:

1) Woodpecker the mating surfaces of coro to coro, or coro to wood. The idea is to poke lots of holes into the surfaces. The poly glue seeps into the holes, and as it dries, it expands. This provides thousands of 'rivets'. The dried poly glue cannot pull through the small holes, creating an incredibly strong joint.

2) Use LOTS of water with the poly glue. I usually mist wood parts 5 minutes before applying glue. I also mist the bare, woodpeckered coroplast before I apply glue. After all is misted, I apply glue, wait 10 minutes, mist some more, press the pieces together, pull apart, mist again, and clamp into place for 3 or 4 hours. This gives maximum expansion, which is especially good for the trailing edges of wings.

I have been surprised how well poly glue even sticks to NON woodpeckered coroplast. But I would never trust a critical joint without woodpeckering first.

Fliptunes

ok that sounds good. What tool do you use to woodpecker? Any drill? what bit size then? Thanks

Askalon

My Feedback: (1)

Still a work in progress, but soon i should have a set of downloadable plans. it won't be pretty as it it will be exact copy and paste from this thread with the pics exatly as they set. I tried to make each page go together but I may have missed on a few. I expect to have the link up wednesday.