DragonLines

My Feedback: (13)

My plane flew extremely well at 116mm cg. I used Tru Turn spinners, 3 blade. I think they were P-51 style I'll have to go back and check. Even with the spinners and four strokes I needed over a pound of lead. Still it wasn't bad, I think it was 13lbs 7 ozs. Hope to make the minor repairs in a day or so and try again.

cat5752

My Feedback: (1)

I just found this thread. I got my Mossie from Jet Hobbies today and I have to tell you, their service is fantastic. I ordered it Monday, and I live in Oregon. 40$ s&h and about 9$ currency conversion gives me a total of 329$. I am undecided as far as what engines to put in it. I was thinking OS .46 AXs. As this will be a winter project, I will keep reading all of your posts. My flying skill is not up to this plane yet anyway. Looking at my manual, I can see where they recommend 115-120mm from leading edge, outboard of engine nacelle. I wonder if this is a mis-drawn picture, and it should be that measurement, but taken from leading edge, next to fuse? Also, has anyone sucessfully taken any pictures or video with their's yet? I am very interested in building the recon version of it. I have an excellent book about Mosquitos that I found in the local book store. I think it is called Mosquito, the wooden wonder. I didn't realize that the DH Tiger Moth and this plane were only two years apart as far as their conception. Who would have thought it? Anyway, keep the posts coming, and thanks for all of the good info.

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

I calculated the CG, and used 116mm at the root. It flew good there. Get ready to add quite a bit of weight though. Whatever you do, don't balance it as shown in the plans and fly it. It will be way tail heavy. I fly mine with 46 AX's, and it performs well. It is a heavy plane, so you will need some warbird experience. It does seem to handle well on the ground though. I land mine with full flaps, and it settles nicely. I have to go to high rate elevator on the landing though, otherwise I can run out of elevator and have trouble flaring the plane. Read this entire post carefully, there is quite a bit of good advice.

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

Here's a photo of my mossie taking off. The stock tires are not too strong. They exploded on a landing that was a little hard (I forgot to go to high rates). Get some stronger tires. The invasion stripes help visibility greatly. I used rustoleum paint, then misted over it with polyurethane. It seems to be holding up to the fuel just great. I started with plastic spinners, but ended up getting some aluminum ones. The size is large enough that the plastic ones could not hold up. Also, if you nose over the spinners take the brunt of the force. If you need any advice, I'll be watching the postings.

cat5752

My Feedback: (1)

Todd,
Thanks for the reply. Great looking plane! Do you fly it much? The invasion stripes really do make a big difference. Just about every one of these planes that I have seen people build has them on it. How much weight did you end up putting in it when it was all said and done? The way I was looking at it, whether I use OS 46AXs, or Evo 46s or even Tower Hobbies 46s, it will end up with about 3.2 - 3.4 hp. I would think that would be enough. I can also see that if you were to use .25s, it wouldn't be. Something about pushing 11 pounds of airplane with 2 .25s doesn't compute. I don't know how much weight the camera and tx for it will add, but I don't think it is more than a few ounces. I have been reading Twinman's thoughts on mixing rudder and throttle, and I don't know whether to go that way, or use a gyro. Have you ever talked to anyone that uses one? Thanks for the patience.
Andy

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

I had to add over a pound in the nose. If you add a camera and transmitter, you just add a bit less lead. I wouldn't use two Tower 46's, you need something that runs more reliable (and consistantly equal), like two 46 AX's. Also, you would not be able to fit the Tower mufflers in without quite a bit of modifications. I have the throttles mixed with the rudder, but havn't had to use it. The plane tracks just fine and it is not a problem getting it to go straight down the runway. I even had an engine die on landing the other day, and I still brought it right in without a problem. My biggest problem seems to be getting the cowl screws to stop vibrating the holes too large in the fuse and coming loose.

DragonLines

My Feedback: (13)

Well mine went in today. Not sure what happened. It was flying great. I was doing some slow speed test to check the stall pattern and when I opened the throttles it went into a spin I couldn't get it out of. The engines sounded the same but I have to assume the left engine went dead. Fell about three hundred feet. Not hurt too terrible considering the drop. Between this one and the first one I should be able to fix one back up. Found the power switch in the off position. Could have happened on impact but I don't know. Good MPI switch, don't see how it could have got turned off in flight, had to be a dead engine and I inadvertantly turned into it.

gavin m

To stop cowl screw vidration try using a very short length of fuel tubing or an O ring over the cowl screws when fixing the cowl, this has worked for me on cowls & canpies. I also have the mosquito and am using 2 off RCV 58 engines, they are heavier than normal 52 four strokes hence I should'nt need as much lead at the front.
Is there a spray which will remain matt but will protect the paint on the mosquito from flaking off when cleaning fuel off.
Attached is image of undercarriage, a variation of that described on this forum.

Regards Gavin Mack

spitmad

There's alot of it about at the moment....................put mine in last week too!
My own stupid fault, as I had not flown the "lead sled" for some time and due to a "momentary lapse of reason" I dropped full flap on the downwind landing leg and sure enough she pitched nose up stalled and spun in !
I usually go for half flap and gear and do a circuit at half throttle to check gear down and only go to full flap on short final........Duhhw

This is my second write off after losing an engine on my first, but I've equired a new wing set and have reglassed the fuse and the third one will be an all black night fighter version, the Mossie is sensational to fly with 2 x 46AXs for motivation but can bite hard if not disciplined when landing!
Fortunately I still have 2 x B25s and a P38 to keep my twin obsession in check.
Alan

DragonLines

My Feedback: (13)

I can only assume at this point what happened. I believe the left engine died and I turned into it without knowing. Between this one and the first one with the bad wing I should be able to put one back togeather. I am not much good with fiberglass repairs. It will be a while as I have several other projects to finish first.

AlphaRomeo

Hi Guys, I bought my (Flair) Mossie a couple of months ago, and have so far resisted the urge to even remove the wrapping. I have been watching the banter and learning from your experiences as I determine my options and gather together all my bits and pieces.

I am going to use a pair of side-mounted 46AX's and am thinking about pitts mufflers, but not sure about a 2 or 3 bladed prop.

I had decided that I was going to have twin-leg landing gear before I found this site and am going to go mechanical for simplicity, but am wondering whether to go for a heavy-duty single leg wire, but painted matt black, with scale-looking plastic dummy-legs attached, or to go the 'ally' route of Lozza, DH71, Gavin etc. The first option keeps things simple and possibly lighter, but I do like the look of the models with the aluminum set-ups. Opinions appreciated.

I'm also thinking about landing lights and nav lights. Has anyone done this please?

I'm hopefully going to conceal the elevator control horns, and having read all the concerns about tail-heaviness, I have thought about scratch-building lighter tail surfaces, but as I said they are still sealed in the wraping so until I am ready to get started I don't know if I can make much difference.

I am going to get a new front blister vac-formed as I'm certain that this one is the wrong shape, and I've got a Brian Taylor version to use as a pattern. I'll keep you posted.

The one thing that I have done though, and may be of interest to a few of you who are lucky enough to have finished your models, is to contact a guy who apart from being a superb modeller (currently building a 12ft DC-3) has his own CNC business.

I provided him with a pattern from the 81" Brian Taylor plans last weekend and he has already done the programming and turned me a pair of scale spinners. The cut-outs for the props have still to be made, but already someone has ordered a pair from seeing mine in his factory!

He will make spinners for any model aircraft to as long as you can provide the pattern. His name is Dave Brown and his email is [email protected] - I will post pictures as soon as I can

gavin m

HI there all. Alpharomeo, looks like we are near to each other MY mozzie will be flying as soon as spinners sorted. When building the mozzie keep work area extremely clean as the paintwork flakes off especially at edges such as control surfaces. It may seem excessive to use oleo retracts but it doesn't half look good. we have managed to use normal size servos for throttles instead of mini servos.As can be seen from photos the engines stick out from cowl, therefore the spinner will have a 10mm approx recessed back plate.Once plane has flown I will install a video camera system. A colleague of mine at the club flew an identical mosquito but he had the C of G incorrect and the plane crashed when trying to land it. I have video of the flight. I am using 3 bladed 11 x7 apc initially The trouble with lights is routing the wires, The planes finish does not lend itself to cutting channels for wires, sorry for photo quality, bit dark for camera phone.

DVM100

Ive got a 72" CMPro MOssie and I can fit 2 x Supertigre 45's but I really want to put 2 x magnum 52 FS on board for more realistic sound. My only problem is the carbie which reduces the distance to thrust washer by about 10mm. Any suggestions for mounting so the cowl still looks scale?

DragonLines

My Feedback: (13)

There are some posts and pictures of this on this thread. I had .52's on mine. Basicly you have to cut a notch in the firewall to move the engine back or build on to the cowl.

DVM100

Alistair,

not sure if you have found the right pilots, but I've just got hold a two 1/12th size from Just Pilots in canada and they fit perfectly. In the process of painting them right now.

Dave

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

I used 1:9 scale pilots from Hanger 9, they seemed to fit well and were about the right scale.

DVM100

Guys,

I have J Perkins 90mm scale spinners on my mossie and they are just the right shape and size. happy to place pics and contact details if required. I also have Magnum 52 FS on board and she is looking good. 1/12th scale pilots added for extra "office" realism.

Dave

Eric.Henderson

Hi everyone.
After a summer of flying weather it finally rained here in south New Jersey. My Twin OS 52 side mounted version is back on the building board. The wing is finished except for some "Braille-scale" invasion stripes. It's pretty heavy with 8 servos in it. I decided to use two servos for the flaps and save myself the sloppy linkage issues that I always get with bell-cranks. I slowed the servo down to 100% on the JR 10SX-II. this makes for very gentle application of flap from the "land-switch".

The ailerons and flaps and retracts are on Y-Leads. The throttles have their own channels and idividual trims. They are also mixed with rudder but swtichable for ground taxiing only.

The stab halves took a lot of lining up. I added a small dowel anti-rotation pin to hold the incidence of each half while gluing. It will be cut out later. I am also using an internal horn for the elevators that is brazed to an elevator joiner, a bit like the flap joiner but made out of 1/8" piano wire.

I'll post pictures later of the UC legs that I used.

I am nervous about the CG being rearward and the potential high wing loading.

This thread has beeen extremely helpfull and I thank all of you who posted your issues, your solutions, and your experiences. They all have helped the building go smoother than if I was feeling my way. I printed this and other threads and stapled them together as "Bibles"

Regards,

Eric.

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

I was worried about the big one pound weight I had to put in the nose of mine, but it would have been much worse to fly it tail heavy. The wing loading is high, but I have not had any problems. I have a fairly long smooth surface runway though, I would not fly mine on grass. Make sure you do not use the CG shown in the instructions. I believe there has been plenty written in this thread about the proper CG. I mixed my throttles with the rudder also, but the plane tracks so nice on takeoff that I have never used it. Good luck with your maiden flight.

lozza1965

hot rod why would'nt you fly off grass then ?

lozza

Eric.Henderson

The pound of lead was pretty accurate. I began there and it was almost perfectly balanced. I fitted a 1/4" plywood wall to the inside of the nose. Then tapped two 1/4 x 20 threads to hold steel bolts to fasten the lead. Then I added peices of lead until it balanced. Then I melted the lead into an ingot. I lost a bit of the lead during the pouring process. It was easy to fiy flat plates of lead under the ingot to compensate for the lost lead.

The RX is being held by the 'ties that you can see. I have everything as far forward as possible. The Soinners use full backplates for their additional weight.

the weightt before lead was 12lb 12.1oz.

Now it only has to stop raining.... We have had it for a whole week...

Eric.Henderson

I made some changes to the control surface hook-ups.

The original horns were used but 5/16" dowels were inserted/epoxied into the conrol surfaces. The horns were then held in with srews rather than bolts. I have done this before and it avoids the the ugly plate on top of the flaps and ailerons. (Even though we are flying "way-off scale" here, it is nice to get rid of the plates).

I made an elevator joiner and put the horn inside the fuselage. The tail feathers are all now controlled internallly. If I had been thinking I could have done the same for the flaps as well.

The pushrods were replaced with CF rods and Central hobbies connectors. In one picture you can see my inspection cut-outs holes and also some TX-case-foam that I use to stop the rods from getting going with any engine vibration harmonics.

Eric.

Eric.Henderson

After much reading and porcelain palace thought I went for B&D retracts and FULTZ double spring legs. I have used them in high-punishment areas and once the steering pieces are removed they work very well as main legs.

The B&D's were easily drilled out to take the 3/16" center legs. The system is robust but forgiving. It also does not distort under use and will not easily twist. Not shown is are the flaps where I used two servos. This makes a total of 8 servos in the wing. The flaps, retracts, and Ailerons all use a Y-Lead each and then there are two extn. leads for the two throttles.

Still working on a labelling system for the 5 leads!

That little piece of foam in the wheel well is to stop the wheels rotating while in their retracted position. It also stops a very annoying in-flight rattle

Rain, rain, go away....


Eric.

cat5752

My Feedback: (1)

Eric,
Does B&D have a websight? Also, what size od tires did you go with?
Andy

Eric.Henderson

Try Omnimodels. These are B&D Mechanical retracts.

[link=http://www2.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/WOI0097p?&V=B+D]http://www2.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/WOI0097p?&V=B D[/link]


The wheels are 3-1/2" I have 4" wheels that wil also fit.

Eric.