mr_matt

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LOVE the mods, great model building.

bobparks2, are you the Bob Parks I worked with on special projects a dozen years ago?

bobparks2

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Yes. I was bidding on an auction here and all of a sudden RCU wouldnt take my password anymore, so I had to create the bobparks2 ID. At least I won the auction, but I got stuck with this ID now!

I got my R54 framed out last January, and have not had time to work on it since. Maybe this winter! I have an, as yet untested, kit built, Wren 54 MKIII for it.

BTW, Wren makes a nice new mount that is ideal for the R54. Its a band clamp type, but designed to be bolted down directly to a single plate. You will need a shim to get the thrust line, but its lighter, cleaner and looks better than the typical tab type mounts with brackets. I tried linking a photo, but the system wont let me right now. Its on the Wren web site. I also have the FOD screen front end for it. The only problem is the green Wren clashes with all the color schemes I want to use on the R54!

Bob

mr_matt

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Hi Bob,

Nice to talk to you, sorry for the questioning, you never know out here in the RCU Wild West!

I have not opened the box on my kit yet, work and family has taken the hobby to a slow crawl (not even sure if the crawl is forward or backward!)

PS I just got the Nova "Battle of the X Planes", have you seen it....I thought it was excellent!

Talk to you later,

BruceTharpe

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Warren, I love it! Very creative - can't wait to see what kind of color scheme you come up with to compliment the new shapes...

Take Bob Parks comments as constructive criticism and keep an eye out for excess heat. The kit comes with a stainless steel sheet to install above the engine and I suspect that will still protect the fuselage just fine.

Tommy, I also love what you've done with your #2 Reaction! You guys should really be proud of your craftsmanship.

bobparks2

My Feedback: (1)

Bruce,

My concern is ahead of where the stainless normally is. There is the potential to recirculate some exhaust gas if the scoops are not providing enough air to match what the engine needs plus some to give a bit of bypass flow around the engine.

My Wren 54 wants to ingest about .4 lbs of air per second, which is about 5 cu ft per second. At 100 mph, thats about 5 sq in of inlet area, but thats assuming really good clean inlets, and you still want some extra for bypass. Part of the concern with those ducts is that it looks (from the photos) that the cross section area gets really small as it goes past the wing high point, and then does a pretty rapid divergence from there aft, and that is going to cut the airflow through there.

If enough flow doesnt get into the base region to feed the engine, then its going to suck it in from behind, and with the blunt base that could pull in some exhaust gas.

Like I mentioned, I am not sure if this will be a significant problem, but its worth keeping an eye on things for the first test runs and test flights.

And it will be a bit less thrust and more drag than the stock setup. It should fly just fine, but it certainly will not be faster in level flight.

Finally, I have had to learn a lot more about these kind of things than I really wanted to for a current work project... but putting a 700 lb thrust cruise missile engine into a 10 ft span airplane is kind of interesting.

Bob

Mach1

My Feedback: (5)

Bob.
Thanks for the tips.

Actually, the flow through the inlets is quite good in 'static tests' with 70+ mph flow. Will have to see what the real world brings.



Bruce...here's the scheme I am using.

Bob.R

My Feedback: (2)

Nice build, nice photoshop!

bobparks2

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What are the inlet lip dimensions? They look kind of small, but I keep underestimating just how big an R54 is!

That color scheme looks FANTASTIC! Would you mind if I "borrowed" it for mine?

Bob

Wayne22

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you should name it the "T-54" ...looks great!!

BruceTharpe

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I agree - simply awesome!!!

Mach1

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Bob,

Here's the inlet dimensions.

bobparks2

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Yeah, I really keep forgetting just how big the R54 is! Thats about 11 sq inches at the lip for both sides, so that 70 mph you mentioned, if its the flow speed at the inlet lip, would be the engine flow plus some bypass for cooling. If it was a bit ahead of the lip, even better. Should be fine.

Sure does look neat!

Bob

bobparks2

My Feedback: (1)

Hopefully, here is the photo of that Wren engine mount.

Bob (trying a different browser this time)

maxvertical

Looks very nice, will certainly attract a crowd. Have any idea where you will be weight wise? Just trying to get an overall feel for what guys have been finding themselves at. Am also wondering since it looks like you glassed this one.
CR

TommyWatson

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Bruce,

It is a tribute to the great basic design of the R54 that we are "Customising". Warrens is really radical and should look great in the air. I am just trying to make mine a little more "Slippery".
Noel is getting on with his and we are both going to a jet meeting tomorrow. Hope I can show what the R54 can do.

Regards

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

Just wondering if anyone has used the three hour epoxy for joining the wing halves as Bruce has suggested. Although I haven't looked locally, there doesn't seem to be much online. Thanks.

Marty

TommyWatson

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I used BVM Aeropoxy. It takes all night to set, is expensive, but it is bulletproof.

Regards

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

Bruce,

Here is a photo of the Aussie Reaction 54 owners!!.

Tom Watson and Noel Priestley

Regards

BruceTharpe

My Feedback: (1)

A distinguished pair if I ever saw one! And two of my favorite airplanes. Opposite ends of the wing area scale

r degen

Hey Guys what servos are you using in your Reactions ?? can you list them Thanks Randy

Mach1

My Feedback: (5)

Mount made for P-60. Light small and strong.


Warren G. Hunter

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

Rcman58,
If you decide to go with the recommended Hitecs suggested in the manual, Check out Servo city. They are having a 20% off all Hitecs this week only. Could save you a couple of bucks. Wish I new about this a week ago[:@]

http://www.servocity.com/html/hitec_servos.html


Marty

r degen

afterburner that is what I had in mind is the manual on line somewhere I need the list of servos Thanks

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

I'm not sure if the manual is online. Here's the recommended minimum (torque wise) Hitecs:
3 HS-5625MG. 2 for ailerons, 1 for rudder.
3 HS-5645MG 2 for flaps, 1 for elevator
2 HS-225MG Nosewheel steering and Retract valve.

Marty

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

I use the same as Marty, but I use Hitec 5245 Mini servos for the steering and brakes so I can program the travel. The steering and brakes are mixed to other chanels and it makes the setup simpler.
I also use a 5245 for the retracts because I had one spare.

Never had a problem with Hitec, and I don't use standard (Non Digital) any more. I think Digital servos just "Feel" better. Just be sure to use a big battery. You need the nose weight anyway. Mine is a 2100 Mah 5 cell pack used WITHOUT a regulator.

regards