PaPa-NeGeorgeo

My Feedback: (3)

As i said before i got the sig Kadet LT-40
Just need to double check on a few things before i start cutting and glueing.

1) The hobby shop dealer gave me two glues a CA 1-3 seconds and a CA+ 5-8 seconds, should i use the CA+ in the regular (medium) construction or the other one, and when it says to glue in slow glue do i use the medium or do i got to get another glue. Note: Slow glue does not refer to the epoxy firewall,landing gear etc.., just for gluing boards together.

2) Do i first place the part in place then glue around the joint, or glue the two parts the will be conjoined and then place them together?

3) Will straight pins do the same job as T-pins?

4)Do i insert the pins right thruough the balsa wood?

5)Is epoxy really need or could i just use CA+ on the firewall?

6) how much glue is needed on a normal part?

Thats about it just making sure before something really goes wrong.

Thank you,

Papa

Steve Guinn

Med. CA.
in place
yes
in the large pieces
yes/no
not much


Good luck Papa...

PaPa-NeGeorgeo

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks steve perfect example of short and Sweet!!

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

Papa, although it is ok to use Ca glue at different times during construction, keep in mind that the most important glue to be used in balsa wood model airplanes is by far, aliphatic glue (regular wood glue, Titebond, Pica GlueIt, etc.), and it is also, the least expensive and the one that is totally harmless in the long run, this glue is used for all areas, except when gluing firewalls, landing gear hardwood blocks, stabilizer and also when glueing two wing panels together, at these times, epoxy 15 to 30 minutes is the best choice.
I honestly believe aliphatic is the glue for beginners, because it gives you time to reposition parts, if a mistake is made (and they are made).
I have been building models for over 26 years, and always been around elite modelers, they and I, use all kinds of glues, but believe me, use Ca's with care, serious side effects can happen if you are not careful, always use in well ventilated areas, because this is not always possible, your best choice is aliphatic at these times.

Crashem

How do you figure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CA Bonds quicker is lighter and is supposedly stronger (remember the crazy glue guy suspended from the steel I-Beam from his hard hat )

All of the planes I've built with the exception of the first two over the last eighteen years have used ONLY CA and epoxy!!!!!

Building with aliphatic glue is Slow and requires clamps, jigs T-pins etc.. to hold the parts while the glue dries

Believe me ONCE you learn how to use CA Correctly you'll NEVER go back!!!

Steve Guinn

I prefer Titebond or Elmers carpenters glue.

JohnW

My Feedback: (6)

I agree that CA should not be substituted for Expoy. I however really dislike aliphatic glues for the same reasons Crashem listed. If I am going to go to the effort of clamping parts, why not use a stronger lighter glue like polyurethane? Another issue with aliphatic is that it delivers moisture to the wood which can cause warping, especially when making laminates. Quite honestly, polyurethane glue will give more time to position parts than aliphatic. Poly also has a much stronger bond and is sandable. Cost for poly glue isn't really that high considering very small amounts are needed. However, for beginners, I suggest to stick with the CA and epoxy. Need time to position a part with CA? Just use medium CA and a catalyst.

Steve Guinn

What you all think of Sigment?

PaPa-NeGeorgeo

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the replies,
1) is stage 11 epoxy good for glueing the firewall?
2) how "perfect" does everything have to be ive glued some parts together id already if i look real close can see a little air between my bottom rear spar and wing cover. Is that ok or am i screwed?
3) how long do i have to wait for glue to cure so i can glue another piece on?
4) is gluing medium glue on then instant glue after acceptable?

Papa

Scorpionjack

Sigment? LOL Thats like going back 30 years and using Ambroid again.
Since the introduction of CA's, Carpenter white glues, and epoxy's. There has been never been a need for me to go backwards and use Sigment.

CA's
Titebond
ProBond
5,12,30 and finishing Epoxy
Polyester Resin

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Yes Jack, but look at it this way Ambroid, Testors and clones like Sigment really are the most enjoyable to chew off your fingers! Particularly sitting in the pits at the Quickee races trying to stay calm waiting for the next round.

John

MAJSteve

My Feedback: (-1)

ahhh Ambroid - I still have about a tube laying around. I remember the happy days of pins and glue. You could actually make your modeling pants almost prop-proof if you wiped your fingers on them like I did. Had a couple of pair where the right thigh was just like plastic.

I use almost every adhesive/glue/cement except white glue on a regular basis. Mostly I use quick CA and 5 min epoxy. Haven't had a plane come apart yet except on impact. I use the poly on laminations, the CA on most joints and the epoxy anywhere the other two wouldn't work.

Steve Guinn

Now back to PaPa's next questions on post #9.
Sorry for leading the witnesses, PaPa....

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

I use primarily CA papa. I use Epoxy on the tail surfaces at times, but not always, and almost always on the firewall and gear. Also use epoxy on the center section of the wing. I do go back and put wood glue on all the joints in the wing after building, more to please myself than anything else. I have done it on most, and on the ones I haven't double glued, they seem to be just as strong. As for the piece you can see light under, what was it? Might not be that important. If it is, put a thin bead of epoxy down it with the radius about the end of a popsicle stick. I use them to put fillets of epoxy along the bulkheads at times too. Everyone has their own opinions, maybe have your instructor come over and make sure you are doing it right. He will be the best advice you can get because he can see what you are doing.

PaPa-NeGeorgeo

My Feedback: (3)

Flyboy,
the air is between the wing rib 2 and the bottom ws-2 if that means anything to you. Its a sig-40 but i just wanna make everything as perfect as possible.
also i tryed a bunch of kitchen knives utility knives and modeling knives but nothing seem sharp enough to cut through the hardwood main spar fo the wing. Is there a special knife that does this or do i just bring out the saw?

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

If the gap is between the spar and a rib, don't worry about it. Double glue everything later like I said with white wood glue, or yellow. I use a dental mixing tool with a rounded end on it and put a fillet in all the rib joints to the spar and leading edge and trailing edges.

To cut the spar, you need a good xacto razor saw. Your hobby shop will have one. Don't try to cut it with a blade or steak knife. You will get a really bad cut, and if you do things like that, the plane will look like a hack job, and not fly well. Strive for a well built kit. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the better you build it, the better it will fly.

PaPa-NeGeorgeo

My Feedback: (3)

Ive visited a local flying club but noone was there do people fly in the winter or only in the best of weather?

4*60

My Feedback: (41)

Most people won't be flying around Ottawa in the winter. Some may fly off skis when the snow is good, but that depends on the club members.

http://www.maac.ca/zones/clubs/clubs_g.html