trpastor

So you see all three I'm talking about then?

I may be calling it the LSN incorrectly, but it does control how the engine reacts on the low end. It's also shorter to abbreviate LSN

They shouldn't call that one the idle adjusting mixing screw. the idle adj. should be the one directly below the filter.

I can tell you for sure the one on the flange affects the first 1/2 of acceleration and if it's too rich it will be blubbery and want to choke to death (and yes about 1 1/2 or so to start). The HSN is the main one and affects the 2nd half of the throttle. If it's rich similar thing only at the top end.

I had issues at first with both and was able to correct it with this approach so I'm sure it is correct. The directions are BAD if you've never had a nitro before. I'll take better pics tomorrow to show you if you need.

Let me know if it helps it

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

It is called the correct name because it is the idle mixture screw. The idle screw controls the rpm's and the idle mixture screw contols the fuel/air mixture at idle - 50 %.

trpastor

Ok - fair enough. I have just referred to them as LS and HS screws.

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

I'm sorry I didn't mean that in a bad way. All is good. Just wanted to clarify.

trpastor

hey c.d. - no offense taken. Just wanted to specify so if anyone was reading back in threads and had seen LSN they would know it is also (or is) referred to as the idle mixture screw.

Guys - have I said lately that I love this buggy? This thing is an absolute blast. I got the software going and I will get some video together soon. I'm redoing my bathroom so it may be a week or so before I have time.

ScottHarp

Got mine out to the track again today. Man I love this car!!! Now if I can just learn to jump. I am used to going in circles and on pavement.

Anyway I had it running about 270* and it was loading up on the bottom end, rich. I tried messing with the screw on the left of the carb (from rear of car) and I really messed it up. I enlisted the help of a guy that really had his car running well. He came over and looked at it and said "Hmmmm, 3 needle carb, don't know about this..." I talked him into helping. After looking into the carb we decided to adjust the other screw, the one that moves WITH THE THROTTLE for the low end setting.

I return the screw I messed with to the place I started. We fire it up and take it out. It dies, in about 1/16 on the lowend screw. Start her back up and out we go, better. But still loading up and only 210*. We adjust the high end a little and a little on the lowend. Better but still a little stubborn. One more time out and BINGO!!! 240* and plenty of bottome end.

Now if I can get them to get rid of those dang jumps!!!

trpastor

Scott - I was having issues with jumps until I adjusted the shocks. I let the back ones all the way up (full softness) and tightened down the front ones by about 1/2 inch. Now it has good spring on the front and I think it helps to spring up the nose before take off.

Give it a whirl. I have been jumping great ever since.

ScottHarp

I will give that a try.

I also picked up some different tires for it today. We will see Sunday!!

synergism721

Anyone tell me about the set screw on the center diff? Should I have it locked down or front to rear slip?

porter04

Hi , im new to all this and it is my first ever post.

I have a 1/8th scale bazooka and it is the best thing i have ever had. I have flipped it many times and drove off with no probs. I have only broken a tooth off the main gear and i went to a hobby shop and got a new one there and than. Some unknown nitro`s are hard for parts but the bazooka is the best for money and it is a really strong build. Starts eaisily and always.

The reason it broke the tooth was bacause the motor was not close enough so the gears didnt mash properly so anyone bying a new one chack before u drive it. I have already lost a wheel nut but was lucky enough to find it again. tuning has been a pain in the ....... prob cause this is my first one. it will run fine than it wont, im not sure exactly what needle does what, i have a rough idea but just wondering if anyone could give a detailed description

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

THis was all mentioned on the page before with a picture. Here is the link again. Trpastor wrote a nice little write up. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3838334

trpastor

Hey Synergism - not sure about the set screw. I haven't messed with it but that sounds more like personal preference (if you are asking should you have it drive more on the front when possible).

Hey Porter - Good to have you! So when you went to get a new main gear - which part did you buy (for a Kyosho etc). Any parts you've mixed and matched would be good for others to hear about.

On the tuning - being new is probably most of why it is tough. You really just have to get a feel for it. And also try to adjust one thing at a time so you can see how it affects it.

There are some other posts here and there about it - so definitly skim through but once again the Low Speed Adj is on the throttle flange. The screw opposite this screw should not be moved. THe LS affects acceleration. If it is dying on you when you begin hitting throttle it's to rich or too lean

The HSN affects from about 1/2 acceleration and on. If it wants to cut out on you then that needle is too rich or too lean. You have to have them each close to begin with though or it will make it tough to figure anything out.

For my engine and weather I have mine set at about 1 3/4 turns on the LS and 3 turns on the HS for a starting point.

The idle screw just does the idle. Should be barely open. Also - the idle (or amount of opening in the carb when you look in) should NOT change from idle posistion to when you hit the break. If it closes off when you hit the break you don't have your servo centered. And trust me, you don't want to have your break on all the time to keep your car still or you will go through clutch shoes

synergism721

My 1/8 buggy has a set screw that seems to adjust the slip between front and rear. What is the center unit called? How should it be set?

redbull08

Hello I also am new to the whole RC cars but am very interested in it. I have been looking on e-bay for a car and that is where i saw the hurricane xp. Of course i had to look at it because it said 80mph and it was a lot more inexpensive then the others. Now tell me honestly is this the car i want for the money? What other buggies can i put against it with speed? i see all of the parts for it to up grade so they dont break but what i really want is speed. I have a big area to race it and a few other buddies that have some stadium trucks so i just want to blow them out of the water. Its been years since i have worked on these things and RC10 was the best thing out when i had one. I am not so worried about tuning the engine because a 2 stroke is a 2 stroke they are always going to need tuning and rebuilding that is why they are balls to the wall. Any help you could give me would be wonderful i want to order something soon and i have really only looked on Redcat and e-bay. Thanks

Buggygovroom

Yes the hurricane is the best bang for your buck that I could find ready to run. It is pretty durable and can keep up with the more expensive cars out there for sure. Whoever advertised 80mph is a bit off when it comes to top speed. Maybe 55-60 out of the box but you probably can get it to 80mph on a nice warm day and a clutch bell with more teeth, but you will lose acceleration. I keep a couple different clutch bells around for different days depending on what im doing but a 15 tooth clutch bell got me pretty damn close to 70 mph when i do runs in wide open areas and that was with the hurricane XL with the .21 motor.. the xp has a nicer tune pipe and a .27 motor so im sure you will be extremely pleased with it. I'd say go for it.

redbull08

Thanks Buggygovroom, you were talking about the new clutch bell. Does redcat sell the better clutch on their site or did you pick it up somewhere else? Do you have any other sites for parts other then redcat?

trpastor

Hey Redbull- Welcome to the thread.

If you had seen what I"ve done to mine and what little I've broken (officially nothing. Just bent the front shock tower a bit and not to the point I've had to change it) You would be very impressed with them. I've hit a tree flipped up 4ft+ and nothing. Jumping it off rounded curbs I've cartwhelled 6+ times, flipped end over end, landed on the nose, the one that finally bent the shock tower was jumping off a ramp I set up where it was getting about 5ft vertical at it's peak it came down and almost in air hit a brick wall (I had limited space

I'm selling my ofna I had becuase I am happier with this one.

Speed - they are fast. I don't know about how fast but I would guess out of the box 45+ mph. I think the rated speeds are quite off but I haven't done any messing with them. It is faster than my ofna it seems though but they are close. All 1/8 out of the box are going to have a top end of around this. Most are made to be run on tracks where you would never use the top end. but it is quick as hell, that's for sure.

Parts - many people have found interchangability with Kyosho parts. Some things are pretty interchangable between 1/8ths in general. The tires/rims can be changed with ofna's. The engine I'm sure you can replace with antoher like OS or wasp if you wanted but I haven't had to yet.

For the cost I would highly recommend this buggy. I think it's a hell of a bargain for the quality and speed you get. OH - my throttle servo wimped out on me. I had one I was going to switch in anyway though

Hey BGVroom - where did you get the clutch bells? Did you get ones that fit Kyosho? Have you found the gearing to make a difference in top end or acceleration? Give us the scoop

Buggygovroom

I got the clutch bells from a local hobby shop. I believe there are ebay stores that sell parts for the redcat buggies, but I just took whatever parts I needed to replace or find upgrades for to the local hobby shop with me and compared. A lot of the parts from kyosho and ofna 1/8 buggies are the same and can be interchanged except for a few different parts. Most likely anything that is not interchangable you would only have to replace in the event of a very bad crash anyway. trpastor and myself have beat the hell out of our buggies and posted about it here so i don't think durability is a problem with these buggies either the redcat website has a bunch of aluminum upgrade parts including front and rear upper and lower suspension arms and a few other things that look like a good idea to get but not needed for street or parking lot running... just keep it on the rich side if you plan on doing a good deal of hard high rpm running in wide open spaces, even a bit to rich to where you get hesitation to keep from destroying your motor. I made that mistake already unfortunately

Buggygovroom

I got the clutch bells for a .21 motor i assume. I took my origional to the shop and compared to see what would fit. I picked up 13 14 and 15 tooth clutch bells. Just remember more teeth makes for better top end but slower acceleration and less teeth means better acceleration but less top end. On the clutch bell with more teeth im sure i was close to 70 mph before i ran out of room and skidded about 10 feet into a fence but was happy with the results nonetheless Im going to the hobby shop soon to get some more odds and ends and a motor so i'll be able to mess around with it some more later today. I'll also let you know about the interchangeable motors in a few weeks i want to pick up a .27 motor and maybe a new tune pipe.

trpastor

Cool - good to know in a pinch or if I want to go to upgrades that aren't otherwise available I can probably switch out with Kyosho etc.

When you switched out all those parts from the Kyosho (that was you right did you notice if I was just to replace the front shock tower if the kyosho would fit correctly? I'm thinking of trying to get a carbon fiber up front from Kyosho parts. The only other thing I'm thinking of doing is buying another redcat one and doubling it up but I don't want to add the weight to the nose.

I'll stop bugging you after this one - but with all your switching of gears (I don't know if you messed with the main gear or not) did you notice much improvement or do you think they were pretty well geared out of the box?

trpastor

That's weird my post is showing as being after yours on that last one

Oh well

synergism721

The speeds would be about right if they were KMH instead of MPH.

ScottHarp

Does the LS screw move with the throttle or is it the stationary one? The reason I am asking what you guys are referring to as the LS screw is the following. We could not get my Hurricane XP to come around, tuning wise, by moving the stationary one. I set it back and adjusted the movable one and it was no problem to tune.

trpastor

Ok, Hope this clears it up once and for all.

The images I have posted here are as follows

1. The main adj screw or the HSN (high speed needle). This will affect the engine from about middle to top end of acceleration

2. the Low speed adjustment (I call is LSN for short even though it's not a needle). It is the one located within the flange.

3. The idle adjustment. It is under the filter.

4. The idle should look about like this when the control is in neutral AND with the break on. It may look a little different depending on engine and conditions.

5. This screw should NOT be adjusted and should be tightened in. Not excessively but it should not be free moving. This screw is often the LSN on other engines so it is confusing. But on other engines, the flange side usually is NOT a screw at all (in my limited experience). It would have been clearer if they left this a flush nut.

6. This is the damage I've done to mine after LOTS of filps, cartwheels running into a tree, hitting a wall after a jump and generally nose diving into the ground off a ramp. Not bad

I did lose a tooth on my main gear. Does anyone know if I could have done that by hitting the break when it landed or not really? What about having the throttle on while it landed?

Happy driving

Xeller8

You can break teeth by either hitting the brake OR too much throttle when landing from a jump.

My buggy seems to be running pretty darn good except I am having one HELL of a time getting a fairly consistant idle or even KEEPING it idling...it either idles too fast or dies when I get off the gas and let it come down to where it should idle...also when it is warm I am having a hard time starting it....I have to pull the throttle linkage open just a touch while trying to start it.....I have adjusted...re-adjusted and adjusted again...I'm thinking I may have carb issues....other than that....she is a SCREAMER.