dthomp8007

rt3232

Hey Bob,

Your right that is why we do have that stick. I want to have the power if I need it and it feels good to hit the chest a couple of times too... he he he I would like to do several mods. I want to do the sliding cockpit, the droping bombs, maybe some smoke, working lights, stuff like that.


I need help if anyone has a local hobby shop that currently has a TF Giant F4U corsair in stock will you please let me know!!!!!



Devin

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

No problem Bob. I should have the lion's share of the install done later today or tomorrow. Seems like the key to it will be the brass plate that will mount to the airframe side of the canopy for both stiffening purposes and to provide some purchase for the slide screws to go into the canopy. The two screws will be at opposing ends of the brass piece which should just slide rearward and pivot down ward in angle from the front rails. I'll get a couple of shots of it up when I get the straps cut and drilled.

This will allow me to test the mechanism a bit before mounting it to the canopy which should be helpful.

Mike

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Alright, now I'm getting a little more excited about this process. It's taken easily less than an hour to get this far, and so far this little brass connecting plate with 2 #2 sheet metal screws tracks effortlessly through these channels, and I think that attaching the canopy won't affect it to such a degree that it won't function just about perfectly. So far a lot easier than I thought.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

sort of the meat and potatoes of the operation....

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Wolf190

Looking great, thats about the same as my layout, have you held the canopy to the plates to check for full opening??


Cheers Bob t

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

I had to cut the rails shorter than I wanted--just less than 3 inches-- in order to get them to fit right in the sides. The canopy will open to just behind "Dorf" pilot's shoulders, slightly ahead of the rear cockpit former. I would have liked to have gotten another half an inch out of it, but I wanted to run the channel at the same angle as the framing on the side of the cockpit, and to do that allowed for only as much movement as I get here. Due to the fact that it rakes upwards slightly, however, from what I can tell what it will look like in the open position, it should look quite nice. I don't really care if my guy is kind of tight to get in and out, as I don't plan on taking him out much----he's got a little Napolean complex after the leg surgery[&o].

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Good Evening Gentleman,

Rt3232,
So that I wouldn't have to trim the ribs for the wing tips I sandwiched a 1/4" piece of balsa in between the 2 tips for more meat, this way here when attached to the ribs I can go about my sanding procedure (per corsairjock's mod on the tips) with out cutting in to the ribs.
I have them pinned in to be sure for alignment and they look right but, will recheck them in the A.M. to be certain, they glue them in.
George

cliff600

My Feedback: (3)

These pics are really good. You guys talk about sliding canopies, gear doorsand folding wings. I will just be tickled to death if mines flies. It is hard for me to believe that something that comes in that many pieces, that I glue a put together will fly. If it works though I will probably never buy another ARF again.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Cliff, from what I've seen they not only fly, they fly awesome. I've only seen one fly, but it gave the plane the nod for me. Ripped up the sky I thought on a G62, huge loops, with that characteristic tail wiggle they have. Even looked like it landed pretty easy from what I could tell.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Clif600

If you build it as close as possible to the plan and the instruction book with one exception the C/G should be at 51/8, it will fly at the suggested place but when you slow done it will snap to the left I learned this on my first build.

If you have any questions ask


Cheers BobT

Ctflyboy
Idid the same at the tip and i still had a bump, if you scab in some sheeting between the ribs and then sheet over per the plans when you sand you can almost get all of the bump out.


Cheers Bob T

PS I have a stans cowl that I am not going to use if anyone can use I will let it go.. pm or e-mail me if intersted

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Clif600

If you build it as close as possible to the plan and the instruction book with one exception the C/G should be at 51/8, it will fly at the suggested place but when you slow done it will snap to the left I learned this on my first build.

If you have any questions ask


Cheers BobT

Ctflyboy
Idid the same at the tip and i still had a bump, if you scab in some sheeting between the ribs and then sheet over per the plans when you sand you can almost get all of the bump out.


Cheers Bob T

PS I have a stans cowl that I am not going to use if anyone can use I will let it go.. pm or e-mail me if intersted

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Not perfect, but it works good. I would have ran the rails at a lower rake as I think it's a shade tall at the top front, and doing that might have allowed for that last half inch. So, if you're watching George, there's a tip. I'll film the next step for you tomorrow when I'm waiting on the sheeting on the Hellcat to dry. That will be making the little bracing pieces in the front that will hold the rare earth magnets and matching a dowel insert to make sure the thing doesn't go flying off upwards.

Canopy can even come off with a little working on the slide. The canopy puts some pressure on the screws in the slide from the natural shape of it which keeps it from sliding around on it's own. I figured out the two pressure points to put on the canopy when sliding it back, and when I use those it slides back effortlessly. So far the time investment to do this is very small, especially so when considering the total time it takes to build the kit, pretty well worth the little effort for a sport-scale job on this one I think. The last pic is from behind with the canopy in the open position. I'm happy with that fit on the slide, think it's probably about right.

Dave_ORCC

Wulf,

Looks great!! I was going to do a sliding canopy, then not but, seeing how simply it can be done I might just go ahead and give it a try. How hard, or what would you do to make that sliding canopy servo-operated? Whaddya think, would it be worth it or simply make the whole thing a lot more complex?

Well, waiting for the F/G I ordered to arrive and as soon as it does I'll be starting in on that task. Hopefully a buddy of mine who's done a lot of glassing can come over and give me a hand, I haven't got a whole lot of experience doing it. I did however just finish laying up the glass that will become the gear doors. I layed up 3 layers of 2oz cloth. What have you folks done? Is that enough or will I have to lay up another layer or two? Time will tell.

Well, off to watch the epoxy dry

Cheers,
Dave

cliff600

My Feedback: (3)

I need some help. I have gotten all of my flaps built and hinged, but the wire connecting them is not cooperating. It pulls the flaps out of the hinges or it will not flex very far down. Do I need to bend them some or what? It looks just like the pic in the book sooo have I screwed something else up? any help will be great.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Dave, a servo operated canopy could be done, but I would recommend building that into the fuse before it's sheeted. I hadn't much need for a servo to do the work as I'll only open it on the ground so as not to risk ripping the thing off there from the prop blast. If you use a servo, you'll need a cleaner slide than this setup will allow for too as a servo wouldn't pull it in the manner it needs to fiddled with to get it open. I didn't want it too free once things were on there though, and it turned out about exactly like I wanted it in that regard.

I'm shooting some video of this little process for George. If you want a copy of the DVD, let me know and I'll include it with the cockpit when I send it back to you. You'll need ability to play DVD-R format on your DVD player, or your computer if its DVD ready will work.

Cliff, the flap arrangement is a little bit of a weak point in design I think. I like the Ziroli design much better which uses a plywood plate in place of the wire connector. It takes a lot of fiddling. Keep working on it. It's tough to get an idea if everythings right when the hinges aren't glued in as the flap wants to flex and move and jiggle around when your trying to fit everything. It was kind of a pain for me, but as I bought mine framed here on RCU, I can't complain much.

Mike

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi guys

Clif600

On the flaps, there are two ways to fix, one is th plug and redrill the side the wire stays to the correct angle, thats what I did on my first build, this time arround it was a lot easer to just bend at about a 10 deg.

Wolf190

your canopy looks great so far, how are you going to suport the line of the opening?? If mine was not covered I think I would give it a go..

Cheers Bob T

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Wolf190, Take a look at this diagram I drew. I believe yu would get better travel with this setup. The front rail is slightly more level than you have there. Also the rear rail follows the angle of the turtledeck.

I'm not real familiar with the T/F but it works perfect on a Bud Nosen Corsair.

In the second picture (sorry I don't have a close up) You can see the rear rail and get a good idea where the front rail should be. This way you would be running with the fuse instead of crossing it.

Note: I marked level on the diagram It should have been drawn slightly up towards the rear. and the rear rail should be up ever so slightly in the rear so the canopy will clear the turtledeck.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks Kelly, That's exactly how I WANTED to set it up, but the way the canopy fit combined with the setup of the cockpit, stringers and fuse pushed me to do it the way that I did, as I just couldn't see any way that the canopy would fit to provide the slide channel in a more level position at the position indicated. You'll see in the pics how far down on the fuse the canopy drops, below the level of the canopy framing on the sides, so unless the sides were cut away down to that level---read butchering cockpit sides--then I was left to put the channel under the closest area to the side of the fuse, which if I did this at a flat angle, then the fuse would have either have had to have been built up to fill the gap between it and the canopy, or the canopy flexed inwards towards the fuse so far that it would have really been difficult to slide at all. This is only one way to do it that's simple and can be duplicated by someone else really easy. If it's a little off, I'm not going to lose any sleep on it. There are many things that can be done to make this bird more scale, but after doing a paint job on the smaller one, I'm well aware of how far off certain areas are from scale that really not much can be done with short of huge effort, wing panel lines are off as a result of the scale digression, as is the fuel tank seal tape lines showing that the front of the fuse isn't right between the cockpit and the cowl. With these and all the other little issues, I'm only looking for effect here, not a true scale model. Scale is a flat arrangement on the front sliding across the top with the channel facing up, so either one isn't exactly right. My real concern was fit and operation which was achieved. It wouldn't be tough to just lower the angle of the front rail a little though to keep the front of the canopy a little lower in the open position. I've got about 3/32 between the canopy and the fuse at the back, so that's close.

Bob, the framing on the rear of the windscreen and front of the sliding part will be from either 1/4 or 3/16 spruce and will hold a few rare earth magnets and a dowel. That part is next and I'll keep the pics coming for it.

cliff600

My Feedback: (3)

Which way do I need to bend the wires? How much deflection do I need to get on the flaps to make the work properly?

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Cliff, the hardest part to get a clean arrangement on is at the highest point of curvature on the leading edge of the flap in the lowered position. This is the point at which there is most distance between the flap segments, and if I know what you're talking about, I would say a slight bend or V shape with the apex to the rear might help to keep them together at the pin when in the lowered position. I would say about 40 degrees, which I wondered how I was going to achieve at first. Mine is about at it's limit of ability in the down position.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Cliff600

Hear a coupla of pic,s that might help, I toke these with the flaps down at about 48 deg's, (full down) I tryed to hold the camera at 90 deg's to the upper flap surface.

The inbord wire is solid in the inboard flat and is bent toward the L/E at about20 deg's

The outoard wire is solid in the center flap, and is bent about 5 deg's tward the L/E

Will have to try to down load later as I have done somthing wrong

Sorry Bob T

cliff600

My Feedback: (3)

O.K. I got it yea I will have about 50 degrees to use. Now I am just waiting for the glue to dry so I can install the servos. Thanks to you all that have helped

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

pic's

These are of the right wing, so left hand flap is inbd..

Hope these help

Dave_ORCC

I was going to start mounting my engine this afternoon and couldn't find any measurements in the instructions about how far from the firewall the thrust washer should be. In the manual it mentions the US 41 engine and a specific soft mount. When those are mounted then mount the cowl with the appropriate prop clearance. Seeing as I'm not using a US41, or that particular mount, I can't figure out how far the thrust washer is from the firewall. Anyone able to tell me what distance they have set up on theirs?

Cheers,
Dave

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Dave ORCC
What engine are you going to use ? also what mount?