Reaction 54 Jet Kit
#951
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
The only problem I see with using heat shield is it not shiny and any smudges or marks will be real hard to remove since it has a texture is's finish
#952
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
The other Mike wrote ...
The only problem I see with using heat shield is it not shiny and any smudges or marks will be real hard to remove ...
The only problem I see with using heat shield is it not shiny and any smudges or marks will be real hard to remove ...
Mike
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
G'Day Bob,
I used the Stainless sheet under the turbine as usual then put BVM Ceramic paint on the resat of the fuse bottom behind the turbine. I like the idea of the stainless sheet and it adds not much weight.
Regards
I used the Stainless sheet under the turbine as usual then put BVM Ceramic paint on the resat of the fuse bottom behind the turbine. I like the idea of the stainless sheet and it adds not much weight.
Regards
#954
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
I am at the stage where I need to sheet the top rear of the fuselage, and am wondering why I need to put the hatch and fuel shutoff there. Is there a reason that I can not put the fuel shutoff in front of the engine where the lines come out of the boat tail. It would seem like a much better location just in front of the turbine, where you can have access and visual. I look forward to your comments.
#956
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
There is no reason you cannot put it there. Mike (wd40) has his located there and it is no problem. You need to put it where you can get to it incase of an emergency and where you will remember to close it after your flight. Whatever works for you.
Tommy
Tommy
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
Thanks for the replies on the shutoff valve. This confirms what I thought. Now I have another question. I am including a photo of my P60 and the mount that I got from BTE. I do not see how this can mount on my turbine without a fair bit of work. Am I missing something here. The drilled holes on the aluminum bracket do not line up with the brackets on the P60, and one of the brackets are going to have to be bent. If this is the case, I would have just made my own. If you have pictures of your P60 install, I would greatly appreciate it. Also if you have a picture of your UAT mounted in the front cockpit area, I would appreciate that as well. A picture is worth a 1000 words.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
Here is where I have my UAT and fuel shutoff tap. I also have a servo controlled tap in the rear near the engine.
The ECU is in the rear also.
Regards
The ECU is in the rear also.
Regards
#959
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
f6hlct, unless I totally blew it, you should have also received a small packet with two aluminum hex-shaped rods, some screws, and a drawing with mounting instructions. The hex-shaped rods attach to the P-60 straps, and then the aluminum bracket is bolted to the hex rods. Here's a pic:
#961
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
I don't know how many people are doing this, but I am going to fuelproof in the boat tail, tank compartment and the next 2 forward. I'm not concerned about leaks as much as during routine maintanence spilling fuel in the fuse as I did on my F-15 this week. I'm glad I fuel proofed the inside as it all just wiped right out. I saw Barry did on his.
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
Thanks Bruce. Yes I apparently did get the parts, but I did not look far enough to bring all the parts together. It is all here, and now it makes sense. Thanks once again.
#963
RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
Guys,
I was wondering if anyone substituted a normal pushrod for the tube and cable arrangement. As was discussed earlier there is a slight amount of resistance in the cable. Maybe its nothing to worry about but I'm used to straight shots to the surface with a stiff rod and no play or resistance. It looks like it would be pretty easy to use a carbon fiber pushrod for the elevator. I'm at the point where I have to decide.
I know its a sport design but my wallet says it ain't.
I was wondering if anyone substituted a normal pushrod for the tube and cable arrangement. As was discussed earlier there is a slight amount of resistance in the cable. Maybe its nothing to worry about but I'm used to straight shots to the surface with a stiff rod and no play or resistance. It looks like it would be pretty easy to use a carbon fiber pushrod for the elevator. I'm at the point where I have to decide.
I know its a sport design but my wallet says it ain't.
#964
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
ORIGINAL: causeitflies-RCU
Guys,
I was wondering if anyone substituted a normal pushrod for the tube and cable arrangement. As was discussed earlier there is a slight amount of resistance in the cable. Maybe its nothing to worry about but I'm used to straight shots to the surface with a stiff rod and no play or resistance. It looks like it would be pretty easy to use a carbon fiber pushrod for the elevator. I'm at the point where I have to decide.
I know its a sport design but my wallet says it ain't.
Guys,
I was wondering if anyone substituted a normal pushrod for the tube and cable arrangement. As was discussed earlier there is a slight amount of resistance in the cable. Maybe its nothing to worry about but I'm used to straight shots to the surface with a stiff rod and no play or resistance. It looks like it would be pretty easy to use a carbon fiber pushrod for the elevator. I'm at the point where I have to decide.
I know its a sport design but my wallet says it ain't.
I have an exactly stock setup per Bruce's instructions with the cables. Works very well. She locks on a heading so I know it is returning to neutral just fine. I would think a pushrod would need supported someplace unless you're mounting the servos in the aft fuse section?
You might have too much solder wicked into the cable?
Dave Rigotti
#965
RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
Yeah Dave, right above the turbine mount between the formers would be a perfect spot for the servos But its almost a straight shot from the plan location to the elevator. I'll probably just use the tube and cut it back a little as I wicked about 2.25" of solder in instead of 2". Hey I can always rip it all apart if I don't like it, right? NOT! I've resisted changing anything so far so I'll go with it.
I should have my new radio soon too so I'm getting there.
I should have my new radio soon too so I'm getting there.
#966
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
Well, I finally broke down and bought my Reaction/Bee combo which arrived this week.
Bruce, Great manual and well produced and thought out kit. I love building and working with wood.
If I can just get the time required, I should have this kit built in a month. I hope to do a light weight
glass and paint job on the fuse and film the flying surfaces. I've been modifying kits since I was
a kid and mach1_RCU and Topgun2mo have some excellent ideas I will probably incorporate.
I really needed a good grass field jets and it was mach1-RCU mods and finish that helped me
make the decision to select the Reaction over the DV8R.
I have a number of on-hand retract/strut options available, just haven't decided which to use.
Has anyone used struts about 1"-1.5 inches longer than the plans designate, if so hows the handling?
Bruce, Great manual and well produced and thought out kit. I love building and working with wood.
If I can just get the time required, I should have this kit built in a month. I hope to do a light weight
glass and paint job on the fuse and film the flying surfaces. I've been modifying kits since I was
a kid and mach1_RCU and Topgun2mo have some excellent ideas I will probably incorporate.
I really needed a good grass field jets and it was mach1-RCU mods and finish that helped me
make the decision to select the Reaction over the DV8R.
I have a number of on-hand retract/strut options available, just haven't decided which to use.
Has anyone used struts about 1"-1.5 inches longer than the plans designate, if so hows the handling?
#967
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
myersflyers, I considered using struts, but am going with the stock wire gear..... primarily because of the good reports people have provided regarding the stock setup. If you go with longer main struts ..... then part of the former that is after/behind the nosewheel (when retracted) will have to be cut away....... (to allow for a longer nose strut).
Though I am using the stock wire setup ..... I am using regular/air brakes on the main wheels. Bob
Though I am using the stock wire setup ..... I am using regular/air brakes on the main wheels. Bob
#968
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
ORIGINAL: BalsaBob
myersflyers, I considered using struts, but am going with the stock wire gear..... primarily because of the good reports people have provided regarding the stock setup. If you go with longer main struts ..... then part of the former that is after/behind the nosewheel (when retracted) will have to be cut away....... (to allow for a longer nose strut).
Though I am using the stock wire setup ..... I am using regular/air brakes on the main wheels. Bob
myersflyers, I considered using struts, but am going with the stock wire gear..... primarily because of the good reports people have provided regarding the stock setup. If you go with longer main struts ..... then part of the former that is after/behind the nosewheel (when retracted) will have to be cut away....... (to allow for a longer nose strut).
Though I am using the stock wire setup ..... I am using regular/air brakes on the main wheels. Bob
Make per the plans. Many of us have proven the stock setup is fine.
"If it ain't broke......don't fix it!"
Dave Rigotti
#972
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
Regarding the nosewheel steering cable .......... Wondering what the best method/technique is of attaching the cables to the steering arm. Had planned on placing the cable through the hole and then looping it back around (and crimping a small piece of brass tubing to hold it). I am concerned that this small loop will rotate/kink as the strut retracts and then extends. Is there a better way ? Thanks. Bob
#973
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
ORIGINAL: BalsaBob
Regarding the nosewheel steering cable .......... Wondering what the best method/technique is of attaching the cables to the steering arm. Had planned on placing the cable through the hole and then looping it back around (and crimping a small piece of brass tubing to hold it). I am concerned that this small loop will rotate/kink as the strut retracts and then extends. Is there a better way ? Thanks. Bob
Regarding the nosewheel steering cable .......... Wondering what the best method/technique is of attaching the cables to the steering arm. Had planned on placing the cable through the hole and then looping it back around (and crimping a small piece of brass tubing to hold it). I am concerned that this small loop will rotate/kink as the strut retracts and then extends. Is there a better way ? Thanks. Bob
I'll assume your using the kit supplied strut...
I put a dab of silicone sealer on the loop and let it dry in the "gear down" position. This keeps those little buggers in place and from kinking.
Dave "got 82 flights on mine" Rigotti
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RE: Reaction 54 Jet Kit
Bob, I like to put a double loop through the steering arm and place the ferrule close to the steering arm(the cable passes throught the steering arm twice) so it can't loop around, but also I use the tie-wrap method to "spring the cables" out of the way when the gear retracts. That is one of the neatest tips I have ever seen on RCU. I think it was Todd Witcoff (lov2flyrc) that supplied that tip. I have tried it before with a loose loop and it would hang up all the time.