Xeller8

Dude...that thing is SWEET...so it not only protects against overheating but ALSO signal loss and low voltage?...that ROCKS....I may just have to look into one of those here soon....

As for the Titanium nitride gears?....well...I also have a set of Titanium drill bits here at my shop and they don't dull out near as fast as carbide or anything else and I'm sure it will help tremendously to ward off normal tooth wear...but I doubt it will make a difference when it comes to actually BREAKING teeth...(and yes..I sure did it right didn't I?..LOL!)...case hardened steel is about the only thing that would really make the diff. or even better yet SOLID Titanium...but then the gear would probably cost about 100 bucks...LOL!....but I think I may still order that set one of these days and see how well they hold up...

I just got back from Hobby town a little while ago and they had the Kyosho 46t spur gear that will fit..part #IF105....and I got an Ofna vented clutch bell part #10400...I had a nice surprise with the spur gear...they had it on clearance for 1/2 price so it only ended up being 16 bucks!...the clutch bell was 20 bucks which I thought was a tad bit steep but it also came WITH bearings...so...36 bucks to fix the carnage...not TOO awefully bad...at least I have immediate possession of the parts and can get my buggy back together right away...I also have a major facelift happening to it this weekend too....hehe!

WELP...I'm outa here....got a buggy to put back together...sure sucked to not be able to run it today as it was over 60 degrees...but I at least had some fun rippin around with my Volcano for a while this afternoon.....now it's getting cold and the wind is HOWLING...I guess winter is back in the plains again....UGH!

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

With all your money Scott.... whats another 30 bucks. You should be our tester. All the new parts that people think should work, send to scott. Let him buy them, and test them.
Let me know how you make out once all back together. And if you think its fast enough, we will race.

Xeller8

LMAO @ Dennis!......"All my my money"....HA!

Hey...I just took a hiatus from my main hobby for a while (women) and am redirecting the money to my Nitros...and to be honest...THIS hobby is CHEAPER!..LOL!.

This sucks though...I just figured out that we picked the wrong clutch bell...there was 2 choices and one is narrower than the other and looking at it while it was in the car it looked as though we had the right one but NOPE...the difference in them is only about 2-3mm but it makes the difference in whether it will work or not...so....back to Lincoln I go...there goes another 10 bucks in gas...D'OH!!...with my LHS being 45 miles away it's a damn good thing I get 25-30 MPG...but at least when I get back I can get this thing put back together.



Oh yeah...by the way...I'd be happy to be the Guinea pig and test for people..just buy the parts...send them to me and I will test them out and let you know if they work or not...O.K??

Buggygovroom

Well i can confirm that the entire front and rear suspension from a kyosho 7.5 will fit on these redcats with the kyosho support bar thing. As well as the front universal joints fit on the rear of the origional redcat suspension giving you front and rear universals. The center diff universals also fit but I dont have those in at the moment. Also small things like the fuel guard and center dif plate also swap. Wing and body, wheels, wheel hubs, bumper all swap as well.

I ordered an entire aluminum upgrade kit for the kyosho mp 7.5 for the front ant rear suspension since I have front and rear kyosho now. Hopefully i wont break those arms like i did the plastic ones

t2

Buggygovroom,
When you say suspension do you mean just the upper and lower arms with the hub-carriers and hubs or to you mean the whole diff housing with the other stuff too.

My first run with the venom smart temp didn't go so well. I'm not sure what went wrong but perhaps installing it in the box was not such a good idea. I think that while the thing was bouncing around the buttons might have gotten hit putting it into program mode. I had the temp limit set to 250 degrees, I killed the radio and the fail safe worked properly. I checked the temp reading and all was good so I started to wring its neck real good. The thing was running good with no hesitation on long straights, would idle for 15 or 20 seconds, loading up hardly at all. By my ear it was running almost perfect. I ran the whole tank through and when it quit I pulled the body off opened the battery box and the fail safe had recorded a max temp of 375 but had not shut her down. I word of caution, make sure you test it out at a real low temp like 200 before you put any confidence in the fail safe. The motor still feels good but I'm sure if I keep this up it will be junk soon! Anyway, I remounted the venom on top of the box and will try again tomorrow. It would be just my luck that I have a bad fail safe but we will see. I wonder if they make a fail safe fail safe for LOL.

Xeller8

IT'S ALIIIIIIIIIIIIIIVE!!

Got er back together and just did my final 2 heat cycles for break-in and she's holding together great so far!

I took some serious time and made the motor adjustable and it looks to be nice and square with the center differential now...I also set the gear mesh a bit tighter too..

Next run I'm gonna open her up and see what she's got!

Dennis...I'm ready to race now...think you can take her?

jcam54

xeller8 make shure to check your diffs regularly the new motor may be too much for the stock gear set up!!!!!!!!!
If possible you might want to switch to synthetic diff oil.

Buggygovroom

The wheel hubs switch no problem.. the lower arms individually wont. I took an entire front and rear suspension from a destroyed kyosho 7.5 and switched the whole front and rear suspension. Things that switch no problem are, rims, wing, wheel hubs, radio tray, front and rear universal joints, center diff, bumper, fuel guard, fuel tank. from what ive seen so far.

Xeller8

OMG!!

Just did my first REAL run and let me tell you guys....this thing is VICIOUS!!...it's so damn fast it scared me!....WEEEEEEEEE!!......LOL!!

John...the diffs in these XP's have a heavier silicon GREASE in them and metal gears...so I'm thinking they should be able to handle it...we'll see!

Xeller8

BACK IN BLACK!!

What do you all think of her new look??

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

Looks great scott.. The body looks familiar lol..

trpastor

Hey Guys -

I could use some suggestion on this. I got the upgrade shock tower for the front and am putting it back together, but the rods that go through the front diff case and then secure using a (forgive my description) a crimp washer, are no longer long enough to go through and show the grove where you have to secure the waser.

Does anyone know how you might do this (has anyone upgraded yet)?

Thanks

Buggygovroom

I would take the old one to the lhs and look for something slightly longer.. or go to a hardware store and look for "all thread" and secure them with nuts and a lock washer instead of those stupid e-clips.

trpastor

Hey Guys (and BGV)

I was looking on redcat and it looks like if you want to use the upgrade shock tower you have to get the upgrade... hang on.. gotta find it again here...

The aluminum fixing block for front upper arm

You could probably grind in the plastic one or also do what you mentioned BGV and find a longer bar or thread it and put a nut on it





New question - if the top of my cylinder (when I take off the cooling head) is dark brown, has it been run too hot?

trpastor

Hey Guys, what color scheme do you like best here?

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

I like the red or yellow. The blue ... yuck lol..

trpastor

Well boyz,

What da ya think... is she FRIED!!!?

I lost compression I guess and she died and wouldn't start and had some fuel spray. I looked and saw that one of the screws that holds the cooling head on was gone. So I too every thing off to have a quick look. I don't think this is healthy

Buggygovroom

Im not really sure, I remember my piston top on my old motor was an almond color and from what i heard thats normal. Not sure about that pic though. My problem was deeper at the bottom of the piston. It was chewed to hell. You have no compression at all?

Buggygovroom

What do you guys think of this paint scheme, I have a new body and waiting on this kind of paint to come in but im going to do the body like this with blue aluminum suspension and either blue or white rims/wing. Think it will look good? Its a chameleon blue purple paint that is supposed to shift color at certain angles.

trpastor

Hey BGV -

Here's about the best I could do with the chameleon paint, but maybe this will give you some idea of what you think and others

trpastor

Hey guys -

I think my engine may be shot and just in case what engines have we learned are a direct fit? I don't want to go through the trouble xeller8 had to

Anyone matched up an OS engine?

Xeller8

Oh come on Tim...where is your sense of adventure??...

Thats EXACTLY what happened to MY Infinity motor and thats exactly how it looked when I opened it up....my philosophy is that the head bolts were loose and it caused a lean condition even though it was set FAT...it gives you a false sense of security that it is tuned properly and even though once I discovered it I tightened the head bolts back down it was TOO late...once that happens it warps the head and you never get a good seal...

Buggygov found a motor that will drop right in...you will be "de-tuning" a bit if you go with it but it will still be quite fast...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXESC3&P=ML

Ya know...MY motor transplant really wasn't all THAT bad...the reason I was griping about it being such a pain is that I went into it with the mindset that the motor would just "drop in" and I would be back up and running in a matter of an hour or less due to the fact that they said it "would fit MOST 1/8 buggies"...but if you know upfront that there will be mods to do to make it fit properly and work it's actually kind of fun to see if you can do it...in my opinion thats part of the fun of owning these things...working on them...upgrading and doing mods to improve them...once you complete a task like my motor transplant and are back up and running better than ever there is a great sense of accomplishment and satisfaction and as far as the spur gear shredding...well...I have no one to blame for that but myself...if I would have taken everything off around the center differential the first time around so I had a clear view from all angles I would have better noticed that the motor wasn't sitting completely square and the gear mesh wasn't tight enough which brings me back to nothing more than being in a hurry...had I been prepared for what was ahead of me to make this engine work in my buggy and taken the time necessary to do it RIGHT the first time I would have thoroughly enjoyed it!

If you decide you want to try one of these motors it really isn't all that bad....especially now that you have someone who can step you through what you need to do to make it work in your buggy...I tell ya...it is an AWESOME motor for the money!

GOOD NEWS!...The weather has warmed back up here so I had the buggy out yesterday and she is runing BEAUTIFULLY....a buddy of mine was over to watch the NASCAR race with me and he was anxious to see her run and he was absolutely amazed at the speed this thing can achieve and how well it "de-thatches" grass....LOL!!....this whole week is suppose to be in the mid to upper 60's so I plan on running her quite a bit!

BTW...I like the color combo below....HEH!...and to answer your question in the P.M. you sent me...I started out with a Redcat..(just like the one in your pics above)...not a Himoto...Chubbysdad had the body for me....well...actually he had it for HIM and made the ultimate mistake of showing it to ME...LOL!!

redbull08

Buggy i just found out that my pull start is on back order and they dont know when it might come in. i was thinking it costs $30 for a pull start and 50 for the roto start i should just by the roto start. if i brake it again i am paying $10 more and who can say it wont brake again. the question i have is what back plate do i get? this sucks so bad to have it and not be able to get it on the road!! i cant even read the fourm right now just because i hate thinking its collecting dust right now. Thanks everyone for your input!!

trpastor

Hey Redbull.... yeah I would go with the rotostart then. Makes your ride a bit lighter too (not having the rope on there)

Mozzy got one put in. You might ask him what kind he got

Buggygovroom

You dont have to change the backplate, or bearing. with the hpi roto start its remove and replace. Only other thing you need with the roto start is a 7.2v battery pack. In my opinion i think it was worth it to switch to the roto start.

Oh and you need to grind a flat spot in the flange that holds the manifold to the block IF it bothers you that it wont sit flush after installing a roto start. if not it works the same except it sits a bit crooked.