JRSflyer

My Feedback: (8)

I recently bought a Goldberg Husky 400 ARF. The kit is great, went together easily, and looks great. I added a steerable tail wheel for ground control.

My question is the power needed. I have a Parks 400 (740) and a 9x6 prop. Will this be enough power? Do I need to get a 450 or a different 400?

Thanks for the input.

Rick

gniessen

My Feedback: (5)

I was thinking of using the Park 450 Outrunner (890KV). Seems like more motor then necessary, but would like to know what others are using. I am just trying to avoid the gearbox.

JRSflyer

My Feedback: (8)

I tried flying the husky with the 400 and a 9x6 prop and it would not get off the ground. I may need a different prop or the bigger motor. I think the 450 is a better bet.

Rick

gniessen

My Feedback: (5)

Did you have flaps down? And how many Amps do you think it is drawing?

JRSflyer

My Feedback: (8)

Flaps were up and I have no clue about the amps. I have flown glow for years so electric is new to me. I have only flown a GWS Tiger Moth electric up to now. It very well could be the operator. I have the 720 volt version of the 400 with a 3 cell 1500 lipo battery.

I want to avoid the gear box also.

Rick

gniessen

My Feedback: (5)

I talked to Kirk at http://www.newcreations-rc.com and he said the 400 with a 9x6 should fly it very well. From the specs he gave it should have been fine. I think he was using ElectriCalc to verify. The only thing he said was that 6 servos are more then you should run on the BEC. Though I am not sure if that is true given that they are micros. He recommending the Castle Creations Thunderbird 18, which says it is good for 4 standard servos at the 11v of a 3s Lipo.

Were you taking off from grass?

What kind of battery were you using?

JRSflyer

My Feedback: (8)

It was the vbattery. I did some battery research and the one I bought had half the maximum discharge compared to the new one I just got. The battery was a 3 cell 1500 LiPo with a max of only 8C. I do not have a separate BEC, and someone else recommended it for this plane. I am going to call Goldberg and ask them. I will let you know.

Rick

gniessen

My Feedback: (5)

I would have thought trying to pull more amps then it is rated for would damage the battery, not restrict you from doing it. But the pack may have an internal resistance that is doing just that. Let me know how it goes with the new pack.

Tribum

Don't make the mistake of trying to over power this little plane. It already has a high wing loading due to it's true 1:11 scale appearance. I made the mistake of starting off with a Park 480 and 2100mAh battery. It flew horribly at close to 16oz/sq.ft. I have since tried a number of different motor/esc/battery combinations and the clear winner is the AXI 2208/34 with a Jeti 8A ESC and 3S 810mAh Thunderpower battery. AUW now is 20oz which gives 13oz/sq.ft and 110W/lb. The plane flies beautifully on a 9x3.8 and can be flown agressively on a 9x6sf. The flaps are super functional and landings on snow (with skis) are a pleasure. I have a Hacker 20-26M, Thunderpower 1350mAh and Phoenix 25 on order for another plane but I will try them in the Husky first. I think this could well give the longer flying time I want along with phenomenal performance. Even with the AXI it does commendable aerobatics. Whatever you do don't go over 14oz/sq.ft..

gniessen

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the advise. I have a Park 450 and a 2100mAh pack. I can down size to a 1300mAh pack from another plane. I'll make sure not to add any more weight then necessary.

JRSflyer

My Feedback: (8)

I also thank you. I have a 450 I was going to use. I will stick with my 400 and wait for my new battery. With the Axi on sale I may just match what you have had so successfully.

Rick

Tribum

That is a good idea. The Park 450 will work but you will have to shift all the components as far back as possible and add another 2 to 3 degrees of down-thrust to the motor. My experience with the Husky is that with motors over 56g the nose drops as soon as you take off power regardless of trim or balancing, indicating that it is flying on the prop rather than the wing. With the AXI2208/34 and the specified balance point and throws it is a pleasure to fly which leads me to believe that this configuration replicates the design parameters. The Hacker 20-26M is actually lighter and puts out significantly more power. It should fly hands off at about 50% power giving flight times of about 12 to 15 minutes on a 1320mAh.

JRSflyer

My Feedback: (8)

how did you mount the 2208/34? Did you use a stick mount or build out the fire wall?

Rick

Tribum

I used a modified Steven's Aero A30-A20 radial stick mount. The stick is supposed to be 10mm x 10mm but mine was 8.5 x 9 so I added a light ply back plate which I bolted to the firewall with two 4-40 bolts. I also reinforced the stick by adding a small doubler on the firewall and first bulkhead because the cut out was for a 10x10 square and the stick was held in by random blobs of glue. I have since mounted five different motors by using different 1/16!QUOT! ply adapters.

If somebody would send me a PM of how to post photos I will post photos of the motor mount and landing gear mod. The 2mm landing gear wire is not adequate when the plane gets up to 26+ oz. You should be OK if you can keep it under 20oz but the 1.5mm music wire stays added very little weight and have survived some horrendous landings.

Tribum

Here are the photos of the motor mount and landing gear mod along with a photo of the Husky with the FMA Co-Pilot. Initially when I had the Park 480 and 2100mAh battery the Husky was impossible for me to fly without the Co-Pilot. As the weight dropped to below 21oz it was no longer necessary. The radial-stick mount is attached to the firewall with two 4-40 bolts with blind nuts from the back. The additional 1/16 mounting plate off the front was not needed for the Park 400 or 480 and may not be necessary for the Hacker A20-26M. It does however give a lot of flexibility for using different motors and playing with the thrust line of the motor. The 2-56 bolts at 12 and 6 screw into blind nuts on the front plate with carbon spacers. The bolts at 3 and 9 are nylon 4-40 threaded into the front plate to save weight.

The landing gear mod is 1.5mm music wire following the same profile as the primary LG but soldered at the axle and secured with very thin aluminum straps to the bottom of the fuse with #2x3/8 sheet metal screws. The bottom of the fuse is reinforced with a 1/2inch wide 1/16 lite ply laminated with a 1/2inch strip of carbon.

JRSflyer

My Feedback: (8)

Someone else suggested the 2212/20. If I am a slow fly guy that loves flaps would the 2208/34 be better?

Please let me know soon since the sale is over 4/31/06.

Tjhanks

Tribum

The 2212/20 is an excellent motor and would be a good choice for the Husky. The 2208/34 is lighter, less powerful and has a lower current draw which allows you to use a smaller battery. If you want it to float in gently with flaps the 2208/34 would be a better choice but the 2212/20 would give you better aerobatic abilities. As it is, without flaps at an altitude of 6500 the 2208/34 with a 9x6sf lifts off at full throttle in six feet.

JRSflyer

My Feedback: (8)

Wow. Thanks for the help. I may try both and use the other one my Beaver with floats. It needs more power than I have to get off the water.

Thanks

Rick