iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Guys, while on the "crushing firewall" subject, I have one other way of stopping that from happening also. That is to use blind nuts (if you can) that are the same depth as the firewall is thick along with a fender washer. With this setup, there is no way you will crush the wood even if you don't harden it with CA as the fender washer will bottom against the blind nut.

iflywhenican

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Anybody check out the new Roto 35 engine from RC Showcase? Looks impressive.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I agree, ifly, but I've used loctite on engine bolts into blindnuts.... guess what? When you try to REMOVE the bolts, the blind nuts start spinning or break their little claws off.... That's why I use REVERSED blind nuts with the flange on the rear of the firewall....

The very FIRST time I had to break out the Dremel, and grind screw heads off at the motor lugs, I learned about NOT using loctite with conventional blind nut installations. Of course, without LOCTITE, the screws loosened, so I ended up at square one.

That was how I arrived at using BLUE (non-permanent) Loctite with REVERSED blind nuts..... works pretty sweet. Solves the crushing on the BACK side.... but on the FRONT side, well.... that's where we are now.

BTW - Only reports I have heard on the Rotos is "low on power for the massive weight"..... but that's heresay and not first hand experience!

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Ben,

I hate to bust your bubble. If you are talking about the Roto35vi then yes, it's impressive but somewhat heavy. I had one last season with the supersonic muffler and a bambula 20X8 prop and although very quiet was not the best thing for power.

It was in a Kangke Cap232 that RSC was selling as a package deal and it came in at 14 lbs which itself is very borderline for a 35cc engine. Total weight with the mounts/ignition/muffler and 1100mah battery and switch was just over 4.5 lbs which is heavy for a 35.

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

thanks again for the suggestions,,, My motor was vibrating so bad (due to choke pulled on through flight) that the antenna vibrated out of the tube it was in i noticed last night,, good thing i had my crystal taped huh.. She will be back though. Better , stronger and (with choke off) more powerfull.[8D]

iflywhenican

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Here's the site for the "NEW" and "IMPROVED" Roto...so they say. I don't like the Roto's myself. A friend had one and it never ran right even after a couple trips back to RCS. Don't know about the new one's coming out.

http://www.rcshowcase.com/html/engines/roto35.html

Aerobob...to keep the "spinning" blues away from the blind nuts when using locktite on the bolts, I always put a smidgeon of Gorilla glue on the lugs, spikes and around the "face"?? of the blindnut before I seat them in. I've never had a problem of them moving around when I loosen the bolts by doing that. I even stripped the threads out of one and it still didn't spin. I love that stuff...[sm=thumbup.gif]

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Ifly,

That is the same roto35 I had. While a nice looking engine, they are heavier when everything is added. The weight they list is engine only and already heavier than most 50cc except for 3W

Nice idea using Gorilla glue, I never gave that a thought [sm=thumbup.gif]

mwhar760

My Feedback: (18)

useing red loctite is ok if you donot want to ever remove it after you install it if you have a da or similar standoff mount you can drill all the way thru the standoff and go to a bolt supplier and get bolts long enough to go all the way thru 4 bolts versus 8 use blue loctite and double nut them, as far as the wood crush due to the tightening of the bolt's you can either cut 1 and 1/8 squares and epoxy them to the front and rear where engine mounting bolts are going to be there for spreading out the load on the area and eliminate crush effect,i used this idea with b&b soft mounts and never ran into this problem? just another idea to pass along??

mwhar760

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does anyone know of a place to get a good scale to get a accurate weight to weigh a plane?up until now i have neverthought i needed one?

mwhar760

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chuck the winds totally sucked when i got home over the weekend i'm trying to locate a good set of scales and will let you know
mike

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Mike,

This is the one I use. Seems very accurate and not a bad price. Just do a search on Google for Escali scales and you may be able to find someone that has one closer to where you live. It does operate on a 9 volt battery or with the included A/C adapter

http://www.shiptheweb.com/Gifts/Prod...L-2D3315W.html

Escali scales are consider by many to be among the best. I've verified mine with Fromeco batteries and they show the correct weight as mentioned on the batteries plus took my Ultimate to a UPS shipping scale and it matched within one ounce at 16.5 pounds

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Bill - I have the Brison installed, arrived today. Those things are just works of art, shameful to cover with a cowl. Anyway - it has the "non CH" ignition on it, and mechanical advance. Most folks agree to give it a go, since it WAS working for the previous owner. Called Brison, talked with Harvey, and he confirms that "they work" (the ignitions), and recommended to just run it.

So it's all on there, and I'll run it tomorrow. Lost 10 oz in the conversion and maybe gained some power ??

I did the drill holes/insert toothpicks/ca firewall reinforcement, because I'd never done it. VERY slick. When I snugged up those mounting bolts it was SOLID. I mean "no spongy" feeling when tightening up against the blind nut.

Can't wait to "remaiden"..... back about 60 pages or so, I remember changing on Ult. # 1.... the Brison 2.4 was too puny, went to the BME 50... holy cow. This one, the Fuji 50EI just wasn't gonna make it, either.... so it's finding a new home, and the Brison 3.2 is on the nose.

I think truth be told, this is a 50 cc biplane, period. I think bubbagates said that a page or so back.... he's right!

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Bob,

They sure are pretty engines. Yep, it's a shame to cover them up

Go here and read about the "S" stamp and what to do with the needles. It starts at the link below and goes 5 or 6 posts down

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4056110

Basically it says if you have the "S" stamped by the fuel inlet start both needles at 1 1/4 and tune as needed. Gary stated that he usually ends up at 1 turn on both needles. I started right out at one turn and I have not touched the needles since

Your gonna like that engine. I'd use a MSC 22X8. RCShowcase has them for $27.00. They are 80 miles from me so I can get overnight shipping for the cost of ground shipping. Kinda cool

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I second Bubbagates...

The Escali is a decent brand a pretty darn accyarte (this whole digital tech is really getting down to a science)

I have a 6 lb moel I use for most weighing... accurate within a gram (or if not certainly close enough for weighing frog hairs)

The on Bubbagates shows is vvery nice too... I will be picking myself one up too for weighing compelted planes... as it is I've been weigning "halves" to get the total weight. Then I use a shipping scale that reads out in 1/4 lb increments to check.

This scale is MUCH better. At $40 it's a good deal too... Now... on E-Bay you can get the same scale for $5 more shipped so watch what the place Bubbagates sent ya charges for the shipping...

See here:

[link=http://cgi.ebay.com/Escali-Digital-Scale-33-lb-15kg-Dark-Grey_W0QQitemZ7531478020QQcategoryZ11814QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem]Escali 33lb Scale[/link]

thevirginian

One more comment to the srew issue: What always works for me is this: I drill my holes thru the fire wall slightly smaller than the screw diameter. Then I use the screws as a tab and end up with very tight fitting screws. Using nylon lock nuts on the inside of the motor box guarantees an always tight motor mount without the use of LocTite.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

And here's my install. Pics of the deformation of the soft firewall, then the "pinning" around the new clearance-fit holes for the Brison install, then the install itself, showing the hardwood, nylon-thread-wrapped-with-CA standoffs....cheap, light, very strong.

Today is test runs!

Thanks for the ideas, guys!

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I do the undersized hole trick as well...

Still... many of these "new generation" ARFs are using multiple layers of Liteply as a firewall and it just doesn't have the density ot hold up to the compression, leverage or vibration of gassers. (or big glows for that matter).

*****ing the area about 1" around the holes with a heavy pin and seaping thin CA in there to hard it up is a simple and effective method. I've also been known to cut 2"x 1/8" aircraft ply washers and epoxy them in place on one or both sides. This really has proven effective as well but adds maybe 1/4 oz overall...

I see that Aerobob has posted just prior to me....

His method is QUITE excellent. A ittle labor intensive, but not bad and seems like it would be the endall. Gotta love this forum stuff for learning and sharing!

Great work Aerobob!

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

aerobob,
Are you using a stack of wood washers for spacers, that is what it looks like from the pictures. If so, I'm a little concerned about them compressing after the engine has run a while, particularly if they are a soft wood. I've use 1" diameter oak dowel successfully with a hole drilled down the middle. The compression is with the grain. Hate to see you have a problem again.

mwhar761,
Sorry about the the winds, thanks for letting me know.

Chuck

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Yeah, the wood washers do kinda defeat the purpose of pinning around the holes! Go to Ace hardware and get some aluminum or glass-reinforced nylon spacers.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Aerobob...you are gonna love that engine choice and it will be awhile before we hear from you again because you are not going to want to quit flying it.
You can get nylon spacers that work perfect at Lowe's. I used them and I think that Bill did also.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Yep, I sure did. Nice and cheap and have been really holding up well.

bluestratos

I made a spacer by making a piece of hardwood (top and bottom) that was laminated with 1/8 aluminum on the face. These are glued to the firewall at the center of the top and bottom standoffs. The aluminum spreads out the load and looks cool of you polish it.

I see alot of you have your servos on the firewall, are you not having problems with this? My engine (DA 50) says not to mount any radio components within 10-12" of the ignition box.

Regards,

Randy

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

WOW, you have a talking engine? Cool...

My DA doesn't say anything but "Fly me"


Seriously though... it is a good idea to TRY and seperate the reciever connected items from the ignition connected items as much as possible.

While hte current modern ignitions are well shielded and will often range test with the these thing almost touching... the issue is IF a little wear spot develops somewhere... the closer the items are the smaller that "chink in the shielding" can be before it starts to cause issues.

The DA ignition box is a polymer... but you'll notice the purdy shiny paint job... that's notthere to be purdy... but it the shielding... if that becomes worn off the case, then you COULD have an RF leak that will cause you some pains... if you are 10"+ away, it may not pickup a monir leak... but if your 2" away?

Well.. some will argue that it won't make any difference. But it's just good practice if you CAN keep them seperated.... In many of the planes today, to balance requires as much pushed forward as possible and this isn't always possible. In which case you range check often.

We really should be range testing more than we do for this very reason.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Guys, give me a "little" credit for a brain.... I buy hardwood turned "spools" in various lengths, harden them with CA, wrap them with nylon thread, and ca coat the nylon thread. Harder than oak dowels, and lighter by a fair bit. If they compress, it will be due to the crash............

Don't remember when someone got me onto those thread spools, but they are available at Wally World and LOTS of craft stores. They cost nearly nothing, and are easily made into "custom lengths".... these are 7/8" diameter....

ifly - I'm planning on running this one a bit....you can count on it.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Fair enough. It is hard to tell that you did anything by the picture. It sounds like you should be fine.