matt57

Hi all, I justed wanted to get some information about the LST2. I am seriously considering buying this monster truck, but I have some questions.

I have been into the electric stadium truck scene for a while now, and I am a member of a race track. I have never owned or operated a nitro powered RC before, but have done a lot of research on how to maintain and tune a nitro vehicle and so on. My first question is, because I am still ultimately a beginner, does the LST2 come with enough documentation to educate a novice on how to operate the truck properly? Does it include tuning advice, and tips on how to solve common problems?

Also, after searching the inventory of horizon hobby, I noticed they have a HUGE variety of hop-ups for the LST2. I mean you could basically upgrade almost every plastic piece to aluminum. So without spending money on things that I really don't need, what would you consider to be "must have" upgrades? I heard the spindles and the A-arms should be replaced because they seem to break for everybody, but is there anything else that should be replaced out of the box? Because I'm a racer, I would also be interested in the forward-only conversion.

I was actually quite astonished to see all the hop-up's that Horizon Hobby offers. Aluminum rollcage, shock towers, front/rear bumpers, bulkheads (with seperate braces), shift/brake arm sets, engine support brace, upper and lower arms, rear hubs, C-hubs, etc, etc, etc.....

As much as I would like to "bullet proof" my next RC, all those upgrades seem kind of unneccesary. Can somebody please give me some advice?

Thanks for your time

-Matt

Mable

Nothing compares. "Ready to race"

mikewoodkozar

save the spindles and the engine chassis brace, the aluminum is only for bling and is a complete waste of money

I have a video i just shot this weekend of me jumping my LST2 twenty plus feet into the air, backflips, nasty crashes and all, and i have yet to break a suspension arm.

The only thing that is really needed are the spindles and an aftermarket engine chassis brace.

bauerbach

aluminum weighs more than plastic.

and obviously costs more.

on a long enough timeline it is perhaps possible that you could replace a plastic part enough times to eventually eclipse the cost of an aluminum upgrade. but thats really not something to be concerned with.

generally all you want is a truck that is reasonably capable of completing a 20minute main; and being repairable within an hour or so that you have between qualifiers if something does go wrong.

and as mikewood said; the spindles and engine brace are it.

the a-arms are a hit or miss, Ive broken 0, and some have broken 10... but you'll replace them with plastic RPM arms, which is a lateral move for weight; so not really any downside other than cost.

as for ease for a beginner; I ran nitro planes a tiny bit. I say tiny because I never got to the point of flying solo. I never broke in an engine by myself; I never ran a nitro engine by myself. I knew the basic principles though. I wont say Im a pro at dialing in a tune; but I havent blown my engine either. its a sturdy engine; the instructions are adequate, and for the rest theres very helpful people on here and lstcentral.com that will help with the rest.

matt57

In the rcuniverse review of the LST2, the guy said he encountered a problem and I don't know what it is he is actually talking about. He said "I did have a couple of minor issues. One involved a grub screw for the rear transmission drive yoke backing out, leaving me with only front wheel drive"

Where is this grub screw located? If it's not too much trouble, can someone post a picture?

hunter306

I had the same grub screw back out... Took like 15 seconds to screw back in.

It is located on the cup right outside of the center gearbox.

mikewoodkozar

yeah that could happen on any truck though! blue thread lock will be your new best friend

bauerbach

see the thread up top, about threadlocking.

no pics, its a .20cent screw that doesnt get threadlocked at the factory all the time. in this case, knowing is 99% of the battle. 5sec with a driver and threadlock and that "issue" is fixed.

hard to call it an issue when its so simple.

I mean, if you want to talk issues, try the tranny on for size, that will be an issue if it goes wrong. I never had to worry, I tore all that garbage out of there before it could think of becoming an issue.

matt57

lol, So I take it that the 'Forward Only Conversion' is the golden way to to go? Is it common for the forward/reverse tranny to mess up?

bauerbach

I dont know if its common. tough to put it into perspective. we see a tiny snapshot of the total group here. any only the problems speak up.

Ill say this. IF your truck were tohave a problem; than your problem would most likely be the transmission.

furthermore, if you can live without reverse; and low gear is useless. the FOC is the best 30$ you can spend on the LST, for far more reasons than just to avoid a chance of an issue.

Vespah

Here is the link to RCU's review.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=676

I know this as well as a couple other reviews they did helped me alot on a couple vehicles I have.

gtsum

FOC is the only way to go. My lst2 out of the box would not stay in forward gear..the forward/reverse was all jacked up and I could not tell if I was in hi or low range (low range seems like a joke to me...the truck has more then enough power...not sure whey they put a lo range in there). I installed the FOC before 1 tank of fuel was through it....I had the tranny opened up for the first time in 6 months the other day (cleaning). The tranny is about bullet proof, especially compared to my revo's tranny....the revo instructions and beginner info are definately head and shoulders above the lst2 stuff, but that should not be your deciding factor...if the lst2 is what you like, get it....you will not be sorry - great truck with very good electronics out of the gate....I would get the following right way:

Dynamite Engine Brace - stock one will break right away
Spindles - prone to breaking if you hit something at a bad angle
A Arms - I had went months without breaking any...then, in one day, I broke 8 of them....go figure
FOC - as mentioned above

You will be good to go after that......good luck!

Chronic

Is anyone going to mention the clutch? Or have you guys found a set of shoes that last longer than a gallon and an off the shelf bell that lasts longer than two gallons? Clue me in on it please, because my clutch is becoming an "issue"

gtsum

most all clutches will wear out around a gallon or 2...I use mugen or nova shoes with mugen springs on mine

oldshoolclod

this is my first nitro buggy and i can tell you all the others are now shelf queens!!! i love my LST2!!!!!!!!!!!!!
took it to our local BMX track on sunday. what a blast!!! i was clearing jumps like soooooooooooooo easy and the landings weren't so graceful!!(my shel is proof of that!!) did evenually get the hang of the jumps, and could not stop!!! man it is a joy to play with big toys!!!

BTW, the only upgrades i got are the rollbars and yellow shocks, nothing else!!!
just go over all the screws that go into meal to make sure they ae locktited, especially your wheels!!!!(don't ask!!)

beauman

hi my name is beau and i was wondering what is the biggest engine you can put it the LST2

THANKS

gtsum

Any Big Block engine 28-32 will fit fine with NO mods necessary - the 30 and 32 engines (for the most part) are going to give you a lot of torque with OK top end - the 28's will (again, generally speaking) give you more runtime, and a more linear powerband with a better top end)

ASYSTEMERROR

I considered the LST2 but at the markup of say close to 300$ over the aftershock, you have to consider the only real upgrade that you get is the stuff behind the wheels !
don't get me wrong their are other things but those are things that differ to what you use the truck for. lets say pull start and easystart , the OWB will go out on both so you won't be starting anything.
mine lasted to the end of engine break-in, and the tranny most people want the forward only conversion, the LST 2 wheels are better and somehow the engine is better but it's the same size from what i'm
told. so talley up the stuff you want on the truck add it too the price of the aftershock and if it's more get the LST 2 ! my aftershock was put together buy an ass and had a bad carb. but if the truck is in order
it's the best MT hands down losi make solid stuff.

Starven4

I have a LST2 with the no reverse upgrade. I have a few extras that come along. I have hardly used and never raced the truck. I am trying to sell because I don't have time to invest in keeping up with the truck. If you are interested contact me at [email protected]

IL2mSturmovik

I have seen and been around most nitro MTs.
The Team Losi trucks are undoubtably the best.
Anyone who bashes with us really dig their Losis.
The ones who dont own a Losi MT, want one.

full maxx

yesh just the spindles (broke three plastic ones now allum. no prob) and the engine brace ........lst2 i've been through 8 gallons everything else is good to go just starting on a new engine and its the 427 off a muggy

HpiDrifter420

i have a lst2 and it is by far one of the best rtr Mt's out. i wouldnt put any aluminum on this thing to slow it down this truck is a beast. you wont regret this purchase.

IL2mSturmovik

No alum will go on mine, the stock parts are cheap, light, and quite durable.
Now, mid November when Flextec will have Ti arms for it, I MAY get those

jonnymobil

so what is the "rear engine chassis brace" and why do those need replaced.i am thinkning of gettng an lst2 alos and id like to have all the stuff i will need allready here when i go to pick up the truck.and also how much is the hub spindles and do i need front and rear or just the front.and what type of engine chassis brace do i need.

IL2mSturmovik

http://www.killerhobbies.com/items/l...14b-detail.htm
Dynamite Engine Support Brace (Blue) LST,LST2,AFT - DYN7214B
About $14