lucasdon17

I tried removing the Fly wheel to check the front engine bearing , but i guess i need some special tool to take off the fly wheel. Has anyone tried taking this off...looks like my regular tools wont come handy.

Any suggestions pl

lucasdon17

I guess the battery terminal puller is goin to do the job. Its around $ 5 in the auto store.

mitch46701

well the wheels on the photos in my garage didnt work out due to lack of power from the tiawan .18 so i traded them to the neighbor for a set of dirt hawgs from proline as fas as fuel tank well mine busted to i went to hobby shop found one close and made it fit

jguitarsandcars

Well, I'm in the middle of rebuilding my engine now and it took me some hard looking and some thinking to get that darned fly wheel off...The threaded piece that holds your clutch and eclip has something equivelent to RED Lock-Tight...it's a permanant thread locker, so it's tough...Also if you look at the edge of the flywheel there is a hole going towards the center...Stick an Allenwrench in there (I forget, but the biggest that fit is either 2 or 2.5 MM) then use either a deep socket wrench or I used the 1/8 scale wrench that came with the starter pack on the nut...hold the allenwrench for leverage, then take off the nut...Once again, that was a bit tough, but it did come loose without breaking my allenwrench...

nitro_racer_1

My Feedback: (2)

another way if all else fales is to take the upper plate off the chassis (so u have room), and bolt the motor down and stick a screw driver up therw the flywheel hole in the bottom of the chassis and push it hard against the flywheel and then try breaking the nut free, its alot of work, but it usually works

lucasdon17

Well..i have successfully taken off the fly wheel. It was tough .

My aim is to take off the front bearing and replace. Now that i have taken off the flywheel..i am not sure how to take off the bearing. It does nt seem to slide off or easy to take off.

This is the first time ever i have taken these things apart. So pl bear with me guys !!

Do i need to take more things apart before i get to remove this bearing..?

Without taking too many parts out..cant i just use some seal around the bearing and put all the flywheel etc back ??

If any steps or snaps of procedures...will be of great help.

jguitarsandcars

I don't know, I tore my entire engine down to seal it while I was at it anyway...And I couldn't get the bearing out without the risk of breaking it, so I just cleaned them in the crankcase and oiled them up...

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

the way I usually remove engine bearings is to heat the engine in the oven, and stuff the crankshaft in through the front of the engine, put a little sideways pressure on it, and pull like a ****.

nitro_racer_1

My Feedback: (2)

yeah the only way is to heat up the crank case cuz there pressed in

lucasdon17

HI Guys
I have just not been able to take off the front bearing from the engine. I tried heating in the oven ..nothin worked. I knw for sure that there is a leak and it needs to be changed. Even if i get a new bearing , now i am not sure how to remove and change it.
More bad news is..the screws of the back plate dont seem to grip my screw driver too well. Its chipping out.

Pl help me out. I have taken all apart and now i am not sure how to get it fixed.

Any photos to help, any steps to get it done.

I really need some help here guys !!
Thank you

jguitarsandcars

I had a hard time with that...I was trying to find all Socket head cap screws to replace all the screws on the car, but couldn't find the exact size I needed for the back plate (could have ordered online, but I thought the engine would be together before now)...I went down to the local ACE hardware and bought 8 (to have an extra set) of 2.5 by whatever the length is of slotted head cap screws...My reasoning for that was that I felt I could get more toque on a standard flat head that small than I could on a philips. I was also stripping them out trying to get them out and I just ended up grabbing them with a pair of pliers and just twisting by the outside of the head...came off easily, and since I was replacing them, I didn't care about chunking up the screws (just wanted to be careful with the aluminum back plate

lucasdon17

HI jguitarsandcars , Hi All

Man ..i am goona rename my buggy after u .!! Thanks. I was able to get back plate off. But still the bearing is stuck. 300 degrees in the oven and the sucker is still sittin in there mocking at me !

I still did not get what u were saying abt the Ace hardware screw type that u managed to get. Pl do let me knw.

thanks again

chubbysuncle

You need to find an arbor press. First get new bearings. Once you're sure they're the ones you can use a socket to drive them out or find someone with an arbor press to push the old out and the new in. Extra care MUST be used pressing the new ones in so they don't get damaged. Put it this way, the amount force to get them out is going to be the same amount of force to get them in. How bad are they? Is there alot of side to side play or are they just weeping some fuel? They're not 100% sealed bearings and some weepage is OK. I mean for $80 you can get a new Redcat engine from Clermont or for $120 a topend .18 that'll have some more power.

jguitarsandcars

I forget, but I thought he had a Japanese Engine already...
OK...If you have a LHS, go there with the stripped backplate, pull start, and the Head screws, go to the LHS and match the length to the Du-Bro socket head cap screws (the traditional allen wrench type)..The back plate and pull start are 2.5MMx either 8 or 10mm long, the head uses 2.5mmx15mm long Du-Bro p/n 2119...If you don't have a LHS (I believe you can get these online at Tower Hobby), or if time is an issue, go to the local old school hardware store (ACE, True Value, etc...) NOT LOWE'S or HOME DEPOT, and try to match up these sizes...My local hardware store didn't have the allen head, but did have the traditional slotted ones (not philips head)...I prefer the allen head ones for torque and less likely to strip, but I believe this small that the slotted ones will still be better than the philips head....

lucasdon17

Hello chubbysuncle
What i have now is a .18 engine which is giving me all these issues.
When i try to prime the engine closing the exhaust, it does not prime. I changed the fuel lines and yet nothin happened. Then i prime by putting in some fuel through the carb opening to prime and noticed the fuel dripping down.

I took the engine out and inserted the fuel tube through the carb and blew through it and noticed that there was leak in the front bearing near the inner ring . I guess this is what was causing all the issue.

HOw much leak is is ok.?? Is this why i am not able to prime the engine the usual way.? Also..i am having a tough time keeping the engine running.

chubbysuncle

Did you check the fuel tank for leaks? I was having the same problem with the buggy. I pulled the pressure line off the exhaust and blew in it gently to prime the carb. My ear was right next to the fill cap and I could here air blowing right out around it. O ring looked fine. The .18 on the Volcano weeps around the front bearings but it doesn't seem to affect the engine running. The Volcano started getting harder to prime and I checked all the exhaust connections and did the blow in the line test and THAT tank is leaking aroud the fill! [:@] I'd check all the other stuff before accusing those bearings. After you get it started does it run well? Or does it start to run hot and lean out and stall? I know that with 2 strokes leaking crank seals will cause bad performance and hard starting( if you can get it to run at all) because the engine leans out too much. These little nitros have no reed valves and crank seals to speak of, The pullstarter shaft is just in a bronze oilite bearing. I really don't think a leak at the front bearings will cause loss of exhaust pressure. You've got a leak in the exhaust or the fuel tank/ lines.

jguitarsandcars

Lucas, did you try Sealing the engine with the RTV when you took it apart?

jguitarsandcars

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4562468/tm.htm

Lucas Check this out...I found it tonight on the engine thread...A guy asked about leaking front bearings...
Josh

lucasdon17

Hi
Its tough to start the engine. I have to stroke it nearly 25 odd times to get it up and when i throttle is it up , it dies . I guess its just leaning out. There is no way i can get the car to run fast..i can just spin it in a snails pace...Minis will beat me !!

I am yet to seal the engine. I have got this Permatex copper which i think shuld do the job. But my big issue is the leak. I will check again for any leak near the tank.

jguitarsandcars thanks for the link.

Thanks guys.

jguitarsandcars

No problem Bro...

lucasdon17

Hi Chubbysuncle Hi All

I can hear the air hiss out near the top of the tank when i blow through the fuel line that goes to the exhaust, closing the other fuel line.

Is this purely due to the O ring or just that the tank has be replaced. I am goin to seal the engine and try it out again.

thanks

Chubbysdad

My Feedback: (1)

ahhh same thing happened to chubbysuncle. The oring was bad. He never had luck finding another oring and replaced the tank.

chubbysuncle

I just got the new fuel tank today and put it on. I ripped the old one apart and I believe I found the source of the leak. It may not be the O ring. If you remove the tank lid and remove the screw holding the Oring there's a plastic disc that comes out. The O ring is actually on this piece. The screw goes into the center of the lid where the exhaust pressure line connects. ANYWAY... there is no gasket or seal between the plastic disc and the tank flip lid. I tried a couple of things to seal that area but I think some rtv silicone might do the trick. I put a small bead around and reassembled the center disc. You can't tighten the center screw alot cause it just strips. The new tank also leaked alittle and I snugged the center screw and it sealed. I tried a thin oring to seal the old one at first but you can't tighten the screw enough to compress the Oring. I'll let you know how the repair works this weekend. I'm letting it cure good for a day before I put the lid back on the tank. I'll put it in the buggy and see how she goes!

lucasdon17

Great.
WIll have an eye for ur reply.

thanks again

nitro_racer_1

My Feedback: (2)

hey all, got some new jato wheels on my buggy
check it out;