rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Jon I don't think any one will say it can't be done, but if you put your fuse plan on a wall, sketch in you full body pilot, move the floor, reposition servos, sketch in a 32 oz tank, (tank shown did not match the square I purchased and did not use) locate, your receiver, locate the retract valve and servo, you will see there is not much for a smoke tank of any size as most every thing has to be on or a head of the C/G so you will have to add a minimum of nose weight maybe up to 12oz.

You will just have to do allot of home work and have all of your parts in hand.

Don't let it intimidate you


Cheers Bob T

cimara

Jon i dont know how to do this but its an idea . maybe you coud put the smoke pump in one drop tank and put the smoke fluid tank in another one next to the first use quik disconnects so you can remove them if you want heres a pic of a corsair with two drop tanks . just an idea but you wouldnt have to worry about rome inside the plane

cimara

i cant get the pic to work so heres the page its on http://www.fleetairarmarchive.net/Aircraft/Corsair.htm

cimara

what kind of glue did you all use to glue the air tank in i cant find silicone glue find plenty of selant thats silicone . thought about using gorilla glue but i might need to remove the tank later it it ever starts leaking

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Cimara thats a great idea, but lots of plumbing




Cheers Bob T

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Cimara go to your local home inprovement center in the selant section you will find a G/E product that is an adhesive and caluk, I used there white, you just have to let it set for about 12 hrs befor handling and I would not use gorila glue.


Bob T

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Cimara,
I used clear silicone got it at Home Depot,but if you want to eliminate all the lines & tank take a look at www.lado-tech.com its an alternative

George

RCPILOT78

HEy guys let me run this past you.....I am going to mount all my retract equipment down inside the center section of the wing....there is plenty of room there..I have done this to all of my war birds that have retracts....If you are useing a retractable tail wheel you run your air tube back to it off of a tee fitting...looking at the wing plans even the air tank can be mounted there..than you only have one air line to hook up which is the line to the tail wheel....the skin over the top of the center section is merely balsa it is not a structural component...just remove enough top balsa skin and make mounts for the servo and actuator in that center location..If I can do this on 60 size planes it can easily be done on the G/S planes..all of the plumbing is in the wing..

Doolittleraider

My Feedback: (72)

I just started building mine I am on the tail section.......wolf what canopy did you use? Also what how did you paint yours and get that sun bleached look it looks great?
Peter

mark21

Good evening gentlemen..I have a question that's been bothering me for sometime now. I purchased a Topflite GS Corsair awhile ago. I've been working on it here and there, whenever I've got the time for it. I went with the Topflite recommended engine size (US41cc). I see a number of individuals have decided to use the G62 for a power plant instead. I plan on glassing and using latex for finishing. A minimal attempt at panel lines will be attempted. Robart retracts installed as well as the Topflite cockpit kit, and that's about it folks, as far as goodies go. I'm really not interested in aerobatics, i.e. rolls, loops, etc.. I would just like this bird to chug through the pattern without too many unforeseen aerodynamic surprises. What do you think?

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

See my post #1010 a few pages back...

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Dolittleraider nice to have you hear in thre thread, I am not wulf ,but if you check out his hellcat thread, as I remember he gives agood detiled discription of how hee does it. Sorry on't have the post # for you



Mark21, I agree with zeeb on th engine for this bird. Little story a sister clubhas had a coupla of these with, i was just filmed to get it done, the outher was glased (first timer)first one weightright 20 lbs secound one was at 28+,,,,Firdt bird flew fair as long as you kept the speed up, when slowed down it like to snao the leftt(Isaw it fly once,was not clean a n crisp) Secound one a bear that ckub has an 859x75 asfalt runwat, with well kept over runs on both endds, he started back about 20 ft from end of assfult, and he was off about 3"as he cleared the outher end of the runway, At this point I had to leave did not get a good look at the flight ,as we were driving out to the hiway we saw it made 2circuts around the field, and hesrd for landing, both birds were taken home, one now has a hopped up G-62, flys at about 1/3 to 1/2 throtle, the outher has some kind of sacs in it I have not seen it sence frist flite.



Cheers bobT

Jon72286

Hi all, thanks for the idea with the drop tanks. I really want to put somke on this bird. I think it will make it look so much more amazing in the skies. I was wondering what servos you guys would recomend for this bid. I know that you need a high torque servo on all control surfaces. I have been looking all over the web to find a good one but there are so many. Some people say Hitec, others say JR, and some say futaba. I am coing to guide my giant with a JR XP9303. What a great radio. I just picked one up the other day at Akhiabara (The electronics capital of the world and also the the largest number of RC shops in Tokyo about 36 shops in all!!!!!!) It is great because you can set it up for easy flight in a 40 size sport flyer, giant scale complex warbirds or for crazy 3D aerobatics. I got the transmitter, synthesized module (NO CRYSTALS!!!!!!!), a 10 channel scan select reciever, and a Metal case from JR for it. No I just need to find the right servos for the control surfaces and good smaller ones for everything else. Let me know what you guys are using in yours and what you all found works best. Happy building and Flying.

Petty Officer Jonathan P. Green

dont you guys all think that gavity is a B*%^$. My buddy lost a plane this week. Oh well, time for another build!!!!

duber3

Hi everybody!!

Just starting building the wing, I've read on the topflite web site, in the review section they said that
the ribs that's hold the retract is'nt strong enough, here the text from the review :

" I have had a lot of failures with the hardwood rail mounts on retractable landing gear, so I was really surprised to see that the plywood ribs for the rail mounts were just butt-glued to the spar. I would have liked to have seen indexed notches into the spar for maximum strength of design."

Is it true??? do i need to put some wood dowel in the ribs[sm=confused.gif]??

thanks!!

Doolittleraider

My Feedback: (72)

I just read that same review. That guy from rcmodeler pretty much dogged the manual esp with the wing construction. The way I look at it sometimes the designers may actually know what they are doing and I am going to build it as per the manual (imagine that!). I also spoke to Gary Webb who has built a load of warbirds not to mention this one and he said the same. No problems on his (see rcwarbirds marine's dream) as well as the begining of this post. I fly the pattern and scale manuveurs so I will sleep well at night. I am going to finish rudder this weekend and then on to the wing. I am right behind you man! Best of luck and let me know what you decide. Any others out there flying this corsair your input is greatly appreciated!

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Guys,
When I did mine the wood for that area (in my opinion) was not of good quality so what I did is made up new ribs out of ply and doubled them up and added dowels for additional strength, when it came to the rails I replaced the stock one with oak of the same size and added blind nuts in the appropriate locations for the retracts to screw into. it may be an overkill but at least I know I got the strength where needed.
George

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi guys

I will add as I have built 2 of these birds my first was right off of the plans, but only got 6 landings so when I did this new one I made some mods I added 3/32 a/c ply to the gear box ribbs, and because I planed on funcitional gear doors and strut covers I re cut the rail notches down into the wing approx 3/16 at leading edge and 1/8 at aft end.. there are pic in this thread, it also let me use the large du bro hinges at l/e and stand offs with springs that slide on the strut. if anyone is interested I will go back in the thread and see if I can find the vido of how they operate.

Can't help with JR hope some of the outhers will get in hear.

Cheers Bob

cimara

when you are talking about adding dowels to the ribs are you talking about spreading the load over several ribs or are you talking about driling holes in the ribs and in the main and le spars and runing the dowles through the spars into the plywood ribs that support the landing gear

cimara

about the servoes George Jenkings used jr4721 & 4131 heres the link http://www.top-flite.com/reviews/topa0410-rcm.html he wrote a review for topflight

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi again

I just read a great article on the Corsair in the aug /06 Flying mag, by Peter Garrison he gives a detail annalise on why you should allways make a wheel landings with a corsair.



Bob

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Cimara,
what I did is I drilled into the ribs then put in dowels, top&bottom of rib, in the front, center and rear, as far as the rails go after i figured out where they were going I used tri stock under the rails for the full length of the rail allowing for the blind nuts, all epoxied in place using slow cure.

I wish I had taken pics of it too late now as I'm in the priming stages.
George

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Hmm...

I've not read a Flying magazine in a number of years, but Peter Garrison was always pretty good.

A few thoughts if I might on wheel landings vs. three point?

Due to the vagaries of Reynolds numbers, there are differences in how models fly vs. full scale. Not the least of these is the difference in wing design where you commonly find washout in the wing of full scale stuff so a stall will start at the root of the wing and leave the ailerons functional as long as possible. This is what accounts for what is commonly called "tip stall" in the model world. It is in fact a stall of the wing which occurs at the tip first typically because that washout is not present in a model and the wing tip is the shortest cord in the wing, so the tip of the inside wing on a slow turn will stall first.

These differences will also account for the changes in some "scale" models vs. full scale, an attempt to improve the flight characteristics. Again referring to the Reynolds numbers, there are simply some things that just don't work well when scaled exactly. That's something I've wondered about with the changes from a true scale that TopFlight has made in this model. Was it a concession to the fact that it is a model and those changes make it easier to fly? Or was it a manufacturing decision to cut costs? I don't have a clue which it is, but it would be interesting to find out.

The other obvious reason in a full scale for wheel landings is visibility from the cockpit over that long nose and is the reason you see a lot of say, Pitts full scale pilots, do a slip from downwind to touchdown on landings. If you can't see over the nose, there's nothing wrong with looking down the side of it! Then there is always the notorious Corsair bounce that got it "bounced" from the aircraft carriers initially. This was due to some design errors on the earlier models and the Navy finally just gave up since the Grumman Hellcat was coming on the scene anyway. That gear problem was later fixed and you saw the Corsairs used as night fighters onboard carriers and IIRC, they were among the first single engine fighter aircraft to be equipped with radar. Any way, my point being if you bounce a full scale in the three point configuration, your options are far fewer than if the same thing happens in a wheel landing as you've got more speed to work with on the recovery from the bounce.

With full scale tail draggers the only time I did wheel landings was in the DC-3 our company had, or in a nasty crosswind with the single engine stuff like Piper Super Cubs, other than that I prefer three point stuff, but my full scale experience does not include WW II fighters... []

Then with models, wheel landings take more runway and grass can ruin your day with wheel landings. While I haven't flown a scale warbird this size, or any model with it's typical wing loading, I have flown IMAC stuff this size and prefer to three point those, I think you should land the model in which ever way feels most comfortable to you.

JMHO...

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Zeeb

What you are saying is right on, if I had a scanner I would post the article, but the maine thing with a coerair wing full flaps and gear when you bring the nose up to about 191/2 deg's the stall ocures from the tips in and from my days in convairs old low speed wind tunnel that is backwards, also taking in the big prop factor. I know my first bird did not like to get slow close to the ground with the nose up, it acted like it wanted to snap,

I just thought it was a good article and info to be aware of.


Cheers Bob

Ghostrider FIN

Hello all Corsair builders!

May i ask few questions?

What is biggest diameter of engine what fit inside of cowl? I have Saito 325R5 and i wonder can i use that engine with TF GS Corsair?

What you think if i select Saito is there enough power to fly Corsair good? Engine is quite heavy and not so efficient like other 3.25cu in engines.

Retracts for Century or Robart which is better or nothing matter which one?

Tuomo

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Tuomo

With a Fiberglass specialties cowl engine dia about 93/4 mabe 10 inches, if that 5cyl is as heavy as a G-62 it would be great, what size props do you swing with it?, of corse you would have to have a ring manafold with the scale out lets, as far as the retracts go the bird was designed around the Robarts, so if you went with CJ'S you would have to plan on the mod"s to make them fit.

Cheers Bob T