cliff600

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Hey guys I am back again finally back to work on it. We had a baby about 2 months ago, she deceided to come 8 weeks early. 2 lbs. 10 oz. at birth, almost 6 lbs. now though. I have a problem, I have the dummy radial engine, but I don't think it is gonna fit right. Did you all use any type of extension of the crank? Am I just doing something wrong trying to get it in? I need help in a big way.

ctflyboy

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Hey Cliff
WELCOME BACK & CONGRATS ON THE BABY


RT will have to answer your question on the radial, as I am not that far . [&o]


George

foodstick

I have a topflight corsair story you will like.

One day I am looking at scratch and dent on tower, and see a giant top flight corsair kit listed as extreme damage good for parts only...and its CHEAP 28 bucks, I figure what the heck, I order it,it shows up..box is hardly damaged...what do I find when I open it up? the plastic cowl, one tire, and a box full of scrap wood from some other kit..unreal there was a couple strange laser cut pieces that looked like maybe a foil section that was about four inchs thick with a five inch chord? Didn't look like any wingfoil I had ever seen, and I have probably built 40-50 kits

No plans, no kit pieces (other than cowl)

So I sent an email to tower, tell them I realized it was heavy damage (good for parts only) but where are the parts?I told them it looks like someone returned a box of scraps after building the plane, and I bought their scraps listed as a damaged kit... they tell me that its a bit of a crapshoot buying damaged..and thats that...

Me and my buddy laughed about it, and of course it kinda tweaked me abit..I figure someone must have built the kit and sent back junk wood and the cowl, they probably bought a glass cowl or something. Either that or it was some INHOUSE tower deal where a friend of a friend got the plane and I got his scrap wood collection, anyhow I thought as it SORT OF relates to this thread you might have a laugh at it.

Ghostrider FIN

Hi Bob

Engine diameter is 225mm = 8,8 inches so it will fit nicely. Engine weights 2.37kg = 84oz.

I used 20x10 on break in period. Engine turns it about 7000rpm after 1 gallon of Wild Cat 15% fuel.

I think i ask collector ring from Keleo Creations, those rings looks good and KC makes custom ring if required

Yep. I would be easier to use Robart´s retracts.

Tuomo

rt3232

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Hi Tuomo

I found my Saito spec book and it is the same weight as the G-62 so I guess if you feel up to it, go for it, my only caution is raed all the corsair threads you can plan for your mods, don't stick your fingers to gether and have fun,

You will find most of the fellows in this thread will try to ansure any questions, ware they have first hand knowlage.


P/S I have a Saito 150 in my 1/4 cliped wing cub, it is a great engine.


Cheers Bob T

cliff600

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I have a G62 for mine too, what size prop are you guys using? I am going back down now to fight with this dummy engine. I will make it fit somehow. Oh yea where did you all get a pilot, spinner, and where is a good place to get the fiberglass? I was planning on using a water based polyurethane, I heard it will work very well and the clean up is easy and no fumes, I need no fumes the doctors told us since we have a preemie baby I can not use smelly stuff in the basement if there is any chance of her smelling it.

DaddySam

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Cliff
I got some .75 oz cloth from Tinlins, and some .58oz from a place in San Leandro, maybe CST? I got my 1/6 pilot from Vailly Aviaition, and I'm going to use a 22-6x10. I have some other 22x10's that I use on my other engines, and I may use one of them to see how it spins. The prop hub is from B and B, as is my one inch prop extension. I've only used epoxy/alchohol to apply the cloth with ,but I've heard the the poly urethane works too. I've got one 12 year old and two 7 year olds. My oldest came 2 months early and was something like 2lbs-14oz, and the twins came 3 months early, my girl at 1lb 15 oz and my second son at 3lbs 2 oz! Lots of time in NICU, came home at about 4.5 lbs. They are healthy and keep us very busy. You will see the prematurity raise its head places down the road, in school a bit, but really it's amazing that they can deliver babies that young and small and that they thrive so well.
Sam

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

great pic man. Cliff, I like West Systems epoxy personally. Smell isn't really any worse than the w.b.p. IMHO. I've felt that the epoxy fills in the cloth better and is much more resilient than the poly, though I've used each with good results. You'll need to fill the wood first before putting on the poly or else your sheeting will warp.

rt3232

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Hey Wulf What sealer did you use??



Thanks Bob

cliff600

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What do you mean fill the wood? What do I use for that?

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

I used Zpoxy on this plane Bob. It's been several planes ago that I used the poly now and I don't recall what I used for sanding sealer, but I do recall getting it from a hobby store, rather than Home Depot. Know that's not much help Cliff, but what you're looking for would be just a lightweight sanding sealer. Not sure where to lead you. I buckled down last season and got the big containers of West Systems and it's done about 5 big planes so far and still not through the cans. Lots of $ up front, but having the stuff on hand is awesome if you're always building a plane---or four.[X(]

Got the white on the bottom today as it was really nice outside and couldn't stand it any longer. If it's decent tomorrow, I'll put the intermediate blue on. Another day or two of work now and it's done painting the base scheme.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Tom Pierce aka NEO1, has a great website "www.tompierce.net" and he details the glassing of his SBD using MinWax, as I recall. He also used "Deft" wood sealer, again, as I recall.
Sam
PS Here's the link: http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/html/paint.htm

cimara

Hey Wolf tell me if i am wrong but you dont have to use a sealer for zpoxy or is this web sight wrong http://www.rc-tech.net/fiber/fiber.htm

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

That's right...no sealer necessary with epoxy. Zpoxy gets pricey on a big plane like this. I think you'll probably go through at least 2 full sets and then some. Though West Systems is a bigger nut to crack up front, it works out to one of the cheaper, nicest finishes in the end IMHO, and you can mix precisely and waste less. If you've got a West Marine in your area, it's worth checking out. You won't be buying finishing epoxy again for quite a while.

cimara

Witch do you find easer to work with wolf zpoxy or the west ?

cimara

Have you ever used a light cote of super 77 spray adhesive to sick down your cloth before you put on the resin . curious to see if it works well

ctflyboy

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Cimara,
I went thru 2 units of z poxy on this plane, and I did use #77 spray adhesive to hold the cloth, but I used a 3" foam roller to roll the cloth into the spray adhesive, Incidentally I got this info from Wulf, just adding my 3 cents.

Mike I'm on the last primer coat I bought a can of dark grey and used 600 wet am half done with
the sanding I can tell you one thing its a smooth as glass am anxious to get it done so I can start with lines & rivets.
George

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Great George. Keep it up. I just finished using some steel wool on the white I put on today to even out the color somewhat. Flat white's a tough color to spray on evenly. The rub out helped some. I figure it's probably even enough for government work when I add some wash over the top of it.

I like West Systems for about everything now really. Not messy since it comes in nice dispensers, and you never get to the bottom of the bottles and have like 1/2" more stuff in one bottle than the other, knowing it wasn't mixed right along the way somewhere. Takes a while to set, but sands easily and fills the cloth nicely. The 77 glue is a nice little trick. I don't really find it all that necessary on flat surfaces, but on the curves of the fuse it works well to keep the cloth in place and the weave from spreading. I've been MOST satisfied with the 3/4 oz. cloth I re. from Aero Composites. The weave doesn't fray on the ends nearly as badly as other stuff I've used. I think they call it a satin weave or something like that...works good.

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Like the Energizer Bunny today...just kept going until I ran out of light. Still need to address some issues as you can see from the pics...but getting there. Need to add more dark blue and adjust the fade of the scheme lines a little here and there still. Gets markings next weekend.

Lettin

Trust me when I say the pictures dont do it justice! In my opinion its looks spectacular as is. I cant wait to see it "finished".

Dan

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Hey Dan! Glad to see you check in. Thanks for the nice words. Sorry to have been so preoccupied yesterday during your visit!! That blue has been bothering me all day now.[]. Have to get back over there and finish it up. Next time you stop by, I'll have things in a little better order for you...but am certainly glad to have made more friends through flying.

Stencils for all the markings including the little nomenclature ones should be here in the next few days, so hopefully it'll be completely painted next weekend. Still shy of that dratted clear coat though. It seems this plane was finished in sort of a semi-gloss. In certain lights the full scale seems to shine and others it's more flat....thus I think semi-gloss as gloss is just sooo shiny, yet the flat probably won't do as much to even out darker colors like the shinier stuff will.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

here is a cheaper and in my view better alternative, see if you can track down any places that build fiberglass parts for light aircraft, they will use an aviation grade of epoxy that is superb for our uses.

Here we have an epoxy called Araldite LC3600 made by Ciba Geigy, you will have a similar product over there.

I buy it as a litre "kit" and thin it with metho spirits or Isopropryl alchohol till it is the consistency of water. this extends the cure time but allows the resin to get right into the wood and make a very strong bond. It also means very easy sanding!

The 1L kit can be used to cover approx 2 - 3 kits of this size.

cheers
Peter

Lettin

Thanks for having me over Mike. I enjoyed the visit. I'm hoping to learn something from first hand experience. BTW... I remembered Marines Dream Corsair being more glossy when I was at OshKosh. It is not. Its more semi-gloss/satin. I guess I was just in awe...and it was REALLY clean too.
Heres a link for a "walk around" video from their website. Maybe you've seen already.

http://www.marinesdream.com/

Dan

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi wulf Those pic's look great, and your lines stand out nicely. having never glassed a bird it looks easy I am sure it is not, but next project will be glassed.



Dan Are you building a G/S Corsair? If so don't be bashful post pic's



Cheers Bob t

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks Dan and Bob. Yeah, I've been on the site a bunch now. Even got some great feedback from the pilot a while back when I was researching a bit. I've got all the pics on reference, so I see the spots that can be added to here and there. More, I'm looking forward to getting the markings on and taking that silver gel pen to the thing and making it look better on the rivets and lines in places. Seems sort of dull in this stage.

I kind of enjoy glassing Bob. Odd maybe, but as I've enjoyed finally finding good supplies and methods and how much they aid the process, it's significantly affected my enjoyment of the process. Frizzy cloth, sliding cloth, too thick epoxy, puddles, etc. are drags on the process for sure. Avoiding this makes things enjoyable for the finish that can be achieved. Have made a few different kinds of things now in glass, with some varying results, I like seeing a little blister or bulge that can be made from glass now to gain the experience working with the stuff and getting better. Got to be able to make a cowl in the future I think.[]