n1toga

Thanks Smokey,
so what about the aluminium wing spar/joiner tube.....should I glue it to one of the wings or just keep the assembly in 3 pieces , two wing halves and a tube.

rprice19

n1toga... DO NOT GLUE THE SPAR TUBE TO A WING HALF!!!

The design is to make it easy to remove/replace the wings for transport and is very strong. This design is used in almost all planes, including large 28-40% scale gas engined planes.

Smokey

My Feedback: (16)

rprice19...Thanks for the info. How did you mount the tank? Did you add anything infront of the tank to keep it from slidding forward? I'm mounting the tank at the same location you are.

Smokey

rprice19

Smokey...I cut two pieces of quarter stock, drilled a hole through them and inserted a piece of spare control rod through the hole in the nipple on back of the tank and then epoxied to the bulkhead.
I have a photo, but don's know how to post it!
[img][/img]

n1toga

Note to self> ! do not glue wing spar tube to the wing half ! ....think i got it ...... thanks for all the help guys.

rprice19

Oh well, I guess it worked after all.

Smokey

My Feedback: (16)

rprice19...That was brilliant! I will do that for my setup. One more question. How did you stop the front of the tank from tipping up when your inverted. I can see right side up is okay. But when your upside down, I can see the front of the tank pivoting.

Smokey

capthis

My Feedback: (67)

Got a little more done today. Also threw just about everything in the fuse that was not yet installed and put her together for a weigh in. Right now on my digital fish scales she weighs 6lbs 12.5 ozs. So the control rods will add 1.5 ozs, and will prolly pick up another 2 ozs somwhere too. But this should come out right at 7 lbs. So it looke like I will easily hit my projected weight of under 8lbs, and should be well under 7.5 lbs.

Weights gonna be good so it's just a matter of what it is going to fly like.

capthis

My Feedback: (67)

Finished! 7lbs 2 ozs. That is with a heavy MA paint stirrer for a prop. A good wood one will save me an oz. but if I add a spinner that will cost me 1.5 ozs. Who needs a stinking spinner? Also that weight is with a heavy 1800mh NIMH 6 cell pack, so going to a more modest 4 cell pack would drop an oz easy, so this bird could come it at 7 lbs, and maybe just a tad under. Use a saito 100, and it could be under 7lbs pretty easy.


Hopefully will get it flown soon. I sure hope this little guy flies good!

FATBOY

My Feedback: (5)

Where can I buy the PHX Extra 330S 60-90.

Thanks,

Smokey

My Feedback: (16)

Tower hobbies sells them

capthis

My Feedback: (67)

I have had a chance to fly mine a few times. The plane flies pattern stuff great. Rolling manuvers, like circle, and loops are good, and it rolls axial. Rudder does induce some coupling to the wheels but most extra designs do. It's very managable and not to severe. Plane flies super light on the wings, and is a real floater. Lands very slow, with no tendency to snap.

3D flight is very good. Inverted harriers are rock solid, up right harriers have a little rock, but the big ailerons dampen very well. Hovering and Torque Rolls are very stable. Rolling harriers are as good as they get, and this plane will roll very fast if you want it too. HAKE needs some up elevator held in to avoid the pull to the wheels, but is good, as as KE loops. This will do one heck of a blender as well!

All in all I am very impressed with this small plane, and really like the way it flies. The only faults I have with it, are the color scheme is hard to see in the air on a nice day, and the slight pull to the wheels in KE. I think this plane would fly great with a Saito 100, with the lightening mods I did, and would even be under 7lbs with that motor. My Saito 125 is a rocket on the nose, and hovers around or less than half throttle, and rockets out. I think for the money, this plane is hard to beat. I would like to get my hands on the Phoenix Yak, that is roughly the same size as this one.

sal2006

Hi Guys,

I am building mine at the moment...it is turning out really well. I will be putting an OS 120AX into it with a pitts muffler. I have 645MG's all around and have used mostly stock hardware with dubro 4-40 quick snap links. My only concern is the fuel tank, my120AX will drink that dry in 3 minutes I think, so I bought a 14oz Dubro Tank. I will also have to mount the engine on its side rather than 270degrees. Has anyone put the motor on on its side?? if so, did you just replace the blind nuts? and how about the fuel tank setup?? any joy with that? I am modifying the canopy and will smokee it. Took the dodgy toy pilot out and will recover. Please guys, help me with the fuel tank and engine mounting on its side....post some pics if anyone has done this.

wc524

Use the existing blinds Sal. Punch them out and make a template for your mount and then take your screws and set the blinds. After that your carb will be slightly above the tank center. (see picture) The hardest thing will be getting your hands through the fuel tank compartment. I have big hands so if I can do it most people can too.

1. Remove the blinds
2. Make engine mount template
3. Mark and drill new holes
4. Install new blinds
5. Re-run your fuel lines
6. Run the engine and tune for the new 90 degree position

I was having a lot of trouble with my Tower .75 at the inverted 45 degree stock position. Caused a deadstick and my landing gear. I put the engine in the new 90 degree side with my old Pitts muffler (like my old Phoenix 40 size) last night and changed the blinds out, fixed the landing gear and got it ready for covering all within a couple of hours. Going to cover it today and fly it later.

wc524

Flew the Extra again today with the engine at 90 degrees and the engine response was much better. Also some of you have asked how to keep the front of the tank down. I just packed some leftover matress foam padding in above it and it has kept it real light and keeps the tank from vibrating too much. I opted to go to a 14 oz DuBro tank so I had to remove the rear former that makes the back of the tank section. I love this plane!

Still waiting on my G-90 Gas Conversion from BME.....can't wait to put it on this little extra! And I will be able to run the same fuel with it as my 28% Yak.

wc524

Do any of you notice that the plane wants to drop the inside wing on turns? Maybe I have the CG back a little much, but I have checked the in-flight characteristics and it all seems fine. Inverted it needs only minimal down elevator to keep level. I know it's not the elevator halves being off because I've checked the geometry and manuevers like walls and elevators are spot on.

Any ideas?

capthis

My Feedback: (67)

A "scale" extra is not going to turn as tight as a sport design. Are you sure you just aren't trying to turn to tight? You just don't have the wing to support tight turns.

atmycabin

My Feedback: (10)

I'm interested to see the responses to this question. I noticed something similar but attributed it to my inexperience. It feels like the plane drops out of the turn and I assumed that I wasn't using enough rudder input for a coordinated turn.

capthis

My Feedback: (67)

Also you could have too much elevator throw that would cause a high speed stall that would drop a wing. For normal flying and aerobatics you won't need much elevator, if you cg is where you don't have to hold much down when inverted.

wc524

I think I might dial a little more expo in and drop the % on the low rates, but high rates you got to have the maximum throw. Also in Knife Edge there is minimal coupling which I really like. I have 1% mix in right now which is all it really needs.

rjz

Hey Guys! All of this information has been really helpful for me. I am currently building my Extra 330 right know.

I am about to mount the engine and I am really curious about the mounting orientation.

Should I mount the engine 90 degrees or the way we initially should. I really want to know if any of you has had eny trouble with the engine mounted on 270 degrees. What do you reccomend ?

I am going to use a Super Tigre 90, what prop size would you reccomend for 3D Flying

Thanks

wc524

I have not used the G-90, but I would say in the 14 inch category would be your best prop for 3D and smooth downlines. Somewhere around a 14x6 should be good, and if that doesn't work try a smaller prop to let the engine get top rpms...say 13x6. I like the Master Airscrew K-Series since they have the wide prop which is good for 3D.

I had problems with mine at the 270 position. Moved it to 90 and with my pitts muffler and no problems since. I think the fuel had a problem getting through the carb when at low speeds and with the carb facing down it would load up the engine when transitioning to full throttle. I thought it was a needle setting, but I changed it to 90 degree position and with the same needle setting as before it runs perfect. Just move the blind nuts like I said above.

rjz

Thanks wc524. You are right, I was thinking about the same props. What do you think of a 14 X 4 , to get top RPMs and good 3D Flying?

I also have another engine a FS-91 surpass four Stroke. What do you think of this engine for this airplane?

Thanks for the info on the mounting orientation or the engine. I will take that into consideration.


Thanks

wc524

I put a 14x4 on my tower 75 and it liked it. Slowed down real well, but didn't get to top rpm. I increased the nitro to 15% and noticed a big difference. Two-strokes like to scream and I've found that the best prop for me is the 13x6.

That FS-91 would be about the same ballpark as the G-90. Lots of guys have that same engine at my field and love the fuel consumption and power, but it might underpower this plane. A FS-120 would overpower it, but it also would add about 10oz to the nose.

Go with the G-90 and see how you like it....then if you want more power step up the nitro. With my .75 I get great vertical but not unlimited. Still waiting on my BME G-90 gas-conversion which will have a smaller tank and also more reliable than glow.

rjz

Ok, thanks.

I will try the G-90 then with a 13X6. I will let you know how it performed.


Thanks for your help