rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Cliff

Befor you get all frustratedand your fingers stuck togather you might want to review this web site www://tompierce.net/190/gfx/paint/primerputty/14.jpg or just start at the beginning of his web site tompierce.net he is kind of the expert on finishing wood to paint

Hope this helps

Bob

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Cliff,
Hang in there when its all done you can look back and say "That wasn't so bad after all" Just remember if it doesn't come out right you get to do it again, also theres nothing that can't be fixed right GUYS? I know that for a fact my doors are a perfect example of this.

George

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi All

George don't recall if you posted pic of your doors so I wont comment but the outher things youve post pic's of look good to me, So if you are up and arround howabout some pic's


Cliff

Like george said hange in and if it don't work the first time, Take a deap breath and try again, just try to learn from you glitches and share so we do make them


Cheers Bob T

duber3

hi all!!

I've almost finish the wing, but i'm a little confuse, here why:
in the manual, page 18, step 12 they said to put the balsa hinge point
reinforcement blocks at the locations shown on the wing
plan, here the pic of the manual


and here the pic of the plan


as you can see the hinges block are not at the same place, what i'll do, put the block like the manual or like the plan??


thanks!!

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

I would go by what the plan calls for. Thats what I did
Have you built the flaps yet? if so you can line them up and that should tell you everything you need to do.This is just one mans opinion, hang in there for a night or so others will see your post.
George

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

an outrunner is an brushless electric motor. hobby lobby offers these. the twin axi woulde big enough to fly this bird electrically. the motor is 750.00 the price of the batts would bankrupt most of us but it can be done. im using a g-62 with spring starter easy to start and very reliable

SMUGator

There's another thread on this, but I was able to grab a bunch of photos of the F4U-4 and the F2G at that National Museum of Naval Aviation in Pensacola today. Here are a couple of samples. Let me know if you need something specific.

Tom

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Duber3

When you read step 12 it does say to put those blocks at the BOTTEM of the T/E and don't for get to angle you hinge holes just a little to get extra wood a round the hinge pin,
And I secound George's advice.


I don't have a scanner or I would give you a sketck will try somthing to nite after work


Cheers Bob T

jchorak

My Feedback: (9)

Hello,
For the guys making your gear doors out of fiberglass, what is the cleanest way to cut the doors out?
Thanks,
John

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

John
when I did mine I used PAM as a mold releaseand, if that is your question. I put lines on the wood a silk pin pushed in just out board of each corner covered area with a piece of monocoat but there is a complete set of post starting about 115 thru 135.


Hope this helps

Duber3

Sketch will have to waite till tomarrow as I did not get off from work till late and have to turn a round and go in extra early in the am. This old dog has got to get his 8 hrs of zzzz

Cheers Bob T

jchorak

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Bob,

Talking about cutting the actual fiberglass doors themselves.

jc

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Jchorak
While I was in the process of using fg all I did was draw the line with a pen and took my trusty old #11 xacto knife and a straightedge and cut away,depending on how thick yours are a couple of scores should do it. mine were about 1/8" thick.
But, I never like the way they looked when done, so I ended up making them out of basswood then glassed them. Hope this helps.
George

SMUGator

I use a coping saw to cut the outside edges roughly and then clean them up with a file. I use an exacto or a finne razor saw and straight edge to cut the inside edges.

Tom

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Jc

I used a band saw for the rough cutting and copping saw with a med tooth blade, and then hard wood sanding block with 100 grit paper


Bob

duber3

thank you ctflyboy and RT3232, I will do like the plan and ctflyboy, I did'nt make the flap yet

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hy George

When you made your first doors did you use epoxy risions?? Becouse I could not get a stiff door out of finishing or the other, thats why I went to plain old pollyester (stinkie) but set them out side to cuer.

Duber3

If you think a sketch will help, I think I can take a pic of it and post the piclate this w/e

EVARY ONE HAVE A GREAT THANKSGIVING


Cheers Bob T

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

This stuff might be the solution to stiffening the gear doors without a lot of weight. I bought it for some baffling material, but it's suggested use is for stiffening the gear doors on jet models.

Due to the way the website works, you'll have to go there and look under "Accessories", then under "Building & Finishing Materials" for some stuff called "Poly Ply". It comes in three thicknesses of .010, .015 and .020 which is what I used for baffling.

http://www.bvmjets.com/

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

RT3232,
When I made up the doors I used the heavy fiberglass from Dubro I think it was 6 oz. cloth (I would have to look) and mixed up alot of z poxy , laid a piece of covering over the area of the wig and proceeded to lay up 4 layers of cloth and brushing the zpoxy on and between layers. and let it cure overnight. Hope this answers the question.

EVERYONE HAVE A GOOD THANKSGIVING

George

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi zeeb
Yes the poly-pro works greas for baffling, But I was not aware of it when I puilt the doors[&o] Will probably use next time..


George

Yup that takes care of it


Cheers Bob t

miranda

My Feedback: (1)

Alright guys. This is what I have so far. The glass on the fuse is drying and the paint on the wing is drying. Any suggestions so far does everything look okay??? And also did any of you cut a hole in the side of the cowl at the carbirator for a G62? I only have about a quarter inch between the carbarator and cowl. This is actually Cliff600 but I used my wife's login because I am not sure how to put the pictures on and she does...

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Hmm...

1/4 inch isn't going to do it on the carb intake to cowl clearance. There is an actual formula for figuring out the minimum clearance you need which I don't have right at my finger tips, but basically you need the diameter of the carb intake as clearance to the firewall or other obstruction. It can be a little less than that IIRC, but the hole in the side of the cowl for the carb intake is one reason I chose not to go with a G62. If you really want the formula, I'll see if I can track it down for you but I'm sure it will say you need more than you've got...

cliff600

My Feedback: (3)

That is kinda what I thought, but I know there are several people out here with G62 on them so I will see what they did. I will cut a hole if I have to, but I would perfer not to.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

cliff600

If you have all ready planed your throttle linkage then you only have 3 choices first put a hole in the cowl[>:][>:]ba hum bug, Second is vary carefully Cut the iso block down, this can be done 2 ways as I have done both, it depends on what tools you have and if you can find a machinest, first with a fine tooth hack saw take 3/32 off from the side that goes against the carb then you will need a caliper to check you dim's and sand that surface so it is true and parallel to the other face, then you cut 3/16 off of the other face, and again sand till true and parallel when you are done this will give you an additional 5/16 to 3/8 and this is more than enough, Second method is to have a machinast mill both faces, but if he is not used to doing plactic or he will destroy your block.

Hope this helps and have a great thanks giving

Cheers Bobt

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Couple of other thoughts...

If you don't do as has been mentioned, how will you get clearance for the choke blade when it's open?

Here's maybe a better idea. It is a link to a post by a guy here in our area who has one of Ralph's lightened G-62's with a cute little elbow for the carb so he doesn't have to cut a hole in the side of the cowl on his GS P-51.

I hope this direct link works...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5008831

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Zeeb

You are right I did not think of that, Ralf also makes a thin std style type block as does B & B but to use any of these you eather have to plan for them befor you install you throttle linkage or do the rework.

A word of caution when re installing the iso block DO NOT OVER TORQUE, even with my arthritic rists I have broke 2 tighting by hand. I would also recomend using a casket gel on both sides of the gasket this will insure no air leaks.

Gotta go eat turkey


Cheers Bob T