cliff600

My Feedback: (3)

The resin is 105 and the hardener is 205. You probably already know, but in case you don't, they sell a metering pump for each can also. One full pump from each one mixes the two to the proper ratio's. I bought the micro balloons too, but I did not use them at all.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

use 99% 2 propanol isopropyl alcohol to dilute epoxy to water consistency. then add one coat to .75oz glass. all the alcohol will evaporate giving you very little epoxy. sand very ligthly all the rough edges then redo with 50 % diluted alcohol. use a crdit card to get rid of excess resin., it will be messy. When dry sand with palm sander and cover plane with red spot putty applied with old credit card. This stuff dried easy. then sand off prime to find bad areas and repeat till perfect. you will get a strong outer skin and with a g-62 more than enough power to fly.
a good sanding to get rid of high spots and sheeting edges will go a long way to not uswing lots of putty

NCIS

I have the pumps somewhere in the garage. I just need to get the west systems stuff if that's the way I'm going to do it. I talked to Kelvin and he said he could fabricate a three pipe exhaust for my G62 out of aluminum for $250.00.

Gibbs

Tomcat_104

My Feedback: (42)

I've used the West Sytem and liked it. I've used (and like more) the 20 Minute Finishing Expoxy that my LHS sells. I also get it from National Balsa sometimes. It's important to get a Finishing Epoxy rather than a regular epoxy. 20 minutes has always proven to be more than enough time for me. I have been told that if the finishing epoxy gets a little thick you can add a little more alcohol to thin it down. Has anyone ever tried this?

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Tomcat 104
I use Denatured (I forgot they changed the name)Solvent alcohol when I'm looking to thin down my Zpoxy,as a matter of fact that what I used to do my fiberglassing,I cut the epoxy down to about 50 % then brush it on, but before I lay down the cloth I spray a light coat of 3M adhesive then lay the cloth in then roll it with a 3" sponge roller this way it keeps the weave in the cloth from being pulled apart, then proceed with the epoxy.
George

NCIS

George,

That sounds like a great idea. I'm just sitting back and waiting for as much glassing input as I can.

Thanks,

Gibbs

NCIS

I just took the plunge and ordered my Zenoah G62. I'm going to send it to Ralph to have him convert it to EI and the rest of the mod's he does. Really want to see it. I have never seen a gasser for real. And this one is mine. Can't believe it weighs 5 lbs.

Gibbs

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Every one

Don't forget to seal coat your balsa with a lacquer sealer thinned about 50/50 this will save you a lot of weight, and has any one try-ed polyurethane instead of epoxy?? From what I have been reading this is lighter and just a strong.

Gibbs When you t/t kelvin did he give you any indication how his manifold was/is attached to the engine?? The reason I ask is on my custom muffler I had to go to an extra attach point to keep it from vibrating different than the engine.

Cheers BobT

P.S. I picked up a kit off of Ebay nib cheep so on my third try I will add a lot more scale, like all scale hinge/points pnl lines and rivit/spotweld dots auto canapy may even try for scale pylons gun ports.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

ive heard of the deft method but cant believe its as strong . Anyone out there use it? Give reports

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Well Ralph will put it on a diet and the ignition change is well worthwhile from what I've seen. I've never had a Zenoah, but they have a good reputation and Ralph's mods are really well thought of on the gas engine forum.

If this is your first gasser, they can be a bit intimidating when you think about hand starting something with as much HP as most folk's lawn mowers...

If you haven't already found it, I'd suggest you check the gas engine forum regularly from now on and you'll learn a lot. There's nothing magic about them, but they are a tad bit different.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_142/tt.htm

TomCrump

I've glassed using MinWax PolyCryllic. The method is simple, and faster than epoxy.

I first coat the model with sanding sealer. This helps to protect the balsa from warping. I lay the glass cloth down, and start applying the PolyC from the center outwards. I use just enough to bond the cloth to the wood. I let the Poly C dry for a couple hours, and give it another THIN coat. Let it sit for a couple more hours and apply a mixture of approx 75% PolyC and 25% microballoons. Let it sit for a couple more hours and recoat again. All coats are very thin. If you lay the PolyC on heavily, it won't set up correctly and is dificult to sand.

After the PolyC has cured, I sand with 220 grit paper. It is now ready for primer.

The described method is what I did for my Holman FW 190. I'm getting ready to glass my Ziroli Stuka. This time, instead of using microballoons, I'm going to mix light weight spacle with my PolyC, and coat the entire airframe with it. I think it may be easier to sand than the micrballoons.

Here are a few pics of my FW, so you can see how it turns out.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Tom

What did you thin the polycrylic with??

Bob T

TomCrump

Bob, The Poly C doesn't require thinning. It's about the same viscosity as water. By a thin coat, I meant, do not lay on a lot of accylic in a single coat. You just want the surface to look wet.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I thought I'd jump back in here, noticed that you were asking about Kelvin's exhaust system, which I too have ordered. Last I spoke with him, he was considering a manifold that went to the backside of the firewall, into some chambers, and then from the chambers to the scale outlets. Hope that makes sense.
I should be back on my Corsair here around the first of the year.
Sam

NCIS

DaddySam,

Did you send him the G62 for the Corsair so he could make the exhaust or for another plane? The reason I'm asking is he said I would need to do a mock up of the firewall and send him the engine and the mocked up firewall as he didn't have one at this time. I talked to him on Sunday evening.

Thanks,

Gibb

cliff600

My Feedback: (3)

The west systems person told me that with this I did not need to seal the wood. I liked that because I heard that the sealer was really dmelly and I could not have any strong odors, ya know cuz the new little girl ain't supposed to smell it. BTW she is 17 weeks old today and weighs 10 1/2 lbs. It is soo hard for me to believe she was only 2lbs. 10 oz. at birth. She was small enough to fit in my 35% Yak, but my wife would not let me put her in there, noy even for a pic[&o]

NCIS

Anyone,

Does anyone know if the Robart 4 1/2" 8 spoke aluminum wheels look scale on this plane and will they work? I like there looks and am considering getting them if they will work OK.

Thanks,

Gibbs

Tomcat_104

My Feedback: (42)

Gibbs,

That's what I'm going to use. 5" is more scale but the 4.5" from Robart fit, and look better. Plus I bought them (NIB) at a swap meet for $5.

RCPILOT78

Hey guys I am back from the holidays in the fridged north....I was unhappy with the 4-1/2 inch wheels recomended..so last night I installed a new set of 5" wheels...at first I thought it would be impossible..but I gave it a try and walla I got them to fit...It took a small amount of carving just on the bottom of the main spar no structural damage and I opened the wells to accomodate the wheels and they look great and work without any problems....I was just not going to be satisfied with the smaller wheels....they looked out of place on this big bird..

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

It seems like I've seen other posts saying the 5 inch wheels are just too big, not only the spar interference you mention, but getting them into the wing with gear doors installed. Are they going to fit with gear doors?

RCPILOT78

Hey Zeeb ..no probem with the spar..like I said just a little trimming at the bottom of the spar where the top of the wheel just clears by a hair..in that area I just removed a little more wood in that area so the wheel will clear that area as the wheel retracts. once the wheel clears the top of the spar it fits into the well ok.
.that area has no structural benifit since it is already in the cut out area for the strut...and only a small area is need to clear the 5"wheel...as far as gear doors I don't see why they would not fit just make the wheel as large as is needed...I am not going to add full wheel doors...but I can see where it shouldn't matter what size the wheel is the wheel still fits deep enough into the well to clear a door.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi RCPILOT78

How about a pic or two

Bob

RCPILOT78

OK let me finish up and I can get some pics out tomorrow

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

you guys not need te electronic ignition,install the spring starteR and ordr the bell radial mount. do a search on zenoah engines and youll find the mount . its all aluminum and is under 30.00. aLLOWS FOR STARTER SPRING INSTALL WITHOUT FIREWALL CUTTING. REMEBER TO MAKE A 1/2 IN FIREWALL AND USE TRIANGLE STOCK ALL THE WAY AROUND

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Tim

I have done both spring and jump start system, and for my money the Jump start is the safest, as you use a C/stick so your hand are no ware near the prop, with the spring even with a heavy padded clove that sucker nicked my thumb and took off the nail, I will say the spring work well.

Hope this dose not muddy the water to much

Cheers Bob