nitro_maniac

Hi

Does anyone know of a good buggy tyre guide? I am no the best at knowing what tyres to use on what surfaces!

also what is meant my a blue grove surface?

cheers

mike

Super_Dave

Blue groove is when the dirt is so hard packed the tires start laying rubber down and the racing line will actually turn black.

As far as tires go. The closer and finer the tread pattern is the more it should be used for something like a blue groove track. The deeper the tread and farther tge knobs are spaced (to an extent) the better it does on loose dirt like the proline badlands. Of course then you have tires that are good for inbetween like the proline crime fighters.

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

I havent ran a set yet, but I am jumping on the GRP preglued bandwagon, just ordered 2 sets of cubics (1 soft, 1 med). Fron what I've read the GRP jolly's are a good performer on just about everything, sorta the new crimefighter but better. I'm kinda fed up with paying top dollar for proline tires and recieving tires with imperfections, I've had alot of bad luck with proline, but I will admit the CF's are always a safe bet. Also, for a track thats dry and dusty the GRP cubics are a good choice, also the choice of buggies and truggies that run at my track (dusty, desert-like), and are planted like an onroad RC.

Heres the selection of GRP buggy tires http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...&filter_id=135

If you scroll down to the bottom you'll see all the sets that are preglued, ahhh preglued. I really like the ring of that.

Super_Dave

Yeah I would never buy anymore prolines either but everyone knows about them so they are good for comparisons . Now I'm using Panther tires and they haven't given me any reason to switch to another brand yet. The compounds are soft but suprisingly durable unless you go to their soft compound. Medium/soft and harder is what I always run.

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

Yeah I also like panther too, I ran proline forever and then one day I deceided to go with a set of pythons for my LST and I dont think I ever switched back, and ended up buying 2 more sets. They are really good tires but not as many people know about them as you'd think.

nitro_maniac

ok cheers for that info guys. Is it thye same with truggy tyres? Because they have a completely different C of G and wheelbase etc

O yeah...on the proline tyres is M2 or M3 softer

cheers

mike

heffer

m3 is softer than m2, and m2 is softer than xtr. just remember that the softer the tire, the quicker it will wear out. a lot of people dont like using the m3 compund, in nitro buggies and truggies, because it is way too soft, and will wear way to uick because of all the power the vehicles have

nitro_maniac

cheers. That was why i wanted to know becasue i dont want to be sending leads on a set of wheels+tires and them wearing out in 1 day lol

mike

hotbodiesboi123

hehe im goin on my 2nd set im getting proline badlands woot woot....... just need to wait for the shipment to arive lol

46u

My Feedback: (3)

1.2 Off-road tires
Off-road tires operate quite differently from on-road tires. They usually have some sort of tread pattern with pins that dig into the soil, or a series of small pins that scrape the top surface. This is entirely different from the friction model described above, where you had a smooth, hard surface and a uniform rubber contact patch.
Off-road traction is generally more complicated, the curves have more complex shapes, there are more types of soil, more transients, and there are more variables.
1.2.1 Tread Pattern
Size of the pins/blocks
There's a basic rule of thumb that says:"The softer the dirt, the bigger the pins need to be.". Long pins work by penetrating the (soft) soil, and short pins usually work by scraping off the upper layer of the soil.
Bear in mind that long pins and very soft compounds don't mix very well, then the spikes just bend over instead of penetrating the dirt.
Density of the pins/blocks
For a given tire width, the density of the pins is inversely proportional to the weight supported by each pin. There's usually an optimum, where the tire works best. For example: if a certain tire works very well when it's heavily loaded, but doesn't feel right when it isn't loaded, the tread pattern is probably too dense. This can happen in very dusty or soft conditions.
Tires for sticky mud usually have a very low spike density, because too much spikes cause too much stiction for the amount of traction they create, slowing the car down.
Pins or blocks
Round pins provide grip that feels the same in all directions, it feels consistent and it's somewhat easier to slide. Very useful on difficult, low-traction, bumpy tracks.
Square blocks feel more 'edgy', they can give the impression of generating slightly more grip, especially on smooth, hard surfaces. The forward traction they generate also feels nicer.
Center tread
Some tires have a larger tread pattern in the center, often shaped like an X, an I, or a T. In all cases, it increases forward traction dramatically.
Note that on 4WD cars, more forward traction from the front tires can also mean more steering.
1.2.2 Rubber compound
"The softer the surface, the harder the compound, and vice versa."
Some synthetic surfaces, like carpet or polished floors require specially formulated compounds, such as Schumacher's Yellow compound, and Medial Pro's Indoor compound.
Hard compounds
E.g. Losi Gold, ProLine XTR, Schumacher Blue & Green.
These work well on very soft surfaces, such as mud, damp, loose dirt and fresh grass. The idea is that the tire doesn't move, but the soil does.
Hard compound tires aren't sensitive to changes in foam insert.
Medium compounds
E.g. Losi Silver, ProLine M2, Schumacher Silver.
These compounds work well on most dirt surfaces. They're the best choice if the track is very dusty, or is starting to break up.
Soft compounds
E.g. Losi Red, ProLine M3, Schumacher Pink.
Soft compound tires work very well in blue-groove conditions, when there's enough rubber deposit on the track to make it darkish gray or black. They also work well on very hard surfaces, where the rubber compound is more important than the tread design.
1.2.3 Carcass shape
Round carcass
These tires have a rounded contact area, so they're not at all sensitive to camber changes. They're excellent for bumpy, rutted conditions; they'll provide consistent traction and won't hook into the ruts and make the car flip over. The downside is that they don't generate as much forward traction.
Flat carcass
These tires have a flat, or almost flat contact area. They provide excellent forward traction, and if camber is correct, also excellent cornering traction, but only on smooth surfaces. In bumpy sections, they feel inconsistent and can make the car flip over easily.


No I did not right this it is a cut and past!

toytech93

Hey guys, I just got a set from performance devices- www.buyrccrystals.com - for $18.00 ,you can't beat them. They have a flat profile, great traction on hard surfaces. Try some out, you won't be disappointed. There banner is floating around here on RCU.

sh0wtime

i'm not a megabucks racer by any means but i used 5 sets of tyres during the Neoinvitational race & that track caused almost no wear at all [X(]

that was over 12 runs!

the top guys cars NEVER touch the track without fresh rubber! thats a lot of tyres [X(]

nitro_maniac

yeah looked at that, but they dont post to the UK[]

yeah...but top guys are sponered [>:] .

What kind of tires would be good for wet and dry grass? and would GRP Cubics run on similar surfaces to Crimefighters? They look similar in tread pattern

cheers

mike

sh0wtime

wet & dry grass it has to be Hobao Angle spikes new ones for wet & worn ones for dry

plus the GRP Grip2 work well once the grass gets worn a bit!
if its REALLY bumpy then try Medial Pro Turbo Rats, the soft sidewall will help in the bumps

nitro_maniac

ok cheers

mike