William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Curtiss:

Welcome, namesake of my uncle and cousin.

Here's your adapter:

http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...8a&ppinc=adapt

Bill.

turboapache

Is anyone still taking care of the member numbers? I still have not received mine yet. Harold

turboapache

I have a question about the reassembly of my FA 65 that I have torn down. What kind of lube should be used on the assembly ie. bearings, rod bearing, cam, etc.? Thanks, Harold

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Harold:

I'll get the member numbers up to date before long, patience please.

Best assembly lube is clean fresh castor oil mixed 50-50 with ATF, but it's messy. Straight ATF works fine, it's what I use normally.

Bill.

turboapache

I have a can of spray lithium greese that is very thin when sprayed. This is a very high pressure greese that I use on some of the high performance automotive engs that I build. Small block Chevy engs 450hp to 1100hp it works great for them and wondered if anyone has used it for this type of assembly. Harold

XJet

I just use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil when I assemble my engines.

It's not miscable with alcohol but that doesn't matter -- neither is the grease in those sealed shielded bearings :-)

Mobil 1 (or almost any synthetic motor oil) has vastly superior lubricating qualities to any 2-stroke oil and it provides valuable protection until you get enough blow-by from the piston ring to start the build-up of oil from the fuel.

I also use Mobil 1 as my after-run oil and *never* had a bearing problem with any of my Saitos. Even the SA100 for which I bought a set of new bearings in the expectation that the factory-fitted originals would die sometime in the first year is still going strong on the bearings it came with.

hentie

Hi to all Saito fans !!
I own FA 65 , 180 , 200Ti , 300 Twin and two FA 100
Bought 65 second hand but almost new and going well.
Bought the 180 new and is on a Great Planes Boeing Super Stearman.
Bought the 200Ti new and not yet run - ESM Cirrus SR 22 plane still in box is waiting. I would love to fit a three bladed prop - any advice ont the engine running in , plane , prop and the combination thereof will be welcomed.
Bought the 300 twin second hand with a kit built extra 300 - the engine was apparently run a bit , dont know how much and how and i really need expert advice on further running in procedure on this baby !!
Bought the pair of FA 100 's new and not yet run for a ESM Cessna 337 plane - also still in box and need a push / pull prop combination - advice ??
I would also like to become a member !!

Regards

Hentie

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Bill,
Just wanted to thank you for the "thankless" job you are doing. I know everyone appreciates it - especially the notes which distills this rambling missive into something much easier to use.
John

sundancer007

I would like to second that statement. William Robinson is a real assett to the model industry and takes his own personal time and knowlage to help us when we can not figure things out for ourselves. And this is an understatement.

gjeffers

Me too!! havent had a problem since i began using it

IronCross

I am in the process of planning out a build on a 1/5 scale cub... I want to put a twin in it with the valve covers sticking out each side of the cowl... My plan was for the 90 twin.. I was checking it out and it lists for 599.00.. Then I noticed that the 100 twin lists for 499.00.. Anyone have any experiance with these ?... Wondering why the bigger engine is 100.00 cheaper...
Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The bigger engine uses some parts from the 50 single and has a single throw crankshaft. It will sound somewhat like a Harley.

The 90 is made to look somewhat like a Continental light plane engine. Very little of it is related to a current production single cylinder engine

IronCross

Sounds like a Harley !... Dang that is an easy decision...
So what is meant by a single throw crank ?... As opposed to ?..
Thanks

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Both connecting rods are on the same crankpin, one rod is forked outside of the other and the pistons go left to right and right to left simultaneously but not in sync. One cylinder fires then the other and then there is a big lope, just like a Harley. On the .90 the pistons go out simultaneously and in simultaneously like a BMW bike and fire alternately and evenly. The .90 has two crankpins 180 degrees apart there for the cylinders are off set, the cylinders on the 1.00 are straight across from each other.
I think you can pick out the offset in the pic.

Tom Jones

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Bill.Nice to hear from you.What happened to you...too much work? Nice to see you back. Tom

IronCross

Thanks...
I understand the 100 and think that is way I will go at this point... One question though, on the 90 how do they manage two crankpins 180 degrees apart ?... Can't get a mental picture of that one... No experiance with multi cylinder Saito's either

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

There is a bar or plate between the two crankpins with a crankpin on each side, the front crankpin attaches to the prop shaft in the comventionl way. Like this

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI90TS23A

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI90TS10

IronCross

Got it....
Thanks
IC

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI100T10

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI100T11

Hereis how it's done on the 100 flat twin

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Bill, here is what I use for an assembly lube and to lube the rockers on fourstrokes, it was a buck 19 and is tenacious when it comes to staying where you put it. The stuff is perfectly clear, surprisingly thick when you consider its intended purpose and stays in the rocker pivots for a considerable amount of time.

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

Hobbsy,

Do I spy a magnetic building board? How large a panel may be built upon it? Does it work well? Do you remember by whom it was manufactured and/or where you got it?

Saitos undoubtedly perform better on properly built airframes (don't want to go off-topic).

Thanks.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

R, the building board is 24x96, I went to Dominion steel in Fredericksburg, Va and bought a 4x8x1/8th sheet. They cut it in two for me, the two halves are laminated together and held down by countersunk, gray pressure treated lumber screws placed in odd and even rows to eliminate waves. The original boards were contacted cemented to my work bench in Alexandria, Va. They buckled when I tried to pry them up. Originally Eldon J. Lind, now Great planes.
You're right, Saitos really shine on a straight, tight airframe.

What you see is the tail for a 12 foot TeleMaster that will be powered by my 2.20.

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

H,

Thank you for the reply. My building surface is 2 inch thick, laminated, maple. Your idea of using contact cement to laminate a sheet of 1/8 steel over the surface, as you described your original bench, sounds very workable.

Many years ago I built a 72" Telemaster. It was fun. Are you still doing the Flyin' King with the Saito radial? r

dirtyoldman00

My Feedback: (100)

JUST PUT NEW BEARINGS IN MY OLD FA120 AND FORGOT TO MARK THE ROD, I THOUGHT THE PISTON WOULD HAVE A MARK, DOES THE OIL HOLE POINT TOWARD THE INTAKE OR THE EXHAUST VALVE WHEN ASSEMBLED.

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

Hobbsy,

Did you completely recover from your experience with the killer glue fumes ? Sometimes those things can cause permanent damage [:@] Hope you are not having any lasting effects from this. Anyways im glad you posted it, im sure most of use never immagined that something like using CA glue could be dangerous.

JettPilot