SpecialEd

LOL...awesome. My buddy and I have that issue all the time too. Most times you can't help but laugh.

EvaderAnubis

Well, did a little body searching tonight and found two...
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001251490&I=LX2698&P=K]Sidewinder[/link]
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001251490&I=LX2722&P=K]B2 Sport[/link]
I love the detail of the Sidewinder and the small wing-like indent on the front.
But then I really like the cleanness off the B2 Sport and the idea of making the scoop functional to get more air flow over the esc and the motor.
I'll just get Sport for now and maybe get the Sidewinder at a later time. Especially since I think the sport would look really cool if I could do something with a P-40 Flyingtiger look, solid olive drab. I'm just not sure if there would be enough meat on the front of the sides to get a good looking mouth with teeth.
Of course, I've never air-brushed anything so it's probably a long ways off intil I can do something like that. Plus I could get the Sport from the same ebay seller that I'm going to get a few other parts from that will be just a hair cheaper than Tower

Also... the carbide diff balls, is there one brand better than the other or do the duratrax ones hold up pretty good? And wasn't there shock orings that you guys recomended (I'm too lazy to go back and look)

cheech4

from what i here the duratrax carbide balls are good.

cheech4

here are the O rings.
[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX28&P=7[/link]

smenton

Hey guys Ive got a race tonight and im just wondering if you can give me some hints and tips for driving setups and everything. Ok I know this is going to be hard for you guys to set up tips because you dont know the track and all but ill tell you a bit about it.
OK its a hard packed clay track iits not to tight but it has a big turn at the end of the straight its not too hard I can normally get side way through this turn most people are running real soft proline crimefighters here is a pic i quickly made up on paint of the track the half triangles are like bumps or jumps and the line on the straight is an arrow.

Please help thanks in advance
[IMG]http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n312/smenton68/untitled.jpg[/IMG

Crash7772

Keep in mind you can still use the ESC and just buy a 5700 motor to run instead. I have seen them go for a decent price on e-bay. I think I might look into making a wheelie bar for the Evader as I think anybody with these new Mamba are going to need it. We have had a mild winter for the most part but it seems like it's really setting in now. Warmed up a little this morning.....it's mid 20's.

EvaderAnubis

Thanks Cheech, I didn't feel like sorting through who knows how many posts until I found what I needed.

Maybe we could talk EvaderChaos into editing the first post and adding links to parts like that, tranny upgrades and more of the FAQ type stuff that keeps poping up.

Woke up to -9 this morning... brrrrr... I think the high today is now supposed to be 5 [&:] this weather sucks.

cheech4

there is some guy here comes by once in a while he has raced evaders professionally and has done well, he would know what set up to use to race. i dont recall the name but i know he was europian. but there is a few guys here that can help you.

Crash7772

We already tried that with no luck. Something about the post being to old or something and couldn't edit it.

EVADERCHAOS

Yeah, the first post is too old to edit.
We tried to do this about 6 or so months ago with no result.
I guess we could contact a moderator about it.


Comming up on the one year anniversary of TEC next month![X(][8D]

Crash7772

I think we really should. There is way to much good information in the thread and a lot of it is very hard to find not to mention the same questions being asked a few times a month.

mbrody

Hello vaderites...been awhile, so first off Happy Belated New Year...

Second, I am happy to report that I FINALLY found a solution to my SS4300 overheating problem.

Called Novak, told them the history of thermals, they reco'd their rotor/endbell upgrade and said to add a fan if I so chose.

The rotor/endbell upgrade let me run a full 3800, b2tw, without thermalling. Performance was noticeably improved and the esc/motor was barely warm when finished! It used to be so hot, you would almost scald yourself. I feel like I could easily add a tooth (running 17 pinion with stock spur, going to try 18).

Now to figure out how to keep it straight with suspension, camber, etc...I broke my positve RC thingys and replaced them with another set with a different degree. Now it is hard to stay straight at speed. I have a 0 degree set on standby. Will that help straighten me out? If I run at high speed and try to turn, I spin out (do a 180). Any starting points to check?

Mike

raz54

You may want to add a little toe - in to your front tires. I have my rears at 0 and about 1 degree toe in on the fronts and it stays nice and straight at high speed.

mbrody

I'll try it Raz...the 180 spin outs can get annoying...

Crash7772

I would use the adjustments on your remote. Either switch off the D/R if you have it on or set your steering limiter/wheel lock. This would be more for higher speeds but can help in other areas. Also if you have a ST Pro you have a good deal of options for adjustments which should be in your manual.

cheech4

how the heck did you break a positvie RC metal toe brace? did your car get run over by a car or something??

mbrody

Cheech,

I've said it before and ain't jokin'...I've broken every part possible bashing the living you know what out of the vader...and it's been great fun! The vader has to keep up with my Rhodesian Ridgeback - and if you know what that is, you understand why I run full throttle all the time! And why I break alot of stuff!

(One of the clips got knocked off and the metal toe brace poped off, then broke in half on a hard run.)

Anyways, I think the rear is a little out of alignment from some punishment. Will go to the 0 degree braces, mess with the toe in, and see what happens. I did use the book for general traction/steering adjustments.

Really looking for hi speed off road cornering...

Psyched about the difference that endbell/rotor upgrade made.

alibil

ANYONE:

rookie question: how do I take the diff unit apart? I have the gearbox seperated. do i need to just grip one side of the diff output and try to unscrew the cap screw? is there a trick or "easy" way of getting this seperated?

And for anyone interested...I have messed w/ the esc programming for the mamba max. Holy crap!!! Truly, this is a fine piece of equipment. you can really tune the car to whatever you need it to be.

we're going through an "ice storm" right now and cant test out my new setup (well, plus i have the car apart). it's only 31 degrees, but we're experience sleet and freezing rain tonight through tomorrow.

anyway, anyone that can help me w/ the diff unit, i'm listening.

cjg

To take the ball diff apart you will notice if you look in one side of the outdrive there is a bolt with an allen wrench fitting. Use the supplied allen wrench to remove this bolt and the ball diff will come apart. I recommend you download the manual which has diagrams for assembly/dissassembly:

[link=http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/index.html]http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/index.html[/link]

alibil

thank CJG. I had the manual handy. it just took a little of my special elbow grease to get the unit apart. i needed to put the new carbide diff and thrust balls in.

EvaderAnubis

damnit... I was just about to order some parts to do the tranny tranny and they're out of the B2 diff rings. Looked at a few different sites as well. Tower is supposed to be getting then in mid-january so maybe in a few days.

cheech4

check www.hobbyoutlets.com they might have soem b2 there. i bought from them

raz54

Personally I found the DT rings worked better. The B2 rings are slightly larger and didn't allow the diff the move smoothly so I took them back out. I still have em if you want them.

EvaderAnubis

Thanks Cheech, but no luck there either.

Raz... if you say that the stock diff rings in the evader will work with the B2 gear, I'll give that a shot... I could always order the rings later if I need them and find them.


Also.. do you guys think it's worth upgrading to titanium turnbuckles and shock shafts? They have the ones for the BX pretty cheap on Tower and I was thinking I might pick them up.

junebug48

My Feedback: (138)

hi i havent posted here in a while....lol i just got heatsink with the fan... and just got some dubro pin holders.... cant wait to run it in the summer.....