lowgeared

Ya but there snow everywhere and I just dont want to press my luck!

FRENCHBLUE72

Anybody have any good recommendation on a clutch for one of these..

All The Way

MIP 2 'n 1 Clutch
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAX16&P=7

Hemi6677

I have a request I'm hoping someone can help me with. I have a OSV .15 engine with a rotary carb. Could someone post some pictures of how you have your throttle/servo linkages setup? I think I have all of my springs and rods in their proper places but I know others find better and more efficient ways of setting these things up.

Thanks in advance!

Ca$hmoney

Go by the manual....

lowgeared

OK breaking in my mach 15 on the 4th tank Factory settings are just to rich for it now ... Should I back both off or just the LSN .. It wont start with factory settings[&o]

lowgeared

ALL THE WAY :::::: check your PM

All The Way

pm sent back

lowgeared

Finished the breakin yesssss! On my 9th tank and was wondering does the Mach15 tend to run a little hotter after break in? 230 to 240ish?
Or do I need to adjust the LSN?

125cchyperman

Those temps are good, as long as your not breaking the 290 f mark you should be fine. But yes the engine should run warmer then during break in, as your have leaned it out a little, which will naturally cause high run temps. So yes it should and will run warmer after break in. Just make sure it's not lean and go have fun.

lowgeared

It says in the manual operating temps are between 180 and 230 so I was just curious 240 and to 250 at a few WOT passes and bogs a little on top end should I lean out my LSN alittle to knock that bog out?

theking300

quick couple questions ,

i got a xxx-nt and i just upgraded the motor to an os .18cv-r, first run in a stripped the teeth of my main diff gear....any idea why?? so i repalced it and loosened my slipper..i've read that this motor makes the car wheelie ?? but mine doesn't ?? do i need to add metal trans. gears in order to make it do so??

what temp range should the os .18 cv-r be operating at??


thanks

125cchyperman

If it's bogging on the top end then it might be to lean, try richening the HSN a little and see if that helps. When you let of the throttle does the engine pop, another words can you hear a little pop outta the exhaust. I think it's a little lean but it's kinda hard to know exactly how it's bogging from here. But richen it up and see if that helps.

So just richen the HSN a little try 1/4 of a turn and see if that helps as it may be a lean bog, if it doesnt help then try and lean it out 1/8th of a turn and go from there.

Theking300 I have the same engine on my xxx-nt and did not expericnce a stripped spur gear thorough 5+ gallons of fuel through this engine. Your mesh might have been a little off either to tight or to loose. A mesh that is to tight will cause binding and will strip the spur gear just as fast as it being to loose. Take a Piece of note book paper, tear a piece off and place it between the spur gear and the bell gear. The push the engine up as close as it can without really forcing it to badly, then tighten the engine mounts and turn the spur gear so the paper comes out. This should do it as far as mesh goes, as far as doing wheelies no you dont need metal gears in the tranny to do wheelies. If you have not done break in yet do break in then try and do wheelies. You may need to Lean the LSN and the HSN a little. If the engine is not tuned good then it will not have the power to do a wheelie. Also if your tires are bald or dont have a lot of traction you may need to get new tires as mine does wheelies all the time. Butwhen the tires start to go bald then the traction starts to go away and the tires just spin especially on loose dirt.

So you may need to do some tuning before you do wheelies.

theking300

hey there,

thanks for the advice .... i put a piece of paper though the mesh....goes through ok .... i think , there is a little rock in the spur gear ..which is ok i think.. but yeah as the the tuning .. i have only run about 4 or 5 tanks through it on a rich setting ..so when it gets warmer out i'll try to run a tank or 2 then lean it out some. its hard to tell with this engine tune wise becuase it has such large amount of low end power (conpared to the stock mach .15re) ...

what about engine temp for the os ?? what is a good operating temp for the engine??


thanks

125cchyperman

I cant tell you as I dont take engine temps, I tune my engine for performance, I have been in this hobby for quite a while and know what a good tune is just be the performance and how it sounds. I have never taken an engine temp in my life I was always told not to go off temps so I learned how to go around this.

But anywhere from 220-27o is good, you can go higher if need be, I always went off the idea as long as the engine is not lean or have an air leak or another problem then I dont car what the temps are. Just as long as there not lean and have another problem then they will run at whatever temp they choose to and I am not going to stop it from running at those temps. But thats just how I look at temps and where the temps should be at.

But as far as break in I did about 5 tanks before I started to tune for performance now this is going the heat cycle method, and my engine has 5+ gallons on it and I expect to get at least 10 gallopns out of this beast. But once tuned for performance this enigne will run like a raped ape, and will having you doing wheelies even when you dont want them.

One thing I suggest is switching to another bell gear, I believe the stock gear is a 18 tooth. This has a ton of bottom end but, it loves to rev the engine pretty high as it's geared so low, I did a couple of runs with the stock gearing and didnt like how it liked to over rev the engine. Now it didnt do any damage in those couple of runs, but I didnt like it. So I switched to a 20 tooth bell gear and it gave this thing the extra gearing to haul on top speed but still easily be able to do wheelies when tuned right. This gearing didnt let the engine over rev like the 18 tooth gear did.

XXT-CRer

i think i would like to try the 20 t bell also. mine is flat screaming in 40-50 ft and i cant keep the front down if the track is watered. i also have 18 cvr engines in 3 different xxx-nt trucks. 2 of them are rotary carbs and 1 is a slide. i love them all, awesome powerplants.

XXT-CRer

i have had good luck with losi's teflon clutches.

magic_racer

need help...
I have a xxx-nt that someone gave to me after driving it for about an hour maybe less. the truck is the rtr II version and the guy that had it didnt break it in he just added fuel and started hammering the throttle running the truck wide open right away. when the truck died and he couldnt get it restarted he gave me the truck and said i could have it if i could fix it. I went to the hobby shop and bought new piston and sleeve and got the engine running after tweaking the needles and installing new piston. the problem is now that the engine runs the truck doesnt want to move. I give the engine gas and it just revvs up and the truck doesnt move. I can push it a littl eand get it going but it still accelerates super slow, almost like it has 2 speed tranny and 1st gear is gone. I bought a new clutch and replaced the old one and checked the spur gears etc. and they are all fine, what could be the problem with the truck?? any help would be appreciated.

Maxime

Check the brass collet (conic shaped) that goes between the crankshaft and the flywheel. You might need a new one (pn A9376).

Vigilante212

check your slipper it might be too loose or worn out.

theking300

Hey there,

that happened to me before ....(engine would rev high and trcuk wouldn't move)

suggestions:

-make sure flywheel doesn't spin freely...if so dissassemlbe the clutch nut , change colllet ..(brass fitting) then re-assemble and tighten the clutch nut real real tight
-make sure ball diff. is set tight
-make sure slipper is set right

good luck

hope that helps ....

125cchyperman

It sounds like the diff screw is loose, make sure the diff screw is tight, but dont tighten it to much or the diff nut's nipple will break and be hard to get the diff nut back out and you will have to buy a new diff nut which comes with the nut and washers. But they cost all of $4 so if you do break one, dont worry about it.

If he gave you the manual look at how to tighten it, it should be at the rear of the book, like the last 2 or 3 pages if I remember correctly. But thats what it sounds like but it could also be the flywheel or the slipper clutch. It's pretty easy to tell weather the flywheel is spinning or not, just move the flywheel with your finger and if the flywheel is loose then thats more then likely the problem. Also for the slipper clutch all you have to do is tighten the slipper nut, and thats it.

But look at the diff screw as that sounds like the problem.

D.A.M.

Does anyone know if their is any aftermarket wheels for the AD2?

All The Way

nope

lowgeared

Quick suspension set up help????
Im doing alot of bashing with my XXXNT !!!

What is a good suspension setup ?
As far as where to align my shocks what holes top and bottom and what not!!!!!!