Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Quick interuption...

Those wondering about stock muffler options... the DA50 muffler will fit with just a littl modifying:

I checked the bolt hole pattern... the 60's holes are actually a little closer together... thus you have to file the DA50 bolt holes inward to accomodate the screws...

The bolts are also 1/4" vs the (10/32 I think?) ont he DA head...

So armed with a rattail file, 5 minutes and a couple drill bits.... TADA!!!!! A perfect fit!

I first filed the holes closer together, then ran a 15/64 bit through the holes... followed by the 1/4"... a little extra filing to take the edge off the holes and VIOLA...

Instant (well almost instant) stock DA50 muffler on the Brillelli 60... and it can still be used with the DA50... just drop a small washer on the 10/32 bolts...

I have cut the stack pipe shorter on this one (might be TOO short for a 12" cowl!) and it's 4.25 oz without bolts...

But all up weight... engine, igntiion muffler, standoffs: TADA:

67.2 oz

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Jeff, thanks for checking in. I spoke to Chris last week, he said the spacing was about 1 inch. Thats good in my book. My 87'' EF Yak had about 7/16 spacing.

John

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Dave, where does the DA50 come in with ignition, standoffs, and stock muffler included, about 6 Oz less?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Right at that... just weighed the DA50 with same muffler/ignition and 1.75" standoffs (dont have the 2.5's handy) 60 oz... add about an oz for the extra standoff length and your right at 61 oz

So yeah a hair over 6 oz difference...

3daviator

My Feedback: (23)

Looks good (and easy). Are the openings in the muffler and exhaust port the same size and shape? Someone else also mentioned as I did before about the prop moving on the shaft once installed, I saw somewhere recently where someone with a BME just drilled and tapped the backplate and put in two small capscrews, that would probably work better than rollpins and be lighter if you used alum screws. Interested to see how this engine compares to the DA, I may have a DA for sale

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

The 60 is actually a little smaller... but not by much... 1mm maybe That's also the distance the bolt hole centers are off... 40mm for the DA50, 39 for the B60...

By enlarging the holes 1/2mm inward on both holes, then drilling them out to size, it fit like a GLOVE...

Scott does have the lighter mufflers coming... he says about 3.1 oz...

My is 4.25 cutoff and a full length stack is like 5.3... SO stock to stock...

The B-60 is only 5 oz heavier... all up (with the Roy Sholl ignition)


I'm not concerned about the prop slipping on this engine... the thrust washer is knurled and there's plenty of surface area... I'll use the sandpaper washers if my spinner of choice doesn't have knurling...

Now on a big ol' 100cc+ engine I might be more inclined to want something more... but not here...


BTW... I went through the process of modding the DA50 muffler because I wanted to just see "apples to apples" how the two engines compared with the same exhaust... since the B-60 comes with exhaust... there's no need to buy another... unless it proves to somehow allow more RPM's I also didn't want Scott to send me out the current muffler then have to send me the lighter one... no need... I'll test the lighter one when he gets them in...


I probably will get a header and try out some canisters too.... just for kicks and grins... but weather will keep me inside for some time I'll bet...

3daviator

My Feedback: (23)

I'm not concerned about the proop slipping on this engine... the thrust washer is knurled and there's plenty of surface area... I'll use the sandpaper washers if my spinner of choice doesn't have knurling...

Now on a big ol' 100cc+ engine I might be more inclined to want something more... but not here...




Ahh good pt, the one I had trouble with was a 105 twin. Sandpaper washers? Do you make them up or does someone sell them? Do they run True? Learn something new everyday.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Tower sells the Fuji washers that are grit both sides... work well...

Some have used the sticky sided sandpaper medium fine and cut their own... Stick to the spinner, let the grit bite the prop...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKDJ1&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKDJ2&P=7

Josey Wales

My Feedback: (61)

Chris, how are you hooking up the choke ?

tashley

My Feedback: (9)

I thought this was Chris's build thread y'all.

3d-aholic

My Feedback: (7)

Is this with or without the velocity stack? R you going to leave the velocity stack on?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Yes... and yes...

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

did you mean With and Yes?

3d-aholic

My Feedback: (7)

I'm surprised the motor will fit into the cowl with the velocity stack on...are you going to have it stick out of the cowl?

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Yes... with and yes...

Ummm are we talking about the SAEM plane? the 88" Yak with a 12" cowl?

There will be mor than an inch clearance of the stack from the cowlll... that cowl is gonna swallo this engine... it'll look like a .46 glow engine in there...

diamondave

My Feedback: (29)

then it needs the zdz super160

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

So to leave this thread for Chris' build... I've started a Build and Fly thread for all 88"Yak owners to share their builds and tips...

Come join the fun!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_54...tm.htm#5452111

EXTREME FLIGHT

Next we'll mount the rudder servo in the servo tray using the manufacturer supplied hardware and assemble the pull-pull system. The cables ARE NOT crossed. We are using the 4 inch offset arm from SWB. Assemble the pull-pull connectors by inserting the cable through one of the crimp tubes, through the hole in the brass connector and back through the crimp tube, then loop the cable back through the tube and crimp with side cutters. Screw the ball link onto the brass connector and attach it between the double truss control horn with the supplied bolt and lock nut. Remove the covering from the slot in the rear of the fuselage (see photo for location) and insert the cable into the slot. Make sure the cable is routed throught the hole in the former that sits just in front of the slot. Assemble the connector at the servo side and attach to the servo arm. Repeat this procedure for the other cable.

EXTREME FLIGHT

Once all plumbing is completed and the throttle servo linkage is installed glue the top of the motor box in place with 30 minute epoxy. This piece is NOT optional as it adds an enormous amount of strength and rigidity to the motor box.

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

What length are the stand-offs on the B-60? Are they the same lenghth as the ones Scott includes with the 366GT?. Also where do you get that carbon fiber pipe and header connections you show in the photos?
Thanks for the construction thread...I always read better with good photos

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

We nickname the 366GT as the B60 (Brillelli 60cc) and they are 1.75"

The CF pipe comes from http://www.escomposites.com

The header, coupler and clamps come from DA: Wraparound 25mm drop with flex section.

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks, I'm new to this type of flying and need to gain some knowledge of the proper parts etc.
I already have the 366gt and all the 5955's you could ever want as well as a PowerBox and Lipos etc. But these pipes and stuff I'm not sure about. I'm not even sure if I need them.

Steve

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

Wait to see the flight vids (Chris' with tuned pipe and mine with stock muffler) and make up your mind then... should be soon....

Oh... and you can NEVER have all 5955's than I cuold ever want... Tee Hee

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks, but I do have a connection at Hitec. HiTec RCD is located about 15 minutes from me. I fly with some of the people that work there and somehow I find 5955's in my flight box at the end of the day that weren't there at the begining.............. but for those of you that don't have this weird situation I have there is a place that sells them for about $96 each instead of th $115-120 range most charge. I will wait til I get more info on the "pipe" questions. I have been flying my big Waco for the last 8 months, I have never flown one of these 3d types. Infact I swore I would NEVER order a ARF of any kind as I really like to build. But I just learned never say NEVER. You folks that fly these things have infected me and now I have the bug. I hope by flying one of these Yaks I will become a much better pilot. Besides the field set-up will be much faster than my Waco and that is a BIG plus for me as I don't get much time to fly as it is.
Again thanks to you and everyone else that helps out on this site.

Steve

Yak Man

My Feedback: (1)

I will feel free to give you my opinion about an EF 88" Yak ARF in trade for a few 5955's. You will cherish every moment at the field flying any EF ARF! And the crowd envy is a bonus!