flygilmore

Hey, Kid, get the mojo!!!! (I have two mojo's, a burrito and others)-I don't understand when someone gets on here and asks which plane they should go with and etc, etc, and they are answered with people who obviously have "been there done that" with these funflies mentioned (that all suck by the way unless you don't know any better and you only know how to fly circles) but refuse to listen. Now, he is talking about getting a mediocre if that engine when the FX is perfectly fine. As someone allready said, full fuse scale planes in this size may fly sport aerobatics somewhat decently but they are not true 3-D or tough and it sounds like you are set on finding out the hard way. Now, if you were talking about a 30% plane or bigger then yes, that is where its at in terms of flight quality. Nothing flies like a Swany plane and I have yet to find one as durable either. You can get the mojo 40 or burrito and learn everything there is to know, or you can spend the extra money and get a craptana (had and flown those too) or other full fuse plane that you and others have mentioned and be back on here asking these same questions a few flights later because you were dissapointed with unfavorable high alpha, stalled manuevers. I guess bottom line is, some people have seen the light and others are still searching.

Love2FlyMN

K well I'll look into the MOJO and burrito again...and I've been hearing just as good stuff about the thunder tigre as opposed to the FX..I've just been reading all you're doing is paying for the name when you buy the OS and the thunder tigre is just as good


and when I got here to ask about planes, I told somewhat specifically what i wanted... an edge, yak, or extra, etc..but I suppose if I'm goign to learn how to fly 3D it would be best to get a beater plane reguardless of what it looks like

On the other hand...I might just get a scale looknig plane and learn some aerobatics and get better and upgrade in another year...but I think I would outgrow it too fast

Love2FlyMN

Holy balls, the mojo is $190...I'd rather not...

Bolio

If youre serious about really learning 3D, follow the advice given and buy a Profile. May not be as beautiful as a full fuse plane but for sure are the best tools for honing your 3D skils. Any other kind of plane in this size will not help you to 3D.
An OMP bird like the Fusion 52 will give you a very rewarding practice time and will sustain more small dork than any other kind in this size.
You won't regret after the first few flights.
Saludos.

Hibrass

My Feedback: (1)

Poorkid,

I understand that draw of a scale aerobat... But if you have an existing .46 engine look at the Tribute 36 ARF. It is a profile but it can 3D and is easliy repairable when you do smack it hard while learning... There are nice threads on this plane already in the ARF and 3D sections of RCU. Oh and the complete plane is on 89 bucks...! Then move on to a nice scale... :-)

Good Luck,

Hibrass

flygilmore

The mojo kit is $72 plus shipping. Extremely easy build-it can be framed up in about 3-4 hours if that long. It is one tuff plane. My radio batt failed once due to frigid temps and I went nose in from about 50ft into frozen ground. Walked over and picked up the plane only to find a broken prop-was back in the air in 2min. The glass tube is one of the keys to this plane-nothing flies like a mojo baaaybeee!!

Oh, and yes I have a couple of TT.46's that turn 14K+ on a mousse-can pipe and APC 12x4. I like them just as well as my FX's or better-the 46pro in my opinion is the best Thunder Tiger and have awesome power.

buildflycrash

Cody-RCU

A nice looking 40 size yak 54:

http://www.nitroplanes.com/yak523d5056n.html

For 125 bucks. But I know a couple people who have had terrible luck with Nitroplanes. One got his stuff damaged and another never got it at all. NP did nothing about it.

ryan_m

I wouldn't buy anything from Nitroplanes.... there are many horror stories of them on here.

If you are dead set on a scale type plane that would 3d well, and don't wanna build, or want a profile plane, then how about Electrics?
3dhobbyshop.com has a beautiful Yak, 47" wingspan. All up weight is about 35 ounces, it can run on cheap 3S 2100 Lipo batteries. The motor and speed control will run you about 125, about the same as a .60 or .75 glow engine. There are numerous other choices in the electric field too... extreme flight has a Yak (probably the same plane as the 3dhobbyshop one by the specs), and they also have bigger size ones. Though with electrics the price goes up very quickly once you get more than 2.5-3 lbs...

Cody-RCU

The problem with an electric of that size is the cost. Sure, 125 for motor / ESC. Then at least 50 for a pack, and that's only one. Then at least fifty for a charger / balancer. If you wanna do 3D with electric on a budget the way to go would be a smaller foamy.

Love2FlyMN

k....THem nitro planes look great but I don't wanna get screwed over frmo them..I'm gonna just go to the hobby store and see what they have or what they can order for me or talk to one of them

Love2FlyMN

OK....How's this plane for buying and just doing sport and aerobatic flying? http://www.greatplanes.com/airplanes/gpma1240.html
Something to learn with then when I get better and want to start 3D I can move up after that.. Or does this one fly 3D at all?
I don't really want to go electric, I have a zagi and I just don't like charging the batteries, waiting etc...

Rcjake97

what about a Pizaaz .40?

Dave McDonald

My Feedback: (19)

I've flown several of the kit versions of the GP Extra 40, but have never seen the ARF version. The kit versions are good flying sport aerobatic planes with little (if any) 3D capability.

Cody-RCU

I had a 60 size GP Extra - a fantastic airplane. Would hover, harrier, blender, rolling harrier, but waterfalls were out of the question - that should tell you that it's not really a 3D plane. Pretty heavy by today's standards. It's an old design.

Just save up for a while and get a Fliton Extra or Edge.

ryan_m

That Extra has a pretty high wing loading for a .40 sized plane... 21.3-22.3 oz/sq ft is what they list. And that assumes that the plane comes in at the weight they list, many arf's do not.
Most people say for good 3-d on 40 sized planes you want something closer to the 12-15 oz/sq ft range. I mentioned earlier a couple of profile planes I have, The Burrito, and Katana V2. My Burrito weighs in at 4lb 3oz with 748 sq. in. of wing area. That gives a wing loading of: 12.89 oz/sq. ft.
For the Katana V2, mine weighs in at 4lb 15oz. It has a wing area of 718 sq. in. Wing loading there is: 15.84 oz/sq. ft.

Still low for wing loading, but the difference between the two is quite noticeable when flying. I find the burrito much easier to do any 3d on. Trying to fly that Extra 300 with a wing loading in the 21 oz/sq. ft. range would be a whole lot worse. That plane would probably fly IMAC sequences pretty good, and be great at most other aerobatics, but 3d type flying where the wing is in a stall condition most of the time... not for me. Extra's like to drop a wing when they stall too, or at least the 2 I have flown did, and doing 3d down low to the ground is a sure way to lose the plane if it drops a wing in a stall.

You can use this formula to calculate wing loading
Loading (oz/sq.ft) = Weight(oz) / ( sq. in. of wing area / 144 )

I think the bottom line is if you really want to do 3d and make it as easy as possible to learn on, you want to look for as light a wing loading as possible. Electrics make this easier since the planes aren't built to withstand the vibration that glow engines have, and so you save quite a bit of weight. You will spend a bit more for an electric initially getting batteries and a charger, but you will eventually save much of this cost in not buying glow fuel at 15-20 bucks a gallon. Also electrics inspire a lot of confidence for 3d as you don't have to worry about an engine dead sticking in the middle of a hover and then crashing the plane as a result. The only reason I suggested an electric in the first place was because you talked about buying an engine... if you are gonna spend that much, electrics are another option. If you want to stick with glow planes there are a number of great choices that would be good to learn 3d on... but many are profile planes. If you insist on a scale plane you will definitely make it harder on yourself to learn 3d on... that trade off is up to you. The Mojo ARF's are not currently available by the way (try adding it to your cart on billyhellrc and you will see). The Sabre arf is much cheaper and almost as good as the mojo, it's only ~120 bucks I think.

Uncas

My Feedback: (1)

poorkid,

If you are going low budget and want to do 3D - keep your .46 and buy a profile. You must sacrifice scale looks and scale flight.

Sorry kid, but that's just the way it is.

Love2FlyMN

what's the sabre??

And say money isn't an issue anymore...if I were to spend like $200 on a plane..then what options are there? funtana?
It's just like I don't know if I want to learn 3D flying or just scale aerobat..

Dave McDonald

My Feedback: (19)

Since this thread has strayed quite a bit from "learning to fly 3D with a $120 plane powered by a 46FX", maybe we need to back up and get some more info.

What planes have you been flying, including the one you're you flying now?

Have you already learned the basic aerobatics? Loops? Rolls? Spins? Inverted flight?

Love2FlyMN

Anyone got any info on the pizazz?? it doesn't look like crap and it's decent price...reviews on RCU look decent...if anyone has a plane that is similar to the pizazz that might be better let me know...
If you have a pizazz let me know about it, how you like it etc.. (durability, 3D capabilities...
..)

And..Dave...you'd laugh if I said what I'm flying and stuff... I know I have the skills to fly and start getting into 3D... I learn very fast so I'm not worried about not being able to even fly..I can fly around in circles upside down, can do loops and rolls, they're a breeze.. I jsut want something other than my Avistar (I knew you'd laugh at me)
I want something that flies good and I can grow into even if those first couple steps are hard to get used to..

Cody-RCU

Poorkid, you're at the right stage for a 3D plane. Just keep it nose heavy and keep the throws toned down on the first couple flights and you'll be fine. I went from a Train-Air, (very similar to your avistar) to a Somethin' Extra. The avistar is a decent airplane for beginning aerobatics and thick wing stuff can be pretty tame when flown conservatively.

I haven't owned a Pizzaz but I've flown one. It's a decent design. Hovers/TR's very stable. Harrier had some wing rock. KE not as good as a profile. Forget a KE loop.

If you don't mind "building" something, look into a Tufflight 4D: http://tufflight.com/4d.html I own one. It's incredibly durable, will do anything 3D related, and is pretty cheap. It's easy to build as long as you don't try to make it look good. And it breaks into a stall quickly and smoothly like a scale airplane because of the thinnish wing. It's as far from scale as you could get, but it's very practical. It also won't do precision very well.

Rcjake97

i am building a pizazz i got from a swap

I will give you the characteristics in about 2 weeks I will give you the full report about its flight and partial 3D(I am getting into 3D myself!)

looks like a nice plane

engine:Os 55

Radio: JR 8103

I dont know everything else off the top of my head!

Love2FlyMN

for some reason my thread is messed up or something...I keep timing out or somethin

Rcjake97

huh?

I dont get ya?

hvac

My Feedback: (7)

pizazz is good. had one, TT.61. flew great. u-can-do 40 with a TT.61 or a Twist with a Tower .61. Both are very fun to fly. ucando is very fragile, twist is sturdier. profiles are great also. scale planes like edges, yaks need to be 27% gas or larger.