cimara

Gibbs i did the jonts like the prints called for . i also had the same problem with T1 breaking lose .It took me the better part of 2 days to get them to fit correctly. If you dont mind post a pick of the jont you switched to if a build another one i would like an easer joint.George those rivits look fantastic. Tim post a pick of your folding wing I would love to see it. that has to be the coolest thing to see operate.

devens

Tim.... how bout some pics buddy

ScottyC

My Feedback: (5)

The notches are a pain, but if you work carefully you can get them right. cutting them at a 90 degree and sistering them with some plywood will work fine. Just make sure you don't shorten the wing. Here are some pictures of mine before and after.

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Tim, RT,
I did the rivets after the Marine's dream corsair(plastic Model) that thing cost me $30.00 when I first started this project so for what it's worth it's good enough for me, besides thats the rivets the model has on it. However I'll take your comments under advisement,and bookmark them. This way I have something to reference if I ever do another Corsair,(SCALE) but the chances on that are slim to none.And rememember Tim & RT this project that we are all working on it is only a "TOP FLITE". So how much scale do you do?seeing its nowhere close to scale.
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

hey make folding wings then you dont worry about the notches. once the system is fully operational i will take pics and draw schematics so anyone can do it

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi George

Your are right it is just a Top Flite kit, but it is still fun to make the mods, my problem I am by nature LAZY so rivits I most likly will not do, I may try the major pnl lines on my new project when I get that far, for those that don't know. I went over to the dark side and building a G/S T/F P-47 with scale hings points and lines gear placement to correct location and a few outhers that don't tax my nerves, like doing rivets

Catdh you later

Cheers Bob T

Corsair Brotherhood #5

NCIS

cimara,

All I did is take out the angle and make them straight. They are still notched just not to the shape on the plan. Plus this can not shorten the win. It is still 11/16" from T-1 to the first rib on the center section. I checked th length on each side at the LE and they were exactly the same distance. The wing will come out to be the specified 62" or maybe a little bit more. That just depends on the wing tip shaping. I'll post pic's tomorrow. I already locked my shop and quit for the day.

Gibbs

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

well i did a 3 view and besides minor wing incidence and rudder faults she looks ok. MY dad flew them and said it looks good to him. I Modded the fin and wing tips. The folding wings were actually fun to set up. Wait till I hook up the servos for the mechanism

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Guys, I HAVE RECEIVED A FEW PM ON HOW I DID THE RIVETS ,SO AS TO NOT HAVING TO TYPE OUT INSTRUCTIONS FOR EACH PM, I'll just post it here.
HERE WE GO, after you got the panel lines done the 1st thing I did was determine what side of the line you want to put the rivets on, after thats done, I drew a light pencil line with a #2 pencil, measuring 1/8" from the panel line, then I made a template, using aluminum roof flashing It's really thin,(and most True value's,Home Depot,or Loew's, have it.) I cut it to a 1/2" width,by about 9 inches long, measure in 1/4" to locate the centerline and draw it in,(I USED AN AWL TO MAKE MINE,YOU WANT TO BE ABLE TO SEE IT.) from there I measured a 1/4" on center the length of the 9" piece,then I used a 1/8" drill and drilled out the holes on each 1/4" mark, APPLYING THE RIVETS, WHAT I USED IS MY COVERITE TRIM TOOL I took a piece of 3/32" brass tubing about 1" long and secured it to the the of the tool, I set my temperature at 350 and let it sit till it's hot. I then took a piece of duct tape on both ends of the template and a piece along the length just to keep it flat, then all you need to do is line up your pencil line with the centerline of the template and burn them in. YOU WILL WANT TO EXPERIMENT ON A SCRAP PIECE OF BALSA TILL YOU GET THE FEEL OF THE TRIM TOOL FOR BURNING THEM IN. BUT ONCE YOU GET THAT YOUR SET TO BURN IN YOUR RIVETS. DON'T WORRY IF YOUR BURN THROUGH THE SHEETING THE PAINT WILL FILL THE HOLES,(THIS IS WHERE THE TRIAL & ERROR COME IN FOR EXPERIMENTING. I might add that you may want to do one at each corner, then work the line. You will find that somewhere on the line you'll have to adjust for spacing fudging it in, but no one will ever see it, and LASTLY what I found is that after 12 or 15 rivets you need to clean out the end of the brass tube as it does clog up with primer, what I used for that was a T pin or a # 11 xacto blade. that pretty much covers it, if I can be of further assistance just PM me.
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood #1

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hey GUYS, RIVETS

ONE MORE ITEM IS WHEN YOUR DONE WITH THEM, YOU MAY WANT TO TAKE A PIECE OF # 800 SANDPAPER AND VERY LIGHTLY GO OVER EVERYTHING THAT YOU JUST DID ,THIS WILL KNOCK OFF ANY HIGH SPOT AND KEEP EVERYTHING SMOOTH.


George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1

warks62

My Feedback: (140)

Thought I would post some pics of what I have done so far. It is close should be ready in 2 weeks I think. Today was a good day put all the servos back in the wing and tested. Put the gear back in and ran it through a few cycles and the gear and doors are working perfect. I am pleased with it still have a bit of weathering to do on the fuse but the wing is ready. Still need to buy some more scale wheels but these will work for now. As for rivots I used a 40 watt soldering gun that I borrowed from a friend. He had modified it already by gringing the tip to the right size then drilling a hole in the center. It gives good results and was easy to use. Takes a while to get used to but by about the 20th one it was good to go. Just used a scotch brite pad after to knock them down a bit and it was ready for paint. Panel lines were done with 1/32" chart tape. I will take some more pics when I take it out to the field which should be better.

Randy

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

warks 62(randy)
Nice job, what brand paint did you use? what did it weigh it at?

when will it go up for the maiden?



George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Randy

Beautiful job youve down there. Would you mind telling us a little bit about your bird, ie mods ,power the good stuff


Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood #5

RCPILOT78

warks62 nice looking bird what is the FINAL WEIGHT ??

warks62

My Feedback: (140)

Final weight hasn't been done yet but it is about 29# I think. G-62 for power, Robart retracts, modified the tailwheel to make it longer to give it a better stance, doors with air cylinders using a UP-3 valve, full cockpit with a Blue Box Pilot. Glassed using 3/4 oz. cloth. Paint is all automotive Dupont. Primed then blocked out then laid down the chart tape for all the panel lines. Next was a auto sealer, removed the chart tape to show the panel lines, then the rivots. Scotchbrite it and shot it. I have to give a lot of recognition to Doug and Bruce who did and helped me a lot. Without them it wouldn't of come out so nice. Depending on the weather today I will either go fly or work on the plane. Everything is hooked and tested except the engine. All I have left is to install the fuel tank and lines and kill switch. One other thing is the eaiest thing to make dooors out of is aluminum flashing. It is very rigid but you can easily conform it to any shape. All the doors are made out of it plus my access hatch which is on the bottom of the fuse holding the switches and air fill valve. All the hinges on the doors were Aertech metal hinges which just work the best. They have no give and keep everything lined up perfect plus even though they are the same size as a regular plastic hinge are thinner so they show very little on the outside of the surface. Oh forgot to say thanks to Steve from Onsight Signs for making my paint masks

Randy

NCIS

ctflyboy,

Could you post a picture of the tools you used? I need visual stimulation.

cimara,

I temporarily tack glued the retract mounting rais in and installed the retract. It took all day yesterday to get them where they would be far enough toward the LE and also be able to be sheeted over. Here are some pictures of yesterdays efforts. Today I am trying to figure out the air system. I have a diagram of a air system by Century Jets but they are not for these retracts. I will have to call a Tech and have him walk me through it. I forgot the picture of the notches. I'll try now.

Gibbs

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

NCIS
Here's the tools I used






George
Corsair Brotherhood # 1

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

NCIS,
forgot this one

NCIS

ctflyboy,

Thanks for the pictures. Now I know what you meant. I will try to make a heating tool like yours. Could I just use a soldering iron with a small blunt end?

Thanks,

Gibbs

warks62

My Feedback: (140)

Soldering gun is what I used ground the tip to the right size then drilled a hole in the middle makes nice rivots. After they are all done just run a sctchbrite or sand paper over the surface to knock off the high spots and anything loose works great. Lucky me all had to do was borrow mine from Doug he had already modified one to use.

Randy

NCIS

Hey,

I was watching the Roaring Glory Episode #7 on the F4U Corsair last night. They have a pilot that explains all the controls and the important flying information. He also goes into detail on any changes that were made to the aircraft to improve it's performance. While he was doing his walk around he stated that the first Corsairs had a built up aluminum aileron with fabric covering. Then he said because of flutter problems they switched it to solid smooth wood aileron with fabric covering. He also said this was done on the F4U-1 through the F4U-7. I am going to forget about the built up ailerons on my Giant and just buy a balsa ailerons and then cover them in fabric. My 1/8 scale Corsair came with solid balsa ailerons and I was upset but now I'm happy it's scale. This is true scale and will save a lot of time that I can work on other modifications I want to do. Like the wedge on the LE of the wing just outward from the oil coolers for stall protection. He said that just about the time the ailerons will loose effectiveness these will let you know. Just a bit of trivia. Any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Gibbs

SMUGator

If you are interested in that sort of thing, I highly recommend Whistling Death: The Test Pilot's Story of the F4U Corsair by Boone T. Guyton. Here is the link at Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Whistling-Deat...e=UTF8&s=books.

Mr Guyton was one of the primary Corsair test pilots from the experimental model all the way up to the Korean War and provides many details about the process Vought went through to improve the design over time. I thought the section on testing new aileron modifications on a dailly basis was particularly interesting. He basically had a tape measure extended between his knees. He also had a gauge on the top of the stick that measured the amount of lateral force he was applying to the stick. His job day-after-day was to move the stick an inch to the left and then record the roll rate and the pressure reading in a log book. Then move it and inch to the right and record. Then an inch and a half to the left. Then and inch and a half to the right... He was on a regular diet of airsickness pills. He told stories of having to open the canopy to eject his breakfast and hoping that his mechanics wouldn't find the evidence on the tail group. Very readable book. The sections on dive testing were thrilling and terifying as well. I can't imagine pushing a plane over into a dive that nearly killed you the prior day.

Tom

NCIS

Hi Everyone,

I decided to work on my Piper Cub while I wait for the pump and ristrictors for the Corsair. The Cub is a Great Planes kit and has a 90" wingspan. I guess you could call it a Warbird and a Giant. I have both the Super Cub cowling and the J-3 cowling so with the J-3 cowling on it, it's a Warbird. Anyway I am waiting to take it to my cover man for fabric covering, but he won't be ready for it for about a month. I don't know if I am going to paint it olive drab or not. I might make it a Navy plane and then the blue would also look good with the Super Cub cowling on it. I said I was done with it when I ordered the 2 Corsairs but with time to kill I added a couple more modifications to the many I have already done to make it as true to scale as possible. I added the top flying wires on the tail and need to pick up more wire to do the bottom ones. I also added the step to get into the custom cockpit I made for it. I might make windows and doors that open but I'm not sure yet. Here are some pictures so far.

Gibbs

NCIS

Where did everybody go?[]

Gibbs

cimara

Got a question for you guys . Should I use a rare earth magnets to help keep the gear doors down during flight or should i adjust the linkages so that it will be very tight aganst the door jams