SMUGator

I wouldn't trust magnets given the amount of buffeting that those doors will get from prop wash and airflow when they are open. A combination of direct linkages and spring loading is what we are working on.

Tom

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Tom Are you far enough a long to show how they work ?? like a pic as the gear strikes the bar and how they look up and locked. It looks like a super way to go, and if I have problems with mine as is, I just may change..


cimara I am of the same mind as Tom magnets wont work with the buffetting


Cheers bob T

Corsair Brotherhood #5

cimara

Thanks guy thats what i was thinking also .That is one sweet set up on your gear doors Gator

SMUGator

Thanks for the kind words. I got a couple of PMs on the set-up so I'll just answer the questions here so everyone can benefit. The springs are standard issue click-type ballpoint pin springs. We cut them a bit to get a good fit. The pins that the springs ride on are just 4-40 wire with a bead of solder on the end. The cross-bar witht the R on it is made from copper plated PC circuit board. What you can't see from this photo is that it has two small lenths of 1/8 brass tubing soldered on the back. The 4-40 pins ride inside those. I first learned about the PC board from Luke's scale tailwheel build and ended up buying it from this e-bay vendor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Copper-Clad-FR4-...QQcmdZViewItem

We find tons of uses for it and can't imagine not having some around the shop. Everytime we want to fabicate a bit, we end up reaching for either plain or copper faced PC board. If it needs soldering, we use the copper, kind of like in this tailwheel build in progress. Per Bob's question, I can't post more pictures at the moment since I just sent the retracts back to Sierra for some adjustments. I don't expect to have them back for a couple of weeks.

Tom

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Tom No nead to hurrycna't build another corsair till I get the 47 out of the shop, just keep us all posted please, may get a week end of building as the weather man is saying we will get 6 to 12 or more snow and I won't clear till the storm is over, oh well it hi-ho hi-ho off to work I go[>:]


Cheers Bob T

cimara

I wish i had 1/2 of yalls skill in figuring things out and building them .Do yall have a small machine shop to build this stuff as in a milling machine and lathe?

SMUGator

Heck, no! We use regular hand tools, and a dremel. I'd love to have machine tools, but I have no idea how to use them.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Thanks for showing your mechanism for closing the doors.
I've never seen that method before: it looks simple to build and maintain and looks very functional.

Tomcat_104

My Feedback: (42)

SMUGator,

I built my door closing system like many others have but after seeing yours and the fact that my first attempt wasn't to my liking I'm going to follow you example this time. Good work! I obviously like what I see. Good luck.

David

Corsair Brotherhood #3

cimara

SMUGATOR i saw your scale hinges on the alerons in the 1/8 scale mod thread it looks great . I was wondering if there was any advantages to that system other than it being scale. Is it easier to hide the hinge line ?

SMUGator

The hinge line is actually harder given that it's on the lower edge of the wing and there is some curvature at the tip. You can keep all of the linkages internal and have no pushrods and control horns on the exterior.

Tom

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi guys

One comment You can not have any slop ie: all pins and holes must fit, or you can end up with flutter, and that is a vary bad thing


Cheers Bob T

Corsair Brotherhood #5

SMUGator

Bob is right about the hinges. If you take a look at the build thread over on the 1/8 Scale Mods topic, you can see that we started with a piece of 1/16 wire and then drilled the hinges to fit. The wire defines the hinge line. Unless you are a scale buff, I wouldn't do this mod. It requires a lot of fiddling and doesn't buy you many "wow" points at the field. I do it because I enjoy the process, but it isn't for everyone. It probably isn't worth it on a Flop-Tite, but for me it's part of a bigger learning process.

Tom

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

well installed elev servos and hidden aileron servos in outer panels. sheeting center section. my gear and large torque (300) oz servos are in so I will pick those up and them work on gear and wing floding mechanics. Yes im crazy but its going to be easier than i thought thanks to the site!

NCIS

Question,

Is Top Flites kit not very good? I keep hearing that it isn't worth making mod's on the Top Flite kit. I bought both of them and I am building the smaller one now to figure the Giant one out and I think it is a good kit. I think any kit is going to be off scale and will need mod's. Tell me what you don't like PLEASE!!!

Barry

SMUGator

Hi Barry,

The TopFlite kit is a fine sport scale offering. There are extensive threads on here about the "scale" merits of various Corsair kits. Unfortunately, TopFlite isn't one of the particularly high-fidelity offerings. You could spend hours reading the various debates if you are interested. It really just depends on what you are interested in. I'm still pretty early in the learning process, so I like it for affordability and relative ease of building. And I'm ok with the idea that even after doing every mod in the book, someone will be able to say "look, the stab and rudders are flat - that isn't very scale." I wouldn't take it to Top Gun, but that isn't where mine is headed.

Tom

NCIS

Tom,

I love my TF Corsair Kits and am having fun building it my way. I am not interested in it winning competition, I just want to be proud of it like I am with all my other scale planes when I'm done. To me it is good enough for me.

David,

Have you made that disk for me yet? Not pushing just wondering.

Barry

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

well lets put ww2 gas and oil in them and ww2 air. some people get way out of whack. if a model is not modified it will not fly well. we cant reduce the size of air molecules!

Tomcat_104

My Feedback: (42)

Gibbs,

I'm still trying to figure out how to split the content onto 2 CD's with the stuff I have. I put out the cry for some help on another forum yesterday and hopefully I will have the answer in a day or two.

What Tom told you was right, if you want to build for competion build something else. If you want to build for fun and for yourself then the Top Flite is good and with the help of this forum it can be great!

I have built 3 TF .60's and am working on my GS because it is fun. When it's no longer any fun then I will have to switch hobbies. I started and half built a Pica Corsair (60 size) that just sits in my garage. I guess I should sell it, it's just that my TF looks so much better!

David

NCIS

Guys,

Heres the pictures I said I'd post when it worked. I just installed my pressure gauge and haven't tried it yet. I'll do it tomorrow.

Gibbs

Tomcat_104

My Feedback: (42)

Looking good Gibbs, I think your approach is a good one. I wish I had put doors on my 60 size. Keep the pictures coming, they show a good guys good work.

Let me ask one question here. What servos is everybody using on their GS bird? I bought CS-70's for my Corsair because I thought they were needed (and they were a great buy). I ask this because my son torn down my GS Pica Mustang today and I built it with regular 148 servos. Well it's 5 years old and we've flown the H$#L out of it. When I get it repainted should I go ahead and upgrade the servos? Logic says yes. History says it has flown for 5 years on 148's, why change? What do you guys think?

Gibbs, keep up the good work.

David

Corsair Brotherhood #3

cimara

Gibbs lookin good and i wouldnt worry what other people think of the topflight kit as long as you are happy with it .Its amazing how much progress you have made on the 1/8 scale kit you must work several hours a day on it

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Toncat aka David

If you go to futaba's thec page you will find that those 148's right up there in torque, I still use mine new gears and they center repeet realy well, Sence going to the bigger birds I am using them on rudder and tail wheel and have gone to futaba 3010's and hi-tech 645 mg's for all the rest so we will see.

Hope this helps


Cheers Bob T

Corsair Brotherhood #5

Tomcat_104

My Feedback: (42)

Bob,

My Mustang that had the 148's was running at 4.8V (I accidentally left that part out). I bought CS-70's to run at 6.0V and I'm sure my Corsair will thank me for that. I know my 148's need rebuilding, I'm kinda scared t rebuild and use them in that big bird. When I didn't know better they were fine but now I'm smarter (I think) and don't know what to put back in there. I do have 8 new Futaba 3010's I can use, maybe that's what I should do. What do you think? My Corsair will have 133 oz torque on all flying surfaces. I just think my Mustang deserves more than 44 oz.

Thanks for your opinion.

David

Corsair Brotherhood #3

NCIS

David,

I think the CS-70's will do fine. I am going to put Futaba 3010's in mine for the control surfaces and then 3004's for the rest that don't require much torque. I am putting 3004's all the way around in my 1/8 scale. Do you Guy's think they will work OK? Also I would be leary of using 5 year old servo's unless you did rebuild them. But for the cost of new ones is it worth loosing a great plane that you build and take a lot of pride in. I don't think so. That is just my opinion.

Barry