airracer2004

My Feedback: (16)

I mounted mine at the recommended 4 15/16, which is about where it will be flat against firewall. Mine is a great plane, smooth and tracks straight. It flies a whole lot better than my friends with a evo .52 and he added no extra weight to his and the evo .52 is heaver that the recommened .46 and his flies good too, just a little under powered. Check the lataral balance as the muffler will make it rightside heavy, thats why I put my weights in the left tailfeather. If you need any more help or want pics of my setup, P.M me, i'll be glad to help if I can.

Ernie Misner

Ralph, will the prop or spinner backplate hit the cowling moved that far back?

Ernie

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I'm joining the club guys......[X(] I found one on Ebay and just have to wait to get it. Can't wait to start the build. [8D] Gunna mount a mighty Saito 82 on the front.

Ralph L.

I had to put the engine at the recomened 4 15/16 because the cowl will need to go back to far. With that it is almost impossible to get the clearence you need. So it is now mounted up and I used the pitts style muffler so the engine is mounted with the cylinder head to the left. It did need more cutting to the cowl then I thought it would. So now its all done and for the most part I needed to cut most of the cowling on the left side. Its is for sure all engine on this bad boy. Here a few photos of it but keep in mind I am not finished cleaing it up yet its still rough.

Ernie Misner

VERY awsome Ralph!

Hey for you cowling expert guru guys -- are you doing anything special such as rubber grommets or anything to protect the life of the cowling?

WELCOME aboard Rob. Can't wait to see you wring it out like you did your Kat!!!

Thanks,

Ernie

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Ernie, Hopefully the weather will turn back to more spring like conditions so we can get together and fly..... [8D]

bluehawkbm

Enie, One thing that I do when attaching the cowl is after I drill the holes through the cowl into the fusealage, I remove the cowl then enlarge the holes into the fusealage so I can insert a piece of plastic nirod into the holes. CA these into the holes and cut flush with the fusealage sides. This gives the screws a much better bit and they don't vibrate out. This works much better that just strengtening the holes with CA. I also like to cut thin washers out of a piece of fuel tubing to go on the screw.

Ernie Misner

Thanks Bluehawk. Are you using small provided screws for the cowling or ..... anything better like a servo screw that has more of a built in washer effect over that piece of fuel tubing you have cut?

Do you usually fly your planes without the cowl the 1st time out to get the engine tuned and bugs out?

Thanks,

Ernie

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

I've seen some grommets on the web that are made for cowls but they are pricey.

bluehawkbm

Enie, Servo screws work great for attaching the cowl, but on the Reactor I used the screws that came with the kit with the small washers. When using the fuel tubing washer, I first put on a small metal washer and then the fuel tubing washer on the screw. Dont overtighten the screw. Tighten until the fuel tubing washer compresses pretty good, but dont over do it.
Much more important than the fuel tubing washer which is optional is the nirod glued into the screw holes. This works very well and is easy as pie to do. The screw won't vibrate out of the nirod inserts and I know from experience that loose screws on a cowl will quickly eat the cowl up.

Ernie Misner

I think I have some small yellow Sullivan nyrod. I'll take a peek. Thanks!

Ernie

zeng62

I am just finishing up my REACTOR, I am using a TOWER 75, motor on hand and broke in.
If anyone is interested I will post some pictures, but someone will have to explain step by step how to post pics on this site.
Looks like a great airplane, a lot better than the U-CAN-DO series, have a 46 size and wasn't that impressed.

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

Pictures are fairly easy to post. Just below the text area that you post a message in you'll see "click here to upload images and files" Click on that and you'll see a box that comes up that has 12 boxes that say "browse". When you click on the browse boxes you'll have a box come up that says "choose file" and also "look in". You'll see a drop down arrow on the right and probably several files like "documents" or "my pictures". Anyway where ever you're pictures are located you can open that file and see that links to the pictures. Then just double click on the specific picture and the link to it will appear in the "browse" box. Once you've loaded those into the browse boxes click OK at the bottom and wait untill you get another OK signifying that they are uploaded. Then just click OK to post. [8D] I probably made it sound harder than it is but it's simple.

Ralph L.

Hey guys Ralph here again. I am wondering where the best place to start with the C.G. is? Or is the setting for C.G. in the book a good one. I know a lot of you guys have flown yours alredy and have found that sweet spot for balanceing. And in the back of the book under Rate settings their are 3? All planes that I have built have a High rate setting and a Low rate setting. Where is the best setting for Low rates and witch one is good for high rates. I see it says High rate/ Low rate/ 3D rate. I am thinking maybe Low rate settings and the 3D rates I dont know. Here is another pic of the cowling all cut and in place ready to go. But since I had to cut it up so much I am now thinking I mite mount the motor upside down with the factory muffler. So I can get a cleaner look but I don't really know yet.Please give me some thoughts on these pics please.

JustErik

Ralph,

It doesn't look bad to me. But if you now mount it upside down, you'll be left with a huge hole in the side of your cowl and will have to cut away even more on the bottom. I'd probably leave it the way it is unless you plan to get a new cowl. I can't wait to hear your flight report on how it does with that monster on the nose. What is your all up weight as it sits right now?

As far as the rates, mine is STILL waiting to maiden, but I'm going with the low and high rates as published and will adjust from there. Mine is balanced at the front of the published CG range and I will adjust from there to my liking.

Ernie Misner

Ralph, don't change a thing!!!!! You have done a great job and that Pitts type muffler is lightweight and fits in there like a glove.

Great instructions Rob. You'd make a good moderator just like you make a good instructor pilot.

Ernie

bluehawkbm

Ralph,
If your going to fly 3D and your transmitter has no 3 way switches I'd go with the 3D rates for high and set your low rate between the low and high rate recommended.

Ernie Misner

Or start out with low rates and keep increasing your high rate as you get comfortable with the plane.

Ernie

Celidon

Hey All! I am back to work on my Reactor after putting together my Twist 60 from Hanger 9. I am having two problems:

First, I am still having trouble getting the mechanical mix of my elevator halves right. I may sell off my old radio and my electric planes and get a Futaba 9C Super. That should fix it, but I would still like to get this mechanical mix correct.

My second problem is that my Evolution 46, which survived a crash last fall, is losing fuel at the prop shaft. I replaced the front bearing which did stem the tide a bit, but I am still seeing some leakage. Any ideas?

Ernie Misner

By mechanical mix do you mean you are using a "servo reversing Y cord"? Or?

What engine did you go with on the 60 size Twist? In the new MAN they use a Saito 82 and say they love it, hover at 1/3 throttle, etc., and it came out at 6.3 lb. The 82 seems kind of small for a 60 size plane though.

Thanks,

Ernie

Celidon

Yeah, I have the Y-harness adn am trying to set teh mix by adjusting the connectors. It sucks.

I put the Evo 61 in teh twist. It is not a true 60 size plane with a 58" wingspan. I think it will scream. Any idea about my 46 leakage problem?

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Ernie. Looking forward to us flying our Reactors together!

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

You'll like the 9C. It's a great radio and you can do just about any thing with. I love mine.

bluehawkbm

Celidon, If you will go ahead and get the Futaba 9CAPS you will save yourself grief now and much more later on. Most all planes these days use two servos for the elevators. I know you hate to cough up $399 for a radio, but trust me, it will be one of the very best RC investments that you ever made. I really don't know I made it as long as I did without one. JR also makes some super radios but for the money and features I don't believe you can do better than the Futaba 9CAPS.

Ralph L.

Wow I got this plane all done now with the Tower .61 on the front. You wanted to know what this thing weights I think you mite not want to know (7.0lbs). This thing is like a brick with wings I mite need to put the .47 gms on here instead. But when all finished it only need a 1/4 oz to balance out. When I set up the elevators I used a y-harness that makes them work together it is made buy (EXEPERT ELECTRONICS). All is good on low rates when I flip the switch to high rates and with out touching anything just the elevators seem to jitter a litte. When I flip it back to low all is good ant thoughts. I noticed it has a small phillips screw it looks like it is on a transitter for the reverse side. But I don't know if I should touch it does anyone know anything about these type of reverser??