Tomcat_104

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Winston,

Will you eat a bag of cookies and make them them for me? Wait a minute, maybe I should eat the cookies and send you the plastic containers!

David
Corsair Brotherhood #3

NCIS

cimara,

How did you make the covers over the lenses? Are they metal or thin plywood? They look great h..l the whole wing looks great. I want to copy it.

Gibbs

cimara

Thanks
The covers are 1/64 ply the reflectors are out of the cheap mag light rip offs you can get at autozone they are about 2 bucks .I will be usind high intensity leds part # RL5-W8045 White LED at this web sight http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...i?product=LEDS for the lights with covers to get the color i need http://www.keyelco.com/products/prod...bCategoryID=56. To make the cover first drill a hole with a fosner bit the correct size you need .I stacked a hole buch up together and clamped them then drill all at once then cut the outer circle with a band saw and sand smooth

timothy thompson

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well i just got back from lying my i/7 and 1/5 p-47. great stuff! i am glassing the sair so its in its ugly sticky stage

timothy thompson

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flying not lying. alsoi i LOST MY TAIL ROTOR SERVO IN FLIGHT BUT GOT IT DOWN IN ONE PIECE (GAS HELI) I LOVE SPRING

rt3232

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Hi guys

Been trying to figure a way to make formation lite lenses and basels with out spending $$$ on mtl I may not use again.

Here is what I found, the acrylic I used in this test is .030 way to heavy but the samples I maide turned out just right for my project, (will use .015 or .010 for finished lenes) dremal tool with a ball gringing stone, made a pocket in a piece of 2X2 then rounded a dowel to match, heated the sample a 1inch square till it just started to curel, layed it over the pocket and hand pressed the dowel into the acrylic. also found "tamiya color" bottle indicatec it clear, acrylic paint at the train hobby shop, now all I have to do is figure a way to cut the basels the right size, hear are pic's

asammut

is sheeting the fuz with 1/8 balsa necessary if you are going to do a fiberglass finish? ie can you use a bit thinner balsa ?

rt3232

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Asammut

On my secound bird I used 3/32, but I chose a harder grade, mabe med/hard best way to discribe it.

Cheers Bob T

Corsair Brotherhood #5

Tomcat_104

My Feedback: (42)

And I too chose 3/32 but a medium grade. I decided that all of the needed hardness would come from the fiberglass and the resin. That's the way I did my GS Mustang too ant it worked great.

David
Corsair Brotherhood #3

devens

I am laying out my Robart retracts in the wing. Are you guys placing the front edge of the retract even with the end of the wood mounting rail? Also what is everyone doing about the retract leading end bolts being taller than the sheeting surface. ie. the moutning bolts stick out and interfear with the strut cover framing. Its like I should have used 1/8" thiner or lower mounting rails.

rt3232

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Hi Devens

Back in the front end of the thread I think I posted pic's of how I did mine, but to discribe it, I made new beams out of some maple and staped them down into the wing so the top of the screw were a hair below the rib surface, and I also tapprered them to tip the gear fwd just enough to put the axle right under the leading edge. I think some of the guys trimmed the tops and added on underneth, and the only real additional advantage to making new is you can also extend them about 3/16.


Hope this helps

Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood #5

timothy thompson

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bezel

rt3232

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Thats why I had such bad grades in english, my type writer and now this computer still can't spell, thanks for vary good secretaries whill in 50 + years in industrary

timothy thompson

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either can i, being a pilot i just knew that was not right

rt3232

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Tim
Now that thats settled. got eny ideas on cutting bezels not sure of the dim's yet an ID of about 7/32 OD 15/32 may have to go to scrap metal yard and see if I can find some s/s tubing to sharpen for punches.

Cheers Bob T

Corsair Brotherhood #5

cimara

how about these punches http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3838 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47734 They might do pretty good to cut that plastic .These might do good to shape them http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93539 .I dont know about you all but every time i walk in a harbor freight store i come out with twice what i whent in there for .I have used the second set of puches before on stainless shim stock and they work great Just pricey

cimara

i have also found these here but i dont know what scale they are http://www.aero-accessories.com/Builders.html

timothy thompson

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i used wingspan lights they came with bezels go to their website. its an awesome thing

timothy thompson

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i used wingspan lights they came with bezels go to their website. its an awesome thing

rt3232

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Hay Cimara Thanks for reminding me about Harbor frright will pick up those punches, still have to figure a way to index so the bezel looks right, looks like play time.


PS guys this info is for the 47, I am not putting lights on board just trying to sim them, when if I redo the covering on the sair may try to add lights.

Tim are the bezels with your lights scale for 1/5 size, if so what are there dim's?? looked at them at toledo, but at the time they were not on my list(another blonde moment) and I aint blond just lots of gray

Field has dryed out so now if the wind quits to somthing below 15 may get to start flying.

Cheers Bob T

devens

crud... I was afraid of that....wheres my dremel?

Guys,

When laying up your gear doors with glass do you apply the multiple layers in one step or do you let the glass dry between layers. I just did my tail wheel doors and I let the layers dry (not totally cure) between layers. I would like to speed this process up and don't see a reason not to do all layers at once.

Also approx. how many OZ's of resin does it take to cover the plane not including extras? I want to have enough on hand to complete once I start. BTW I am using Zap finishing resin.

rt3232

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I am not sure how outhers do theres, but being master pattern maker in my vary early working years, I'll try to discribe my method I an sure the newer guys may have a quicker a way, but it works for me, any way if you want the doors to match the skins, I iron on a piece of mono-coat with about 3 extra inches all around, then add stright pins in the corners or any ware for refferance points, fog on a coat of pam, then cover/use plaster of paris, the area with a thin coat of plaster let it sit 10 min, make another batch of plaster and build up area to about 1/2 thicknes, I let it set over nite. pop the plaster off the surface, this give you an exact female surface of the area you want to copy, using the pin head points lay out your doors hatches what ever in pencil first (double check your layout) once you are satisfied use a sharp pointed scrib and cut in the lines a good 1/16 deep, use a cheep paint brush to keep your mold clean. WIPING WITH A TOWEL OR CLOTH MY SCRATCH I then apply 2 coats of lacqure sealer once that is totaly dry, fog it with pam and make your lay up, I start with 1 layer of .75 oz cloth and I use 30 min epoxy thined with denatured alcohl to a thin syurp. I generaly add 2 layersof 7oz cloth, 1layer of cloth and one of mat depending on how thick and stiffit should be, I try to let each layer set to a tacky feel befor adding the next layer also if you let it set clear up you may have to wipe the surface with acatoneto remove the wax that some epoxys make when curing out, at this point I let it cure for 24 hrs or till there is NO tackeness (just be care full with your mixes and you will be good to go) Now you pop your laminate from the plaster if you did everything right you have a door or hatch what ever.

This sounds like a lot of work but you spend most of your time waiting for things to dry or setup

Hope this helps

Cheers Bob T

asammut

gday dave, can you tell me if you made the jolly rodger markings yourself or can they be purchased.
thanks
or maybe anyone can advise where to aquire a set of decals from?
thanks
andrew

timothy thompson

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they are slightly smaller than scale but look so good. im at the red spot primer stage god it is ugly now. you have to apply the putty in sections let it dry then do another. When the entire plane is covered then comes the fun . SANDING and filling in low spots and priming

rt3232

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Tim
What brand of putty are you using??