GWS Slow Stick Survey
#176
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
ORIGINAL: Diesel_Flyer
Hey Timepilot! I'm in your neighborhood this week. Gotta love Vancouver and the legal Cuban cigars!
Hey Timepilot! I'm in your neighborhood this week. Gotta love Vancouver and the legal Cuban cigars!
At least we don't get tornados that destroy buildings, or winds that knock 'em down, or floods that washes them away, or bugs that eat them, or snow that buries them, or.....
#177
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
The Optic 6 also can be set either QPCM or PPM modulation, if it's not set for the receiver you are using it will give problems like you describe.It also has Pos or Neg transmit shift. Also the transmitter should be set for Mode 2 for North American use. If any of these are not set right you will have problems
Hope this helps,
\Lee
Hope this helps,
\Lee
#178
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
I'll go home today and check these things out.
Part of the problem is navigating the settings on the Optic 6. its VERY confusing. I've seen something in there regarding PPM and the other.
I see that the spectra module mentions both.
I dunno what the receiver is or how (yet) to set the Optic to do a certain one.
Part of the problem is navigating the settings on the Optic 6. its VERY confusing. I've seen something in there regarding PPM and the other.
I see that the spectra module mentions both.
I dunno what the receiver is or how (yet) to set the Optic to do a certain one.
#179
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
What I did was to be sure my Optic was set for Mode 2 then I set it for QPCM and set for Pos shift. Then I turned on the receiver and checked operation, then if not go to QPCM Neg shift, then try PPM Pos and Neg. One of these will work for you. The Optic 6 has lots of setting but it will work with ANY receiver on the 72 Mhz band.
Lee
Lee
#180
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
Ok, here is what I have and have tried so far.
A I HAD the RX and the ESC mounted above the battery on those mount points.
I pulled the RX loose and moved it out in front of the front wing mount just to get it away from everything.
I took the TX and went through the 4 combinations of PPM and the other and N and P.
I found that PPM N seems to work best.
Basically, when I fully extend the antenna, the prop seems to stop spurting, let the antenna in and it spurts.
Obvious I will fly with the antenna out, but when I'm sitting within 2 feet, I wouldn't think that would make a difference.
I wanted to mention that because I thought it could be an indicator.
Also, I have found that both servos twitch constantly. When I say twitch, they basically make a little noise constantly. I thought it was just one, but I unplugged it and the other does iit as well. I can put my hands on em and feel em vibrating.
I actually bought 3 servos in this total order, I plugged in the third and it does the same. Its not the servos.
I wouldn't think its a RX issue since BOTH servo ports are doing this, but I guess thats possible.
Thats how far I've gotten so far.
A I HAD the RX and the ESC mounted above the battery on those mount points.
I pulled the RX loose and moved it out in front of the front wing mount just to get it away from everything.
I took the TX and went through the 4 combinations of PPM and the other and N and P.
I found that PPM N seems to work best.
Basically, when I fully extend the antenna, the prop seems to stop spurting, let the antenna in and it spurts.
Obvious I will fly with the antenna out, but when I'm sitting within 2 feet, I wouldn't think that would make a difference.
I wanted to mention that because I thought it could be an indicator.
Also, I have found that both servos twitch constantly. When I say twitch, they basically make a little noise constantly. I thought it was just one, but I unplugged it and the other does iit as well. I can put my hands on em and feel em vibrating.
I actually bought 3 servos in this total order, I plugged in the third and it does the same. Its not the servos.
I wouldn't think its a RX issue since BOTH servo ports are doing this, but I guess thats possible.
Thats how far I've gotten so far.
#181
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
Rhizzlebop,
Sorry, hadn't check this thread in a while and did not see your cry for help.
The SS assembly should be straightforward. When you talk about aileron, you really mean elevator, isn't it? Ailerons are deflection surfaces attached to the wing. Which part of the horizontal tail is warped, the fixed one (named horizontal stabilizer) or the mobile one (elevator)? How severe is the warp? The fixed part will need a spar to strenghten it so the warp will not matter, as the spar will hold it straight. For spars, I used wood coffee stirrers, but bamboo skewers work equally good.
Anyway, the tail surfaces can be cut again from meat trays or corrugated plastic or something else that's reasonably light (even balsa).
Regarding the radio, you need to set the TX to match your CH56 F RX. You said that you finally managed to set the spectra module on CH56, but please check again. All you have to do is to unplug the module and, using a small flat screwdriver, to rotate the small yellow dials to show 5 (first digit) and 6 (second digit).
Then, in the model setup phase (i.e. what you get when turn on the TX while pushing both EDIT buttons), you select AGCL, MODE 2 (i.e. throttle and rudder on the left cymbal and aileron and elevator on the right cymbal), PPM and SFT.N. This is because Futaba's shift is negative. B.t.w., you will control the plane with the rudder servo plugged in the aileron RX channel (#1), the elevator servo connected to the elevator RX channel (#2) and the ESC plugged in the throttle channel (#3). The RX has labels for its channels, just follow the above setting and make sure you use the right polarity (some plugs use brown-red-orange, some black-red-white; black is the same as brown and white is the same as orange).
You always turn on first the TX and the plug in the plane's battery. Otherwise, if the RX doesn't get the signal, it may put out garbage signals, possibly turning on the motor.
As TimePilot said, since you seem to have issues with the electrical setup, it may be useful to lay outside the plane all the plane's electrical components: motor (sans prop), ESC, RX, servos and battery. It helps with the debugging.
Get back to us after trying what I wrote about the TX setup.
Serban
Sorry, hadn't check this thread in a while and did not see your cry for help.
The SS assembly should be straightforward. When you talk about aileron, you really mean elevator, isn't it? Ailerons are deflection surfaces attached to the wing. Which part of the horizontal tail is warped, the fixed one (named horizontal stabilizer) or the mobile one (elevator)? How severe is the warp? The fixed part will need a spar to strenghten it so the warp will not matter, as the spar will hold it straight. For spars, I used wood coffee stirrers, but bamboo skewers work equally good.
Anyway, the tail surfaces can be cut again from meat trays or corrugated plastic or something else that's reasonably light (even balsa).
Regarding the radio, you need to set the TX to match your CH56 F RX. You said that you finally managed to set the spectra module on CH56, but please check again. All you have to do is to unplug the module and, using a small flat screwdriver, to rotate the small yellow dials to show 5 (first digit) and 6 (second digit).
Then, in the model setup phase (i.e. what you get when turn on the TX while pushing both EDIT buttons), you select AGCL, MODE 2 (i.e. throttle and rudder on the left cymbal and aileron and elevator on the right cymbal), PPM and SFT.N. This is because Futaba's shift is negative. B.t.w., you will control the plane with the rudder servo plugged in the aileron RX channel (#1), the elevator servo connected to the elevator RX channel (#2) and the ESC plugged in the throttle channel (#3). The RX has labels for its channels, just follow the above setting and make sure you use the right polarity (some plugs use brown-red-orange, some black-red-white; black is the same as brown and white is the same as orange).
You always turn on first the TX and the plug in the plane's battery. Otherwise, if the RX doesn't get the signal, it may put out garbage signals, possibly turning on the motor.
As TimePilot said, since you seem to have issues with the electrical setup, it may be useful to lay outside the plane all the plane's electrical components: motor (sans prop), ESC, RX, servos and battery. It helps with the debugging.
Get back to us after trying what I wrote about the TX setup.
Serban
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
gigelus2k3, you are a saint and a boon to the hobby. I personally have come close to pulling out my hair with a few ESC's and the "Chinglish" instructions.
#185
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
Number of cells: ____3____ What brand/mAh: ___LiPo 3300_____
ESC model: ___Phoenix 25_____
Servos: ____Hobbico Mini____
Transmitter/Receiver: ___Futaba 7CAP_____
Motor (stock or...): __E-Flite Park 400 inrunner aluminum gearbox 6.6:1_____
Modifications: ___re-inforced wing- clear packing tape around gear to prevent squat and receiver mounted with electrical tape, some paper clips, runbber bands, spit, etc._____
Flight time: Too long. 1 hour 1/2 throttle
15X10 prop
Comments on flight characteristics: ____Ballistic_____ Will lift my dog.
ESC model: ___Phoenix 25_____
Servos: ____Hobbico Mini____
Transmitter/Receiver: ___Futaba 7CAP_____
Motor (stock or...): __E-Flite Park 400 inrunner aluminum gearbox 6.6:1_____
Modifications: ___re-inforced wing- clear packing tape around gear to prevent squat and receiver mounted with electrical tape, some paper clips, runbber bands, spit, etc._____
Flight time: Too long. 1 hour 1/2 throttle
15X10 prop
Comments on flight characteristics: ____Ballistic_____ Will lift my dog.
#186
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
I am having a problem with GWS ICS-400F mounted on Slow Stick.
Every time I give it a juice (electric current), it stops with RED lamp ON.
I do not know what to do, does anyone have any idea?
My slow stick setting.
Motor EPS400
Battery :8.4V NiMH 3000mAH
REceiver: GWS R4PII
Every time I give it a juice (electric current), it stops with RED lamp ON.
I do not know what to do, does anyone have any idea?
My slow stick setting.
Motor EPS400
Battery :8.4V NiMH 3000mAH
REceiver: GWS R4PII
#187
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RE: GWS <span class=
ORIGINAL: shades
Number of cells: ______3__ What brand/mAh: __1500/kokam______
ESC model: __pixie 20p______
Servos: gws________
Transmitter/Receiver: ___gws or jr r700_____
Motor (stock or...): _stock/ astro a10_______
Modifications: ________glue front spars and and glue back spars and glue wing haves together, put foam reinforcment on rudder
Comments on flight characteristics: ___best flying plane ever!______
if you need tips on modifications i'am your man! i'am the slow stick master
Number of cells: ______3__ What brand/mAh: __1500/kokam______
ESC model: __pixie 20p______
Servos: gws________
Transmitter/Receiver: ___gws or jr r700_____
Motor (stock or...): _stock/ astro a10_______
Modifications: ________glue front spars and and glue back spars and glue wing haves together, put foam reinforcment on rudder
Comments on flight characteristics: ___best flying plane ever!______
if you need tips on modifications i'am your man! i'am the slow stick master
I need to beef up the landing gear. I have a hacker 20-20L brushless outrunner on the front, a 3s 1320 lipo, I forget whose 25amp esc and two S-55 servos. The motor (obviously) and the battery are forward of the wing. The batt is "just" forward of the wing. The ESC is below the battery on the bottom of the fuselage. The stock landing gear just splays out on lading. I made some new gear out of 1/16 by 3/4 alum flat bar with two 3" foam wheels. That worked awesome... until I had a hard landing in some strong wind. The landing gear held up just fine, but the fuselage bent downward just aft of the 3/4 inch wide landing gear. Roughly speaking, the landing gear was mounted right in front of the wing. What have you done to beef up the landing gear, if anything. Anyone else?
Thanks
MikeC
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
Number of cells: 3 What brand/mAh: TP 1320 prolite
ESC model: Castle Phoenix 25
Servos: HS55's
Transmitter/Receiver: Tx Optic 6 Rx Berg 4L
Motor (stock or...): Hyperion 2213-24
Modifications: The Usual, brass tubes, epoxied wing joint, packing tape.
Hand launches at about 1/2 throttle, cruises at "WOT stock" speed at about 1/4 throttle, it will go vertical longer than I want.
With good throttle control I can go a half hour with juice to spare, flying hard about 15 minutes.
I was going to chop the wings last weekend, but got it stuck about 75 feet up a maple tree last weekend, it is still there today
[:@]
Kiiski
ESC model: Castle Phoenix 25
Servos: HS55's
Transmitter/Receiver: Tx Optic 6 Rx Berg 4L
Motor (stock or...): Hyperion 2213-24
Modifications: The Usual, brass tubes, epoxied wing joint, packing tape.
Hand launches at about 1/2 throttle, cruises at "WOT stock" speed at about 1/4 throttle, it will go vertical longer than I want.
With good throttle control I can go a half hour with juice to spare, flying hard about 15 minutes.
I was going to chop the wings last weekend, but got it stuck about 75 feet up a maple tree last weekend, it is still there today
[:@]
Kiiski
#189
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RE: GWS <span class=
ORIGINAL: MikeC557
I need to beef up the landing gear. I have a hacker 20-20L brushless outrunner on the front, a 3s 1320 lipo, I forget whose 25amp esc and two S-55 servos. The motor (obviously) and the battery are forward of the wing. The batt is "just" forward of the wing. The ESC is below the battery on the bottom of the fuselage. The stock landing gear just splays out on lading. I made some new gear out of 1/16 by 3/4 alum flat bar with two 3" foam wheels. That worked awesome... until I had a hard landing in some strong wind. The landing gear held up just fine, but the fuselage bent downward just aft of the 3/4 inch wide landing gear. Roughly speaking, the landing gear was mounted right in front of the wing. What have you done to beef up the landing gear, if anything. Anyone else?
Thanks
MikeC
I need to beef up the landing gear. I have a hacker 20-20L brushless outrunner on the front, a 3s 1320 lipo, I forget whose 25amp esc and two S-55 servos. The motor (obviously) and the battery are forward of the wing. The batt is "just" forward of the wing. The ESC is below the battery on the bottom of the fuselage. The stock landing gear just splays out on lading. I made some new gear out of 1/16 by 3/4 alum flat bar with two 3" foam wheels. That worked awesome... until I had a hard landing in some strong wind. The landing gear held up just fine, but the fuselage bent downward just aft of the 3/4 inch wide landing gear. Roughly speaking, the landing gear was mounted right in front of the wing. What have you done to beef up the landing gear, if anything. Anyone else?
Thanks
MikeC
The landing gear needs to be springy, as you found out. The solution is to use the original thin wire and use a cross brace at about 1/3 of the wire length (measured from the LG mount). This triangle structure will stiffen the LG just enough to not spread out.
The brace can be anything (CF, balsa stick, another piano wire). For the joint you can use kevlar thread soaked in CA.
Serban
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
Number of cells: ________ 3 cell lipo What brand/mAh: ________ 2200mah parkflyers
ESC model: ________ 20amp eflight
Servos: ________ GWS micro
Transmitter/Receiver: ________ Parkflyers
Motor (stock or...): ________ Eflight 400 brushless 920kV
Modifications: ________ Brushless lipo, better landing gear
Comments on flight characteristics: This plane flies great in theory but as soon as a slight breezes comes by its all over the place and not a fun experience at all. I bought this plane 2 weeks ago I had flown foamies and other rc planes before but this planes has been the worst exp ever it has not any wind balance whatsoever, in my 10-15 flight attempts I have gotten maybe 1 ½ mins of flight time, for a massive 12-20 hours in repair time, it seems with this plane you are fixing it more than you are ever flying it, but if you live in the void of space with no wind this is the plane for you =), ether that or fly it in the thunder dome. Otherwise it’s just an out of control kite with motor getting blown around in 5-10mph winds. 12+ broken props. 2 broken fuselages 1 striped servo, yes cg the plane slightly nose heavy its just doesn’t fly like a pits bi that can cut though head winds this plane wants to fly straight up like helicopter in wind and when it realizes its not one its in the ground a few seconds latter from a stall. Over all if your new to rc don’t buy this buy a pitts foamy bi plane it flies 100x better.
ESC model: ________ 20amp eflight
Servos: ________ GWS micro
Transmitter/Receiver: ________ Parkflyers
Motor (stock or...): ________ Eflight 400 brushless 920kV
Modifications: ________ Brushless lipo, better landing gear
Comments on flight characteristics: This plane flies great in theory but as soon as a slight breezes comes by its all over the place and not a fun experience at all. I bought this plane 2 weeks ago I had flown foamies and other rc planes before but this planes has been the worst exp ever it has not any wind balance whatsoever, in my 10-15 flight attempts I have gotten maybe 1 ½ mins of flight time, for a massive 12-20 hours in repair time, it seems with this plane you are fixing it more than you are ever flying it, but if you live in the void of space with no wind this is the plane for you =), ether that or fly it in the thunder dome. Otherwise it’s just an out of control kite with motor getting blown around in 5-10mph winds. 12+ broken props. 2 broken fuselages 1 striped servo, yes cg the plane slightly nose heavy its just doesn’t fly like a pits bi that can cut though head winds this plane wants to fly straight up like helicopter in wind and when it realizes its not one its in the ground a few seconds latter from a stall. Over all if your new to rc don’t buy this buy a pitts foamy bi plane it flies 100x better.
#191
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
Xiola6969
I can't see how you could have trouble with this plane if you are using a brushless outrunner and 3 cell li-poly as you indicate you are. I have the same set up except my motor is a Hacker 20-20L. I can NOT stall it out as you describe, it simply climbs for the sky until I lose orientation/sp and have to turn downward. It is my first plane and I admit that on a strong windy day its like herding cats but I can fly head on into the wind with the Hacker and a 3-cell. And of course on a strong windy day, we beginners probably have no business out flying.
On a low wind day I get about 15-20 minutes of fly time on a 3cell 1320mah, more on calm days, and somewhat less on a hard windy day. While I still describe myself as a beginner, I can fly on strong windy days now. Frankly, I enjoy it.
Personally, I think it is a good first plane IF the beginner changes it to a brushless setup like you and I have. (I admit I never tried the brushed setup) With the brushless setup, I can fly extremely slowly or very fast. I have never had repair time.... except when I totalled it on day-5 of learning to fly. I hit full throttle on take off (unintentionally) and did a 10-foot loop from about a 9-foot altitude... right into the trunk of my friend's car. I broke the fuselage and it was easier to buy another $24 full plane kit then to try to "repair." Now I have extra parts.
Newbies, don't be scared off by this plane. Find someone who owns one, and enjoys it, and see for yourself what it will do.
MikeC
I can't see how you could have trouble with this plane if you are using a brushless outrunner and 3 cell li-poly as you indicate you are. I have the same set up except my motor is a Hacker 20-20L. I can NOT stall it out as you describe, it simply climbs for the sky until I lose orientation/sp and have to turn downward. It is my first plane and I admit that on a strong windy day its like herding cats but I can fly head on into the wind with the Hacker and a 3-cell. And of course on a strong windy day, we beginners probably have no business out flying.
On a low wind day I get about 15-20 minutes of fly time on a 3cell 1320mah, more on calm days, and somewhat less on a hard windy day. While I still describe myself as a beginner, I can fly on strong windy days now. Frankly, I enjoy it.
Personally, I think it is a good first plane IF the beginner changes it to a brushless setup like you and I have. (I admit I never tried the brushed setup) With the brushless setup, I can fly extremely slowly or very fast. I have never had repair time.... except when I totalled it on day-5 of learning to fly. I hit full throttle on take off (unintentionally) and did a 10-foot loop from about a 9-foot altitude... right into the trunk of my friend's car. I broke the fuselage and it was easier to buy another $24 full plane kit then to try to "repair." Now I have extra parts.
Newbies, don't be scared off by this plane. Find someone who owns one, and enjoys it, and see for yourself what it will do.
MikeC
#192
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
I figure out allot of the problem the battery I am using is pretty darn huge for this plane so it had to be mounted nearly under the motor to fly right, also I had to give it over half throttle to give it enough thrust to fly properly. I was flying it super slow at like 1/3 throttle flies slow but wind will kicked it around at that speed 3/4 throttle as the man above me said (allot more stable), got a few torque rolls in and few loops before crashing again, to lose the second servo...(online kit Very cheap servos) will be installing new servo and servo savers to help my wallet a bit as the servos that where put in the kit had the stickers torn off no telling what kind they are so replacement gears are impossible (learned my online ebay exp) local or reputable online hobby all the way. ebay= too many scams.
#193
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
I'm not sure if you ever got yours in the air but I have a SlowStick with a stick mount B/L Motor, Part # 2407-21-H, $16.99 US, HS Programmable ESC, $25.99 US, 1350 mah Li-Po, $40.00 US. All driven by a Futaba 8 Ch. Heli Radio, with d/r of course. The Stick responds SO well with the B/L Motor that you alnose never get into enough trouble that it won't pull you out of. Another thing I have noticed is that most people have their batteries mounted behind the wheels, mine wouldn't balance there, my Li-Po os mounted about mid-way between the motor and wheel/wing mount. This thing will land downwind dead stick just as gently as you could ever want! I bought the motor/esc at greenmodels.com if anyone is interested.
p-s...I can take off with about 1/4 throttle and criuse with about as much...the batteries last longer than I can stand there and fly..lol
p-s...I can take off with about 1/4 throttle and criuse with about as much...the batteries last longer than I can stand there and fly..lol
#194
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
JJeter:
You forgot to tell us what prop you use to get this good performance.
Also, What elevation do you fly at?
I fly at 6000 ft and need more thrust than most folks flying at sea level.
I never see anybody talking about this issue.
Ernie
You forgot to tell us what prop you use to get this good performance.
Also, What elevation do you fly at?
I fly at 6000 ft and need more thrust than most folks flying at sea level.
I never see anybody talking about this issue.
Ernie
#195
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
I am using the stock prop that came with it. 11 x whatever it is and I'm basically at sea level on east Texas. Also, I went looking and found another B/L Motor & ESC, both for $28.00 +$2.00 shipping on E-Bay from heads_up_rc Needless to say I bought one for a spare. It is the one recommended for the SS. Mostly all I was saying that I have never been able to fly a plane before and if I can fly this thing at my age, then most anybody can learn to fly the SS. I do fly helicopters quite well but planes have always eluded my expertise. Weird World huh...LMAO!
#197
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
eghershey:::Hang in there my bub as you don't want ANY wind on you madien!you might as well go fish'in in the rain, good luck! your bub,scoooper
#198
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
ORIGINAL: Billiam411
I just built the Slow Stick kit and I'm looking for a good setup. I've flown before.
What's your setup:
Number of cells: __3______ What brand/mAh: ___commonsenseR/C_____
ESC model: __WOW 18 amp Brusless______
Servos: ___2 GWS Nano_____
Transmitter/Receiver: ___GWS naro_____
Motor (stock or...): __KMS 3128 Brushless______
Modifications: ___none_____
Comments on flight characteristics The brushless mod is the way to go on the Slo-Stik It ROG's in 2 ft and goes straight up forever. Main reason for brushless is I have some homebrew floats and its a ball to take to the lake and fly of water. It will fly for over 30 minutes at 1/4 throttle
- "I failed the quiz!"
Good luck!
I just built the Slow Stick kit and I'm looking for a good setup. I've flown before.
What's your setup:
Number of cells: __3______ What brand/mAh: ___commonsenseR/C_____
ESC model: __WOW 18 amp Brusless______
Servos: ___2 GWS Nano_____
Transmitter/Receiver: ___GWS naro_____
Motor (stock or...): __KMS 3128 Brushless______
Modifications: ___none_____
Comments on flight characteristics The brushless mod is the way to go on the Slo-Stik It ROG's in 2 ft and goes straight up forever. Main reason for brushless is I have some homebrew floats and its a ball to take to the lake and fly of water. It will fly for over 30 minutes at 1/4 throttle
- "I failed the quiz!"
Good luck!
#199
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
Are the several versions of the SS? I just got one thinking it had an aluminum fuse but it is carbon which is the reason I'm giving up my slo V. It just doesn't handle the brushless motor. Anybody have another idea for an aluminum fuse? I can't seem to find anything the correct size.
Thanks,
Adam
Thanks,
Adam
#200
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RE: GWS Slow Stick Survey
I have the fiberglass fusealage and mine flies like a dream!..I'm not sure how the aluminum fuse works...
there are 2 versions it seems like, the fiberglass fuse and the aluminum version, I have the fiberglass version and have no problems using a b/l motor. mine will take off in just a couple of feet if I pour th' coal to it, I prefer to take off with minimum throttle though, but it will just keep climbing out of sight with too much throttle.
you can get a great b/l motor and esc at greenmodelsrc.com for about $35.00 for both or at heads_up_rc on e-bat for about the same, they are the correct size for the SS. Anything else you need to know just respond and I'll try to point u in th' right direction, I do enjoy mine VERY much...Jerry
p-s...tower hobbies has the aliminum fusealage SS and the fiberglass as well.
there are 2 versions it seems like, the fiberglass fuse and the aluminum version, I have the fiberglass version and have no problems using a b/l motor. mine will take off in just a couple of feet if I pour th' coal to it, I prefer to take off with minimum throttle though, but it will just keep climbing out of sight with too much throttle.
you can get a great b/l motor and esc at greenmodelsrc.com for about $35.00 for both or at heads_up_rc on e-bat for about the same, they are the correct size for the SS. Anything else you need to know just respond and I'll try to point u in th' right direction, I do enjoy mine VERY much...Jerry
p-s...tower hobbies has the aliminum fusealage SS and the fiberglass as well.