ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey guy's

Well funny i read that saramos was looking for a scale hach to use because so have i during the whole build and thouht of using the radiator outlet as a hatch but didn't want to add weight to an aircraft that most people were saying came out tail heavy, so in the end i settled for this one below.

It's not a hatch on the full sized one, but it is a panel. I firstly layed up some glass over the area in case i damaged something or wanted to use the glass for the hatch. I then taped around the panel line so i didn't cut the wrong panels out!

Once removed i removed the stinger that was in the way. i also looked at different layouts for all the bits and pieces i wanted to access via the hatch, and this is what i ended up with with the retract filler valve, pressure guage, r/x switches, and the volt meter all in there. i might also put the fuel tank filler in the section forward of the bulkhead.

today i hope to glass the inside section of the balsa hatch for more strenght, and setup the hinges. i need to find a place to get the magnets to hold the hatch down with.

thanks

Cpig

Ticket,
First of all, I have to say incredible job on that mustang!

I've been catching up on this thread because I haven't read it in a long time. Sorry this is a little late but you asked about weights and I see others posting weights of their aircraft. I know you were looking for finished wing weight and I'll get that for you later after I break my scale out again, but here are some other weights that some of you may find useful. I was trying to find out how much weight gain I'd get from polycrylic and glass so these weights at the bottom don't show radio and landing gear, etc...

My total weight, everything installed, ready to fly is 11.5 lbs.

Jeffk464,
You said yours came out to 8.5 lbs?? I think my kit weighed more than that before I put the engine and radio gear in it. Did you use a bathroom scale to measure that? If that is an accurate finished weight, I'm seriously impressed and I want to know how you did it. I've heard of thining some of the parts such as the ribs but I'm not sure how much that would save?



Anyway, here you go from my earlier post:

P-51 Build Weights in Grams (1lb = 453 grams; regular size servo weighs approx. 45 - 50 grams)

Note: Covered with .75oz FG cloth and Polycrylic Water Based Acrylic. Painted with Behr Metallic Silver Acrylic and Nelson Hobbies Water Based Polyurethane.

FUSELAGE:

Sanded Fuse Ready to Cover: 1069
Glassed with .75oz FG and Polycrylic WB: 1125
Bondo 907 and sanded: 1134
1 Coat Primer (unsanded) : 1272
Primer Sanded: 1180
Cockpit added: 1257
2 coats Behr Silver Acrylic: 1282
Paint (all colors) complete 5-6 coats WBPU: 1300
With clear coat (3 coats): 1319

Total gain from glassing and painting (fuselage): Approx. 170 grams

WING:

Sanded Wing Ready to Cover: 1035
Glassed and primer (sanded): 1083
1 coat Behr Silver Acrylic: 1090
All paint added (5-6 coats Nelson WBPU): 1128
Clear coats added (3-4 coats): 1152

Total gain from glassing and painting (wing): Approx. 117 grams

TOTAL GAIN FROM COVERING (ENTIRE AIRCRAFT): 287 Grams / .63 lbs

jeffk464

Yep 8.5 lbs, check out my wing its built like a 3d plane. You figure the wing has a huge surface area, so if your going to save weight on a finish thats the best place to do it.

saramos

For the fuel filler on my Spit, I placed it in the scale location. It came out pretty good.

Scott

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Oh yeah,

now your talking!!!!

zope_pope

Jeff's P51 will fly like an extra. Didn't consider building the wing like that since I wanted to glass and paint.

Awesome hatches and fuel fillers. Very cool. I have finally finished the elevators and am working on the tail wheel retract. Did you guys go servo or pnuemnatic? I have a 12z that I am flying now that can delay all the channels, so I think a micro servo will save weight.

chalre

IB BUCK,

What I did is I made some large square "U" shaped mounts out of plywood and attached them to more of the ribs. I then made triagle shaped supports that attched the ribs on the opposite side of the wing (the mounts are on the bottom side of the wing, so I made supports that attched to the top of the wing as well). i had to then re sheet the wing and smooth it out with filler and re-cover. The gear fit perfectly and the mounts are probably the strongest part of the wing. If I have confused you please let me know.

zope_pope

Hey everyone,

Does anyone have some good pictures of their tail wheel setup. The ones on this thread all had modified wires, and I wasn't able to find anything on how to build the working tail doors. Any help is greatly appreciated. It seems like I keep hitting these road blocks that make my build come to a stand still. Anyhow, hope everyone had a great memorial day weekend!

Adam

manolomartin

Adam:

Following is a link to download the manual of the TF Bechcraft Staggerwing. It shows how to make the complete retractable tailwheel setup, including functional doors, wich is identical as for the P-51:

http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/topa0905-manual.pdf

Hope you find it useful, don't forget to post pictures once you finish it.

Manolo Martin
Mexico

zope_pope

Manolo,

That is a great link. Saves me from rigging servos and what not. Thanks! Does anyone know how much the wheel needs to extend for the radiator scoop to clear? I guess that all depends... Any rough numbers are helpful.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey manolo,

You found the thread! Thanks for that link, what an easy way to do it! And it also adds very little weight too. I'll have to to that to mine when i install the tail wheel doors.


Hey Zope

My tail wheel extends 1 3/4" out and i have about 1 1/2" clearance under the radiator.. Hope that helps but your main gear length will also affect those figures.

thanks

manolomartin

ticketec,

Model Airplane News, October 2004 issue shows same tailwheel setup in TF Giant P-51. Very nice.

zope,

You`ll have to find the right scale tailwheel position. Fix your retract and wheel without gluing and make it work by hand. Observe wheel position when retract is fully extended and then move forward or backwards as needed. Following are some pictures of my P-51 modified for tailwheel retract, hope it helps.

Manolo

zope_pope

Those are excellent pictures. Thanks so much! I've got to get some servos today so I can rig up the steering and retract servo. I am going to use one of the knobs on my 12z to trim the tail wheel separate of the rudder to make ground handling easier. I also have delays on every channel so I can use a servo and still get the slow retract of the tail wheel and flaps. Anyhow, I have set a goal to get the tail wheel installed by the end of tonight. We shall see. Thanks again everyone for the help!

Flying Beagle

what are you guys using to attach your retracts to the ply rails ???

I was going to use 6-32 cap screws & blind nuts,
but with the drilled hole required, it looks like it will take a pretty good chunk out of the cross section of my rails.......

thanks
Beagle

I B BUCK

Beagle

I used just the screws that came with the retracts. I drilled, then tapped the holes. test fit everything again ( because sometimes taps go where THEY want to) I removed everything to put some CA in the holes. reinstalled after CA dried.
I think the rails are week enough without putting bigger holes in them.
earlier on this page chalre was explaining how he beefed up the ralils even more. From following this forum it seems the rails might be a week spot.

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Gents,

I am about to start building the nose, the manual does not tell you if I should cut the chin block and fuselage sides and top to be flush with the firewall but I do believe this is correct. Can anyone confirm this...thanks.

Gord.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Gord,

I did this and it wasn't correct. I ended up having to glue in some extra balsa to make up for it...

Thanks

tlgibson97

I used blind nuts in my gear rails and havent had a problem. I have tore the rails out and bent more gear wires than I want to mention but havent had any problem with the rails breaking. I have had them delaminate but never snap. Having the blind nuts are nice seeing how much I have to remove the gear to fix something. I think I used a 4-40 screw with washers though. But like I said. the weak point is where the rails attach to the ribs. I think I would rather replace a snapped rail then to have to repair the ribs anyways becasue in any case it takes a pretty rough landing to cause that kind of damage. Thats one thing I do have a lot of experience in.

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Ticketec,

Do you have more details?

Thanks,

Gord.

7e7-2005

Hello all! Those are some nice shots you all have right there I am thinking of getting the Top Flite 1/7 P-51 too. The only thing I'm hesitant about is using the glow fuel. On average how much would you guys say the P-51 takes up for each flight? I know that the engine matters too but I just need some rough numbers. Thank you everyone keep up the good work ticketec.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Topflite shows a 14 oz tank on the fuse drawing. Typical size tank for 90-120 four stroke engines. I have a 90 four stroke in a 4*60 with a 14 oz tank, and it will fly around about 15 minutes without getting real low on fuel.

chalre

I have a ys 91 and a 16oz tank. I havent pushed it yet, but I anticipate about 12-16 minutes flying time.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Let's see, 128 ounces in a gallon. $17 per gallon average price. About $00.13 per ounce. Times 14 costs the pilot about $1.82 U.S. per flight if he burns it all.

A little less than twice that will buy a one gallon of gasoline these days. Gasoline having way more energy than glow fuel, an equivalent gas engine doesn't burn near as much. (Never having owned one, I don't have exact figures. Someone else jump in, here, please.) The small gassers are about the same price as the good quality (O.S., Saito) four stroke glows, except that the inverted pitts mufflers that allow them to be cowled in are kinda pricey, and many of them require $50 ignition batteries. Don't forget oil, but that's a minor expense as they run 40:1 these days. (The airplanes don't get near as messy, quite a big benefit, I think.)

I do know for sure that the Evolution 26GT will fit nicely inside the Mustang's cowl and weighs about the same as a 1.20 four stroke glow. I keep lookin at it. Kinda powerful for a plane that size, but one doesn't have to run full throttle all the time, either. One could put a large prop on it to reign it in a bit, and that would look better, scale wise.

Don't have to make up my mind for at least 6 months. Something else equally practical could come along in that time.

Cpig

Gord,
You have to make it a right angle to the fuse. Since the firewall is angled slightly to the right, this will make the fuse sides extend about 1/8 - 3/16" on the right side and they will be closer to flush with the firewall on the left side.

skyriter

What type of muffler would you use with the Evolution 26? Don't think there is enough room for the pitts wrap-around.

Bruce