Heliwreck

[:@] well, Im back, finally I got a hover on my eagle 50 that last for about 6 seconds, it was great! but...you know how this is, another thing will come up after you make some progress, I still cannot figure out the PLT/PIT thing, I think I am getting closer to the right angle for the blades. But overall, there are 3 things that are my major concern:

1) When flying (or trying to fly better say) sometimes the gyro -I assume is the one to blame- kicks up like speeding up, without me touching anything...makes me thing that the gyro might be deffective, I've tried to adjust the delay/limit things, not sure if what I did messed it up worse. If I need to buy a new Gyro what is the best to get? any thoughts?

2) This might sound really weird but it happened...the connecting shaft got fatter!!! I am serious! it is not bent or anything, I had to adjust a screw that came off and had to take the whole thing appart, and it is really difficult to get the connecting shaft back into the tiny hole now. I do not think this is right, I would assume that it would be tight but not that much and I do not want to use a hammer -for obvious reasons- to get the connecting shaft back into place while trying it to fit in every single little hole. suggestions?

3) For what I read in this forum, the motors burn out very easy, that has not been my problem and I am grateful, but...one of the servos gave up, it wont go down, it is one on the back-left side -if looking the helicopter tail-in. Can i repair it -although Im going to try to anyways- and if I cannot repair it, which are the best servos to replace the one I have?

Thank you very much, Im not sure at this point if I want to keep investing on this thing or to get a more expensive helicopter that might be if not easier to fly, higher quality. But at this point in time, this has become a challenge, the heli vs my brain. This is PERSONAL! jaja...

Heliwreck

[:-] well, I fixed the servo, I think will work for sometime at least to give me chance to practice more, and somehow I managed to put the connecting shaft back in place and balanced blades and all that stuff, It worked great, I was checking on the gyro's gain and I hit some plants with the blades, nothing serious but enough to find the wobble back in my heli[:@] and [:@] and more [:@]!!! so, I went back to the working bench and try to get rid of the shakes, I've not been able to do it yet...is the main blades the problem, there is nothing bent....that is good, but how I balance the blades? I really tried everything I knew to do...i know there is something I am missing but do not know what...

Heliwreck

[:@]oh my! this job never ends! well, I tracked down the vibration problems and worked hard to get everything well balanced, everything looked just fine and I was trying to fly again...well...gues what! A POLE FLEW IN FRONT OF MY HELI!!!! now use your imagination...main blades broke into pieces??? nooo!!, tail boom? either!!! but both main blade holders broken as well as the flybar connector and the flybar blade bent...oh well, I will need to stop for now, I am about to move into my new appartment and cannot waste money on my heli sigh!

Well, you have a great day...

Heliwreck...I love my nick! [&:]

IL-RC

Just thought I would include some pics of some custom metal parts I made to replace the chronic issue ball joint issues.
These break WAY too easy! These are not the prettiest but I'm sure you can make something better based off of this process.
Also please note that if you use the exact size brass components I purchased (from Ace hardware) you have to compress one of the ends a bit in the vise to get proper width for easy movement. I used the broken ball and drilled through it and epoxied a small penny nail through to hold it in the center. Total cost was $4.85 and about 1/2 hour of time.
More custom parts to come....

Heliwreck

IL-RC

Great job men! I will do something like that, I repaired my heli and it is ready to go again, it does not look pretty but it works, still I am having a very hard time balancing the blades again...I will resist the temptation of flying it until it is well balanced.

mudgett

I just bought an Eagle 50 which is my first helicopter. I was able to turn it on for about 5 minutes.... The second time I tried turning the main motor did not spin, so I got another one thinking it may have burned out. After installing the new motor I still have the same problem. I have no idea what it might be, I was thinking it could be the dip switches and so now I am not sure what my dip switch settings are supposed to be set too. This is what Currently Have:

ELEV - OFF
AILE - ON
THRO - OFF
RUDD - ON
RUDD mIX - ON
RUD MIX REV - OFF
CCPM/NORM - ON
LOCK - OFF
PIT - OFF
GEAR - OFF

HELP!! I have no idea what i am doing.

James

jtspin

Here are the default DIP switch settings. If your main motor isn't spinning, you may have killed your 4-in-1 (the thing on the helicopter that the motors and servos plug into). Does it smell burnt? If you don't throttle down as soon as your blades hit something it can easily blow your 4-in-1. You can try plugging your main motor into the tail motor slot to make sure the motor is good, or you can plug your known good tail motor into your main motor slot to check your 4-in-1. If your main motor has a diode soldered to it (a black cylindrical thing with a silver stripe on one end) you have to make sure you don't plug your motor in backwards. That can also blow out your 4-in-1. If it has a diode, you may want to take it off until you get things sorted out.

Good luck!
-JT

BrandonHarmon

My Feedback: (33)

Can someone let me know what channel each servo plugs into? Eagle 50. Thanks for the help.

jtspin

The front servo plugs into channel 1, the left into channel 2 and the right into channel 3.

-JT

netdharma

Say, all you Eagle 50 owners—

in case none of you have noticed, that heli IS a Walkera #22e!

It is also re-branded as the Venom 3D, and apparently also re-branded
as the Eagle 50....

Walkera spares should fit it perfectly, so price comparison shopping
is worthwhile. RCandMe, for example, carries Walkera spares in the U.S.

My flying buddy learned a good many of his more advanced flying skills with
a #22e, by the way. He let me fly it and I found it remarkably responsive.
So much so that on the windy day I lifted it off I had to be really careful
not to dump my friend's heli!

His #22e has a strong brushless motor and relies on the gyro on the mixing
board, so the tail wandered more than it does on my heli's. It also has CF
main blades which in his hands makes a difference.

jackel

hello people,
just another newbie here,, recently bought an eagle 50 my first rc heli. got a good deal and have been doing all the research.. after tweeking the tx for rudder, elevator , aileron it still wants to slide (strafe) left , is this a normal deviant..by the way i have been unable to confidently get more than a few inchs off the ground, it just wants to pull left , if i set the trim any further it will slide right.. is there a happy sweet spot that im missing?.. My wife tells me that all the time... anyways one final question does this heli lift straight off the ground or is it all in subtle adjustments to the stick?[8D]
thanks in advance for any tips.....

jtspin

It's normal for all tail rotor helis to want to slide sideways. It's from the tail rotor pushing it to the left. It's more pronounced near the ground, but it's always there. You'll learn to compensate for it on takeoff. You can add a little bit of right tilt to your swash plate (when all the controls on the Tx are centered) to help. In case you didn't know, your Eagle 50 is the same as the Walkera 22E. You can get lots of help in that thread.

-JT

jackel

thanks JT. i had a feeling that this was normal forces at work... will practice compensating
also in addition to the 22e , my research suggests that the venomNR 3d and blade cp. somthing or other? will also serve as good models for study .. is this correct? thanks again

jtspin

The Venom Night Ranger 3D is also a rebadged 22E. The Blade CP is a different heli, but very similar. A lot of what applies to the BCP also applies to the 22E, but the parts for the most part aren't interchangeable.

-JT

Tucson-120%

HeY guys

I just got the new Eagle 50 with lipo from Xheli for 99$ I actualy orderd the walkera 22e but they did'nt have them in stock so they gave me the eagle 50. I have to say I am impressed with this heli, the blades came balanced and the tracking was perfect I just charged the lipo and went flying, it's stable in forward flight and very responsive the piro rate could be a little faster though. One thing I will recommend is to put the batterie up front as far as you can because left alone the the helicopter is way tail heavy. Xheli website says the eagle 50 is an upgrade to the walkera 22e because of electronic quality, I heard the Venom Night Ranger, Eagle 50 and the Walkera 22e are all made in the same factory and are seperated and sold acording to the electronic quality inspections, I think it's probably true because I've owned my share of Walkera helis and not one was ever good out of the box and Im talking about the electronics, Buy the way I've got about 20 flights on this heli and everything works great the lipo doesn't even get hot even after some aggressive flying.

RobBeach

Eagle 50 from Exceed.
Adjustment slider for movement left to right not centering servo, ie the blades.

New helo... had a small crash into the grass... just tipped over basically...
Had to push some linkages back together, but that would have nothing to
do with the problem.

1.) As you look at the helo from the rear (nose front, tail back) as in normal
take off...
Adjustment slider to control movement left and right.
To have the blades level, the slider almost has to be almost all the way over to the
left. If you try to center the fine tuning slider... the blades jam to the right and the servos
make a noise.
The toggle or "stick" to control movement left or right in flight works the servos correctly.

2.) When I first got the helo, I started with everything just like the directions said.
Throttle down, in toggle at top in Normal mode etc etc etc...
Luckily I was holding it by the bottom upside down when I connected the battery...
because it immediately throttled up. Obviously I disconnected the battery.

3.) When the helo is in normal mode, throttle down all the way, and I flip the 3D switch
on the helo throttles up at full speed. This can't be right ?

4.) When throttling up... it takes a while for the tail rotor to spin. And when advancing with
throttle trying to hover I don't seem to be able to get a steady tail. I find it impossible to believe
that the tail rotor is in any way synced that the operator can hold it steady in flight.

I did some searching but couldn't find anything about this topic.
thanks group... It's an eagle 50 from exceed. I'm excited to learn to fly.
I'm pretty good at the simulator... but that ain't flyin'

thanks again.
Rob

jtspin

Hi Rob in OC! Been there many times myself.

Let's see...

1) I know these things say RTF on the box, but they really aren't even close. Here's what you need to do - start by disconnecting the motors, center the sticks on your Tx, power up the Tx and connect the battery to the heli and allow the servos to initialize. Now disconnect the battery from the heli without touching the sticks on the Tx. At this point, your servo arms should be at 90 degrees (parallel to the ground, or maybe slightly upward) and your swash plate should be level front to back and side to side, but that probably won't be the case. First, you need to get the servo arms level. Unscrew the screw that holds the arm on, pop the arm off and put it back on level. You may not be able to get it perfect, so a slight upward tilt is better than downwards. After you do that, you may want to go through the initialization step again to check that they're really in the right place.

Now you need to level your swash plate. Disconnect the connections from the servos to the swash plate and adjust the lengths to level the swash plate by unscrewing to lengthen or screwing it in to shorten it. The connections are really made to only go on one way, but I don't think many people worry about it. If it's really tough to pop the connector back on to the swash plate, try giving it a half a turn and see if it's easier.

Now you need to check the pitch on the blades. They should have no pitch up or down if your left Tx stick was in the middle and your swash plate is level. There should also be about a 1/4" gap between the part of the head that slides up and down as the pitch of the blades is changed and the stationary part of the head. Adjust the lengths of links from the swash plate to the head to get no pitch on the blades and the 1/4" gap. IIRC, the long links give you a fine adjustment and the short links give a more course adjustment.

Once you have everything properly adjusted, try reconnecting the battery with the motors disconnected and check the travel of the servos as you move the sticks around. When you move the right stick in circles, you should see the tilt of the swash plate follow the stick without any binding in the servos. When you move the left stick up and down, the head should move down and up. When the stick is all the way up, the moveable portion of the head should just bottom out on the stationary portion. The PLT and PIT knobs can be used to adjust that, but that can wait for later (and you need to switch DIP switch 8 on the back of the Tx to UNLOCKED for the knobs to have any affect).

2) That isn't right. If you have the Tx on with the left stick (and trim) all the way down and the Flight Mode switch is up (N) when you connect the battery, the motors shouldn't spin. If they do, something is wrong.

3) That's exactly right. If you look in the instructions (and I use that term loosely), they show the throttle curves for Flight Mode "N" and Flight Mode "1". In "N" (normal) mode, the throttle goes from 0 when the left stick is all the way down to maximum when the stick is all the way up. In mode "1" (3D mode), the throttle is at its maximum with the stick all the way up OR all the way down and about 80% in the middle. 3D mode is for flying inverted. The pitch of the blades also changes with the mode switch. In normal mode, the pitch stays at 0 from low to midstick and then increases to maximum positive pitch as you move the left stick up. In 3D mode, the pitch of the main blades goes from maximum negative pitch with the thottle stick all the way down to 0 pitch with the stick in the middle to maximum postive pitch with the stick all the way up. You always want to start in normal mode when you are connecting the battery.

4) The tail should hold OK, but it will never be great without a better gyro. I don't think it's too unusual for the tail motor to start spinning after the main has already started. You can try adjusting the Limit and Delay pots on the Rx. The Limit pot adjusts how much the tail motor speed is increased as you increase throttle and the Delay pot adjusts how sensitive the gyro is. If your heli is always trying to spin counterclockwise, try increasing the Limit pot. If it's always spinning clockwise, try decreasing it. I think you have to disconnect and reconnect the battery to get any new settings to take effect.

Hope this helps!
-JT

RobBeach

Hi JT... thanks for the info. It put everything in a nut shell while I
have been doing a bunch of reading, even before I got the helo..
taking notes etc and read the PDF manuel I found on line for the similar
model Venom Night Ranger 3D. I even had already ordered back
up spare parts including heat sinks which I installed before first flight.
I recommend Arctic Silver heat sink paste, it's highly recommended
for computer chips, but I guess any will do.

OK... back to business. There is definitely something wrong with this
situation..
"Adjustment slider to control movement left and right.
To have the blades level, the slider has to be almost all the way over to the
left., there is only one click remaining from the far left.
If you move fine tuning slider past 3or4 clicks from the far left...
the blades jam to the right and the servos make a noise
ie remain activated.

The helo didn't do this in the beginning. Before reading your post, this morning I tried
disconnecting the servos from the receiver, centering the slider adjuster on the Tx, centering
the arms on the servo, plugged everything back in... but still jams to the right past 3or4
clicks from the far left. I will try again reading your post.

The receiver must be screwey or something.. especially with the servos making a noise actively
pushing the arms to the right. If you move the slider almost all the way to the left, this centers
the arms on the servo (90 degrees) and the blades level. You have about three or four clicks
on the slider, then they jam the blades to the right (ie left servo arm up.. right servo arm down),
and it stays activated making a noise. The noise just being the servo activated. There is very
little correction available on the slider for left movement, maybe none.

But... and this is a good but... as the helo wants to go left anyways on take off, I can (try to) fly it
there isn't any need to correct for right movement. But with only 3or4 clicks on the slider from the
far left position before it jams to the blades to the right, there's not much "micro" adjustment...

I adjusted the limit early this morning, and that seemed to help a little.
And another good but.... I had my first flight this morning (7am EST) quite exciting.
Took off when out to and to the left about 20 feet, was able to bring it back to the
right about 10 feet and semi soft land.
So I am getting some where, and I will certainly will follow your steps.
So its either the receiver or the Tx jamming the helo blades to the right on the slider adjustment.

Thanks again.
Rob.

RobBeach

I have ordered another Eagle 50.
For the price... I couldn't get a receiver and Tx in other parts...
and thusly... swapping out crystals etc etc will be able to determine the problem,
and thusly take a loss or get a replacement for non working Tx or receiver
from the distributor. AND of course I will make all the information public
as to their customer service as to the problem etc etc.

thanks again JT.

Rob.

jtspin

Rob,

I've been busy with other stuff, so I haven't had much of a chance to check in. Having a second heli is always nice if only for spare parts, and so you can compare the two. I never quite understood what you were saying about the trim slider. It sounded to me like you were trying to say it behaves differently using the trim than just using the stick. You could have a bad servo or a servo with a stripped gear. Hopefully when you get your new one you'll be able to figure it out.

-JT

RobBeach

Yes, it is the trim (slider) control and not the stick for the movement left to right.

Got the new helo... (2nd)... and it is the Tx (transmitter) that is screwy. Swapped out the crystals checked
both helo's and... tahhh-dahhh [8D][8D]. Don't how the company will respond. They pretty much
tell you... "you bought it.. we tested it.." But I didn't dropped the Tx or do anything funky.

Well anyway... I've learned a lot... no exciting flights since the one...
Had the throttle up by mistake when I was doing pre flight after a small tip over...
plugged the helo in and zoooommm, took off and almost decapitated myself.
Probably the best take off yet but I don't think it counts.

I put down a couple of 4x8 sheets of plywood on the ground as my helo-pad, definitely good idea
as compared to learning to take off from the grass in the beginning.

To all that may be reading... Have a Happy Thanksgiving... I hope you can be with the ones you love.

Rob.

BreakBlades

Hello, I just got an eagle 50 helicopter and found it to act differently then i expected. I figured I'd take it real easy and put it into a nice gentle hover. However at 75% throttle I was getting no lift. I touched the right cyclic to compensate for tail pushing to the left and just with a bit of movement the helicopter shot up at an uncontrolled rate. This in the end resulted in a busted ship. Anyone had any problems like this? It was almost like the pitch change was stuck. When i moved the cylic it seemed to un-stick and the pitch increased very rapidly. Any ideas anyone?

Tucson-120%

Sounds like some binding in the swash plate or the ball links to me .

BreakBlades

Es4me, Thats what i thought also... I actually noticed it before I flew it and thought something was wrong. But as I have not had any experience with variable pitch helis at this point I didnt trust my instinct... So $30+ in parts later Ill be back in action. Also could someone explain the PLT P/T knobs.. I've read the manual of course and its about as useful as... well lets just say not very useful. Any help here would be great.

jtspin

You'll find lots of information in the 22E thread, but here's an overview of the two knobs. First, they have no effect unless you switch DIP switch 8 on the back of the Tx to UNLOCKED. Second (and I forget which knob is which), one of the knobs controls the how much range of pitch you get as you increase/decrease throttle (I think it's PLT) and the other controls when the pitch starts to increase as you increase throttle (I think PIT). The best way to see what they do is to disconnect your motors, unlock switch 8, and play with the knobs.

One of the common problems of this heli (and this might have a little bit to do with your shooting skyward problem) is there's no pitch on the main blades by the time the motor has practically reached full speed and then you add a little more throttle which finally adds some pitch and the thing rockets into the air. In that case, you want to adjust the PIT knob so pitch is starting to increase by the time the throttle gets to halfway up. Having said that, your problem probably had more to do with binding someplace in the head. Moving the cyclic around in circles before you get to halfway up on the throttle sometimes helps.

-JT