Gonzalo38

Today I was running in a track that was mostly a loose fine gravel surface. I was using Pro-Line Crime Fighters and the car was very difficult to control. I had better luck running my Truggy with Bow Ties..... it was easier to control.

So the question is...... which tires perform better in a very loose surface ?

j_blaze

probably hole shots after a lap with a blower.

Danno

Badlands

Da Smak

HoBao Angle spikes. Badlands just drift way too much on that type of surface.

infernos777

Proline Badlands or Bowties. Loose gravel will eat up tires pretty fast though so be prepared to use a set or two.

OctaviaN

I race on Grass tracks only and have never raced on clay but from what Ive read.....

You didnt mention whether the surface was a deepish layer or very hard pack with very fine dusty loose surface.

For the badlands to work best I think they need to penetrate the surface more as the block sizes are quite big so a soft surface they would perform better in e.g. like sand or compressed sand.

I understand that the bowties are for a loose clay hard pack surface.

So which every of the 2 take your pick for best match.
Nick

fat1

gravel will kill that car soon. gears, diff cups, cvd's, bearings, etc.

Da Smak

All of you guys saying badlands are IMO giving out very bad info, like I said to begin with, Badlands on a dusty surface do not work, Mayo has it spot on, they need to dig in just like a paddle type tyre. So the way forward is a Spike type that can penetrate the dust and get a grip on the underlying hard pack.

Which is why this buggy on the beach has BADLANDS on...

Gonzalo38

This is how the surface looks.....











Pro-Line Bow Ties lasted approximately 10 - 15 minutes and after that, they lost traction because the middle part of the tire was completely worn. With Crime Fighters, the tails of the cars were spinning a lot.

Da Smak

The second pic there is ideal to so the thin dirt on top of the hard pack. If you wanted to run crime fighters then use firmer foam inserts to help keep the tyre shape. But that is perfect terain for any LONG spike tyre such as that I've said before.


And BT, what a great looking track, I'd love to be racing there.

Da Smak

Gonzalo38, can you post those pics again in the BUGGY PICS thread please. They are just amazing and so full of the energy this forum needs.

SManMTB

Looks like a track where Komodo Dragon II would work. I would try Medium Soft to start with. Looks like this track gets you a lot of wheelspin so a really soft compund would wear out fast.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Here is a cut and paste that many help.

1.2 Off-road tires
Off-road tires operate quite differently from on-road tires. They usually have some sort of tread pattern with pins that dig into the soil, or a series of small pins that scrape the top surface. This is entirely different from the friction model described above, where you had a smooth, hard surface and a uniform rubber contact patch.
Off-road traction is generally more complicated, the curves have more complex shapes, there are more types of soil, more transients, and there are more variables.
1.2.1 Tread Pattern
Size of the pins/blocks
There's a basic rule of thumb that says:"The softer the dirt, the bigger the pins need to be.". Long pins work by penetrating the (soft) soil, and short pins usually work by scraping off the upper layer of the soil.
Bear in mind that long pins and very soft compounds don't mix very well, then the spikes just bend over instead of penetrating the dirt.
Density of the pins/blocks
For a given tire width, the density of the pins is inversely proportional to the weight supported by each pin. There's usually an optimum, where the tire works best. For example: if a certain tire works very well when it's heavily loaded, but doesn't feel right when it isn't loaded, the tread pattern is probably too dense. This can happen in very dusty or soft conditions.
Tires for sticky mud usually have a very low spike density, because too much spikes cause too much stiction for the amount of traction they create, slowing the car down.
Pins or blocks
Round pins provide grip that feels the same in all directions, it feels consistent and it's somewhat easier to slide. Very useful on difficult, low-traction, bumpy tracks.
Square blocks feel more 'edgy', they can give the impression of generating slightly more grip, especially on smooth, hard surfaces. The forward traction they generate also feels nicer.
Center tread
Some tires have a larger tread pattern in the center, often shaped like an X, an I, or a T. In all cases, it increases forward traction dramatically.
Note that on 4WD cars, more forward traction from the front tires can also mean more steering.
1.2.2 Rubber compound
"The softer the surface, the harder the compound, and vice versa."
Some synthetic surfaces, like carpet or polished floors require specially formulated compounds, such as Schumacher's Yellow compound, and Medial Pro's Indoor compound.
Hard compounds
E.g. Losi Gold, ProLine XTR, Schumacher Blue & Green.
These work well on very soft surfaces, such as mud, damp, loose dirt and fresh grass. The idea is that the tire doesn't move, but the soil does.
Hard compound tires aren't sensitive to changes in foam insert.
Medium compounds
E.g. Losi Silver, ProLine M2, Schumacher Silver.
These compounds work well on most dirt surfaces. They're the best choice if the track is very dusty, or is starting to break up.
Soft compounds
E.g. Losi Red, ProLine M3, Schumacher Pink.
Soft compound tires work very well in blue-groove conditions, when there's enough rubber deposit on the track to make it darkish gray or black. They also work well on very hard surfaces, where the rubber compound is more important than the tread design.
1.2.3 Carcass shape
Round carcass
These tires have a rounded contact area, so they're not at all sensitive to camber changes. They're excellent for bumpy, rutted conditions; they'll provide consistent traction and won't hook into the ruts and make the car flip over. The downside is that they don't generate as much forward traction.
Flat carcass
These tires have a flat, or almost flat contact area. They provide excellent forward traction, and if camber is correct, also excellent cornering traction, but only on smooth surfaces. In bumpy sections, they feel inconsistent and can make the car flip over easily.

OctaviaN

If you were satisfied with the crimefighters except for back end grip you could try with them:

That track is huge!

Different Rear Toe In plate maybe 3.0 or 3.5 for more grip.
Hard compound (less grip but longer wear) with medium to hard insert to maintain grip and or tyre shape depending on choice.
If back end spinning try a more angled rear shock setup.
Or use a higher Diff oil in rear?

What are those Ofna tyre with sort of small paddle type tread leading inward in a slight line they might work?

Like the Medial pro Woops

Or you could try GRP Grip

But the woops might be a try??

Nick

JB COMP

you might want to try knuckles 2.0, they work pretty good on hard pack with lose on top, my local track use to like that, and my bro has knuckles 2.0 and I have CF and his had more forward bite then me. but now they put down new clay a few months back and its like pavment.

scdrj

When our track gets like that, I find this tire works real well: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLPW8&P=7

Da Smak

I think you mean HoBao Fires,and no I wouldn't recommend those, they are the softest tyres I've ever used and if crimefighters barely last out then these thing will evaporate before you get to the start line.

Foxy

Looks just like our track (except bigger), try GRP jolly in a medium to hard compound. They're a large pin tyre and wear very well.

Hek

dang that track looks pretty nice...where is it at?

ecocav04

mugshots work good but i would run crime fighters in the front and bowties in the back.

hrdcoreglf

proline-Knuckles 2.0
Performance 1:8 buggy

#9020-01 (M2)

RBMike

GRP grips