khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I use a Master Airscrew Classic 18-6; at my flight weight, the engine/prop combo is about perfect. If you have a 18-5, that would also work, as I can cruise at half throttle even at 18-1/2 pounds. You'll just turn a few more rpm's for the same speed and will actually get better pull in a climb. The downside to a lower pitch would be less braking as you make an approach, but you really don't need that, as the drag from all that wing slows the plane down like it's flying in molasses; the lower pitch will probably make throttle modulation more precise on approach as well; that's a little of my problem, plus my end points need playing with. A 18-5 will fly the plane as fast as it needs to go.

Whatever you use, set up the prop so that it is at 2 o'clock/8 o'clock as the engine starts its compression stroke. This puts the magneto pickup in the best spot for an easy start as you flip the prop. The G-26 is set at the factory and should start and run as is, but you'll be able to lean it out some as it breaks in. I started mine out for a couple of tanks at 32:1 on Klotz synthetic and pump gas (87 octane) and now have it at 50:1 using Amsoil. The LHS guy said I could lean the ratio even more, but I don't feel comfortable with it (the Amsoil is rated for 100:1 mix). As you change the mix ratio, it will richen your mixture settings slightly, but I haven't found it to warrant resetting the needles once I initially leaned it out after "break-in"

You may notice your G-26 has an extra insulator block for the carb. Use that one, it is not as long, and it rotates the carb 90 degrees to relocate the butterfly linkage towards the rear of the engine; makes the throttle linkage easier. I use a bell crank and short rod to the carb. I also trimmed the black velocity stack so I could use it inside the cowl without having to cut a carb opening in the cowl.

TMI.....TMI.....TMI..... shut up, Ken.

Oh, one more thing. The MA prop, if you fine sand it and remove the logo, paint it with aluminum paint and then clearcoat it, will pass for a Hamilton Standard or if you could make it shinier, a Curtiss-Reed Prop.

I tried to post some pics, but I keep getting a server error. I'll try later.

Stickbuilder

I seldom have a problem making something shiny........

I have found that depending on the oil that you run, you can actually get by with considerably less oil than the manufacturers suggest. The G-62 that I was referencing is running on the Evolution oil at 50:1 with nairy a problem. The plug readings look great, and I have not needed to do any tuning other than slight tweaking of the needles, as the engine loosens up. I had every intention to use the alternate phenolic spacer so that I could set the carb up with a bellcrank and ball links. Most all my gas engines are set up this way, so that I can control the servo resolution, rather than the quick shot setup that you would have with the factory arm. There are some who cut off the factory arm and use a drilled out Nose wheel steering arm. I like the bellcrank set-up best.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I think you'll be glad you went with the G-26, good engine and runs better each time. What's with the web server? I can't post pics, anybody else having trouble?

BTW, I called Jay, he's fine. Any rumors of his demise have been highly exaggerated

damifino

I go away for a few weeks and the world turns upside down.............Stickbuilder is goin' gas in a WACO!!!

Anyway, I've just taken a short break from the computer, that's all. The kids have started school, busy at work...the routine just changed here a little bit. Been flyin' the Super Skybolt and I'm ready to get back into the WACO. I've skimmed over the last 7 or 8 pages and there seems to be a lot of activity here. Later, Jay

Stickbuilder

Jay,

Expect the e-mail that you asked about in the next couple of days. glad to see you back in here. Your expertise is missed when you don't show up.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

ALL
FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO MAY BE INTERESTED, EBAY HAS ANOTHER WACO YMF 3

1/5 TH SCALE ITEM # 330166820226 END DATE 9/24


GEORGE
WACO Brotherhood # 5

Redwulf__34

Hey Bill,
Did I see you say that I should put 3 coates of straight nitrate on the solid areas that are being covered?? Boy I forgot how smooth this stuff gets! I can barely hold onto this thing. [X(] I now have two coates over everything and sanded. I was going to start covering tonite but I thought I saw you say 3 coates on the solid areas. (??)

Sean

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

Hi Bill, when I first ran across this thread I thought you where a strictly 4 cycle glow Waco only guy. Since then you brought up gassers of several sizes that you are using. I hope you don't mind, but I would like to hear more about the gas applications that you are currently using. Engines, planes and experiences with each. Duck the flak and tell us.

Stickbuilder

I also fly other giant scale planes. I did the John Deere Extra 260 that now resides somewhere in Illinois. Built from a Euromodell kit (composite and very incomplete) with heavily modified G-62. And also several large warbirds. The G -80 was in a 1/3 scale Ercoupe. It probably should have had a much smaller engine (maybe the 62). I haven't had the desire to progress into the 40% and larger models though. I would, at some point, love to do the Genesis YMF with the RCS radial. Yes, I do have gasser experience, although this is my first go at using one of the smaller ones (other than the one YMF with the Maloney 125, and that engine was a total disaster). The biggest difference in using the gas engines is that the power generated is not usually linear from one displacement to another. For instance, you would not think that there would be much difference between engines having a small difference in displacement, but you would be wrong. I wanted to originally use the Zenoah G-20 in this one, because it could fit completely within the cowl. Not nearly enough power to fly the plane. The G-26, which is actually less than 6 cc larger should fly the plane well. With 4 stroke glow engines, you could compare the Saito 120 vs the 125...There is a difference in power, but they will both fly the same plane very well. The odd thing is that the G-20 is designed to replace the .60 (11cc) 2 stroke glow engines, so I suppose that I should have expected the power differential early on. I still like the sound and the fact that the OS 160 twin will fit within the cowl, but the ease, and reliability of the gasser is what prompted me to go with a gasser on this one. They are just much easier to use at the field. You don't need much in the was of stuff in the flight box. It's kind of a point and shoot deal. I'm not moving away from 4 strokes, I'm just letting this one go where it needs to go. It's going to be a tad heavy (some of the weight in the tail due to the H-stab mods) and I think that the extra weight in the nose will be a plus. Time will tell.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

George,

Thanks for the alert of the Waco kit on eBay.

Everyone,

I contacted the seller and made arrangements on getting copies of the addendum sheet she photographed and posted with other pictures of the kit. As soon as I recieve them, I will scan and post them here and send copies to ChrisM to post on the House of Moy site for download. The addendum sheet shows the seat, inside cockpit sides and the old style (oval) instrument panel with instrument location and type chart. It may not be totally scale, but can provide a guideline for completing your Waco 1930's style.

skylarkmk1

Hey everybody,

Happy Anniversary to all Waco Brotherhood and Sisterhood members. The WB is now just over a year old as it was founded on September 6, 2006. We have all been busy and since this (to paraphrase Bill) the loosest club there is with no dues, no duties, just a love of these old ragbags. We all seemed to have missed it. Lets do better next year.

Stickbuilder

John,

That set of sheets are from the Pica Cockpit kit. I have a pristine set that I will copy and post for you if you like. Mine are black and white, but they came straight from a cockpit kit. Let me know if you want them posted.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Bill,

Thanks for the offer. The seller has told me they are in the mail, so I will just wait until the get here. My copies will also be black line, but that is not a problem. I may "dis-assemble" them to group them better and then post, but I can wait.

Redwulf__34

Finding which way the grain runs in this Koverall is tough. It's really hard to see. I bought the package of 48" X 5 yards. I think the grain is running the long length. In other words I should be running the grain the right way on my wing if I can cover it in one piece. My wing is 60" so I couldnt get once piece from the 48" to run full length.

Is there an easier way to find the grain?

Sean

Nightstalker

Hi Sean - The grain of Koverall runs parallel with the finished seam. Says so on the label in the bag. I wondered how to tell this too awhile back and noticed the label after spending several minutes examining the material with a 20X jewlers loupe. Who reads labels anyways?

Todd
WACO Brotherhood #47

Redwulf__34

Hey Todd,
Thanks, I'll take another look. I read that, (since I read labels first ) I thought the finished seam they referred to was the seam on the part being covered. IE, where the covering ended at the final lap. I see what you mean now, I'll take a new look for the finished seam on the covering. I did notice the "frayed" sides. Thanks!!

Sean

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

You can READ? You shooda been a Occifer

Like the sign on the side of a LAW: point at the enemy before firing.

Nightstalker

Hey Lt. - I was barely smart enough to ride in the back of the bird Another funny (albeit important) note is on a Claymore mine "THIS SIDE TOWARDS ENEMY"... If you can't (or don't) read and comprehend that statement... you're gonna wish that you'd joined the NAVY[8D]

Out Here Sir,

Todd
WACO Brotherhood #47

Stickbuilder

Gee, Even the newest guy on the boat knew that the pointy end of the torpedo went into the tube first.....Guess that's why they let us in the Navy, instead of making us go in the Army (As you were Jarheads).

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Nightstalker

Torpedos ain't near as scary as tornados. Ya'll OK Bill? Saw there was some tornado activity near your woods there in Lake County last night.

Todd
WACO Brotherhood #47

SuperCub Man

Just finished the tail group. Usually I build to the plans but this time changed the rudder to match the actual aircraft I'm modeling and I put in the lightening holes for the first time in an aircraft. Copied the Barth pattern! I am amazed that I save 6 oz. by doing this!! Now to tackle the wing ribs. Still not sure how, but we'll see!! I used hinge points here so the extra 1/2"x1"x1/16" pieces at the hinge lines are for hinge support and are thin enough to avoid showing through the covering.

Stickbuilder

Yep, we are okay. We had a bit of close weather here last evening, but the next town over took the harder hit. We had a Palm tree or two get stripped, but that just saves me some work. Heh...the neighbors get to pick the fronds up. Eustis lost about 20 homes, and one was the oldest house in town. Nice neighborhood.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Jim,

Looking good, it sounds like a lot of heavy wood was removed, leaving room for more detailing. I like the hinge point reinforcement being thinner than the rest of the frame work to not show thru. From the rudder picture it looks like you are doing a Super, remember that the full size Super is 6” longer (about 1.2” longer in 1/5th scale) and a bit wider, not much but it can be significant. Please use an opaque paint such as solid primer or an aluminum undercoat like used on full size under your finish color. The translucent colors, White, Cream, Yellows and lighter colors can show thru badly although this can happen with the darker colors like Red and Black but not as strongly. Recently saw a plane finished in Yellow that had the lightening holes in the vertical and horizontal surfaces and with the sun behind it, the holes showed thru and spoiled the whole thing on an otherwise good looking plane.

SuperCub Man

Thanks John. I'm thinking seriously of covering with Silver Solartex. It has a very fine weave thus less need to fill and less weight. Have you ever lightened the wing ribs and if so do you have any pix. It is a thing I am puzzling over right now. Have cut out half the ribs from 5/32" but I've not decided how to lighten them. I see the Barth kit (or is it Genesis) has really done a job on their ribs.
(See pix below!) Not to my taste but something a little more moderate should still save a lot of weight. Any thoughts appreciated!

Nightstalker

Glad to hear that Master Chief. I know how much you hate roof repairs. And hey if you don't like to trim your trees... I've got some buddies up at Ft. Campbell that are real good at tree trimmin'... They'll even do it at night [8D]

Todd
WACO Brotherhood #47