catbutt

Have you tried replacing the plastic bushings in the steering assembly with bearings? No, this will not eliminate the problem you are having with one side turning more than the other, but it will remove most of the side to side play from the steering. It is an easy, cheap mod that has been done by many on this thread, myself included. I was surprised the difference it made. As far as the problem of one side turning more than the other, my guess is something is messed up in your assembly causing a bind, or as 46u stated, the servo. I would double check all the parts of the assembly to ensure nothing is bent or obstructed in any way. Check to see if there is some part hitting against something, though I really could not see what it could be. You say this is a new issue that just cropped up, meaning something has changed in the assemblage. A quick test to see if 46u was right about the servo would be to switch the steering and the throttle servo and see if the problem remains. If so, the servo can be eliminated from the equation and you know to look elsewhere. Hope this helps some, good luck to ya.

BTW, the bearings you need are 4x8mm, you can get a pretty nice set from Duratrax that has 4 of these and 6 of both the 10x15 and 5x11 bearings that are also used in the MT2. It's a pretty sweet deal, quite cheap for what you get. [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXD055[/link]


Oh, and boys, play nice, don't make me send you each to a corner to think about what you've done , J/K!

catbutt

I don't think that an alloy steering setup is needed, I'd just replace the plastic bushings with bearings (see the above post) and you will save both money and weight. I agreed totally with 46u that you should only add alloy where ABSOLUTELY necessary. IMHO the steering crank does not qualify. If I read your intentions correctly, you where looking at this setup to get the smooth action of the bearings, not for the aluminum, or am I wrong? If this is indeed the case, the bushing to bearing replacement will get you where you want to go. The only real places the MT2 needs alloy are the steering knuckles and MAYBE the rear diff case, but only if you are having problems there after shimming correctly. This is normally only required if you have a big block or super powered mill like the OS 18 TZ. Everything else is better off remaining plastic- cheaper to replace and takes abuse better than alloy.

bud09

i jus thought of sumthin, but not sure about it. did u ever think that ur turnbuckles r different lengths and thats wats causing this? either toe in or toe out.

nitrofirebug

Thank you bud09 I checked them first [8D]


Thank you very much I'll try these ideas there is allot of side to side play in this part of my steering assembly (where the screws are) (see picture)

It looks like I streached one side where the screw is and thats letting one wheel turn a little while the other is going straight [:-]

boohoo

do you have the little brass washers in between the screw and metal arm that goes along if you have that alloy steering assembly

lewis_lfc

[quote]ORIGINAL: nitrofirebug

Thank you bud09 I checked them first [8D]


thats what happens with alloy !!!!!!

i730

5 min at track and boom my day is ruined lol
shock cap blew out and the rear hub snapped

stadium truck freak

dude that suck how the shock blow ? andrear hub snap ? iv never buste them bits befor

i730

im not running awd so its a whole diff animal
hard to control
went off a jump and landed a bit short and blew shock out and snapped the hub

Jackedman

My Feedback: (2)

way to go

i730

lol i know
all fixed up
threadlocked the cap's
rebuilt all the shocks
filled em with 45wt oil and replaced the rear hub

ordering ceramic bearings
and new wheels and tires soon

MastaDizasta

I'd recommend you upgrade that knuckle to aluminum also...

i730

allready did
ordered before i broke plastic

catbutt

This thread has no business being on page 2, what's up with that? Anyhoo, hopefully I'll get some runtime down at our little beach track, weather permitting. It seems the winter weather is fast approaching, which in my neck of the woods means rain, fog and other wet and generally unfavorable conditions to run things with sensitive electronics. I plan on trying to get some video or at least some still pics of our track and cars. Perhaps a video of one of our ad-hoc races is in order if I can find someone to play cameraman. Otherwise the best that can be done will be a stationary tripod, not as good, but better than nothing. I am curious to get some comments and feedback on our track setup, perhaps some good ideas for future additions as well. I have plans to add more to it soon, but whenever I go down there I end up spending the whole time racing. It's a hard decision, run my car, or dig in the sand- digging always loses out- heh. We are somewhat limited on the size due to the fact we have no elevated platform to stand on, thus the field of view is smaller. It is still preferable to driving an hour and a half to get to the nearest "REAL" track, in San Jose. I have yet to go there, but I have every intention to do so soon. My wife recently gave me permission to build a track in our back yard, due to the fact we have our first child on the way and she wants me close to home (what a great woman!) The track will be setup for 1/18 scale electrics (so the neighbors don't complain about the noise) and will have actual dirt as opposed to sand. This means I'll have to go out and buy dirt, the idea of which I find insane. There is no other choice as everything is sand around here. When I get started I'll post a few pics, although this is the wrong thread for it. I spend nearly all my time here though, trying to read the whole thing, so it makes some small bit of sense to post a pic or two here. I promise not to hijack it too badly.

Oh yeah, the MT2 is running great- man I love that car! Last weekend I took the rear wing off for a few races to see if it made a noticeable difference in the handling- the answer, a BIG YES! Without the wing it is much more twitchy, both on the straights and jumps and handles the bumps less well. It does seem slightly more nimble, but much less stable. I also found the extra weight the wing adds to the rear to be beneficial in the air, without it it tends to nose in on the more linear jumps. With the wing on it flies with a flat trajectory and lands on all fours. I'll take the extra weight the wing adds for the extra stability it provides any day. I was quite shocked at the difference it makes. For those who have not seen it, here are a few pics:

bud09

catbutt that a nice truck. like the roof scoop, does it help alot with keepin it cool?
and i got the ok the start savin for an mt2 jus cuz i ran a 19:16 in cross country. thinkin of goin for my first kit with mt2 18ss.

kybert

Just ordered my HP10446 MT2 18ss+ kit!

Going to buy HPI shocks, edit knuckles, hubs and casters and alloy diff cases for adding during the build; maybe a graphite upper deck, in prep for the OS 18CV RX engine.

Is that enough? What springs would compliment this? I intend to use it on the road, and flat grass only.

Also, what size are the diff shims i need?

bud09

use an all-terrain tire one the u can use for on raod and off.

rs670

My Feedback: (1)

I'm new to RC trucks etc..... I purchased a Savage X 4.6 RTR. Please don't be too hard on me for asking what is probably a dumb question but here goes.....

Do I have to remove the body every time I want to access the receiver switch? It just doesn't seem logical to me. Please help!!

brokentrucks

no if your talking about a savage, you should be able to slide your hand between the truck and the body (on the opposite side of the exhaust pipe otherwise it hurts)

kelloggair

hey every body just finished first mod of truck body. i know i havent been on in a while and that would be due to school but here it is.............................Also i know this isnt the most amazing mod but i will soon but on blue ones and a actual caseing to make it look lagit

NitroBurn1

Is the MT2 G3.0 the newest version of the MT2, and are there any other after market parts for these trucks other than what HPI sells? I am buying a new truck, and probably will get the AE Mini MGT unless I can find a good reason why the MT2 would be a better choice.

stasoccerkid

heu wat engine do u guys think would be better for the mt2 18ss+
Z.18S PRO SPEC.2 or an O.S.

rs670

My Feedback: (1)

Question on breaking in the HPI Savage X 4.6 RTR. Using factory settings, and 20% nitro, I had a hard time keeping it running. But after while it seemed to get better. So far, I've run 5 or 6 tanks of fuel through it. ( 1 quart) It really seems rich!! But as it runs out of fuel and leans out for a second or two, I'm getting an idea of how really hard it will pull. It's impressive for a new driver such as myself. Temperature hasn't got above 120 degrees. Is all this normal so far and should I start leaning it out? I'm new to this form of RC and looking for words of wisdom. I'd appreciate anything anyone is willing to share.

rclynx

Try the MT threads...............this is ST threads

46u

My Feedback: (3)

When breaking in a new engine it is very important to get the temperatures up to at least 190 F! Anything under you are not getting the engine up to temperature and are doing more harm then good. To help get the temperatures up you might need to wrap the head with aluminum foil. You might have to lean the engine out just a little to keep it running. Breaking in an engine is the same no matter if it is in a ST or a MT!

Ran my Savage some yesterday.