silverroller

Hello All,
I have been out of the model airplane hobby for 15 years and now that things have settled down a little bit in my life I would like to get get back to my favorite past time, flight. Anything that flies intrigues me. I've had RC boats, cars, planes and a helicopter, but planes are by far my number one choice. My last plane from years ago was an Aerosport 40, it was fast and fun. I've always liked building them, so I figured I would start back into the sport with a kit. Things sure have changed in the past 15 years...

I made my decision on a plane and went with a Senior Telemaster. I like how big it is and should be a good way of easing my way back into flying. I originally tried to get one from Hobby Lobby in mid August. It was on back order, but I was told that they would ship it as soon as it came in at the end of the month. It never came. Their website said that it was now on back order until November 16th. I can't wait that long so I started scowering the internet for hobby shops and making phone calls. I couldn't find one locally (Cincinnati) or even regionally. I finally found one 1600 miles away in Nova Scotia, yea way up North in Canada. [link=http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=en&geocode=&time=&date=&ttype=&saddr=Cincinnati,+OH&daddr=Nova+Scotia,+Lake+Charlotte,+NS,+Canada&sll=42.65429,-73.94864&sspn=9.85632,28.740234&ie=UTF8&ll=42.633959,-73.894043&spn=9.858869,28.740234&z=6&om=1](Map)[/link] Ordered it and it was delivered six days later.

I've been doing alot of research on this plane, people's likes and dislikes, fixes and modifications. Took alot of notes and have narrowed down what mods I would like my plane to incorporate.

Here's the list so far (subject to change)
Fully sheeted fuselage
Two piece bolt on wings
Sheet the LE & TE of the wings
Removable tail
Sheet the LE & TE of the horizontal tail
Enlarge vertical stab
Enlarge tail control surfaces
Servos in tail
Add flaps or flaperons
Servos in wings
Retractable landing gear

Some of these mods I know how to do, others I am still in the process of figuring out the best way to approach the issue. I'm open to sugestions, tips and hints.

I haven't seen any heavily bashed Sr. Tele's here so I thought that I would document my build in the hope that it may be helpful to someone someday.

Feel free to follow along in the weeks and months ahead, hopefully not years.... Comments / suggestions welcome.

Ben

silverroller

When I got the kit I started looking at the plans and noticed that some of the lines on the drawings weren't exactly straight. I guess that after years of coping copies something got messed up. So I have decided to redraw the plans and incorporate my changes into the new drawings. These drawings will be posted here and as they change and progress I will update them here on this post. See "Attachment.pdf" file below. This will be to scale if you print to a 30"x70" sheet.

I started this project by cutting holes in the wing ribs to run the mid wing mounted alereon servo wires through. I made a hole cutter with a piece of 1/2" copper tubing that was sharpened at one end by rotating it on sandpaper. Worked quite well until I used it on 1/8" plywood, I got two cuts in the ply before I had to resharpen it. See Image DSC_3698.jpg

To ensure that the wing would never snap in two I went to a local metal fabrication shop and got a 1/4" x 1" x 36" bar stock of 6061-T6 aluminium and had them bend it 2 degrees the hard way (against the 1" dimension) Their 400 ton break machine had no problem doing this. This piece is very strong, it weighs in at 14-1/2 ounces. Later I will drill holes in it to lighten it up a bit, without losing much structural rigidity. See image DSC_3694.JPG and DSC_3696.jpg

I started building the wing. With having the longer aluminium wing joiner some more of the ribs had to be cut in half to allow the joiner to pass through the middle of the wing and the first three ribs near the fuselage we made of plywood. The first rib will be 1/4"ply and the 2nd and 3rd being 1/8" ply. See images DSC_3686.jpg AND DSC_3691.jpg

Don41

I just finished my Senior and while building it I too noticed the plans were off (curved, etc) but didn't pay much attention to it. I always start my wings by pinning a bottom spar down using a taut line as a guide then start laying up the ribs.

I'm prejudiced of course but I think you made a good choice for your return to the hobby. It doesn't hurt to have a larger plane if your eyes are no longer what they used to be.


[The following is just my humble opinion of course]
Based on my experiences I'd say sheeting of the fuselage is a good idea but a waste on the wing and stab. I kept the servos up front but locked in the tube at each bulkhead. I went with one piece wing for ease of assembly at the field as well as strength. Why make the tail removable? Not arguing just curious.
Flaps are certainly not necessary but fall under the heading of fun and interesting. Definitely go flaps, not flaperons. BTW: I have the 6' Telemaster on the shelf and I noticed that there is an option to add flaps. The plane's a floater. If anything you may want to go with spoilerons, not flaperons (:-).

Retracts? Now I'm jealous. I thought I was pushing it a bit when I added wheel pants.

It'll be interesting to follow your plane.

kiwispud

I think there are should be a senior telemaster club.

Like some of you I too have been mucking around with bashing a sension telemaster, although I could not afffort to import a kit to New Zealand ( at that time high US dollar and freight charges) so I bough plans a few years ago and have been busy builiding up my experiece (both flying and building) with a view to building a senior telemaster based UAV (using the wings and horizontal stab but with a pusher prop and heavily modified fus.) or maybe just using it as is (with a few mods) My key modification are:

* Coverted 31cc ryobie gas powerplant
* Proobable use of flaps or flapperons with servos in the wings ( I like to go slow and short with a load)
* building wings and horizontal stab with sheeted D-tube construction and reducing number of spars.
* two piece wings (so I can use different fus's as well)


Thus far I've made all the ribs and have the plans ready to go with wing building. Now I just need TIME!

Now retracts have me interested .. do tell ....

silverroller

I've been following other peoples builds and mods on this and I do agree that the sheeted fuselage would strengthen the tail and prevent twisting. As for sheeting the LE and TE of the wing, that was someones idea to firm up the wing. After looking at the plans I think that there's already a lot wood in the LE, but not so much in the TE. I'd hate to do the back of the wing and not the front. Maybe I'll add some balsa where the ribs met the TE inside the wing it firm it up a little.

I wanted to make the tail removable for ease of transportation, but I may have to scratch that one off the list. After careful consideraion it would be somewhat difficult to ensure alignment everytime it came off and more importantly that "connection" would be a weak area and prone to failure.

Why would flaps be better than flaperons? With flaperons I can use channel mixing with the ailerons, where as with true flaps it would require two additional servos (one for each wing) Would it be worth the extra $60 to make them flaps? I'm not wanting these for landing I just want the plane to fly very slow in the air.

As for the retacts, I'm kicking around some ideas on how to do this. This is a mandatory modification for this plane. I will be using theis as an aerial camera platform and don't particularly care to have huge wheels in my photos, so this mod will not go away. Right now I'm thinking that that the wheels will go up, but won't actually go inside the plane. I just need them out of the way. I am open to suggestions on how to accomplish this !!! Any ideas?

Just for the record, my eyes are fine. I'm 32 years old and I wanted a BIG plane for aerial photography (AP) so that I can fly it far away and still see it. Please don't age me any faster than I already am. LOL

Thanks for the opinions. Now I have some building to do.

silverroller

Here is how I am thinking that I will make the center wig rib.

With this being a 2 piece wing I will need some way of anchoring the wing to the fuselage. The trailing edge will be bolted down and the front will have a tab/tounge that will fit into a slot on the fuselages bulkhead #2. If done right, this will ensure perfect alignment every time. "If done right" is easy on paper but hard to accomplish in the shop...

Don41

It's hard to keep replying without sounding like I'm arguing but trust me you have just peaked my interest. Heck, I may just get that 6' Telemaster kit down off the top shelf and start still another plane I don't need right now (:-).

Flaperons create more adverse yaw in a flat bottom wing like the Telemaster's. Especially so since the aileron runs the entire length of that enormous wing. You might consider taking a page from the 6' Telemaster and cut down the amount of aileron then create separate flaps from the unused portion. You are obviously not afraid of modifying kits so maybe you could go with one servo and use a slip joint linkage between the flaps. In the end you won't save a lot of cash but it would certainly be a unique and interesting mod.

As to retracts,, think you might be able to use a single non-retracting main wheel and wing tip outrigger? This would require a carriage that drops away on lift off. If the wheel only hangs down a little it probably wouldn't interfere with the camera?

My wing is locked in place by a box structure that also serves as a mount for two dowels. As you say it makes for a perfect fit every time. I built the structure while the wing was on the fuselage by tacking the critical alignment pieces in place then beefing it up after the wing was removed. The wing fits the fuselage like a glove. I wish I had taken pictures but I didn't and there's no going back.

Regards

silverroller

Your "arguement" (I can't take this abuse, LOL) is well taken. It does make sense that flaps would cause less yaw due to them being closer to the fuselage. Maybe I'll use them instead of flaperons. I have a birthday coming up, maybe I'll get extra servos...

As for the retracts here is my idea so far, but I could be convinced to use another method.
Plan A is to use two 5/16" rods bent as depicted in the attachments below. The rod towards the back will swivel in place. The rod towards the front will slide in a track, moved by a servo. When in the lowered position the rod will "lock" in the "hook" part of the track. This will not be the prettiest solution, but it will accomplish the main task that I need, getting the wheels out of the cameras way.

vmsguy

I thought I'd chime in on this....

Like you, I am targeting using a STM as a photography platform.

Right now I have a couple options.

1. Use a small camera mounted to the wing.

There is a small, inexpensive camera available at hobby lobby. (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/video-camera.htm) A guy at my airfield has this camera, and it does a decent job. He even taped hit to my LT40 last weekend. (http://freedomfieldrc.com) This camera is light enough, it woudn't upset the balance of the aircraft if mounted to a wing.

2. Building a twin.

This appeals to me for multiple reasons. First, harking back a couple issues of MAN there's a build of a Sport Utility Twin. The author took a high-wing trainer, and mounted two motors to the wing, and simply planked over the nose of the fuselage. I could do this with a STM, then mount the camera in the nose of the fuse where the single engine/motor used to be. I know some people don't like twins because they feel twin engines are twin troubles. But I was planning on going with electric, reducing vibration, and increasing (hopefully) predictability. Plus, a twin STM would just be cool...



Right now I am building a "stock" STM. I want the experience building/flying it. But I've decided to build in "hard points" into the wing so I can mount this small camera.


With regards to the flaps versus flaperon discussion, general concensus is to build independent flaps, and leave ailerons alone. The argument goes that mixing in flaperons diminish aileron effectiveness, especially upon landing where aileron contol is needed.

vmsguy

I just had another thought as I reread the thread.

I'm assuming you're mounting the camera under the fuselage. If you do that, the most logical place to mount it would be just behind the landing gear, directly under the CG. (At least to me) If you do that, and if the camera is mounted facing forward. It should be looking through the landing gear. The viewing angle of the camera probably won't be wide enough to ever see the landing gear. If this is the case... you're retractable landing gear won't ever be needed. Though it would look cool...

Now, of course, if you have the camera on a swivel, that's a different story.

silverroller

I am planning to put an HD camcorder under the fuselage on a pan / tilt rig. Thats why I need the landing gear to move out of the way.

Thanks for the thought.

Don41

Here's a very interesting discussion, etc on the Telemaster. Well worth the download.

http://time.fh-augsburg.de/~erd/Mode...Telemaster.pdf

khelsea

Lanny Marsh wrote:
Frank, I own a original german kit Senior telemaster and would love to see your story. I inherited this airplane built and have been trying to find the builder or figure out just how old it could be. After 30 years of being away from the sport I retrained on this bird and have now put it on pontoons and am flying off the water, TT 91 4 stroke for power as the KB 61 I bought 30 years ago didn't have enough power at 15 lb weight. What a great flyer for us old guys with slow response time, very relaxing. Thanks ahead of time, Lanny < khelsea>
Lanny: Here is what I have written...we are still working on getting someone in Germany to verify the exact date that Engel started producing the Telemaster and Sr. Telemaster kits. If you still have the original kit, hang on to it as it is, I think, valuable. I flew mine on an OS Goldhead 60 and after many gallons of fuel and many years, finally replaced it with a Merco 60...and still could loop from level flight. I recall that when I was at Hobby Lobby, they had a set of plans and a kit for 36 inch floats for the Sr. Telemaster...sold lots of them and a recent inquiry to H/L turned up that they don't know where the master plan for the float kit is now....
Best regards,
Frank


The Telemaster Story, as I know it, at least.

Back in the sixties, the German model airplane company of Alexander Engel produced two kits.
The first was the Senior Telemaster with a wingspan of 84 inches. The second was just the Telemaster and was 72 inches span and was for a .40. Engel was a distributor and among many hobby products, also distributed Fox engines, which were quite popular in Europe. They performed well on low or no nitro fuel and as nitro fuel was hard to find then, the Fox engines remained popular for many years.

The Sr. Telemaster used a standard .60 engine and had a fixed tail wheel. Landing gear was 5/32 wire soldered together. The wing construction was of standard type. That is 3/32" leading edge sheeting, top and bottom 4" wide, 48 inches long and similar sheeting on the rear of the wing, top and bottom. This is the way almost every model airplane wing is constructed. Also there were large plywood dihedral braces and none of the German kits ever had a wing fold up. Not so with the US version..more on that later.

Alexander Engel was a very interesting fellow. He had been drafted into the German army and was captured by the US during WWII and spent a great deal of time in the USA POW camps. He spoke fluent English and even went out and “toured� the US during that time! He told me he had worked with the US Army dentist as an assistant in the POW camp somewhere in the Midwest USA and became quite adept at filling teeth. So much so, that the Army dentist allowed him to fill teeth as if he was the dentist on duty! He said that after the war he was on a trolley car in Germany and a man began to call out, “Dr. Engel! Dr. Engel!�. It was one of the POW’s whose tooth Alexander had filled! The man pointed to a tooth and cried out, “See, I still have it!�. Engel said, “I got off that trolley as fast as I could.�

The Telemaster became famous in Europe as one of the original planes was used to carry a line across a chasm for building a bridge. First a small line was carried across and once done, larger and larger lines were pulled across. This is the claim to fame for the Sr. Telemaster. Probably the first industrial use for a model airplane.

Engel never told me who the original designer of the plane was. He did not design it and there apparently was some controversy over the true designer as he related to me that a number of people in Germany claimed to have been the designer. Notwithstanding, Engel had the exclusive rights and continued to produce them well into the seventies.

To continue: Engel had a winner with the Sr. Telemaster and it sold very well in Europe and around the world. Hobby Lobby in Nashville, TN picked up the Telemaster kits as the exclusive source in the US and they sold exceptionally well.

The 40 size version, with a 72 inch wing that was built exactly as the Senior. Barn door ailerons as well. It, too, was a good seller.

Engel finally quit producing them but the demand was still there. He gave the rights to Jim Martin of Hobby Lobby (I was sales and advertising manager there at that time) and Jim had Joe Bridi make the kit for him...plus the plans for the US version also appeared in RC Modeler magazine.

There is a puzzle here as Bridi “redesigned� the plane somewhat. The outlines and plan form remained the same, but he used aluminum sheet gear in some of the kits and also had a steerable tail wheel. The main deviation was the wing. Whether Bridi didn’t want to use as much 3/32 by 4 by 48 inch balsa sheet or he thought his idea was better, will never be known. Nonetheless, Bridi’s version of the Senior Telemaster (as it remains today), featured strip ailerons and stringers on the top and bottom of the wings rather than the sturdy sheeting. The first batch of Sr. Telemaster kits by Bridi for Hobby Lobby were falling out of the sky right and left due to weak light ply dihedral braces and the very construction of the wing itself. The remedy was to add more braces which was done and this seemed to solve the problem.

The barn door ailerons on the original were much more effective than the strip ailerons but Hobby Lobby and Bridi persisted in using strip ailerons, even to this day.

I have the plans for the original wing and if one is building the Senior Telemaster, he should build the fuselage and tail group according to the “new� plans, use wire landing gear and get a copy of my original German wing plans and he will have a better flying and responding plane...my humble opinion, of course.

Later, Hobby Lobby gave the rights to produce the planes to a company in England and they produced some variations of the plane.

Then Hobby Lobby scaled down the plane for a .15 and they sold quite well. Then they introduced the Telemaster 66. It was very sturdy with a wing spar that could be used to jack up a car. The plane, in my opinion, was over built and heavy, but with the classic Telemaster plan form, still flew well.

Many versions of the Telemasters were offered by Hobby Lobby, but none equaled the construction of the original German kits. Some ARF versions were sold of the Sr. Telemaster and they still had the strip ailerons and some had flaps added.

My last project at Hobby Lobby, before I left their employ in 1979, was a 12 foot Telemaster. This was made again by Bridi and had boost tabs on the ailerons. It is interesting to note here that all versions of the Telemaster were consistently flown with the Hobby Lobby radio and its small servos. No problems were ever encountered with this radio and it was tough with powerful and tight small servos. EK-Logictrol made these radios and we used to test them in a test plane and collapse the transmitting antenna and put the plane almost out of sight overhead with total control. None of the popular Kraft radios of that day could do that...and I suspect not many of the present day radios as well.

The twelve foot Telemaster was manufactured here and also in England and was sometimes called the Telemaster 150. These kits are no longer available. Too bad, as they sold well and with the demand today for big planes, one would think they would be a hot item.
Of course since Hobby Lobby dropped them from the catalog they naturally quit selling and then because they quit selling they stopped stocking them. Go figure.

I built one of the original 12 footers and covered it in 21st Century Coverite and powered it with a Zenoah 38. An absolutely delightful plane to fly..but one had to use struts as the wings were in two pieces joined with aluminum tubing.

I am still flying one of the original Sr. Telemasters built from the original German kit....and it is a pleasure to fly. I have one of the original German Sr. Telemaster kits in my “reserve and save� stack of kits!! I have an old Merco 61 on mine. Actually we had flown this big plane even with a .19. All you have to do with a Telemaster is get it moving and the tail will come up and it will lift off. Sometimes I take off the plane with the old Merco 61 swinging a 12/6 prop and the engine running on fast idle. It flies!! Most people put too large an engine on the Sr. Telemaster as any old .60 is more than enough power to loop from level flight. Anything more is idiotic. Plus some of the later variants had flaps, again in my humble opinion, totally unnecessary, as the plane slows down and lands lightly without them.

The trend today is ARFs and it is remarkable that one can buy a finished, covered plane for almost the price of a kit. One could have never foreseen this trend, but it is taking over the hobby industry. Our local hobby shop is full of ARF planes and only has one or two kits and they do not push kits. Many of our local flyers are ‘buy and fly� people. My opinion, I suppose. I close with my axiom, known as Schwartz’s Law of Life #1, that is, “Everything good gets discontinued�.


Frank Schwartz AMA123
102 Crestview Drive
Hendersonville, TN 37075

81years young, building and flying for 71 years and still going strong.
Building everything from Lazy Bees to 12 foot Telemasters and all in between!


P.S. The twelve foot telemaster is back again (2006) and is made in the USA. Originally test flown with a Zenoah 38, but Hobby l|Lobby sells it as an electric...yechhh...I have one of these new kits and have yet to get started on it...it will NOT be electric. And this will be the third of these 12 footers I have built...the first two are not around now...one for a friend and another I sold to a buddy...I should have kept the first one..it had a Z38 and was a delight to see in the air... Oh..one more thing...look at the box of your original kit...it specifies it is for from a .40 to a .61......................

silverroller

Thanks Lanny, wow thats a lot of information. I've heard that the Telemaster was used in Germany to sting cables across valleys, but I have never heard anything more than that. Now with the information that you've provided it sure does fill in some of the holes in the story. Leave it to Hobby Lobby to attempt to mess up a perfectly good plane to save a few dollars. I think that I am straightening out some of the issues with my current build as well as adding a few mods of my own. This is a great plane from what I hear and should take the modifications well and still lift 10 pounds.

Thanks again for the story and happy flying, Ben

silverroller

I'm still working on the wings, when I can find the time between "honey do list" projects around the house. Seems like the list never ends!!!
I forgot to mention last week, but I also boxed in the the spar on both sides with 1/16" plywood, keeping the grain vertical for strength. Since the spar is 1/2" wide and the aluminium joiner is 1/4" wide I used a 1/4" x 1" stick of balsa as a filler. (see image below)
I have the second half of the wing built now. The aileron balsa strips that were supplied with the kit were warped, so I sprayed them with water and pinned them against a straight edge to the board to dry overnight.

I have been talked into flaps and ailerons instead of flaperons by Don41. Currently I am making the servo mounts for the flaps and ailerons. I want to keep the servos inside the wing and only have the arms sticking out, so they will be on their sides and will have an access door. I will post more on these servo mounts later this week.

Finally talked Christy, my wife, into buying me a Zenoah 20cc EI for my birthday on the 24th. If anyone else wants to get me something I also need a Spectrum DX7 and about 8 rolls of yellow coverite. LOL

Does anyone know of a cowl that will fit the Zenoah?

That's it for now, Ben

swa068

Here are the mods to my STM:

1. Two piece wing with struts. They bolt to a center section that stays on the fuse (but it is removable), and sturdy wing struts. Span is now 100 inches.

2. On board glow driver. Charging jack for battery is under a hatch in the wing center section.

3. Larger wheels for rough fields.

4. Removeable tail section, although I have never removed it. The idea was to be able to remove landing gear and tail section for easier winter storage.

5. Aileron servos in the wing

6. General purpose cargo bay for various payloads. Currently only have cargo module for a 35mm camera, but may make a candy drop module later on.

7. Power is O.S. 70 Surpass with 13x6 prop. This is way more power than it needs and will take off in about 6 ft, slightly more if carrying the camera.

8. Otherwise it is pretty much per plans. No leading edge or fuselage sheeting, no changes to control surfaces, servos in standard location, etc. As built, balance was very close and only required a small amount of weight added to the tail.

9. This airplane is a real floater and doesn't want to land. I agree with another post that said spoilers might be a better idea than flaps.

n0kjf

I need an opinion please. Can a stock TM ARF powered by a Zenoah 20cc EI, safely lift a 14 lb payload? I thought it would be fun to put a plane in the air at 9 AM and land sometime around 3 PM. 200 oz of fuel for 360 minutes of run time, add some weight for the tanks and on-board generator to power the radio and ignition....

Thanks,

Lew

Don41

Strictly a gut feeling but I'd say the plane will readily lift 14 pounds (it might groan a little though). Mine weighs in at 9 pounds, 2 ounces and is very much over powered with a Saito 82 4 stroke (13.8 cc). By my calcs your wing loading sounds quite acceptable. I have a 15.6 ounce wing load, you would have 24.2 ounces (I'm not counting the lifting tail).

I don't use wing struts but you would certainly need them.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

I keep threatening to build a Giant Tele and cover it in clear monkeykote. Rigged with a fiber optic lighting system--it would make a killer night flyer. Small gas engine, of course.

flyingvranch

Here's mine..Scratch built wing with sorta-fowler flaps. Sensational and worth the effort. 31cc Ryobi and all up weigh of 13lbs. A pure joy to fly and a real floater.

silverroller

flyingvranch,
Nice motor combo... So how do the flaps work? Do they make the plane "float" more or do they slow it down? Looks like two control horns back to back, very resourceful !!!

I'm looking to slow down my Tele by using flaps, but I don't want it to float even more than it already does. Someone mentioned spoilers, do they slow a plane?

How long did you make your flaps? would you change anything with them?

flyingvranch

Yes they are two control horns that are bolted together with a lock nut. Works very well. They do slow the plane down dramatically. I can literally bring the plane in at a walking pace with full control and land in nearly zero feet. The plane is a floater anyway so it's hard to tell, but the flaps are the way to go in my opinion. I believe that I made them 1ft long by 2inches wide. I use a single servo for each flap. I use about 20deg for takeoff if I want to show off, and about 45deg for landing. I started out with a HL Telemaster arf, but the wing was so badly built, that I ended up scratch building my own set after the arf set encountered a tree top. I used the same root rib as you have designed and bolt the wings down. The struts are necessary and made of spruce and brass stock. Nothing fancy. I way overbuilt the wing and glassed in the strut mounts next to the spar. This plane will haul a load and I wanted the wings strong enough to handle pretty much anything. I used the same flat bottomed airfoil that the original kit uses.

jdgt2

I have a Senior Telemaster on order from Hobby-Lobby. The kit version, not the ARF. I would be very interested in getting my hands on your original wing plans. Please let me know how to go about it.

Jack

n0kjf

The kit version will come with plans, 2 sheets. great airplanes, my son and I are talking about this year's version. I have more fun with my Telly's than everything else combined.

Lew

The first Image is a pair of live Balsa Trees, The second shows me, Gary Walker and my son Tom.

Telemaster Sales UK

I agree with you Lew, Telemasters are like motorcycles, once you've had one for a while you'll never be without one!

Here's a few shots of Team Telemaster UK, increasing size of model, decreasing size of modeller! I'm the second from the left holding the Mini. I've also attached a few shots of two of the models in flight which should make up the basis of an article in the next edition of Aviation Modeller International. The photos were taken a couple of Sundays back in typical British February weather, cold and windy!