Stickbuilder

Dan,

By all means contact Sierra, and let Darrell know that you want one. The more of us that do that, the sooner they will be available. I am sending him a virgin plan sheet to work from. I don't want any miscommunication to cause a manufacturing problem. We will probably need to make and install a couple of heavier sub (half) bulkheads to be able to mount the gear to. I would imagine some hardwood rails for mounting would be required as well. I'm going to need to rip some of mine apart, but oh, well.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

trlambsr

Bill
The Genesis kit has a Ply wood plate that covers the bottom of the fuse. with a hole cut in the center for to lose weight and access. it would be good to try to design them the same, with four mounts or maybe a plate or bar Also the Century Jets landing gear mounts in 4 places . I am hoping for Darrell to beef up the Jet design. For the 33 and 40 jet is not strong enough.
TR
WACO Brotherhood # 69

Stickbuilder

Terry,

I talked with Darrell today, and I am sending him a virgin plan sheet for the fuselage. I didn't want any deviation caused by copying the sheet, and he can see how the structure is designed. There will obviously be some rebuilding done on the framework to accomodate the Sierra Giant gear. Anyhow, I have offered to use my plane as a test bed for fit and function. I'm really excited about someone offering scale gear for the fifth scale WACO. We have had to live with bent wire and solder since day one. Thanks for all your assistance with Darrell and the guys at Sierra.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

John L.

Where have you been? I've been worried about you. You hardly ever post here any longer? I hope all is well with you and your family.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
N.W.C. #109

Stickbuilder

John,

I wonder exactly how many of the Brothers, and the planes we could get to show up in Ohio in June? They would like for us to do a display as well. Now that would be really neat.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
N.W.C. #109

skylarkmk1

Bill,

It would be great to have a bunch of us get together with the Wacos at either Fly In. Maybe get one of those Sport RVs (the kind for carrying ATVs and sleeping in) load all the guys and planes and attend both Waco Fly Ins, they are only about 450 miles apart .

I used a milage chart and from Orlando, Fl to either Columbus, Ohio (956) or St Louis (1004), so the milage is about the same although different routes are required. Take you pick. I don't know any thing about the NWC Fly In or what there is to do in the area. The AWC Fly In does have other things in StL for family members to do; Six Flags, Casinos (right near the Holiday Inn), Stl Zoo, malls and more, although Ken and I did not leave the airfeild except to go back to the hotel to shower and sleep.

skylarkmk1

Ken (khodges)

Lazer Works http://lazer-works.com/list.html has an 84" DeHaviland DH4 (from Aviation Modeller) short kit for about $171. It would be a good size as it is only about a foot longer in ws than the Wacos. All parts (formers, ribs and such) are included. Not much other info is on the site [&o]

red1

OK. Understood. These things happen.

Don Borton (aka red 1)
WACO Brotherhood #72

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Hello All



I emailed Darrell at Sierra about landing gear and let him know I wanted one when they are available. This is his email back to me.

Dan,

As soon as I get some drawings from Dany or Terry, I will get started on a few sets.


Regards,

Darrell

BigBoy99

It´s such a pity, that it´s soooooo far away from germany, it would be one of the greatest things for me, to participate there.[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]
How much I envy you guys in the States, to have the chance, to see the origin Waco´s [sm=crying.gif][sm=crying.gif][sm=crying.gif]

Regards
Bernie

Stickbuilder

Bernie,

Why not plan this one around your Holiday? You will find that the U.S. is very easy to get around in, and you may be pleasantly surprised in the currency exchange rate. It would be the trip of a lifetime, much the same as was my Rhine River tour. We started out in Freisburg (my ancestral home) and I had to leave the tour in Cologne, in order to keep other engagements. I would someday like to be able to do the entire trip. One of my ancertral names was Frei. Heinrich left for America in 1670, and the rest is history.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
N.W.C. #109

Stickbuilder

Ken,

So I have my carb upside down? In my experience with gas engines, when using the Walbro style carb, I have never seen any difference, as long as you had a pulse hole that would line up with the pulse port in the carb. Is this something that Zenoah has done differently with the G-26? Did you set up a different horn on the carb so that the bellcrank set up that you are using would connect, or are you using the existing metal horn that came on the carb? Did you remove the return spring, or merely unhook it? Sorry about so many questions, but this is my first G-26. I can't imagine them being much different from the G-62's that I have, but you never know.....

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
N.W.C. #109

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Bill, I can't see how it would make any difference how the engine will run with the carb in either position; like you said, the important thing is to have the pulse port holes lined up properly. I used the throttle arm that comes on the carb, and unhooked the carb spring (removing it will allow a tiny bit of side play in the butterfly, whether it would affect metering is unknown to me). My main thought in pointing it out was the position of the mixture adjusting needles and the ability or convenience in making adjustments with or without the cowl in place, or with or without the engine running. The carb linkage can be made with the arm either in front of or behind the carb, but with it in front, that puts the choke arm behind the carb, another consideration for access with the cowl in place. I'm sure you would prefer not to have to make another hole in the cowl just to be able to reach the choke arm, or to have a rod sticking out in order to operate the choke for starting.

I made a small lever from a nose gear steering arm that attaches to my choke arm; It sits between the #5 and #6 cylinder of my dummy. It is not very visible, but I can reach in with a finger and open or close the choke when starting (obviously the engine is not running, as I still have all my fingers in their entirety).

With the carb installed as I have it, the mixture needles can be accessed through the space between the rear of the cowl and the front of the boot cowl. It isn't very easy, and I haven't tried it with the engine running, but I can do it without removing the cowl. If you have some sort of dummy in place, I don't know if it will limit access to the screws if they face forward, but I do know it will be inconvenient at best, unsafe at worst, to make adjustments with the engine running.

SuperCub Man

Gentlemen - There is a "1/4 Turn" insulator that usually ships with the G26, (but is also available separately) that allows you to install the carb so that the throttle and the choke arms operate on a horizontal plane so the push rod is straight through with no bellcrank necessary. However, this places the HS/LS needles in an upward front pointing position. However, by routing out the pulse groove in the insulator another 1/4" or so, you can rotate it and the carb so that the pulse groove lines up with the motor pulse hole again and the needles point up and to the rear, very convenient for adjusting with the cowl off. Normally I just cut the hook on the carb spring and leave it in place so it doesn't put return pressure on the butterfly but maintains the seal. Also I remove the arms supplied with the carb by gently prying them off and replace them with nose wheel stearing arms (3/16" I think) which can be cut shorter if necessary to fit the space. Ball links on the push rod complete the job. I do this with the G26 or G62 and Quadra or any other Walbro equipped engine and thus avoid the dreaded bell crank mechanics. Hope this helps and I'm not stepping on any toes!!

Tony V.

Khodges,
Were did the prop hub come from....

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

When I first flew my Jungmeister with a Sachs 4.2 the engine just didn't run right. The carb was close to the cowl. I had resisted cutting a hole in the cowl but finally gave in. It's been running great for the last 60 flights.

damifino

The cowling plug will be shipped Monday to Stan's Fibertech. He says he will begin work on a mold immediately. It may help move things along if the WACO Brothers who are interested were to call or e-mail Brad at Stan's expressing their interest. E-mail Brad at [email protected]
Here are a few pics.

Stickbuilder

Jay,

That looks so good, I may stop working on mine, and just go with Stan's Glass one. Thanks a bunch, That's great.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
N.W.C. #109

Stickbuilder

Jim & Ken,

I have both isolators in my possession. The carb seems to have undergone some changes since Ken bought his. The throttle shaft protrudes the same distance on the, "Back" side as on the front. The isolator has a pulse hole on both sides. With the carb set as in my photo, the bellcrank will work just fine attached to the 4mm hole in the case side. I have a couple of nose steering arms that I was going to use on the carb (both throttle and choke. I could reach the choke lever through the back of the boot cowl. the high and low speed needles would be easily accessable through the front (engine off obviously). I can change it to any of 4 positions. So tell me what I need to do to get the best run from this engine. As I said, I have never owned one of these little engines before, and I'm kind of dancing in the dark here.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1
N.W.C. #109

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

That sounds just like what I have. The shorter isolator is the one that rotates the carb 90 degrees from "stock" position, and is necessary to use anyway so the carb throat is not up against the inside of the cowl, requiring a hole for carb clearance, according to how I measured mine during my installation. The 90 degree isolator does have pulse holes on both sides to permit the carb to mount in either direction. It's totally the choice of the builder as to what works for them; with my dummy engine mounted I was not able to access the adjuster screws due to the angle and having a dummy cylinder in the way. I was also going to be unable to access the choke due to the arm extending toward the rear. The throttle shaft does extend out both sides, but the factory arm is press fit and I would have had to take out the butterfly to remove the shaft in order to change the throttle arm; too much work for too little gain, the standard arm works fine. The choke shaft only extends out one side, and has a flat ground on it to fasten an arm and use a set screw.

I can't say it won't work for you, Bill, how you have it mounted, but I couldn't make it work for me like I wanted it to. I know that my installation works for me, and I can reach my choke easily, I have a short throttle arm from the bellcrank to the carb, and I can access my mixture screws without removing my cowl ( which will require, Bill, removing the spark plug wire from the plug, removing the plug, removing the prop, removing the cowl mounting screws, slipping the spark plug wire through the hole, and then moving the cowl from around engine and muffler protrusions). I can take mine off in less than three minutes if needed, but it's still a hassle, more so, to replace it.

I'm sure you'll test fit things, and maybe there's enough differences in your cowl dimensions, or whatever dummy you're using, to access what you need.



Tony V--- the prop hub is home made. I used a fender washer with a hole to fit the prop shaft, drilled and tapped 2-56 holes around the edge, placed 2-56 screws in from the rear, tightened nuts on the front, and then ground off the screw heads on the rear. Then I wicked some thin Ca around the screws to make sure they never loosened. The center of the hub is an "acorn" aluminum prop nut that I ground the hex flats off of and then polished. I think it would look better (more scale) with #1 screws and nuts instead of #2.

SuperCub Man

Bill, IMHO you will get a good run from the engine with the carb in any position. It has a pump so even fuel tank position isn't important. Set the carb up in the position that suits you and you will be happy. Mine are all set up as I described and I only remove a cowl once (initial set up) and maybe later in the year when a major change in the weather occurs like from early spring to the heat of a humid summer and again in the chilly fall! After a tank has gone through, the motor will settle in and continue to do so as it is used. There is no long break in required, just be gentle in the early days. It will spew out some black "gunk" early in its use as it wears in. This will clear up in time as you use it. This, without exception is the way all these great engines have worked for me! Except for minor personal variences I'm sure most flyers have found this to be so. You can set the choke up to reach through the cowl as Ken did, (and as I did on my Skybolt) or run a rod back between the cowl and the fuse beside the kill switch. If you're interested I can post pix.
Cheers!

SuperCub Man

Jay - Great job on the cowl (heart be still!!) I have e-mailed Stan's and ordered three cowls and three sets of wheel pants! Hopefully he will receive other orders and produce the parts soonest!
Thanks for fitting this in between Toyotas!!

Stickbuilder

Ken,

Your way sounds good enough for me. I'll do it that way. Thanks for the info.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

damifino

Thanks SuperCub Man, I have about 10+ hrs in it and there could be a little more (sanding and priming) done to make it really, really nice but.. enough's enough. By the time Brad messes with it and the end users prime and paint them the things will be as nice as can be. I have considered making paint masks for the blisters so two-toning the cowling will be a snap. What do you think, guys? Probably looking at $10.00-$12.00 per set for the masks......