Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Counter rotating props:
Yes counter rotating props are better. Standing behind the aircraft the left engine prop wash rotate and is divedrted to the right. This is why the left engine is called the "critical engine because the prop wash that gives "authority" to the rudder in a sudden engine failure and disables the airplane at lower speed to react positively aigainst a sudden undesired "Yaw" that will take it to a spiral dive. This is the reason why that in the case of an engine failure the engine you do not wish to lose in a low airspeed is the left one. If the right engine prop wash was rolling towards the center of the tail instead of towards the right side in the "air" it would give the rudder authority. This is why you whant the right engine to counter rotate. (you may stand behind any full power aircraft and you will notice how the prop wash is diverted to your right...at 5 feet your left hand has no wind and the right one gets all the wind (and grease if you run glow!)...I love this grease BTW.
If you are running electric the chance of a single engine failure is very little. If you do not counter rotate, this will imply a little right rudder action to maintain the aircraft on a straight axis once airborne and this is all...neglectabe. Unfortunately for me with glow engines the probabilities are higher and Saito or Os do not produce a counter rotating engine in this class...so a gyro might be my savior in this event!
Also counter rotating engines help the aircraft to fly "Clean" meaning it does not need rudder or aileron correction to fly coordinated and thus increase the airspeed and reduce drag. Counter rotate if you can.
Yes counter rotating props are better. Standing behind the aircraft the left engine prop wash rotate and is divedrted to the right. This is why the left engine is called the "critical engine because the prop wash that gives "authority" to the rudder in a sudden engine failure and disables the airplane at lower speed to react positively aigainst a sudden undesired "Yaw" that will take it to a spiral dive. This is the reason why that in the case of an engine failure the engine you do not wish to lose in a low airspeed is the left one. If the right engine prop wash was rolling towards the center of the tail instead of towards the right side in the "air" it would give the rudder authority. This is why you whant the right engine to counter rotate. (you may stand behind any full power aircraft and you will notice how the prop wash is diverted to your right...at 5 feet your left hand has no wind and the right one gets all the wind (and grease if you run glow!)...I love this grease BTW.
If you are running electric the chance of a single engine failure is very little. If you do not counter rotate, this will imply a little right rudder action to maintain the aircraft on a straight axis once airborne and this is all...neglectabe. Unfortunately for me with glow engines the probabilities are higher and Saito or Os do not produce a counter rotating engine in this class...so a gyro might be my savior in this event!
Also counter rotating engines help the aircraft to fly "Clean" meaning it does not need rudder or aileron correction to fly coordinated and thus increase the airspeed and reduce drag. Counter rotate if you can.
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
All what you said was more prevalent in a single rudder airplane.... like the A-20. With the twin tail like the B-25 the problems with one engine out were minimized
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Timothy Thompson!
They don't charge you by word! Come on! Elaborate that! Why not?
Flavio
no contrarotating props
Flavio
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
P39
You may resume it the way you whant but the convergent propwash it help in using both rudder. Also why not have the use of both rudder if you can? This is an information site. Misinformation like resuming all is wrong because there is two rudder may lead some to conclude that counter rotating props are useless. Well all I reported is not made up by myself and please if you pretend some information is not to your liking try to overlook it and avoid misinforming some who may need it. thanx.
You may resume it the way you whant but the convergent propwash it help in using both rudder. Also why not have the use of both rudder if you can? This is an information site. Misinformation like resuming all is wrong because there is two rudder may lead some to conclude that counter rotating props are useless. Well all I reported is not made up by myself and please if you pretend some information is not to your liking try to overlook it and avoid misinforming some who may need it. thanx.
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
The 25 had a large tail area and didnt need contrarotating props . The P-38 had small rudders and contrarotation made a very stable platform as a fighter-bomber. slipstream had a large effect on the big rudders of the 25 so contrarotation was not needed. Also inline engines (allison) were easier to convert back in the day they didnt have the cam issues radials do. It had to to with ignition timing.
#232
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
ORIGINAL: nemesis4u
krproton ,
WHAT SIZE AIR TANK did you Use?
OK,,, I am going to use the 2 3/4 nose and 4" main ROBART WHEELS... Like the look better than the stock foamies...
Ordered the ROBART GEAR ALREADY... of course it is backordered....
I will add the bombbay... and some release mechanisms...
planning on a modified colorscheme.....
THANKS,
TOMAS
krproton ,
WHAT SIZE AIR TANK did you Use?
OK,,, I am going to use the 2 3/4 nose and 4" main ROBART WHEELS... Like the look better than the stock foamies...
Ordered the ROBART GEAR ALREADY... of course it is backordered....
I will add the bombbay... and some release mechanisms...
planning on a modified colorscheme.....
THANKS,
TOMAS
Hi Tomas.
I cheated, but didn't tell anybody until now. Originally, our show model got two to three cycles per charge. Therefore, when I built my model, I used the next-larger Robart air tank (I forget the size--I can find out). I would have to guess I could get about ten cycles! But this is crazy. But now that the levers and hinges have broken in on our show model, we probably get about five cycles per charge--plenty.
Should anybody decide to go to a larger tank, I suspended mine from the top of the fuselage bulkheads above the fiberglass tubes for the wings. Problem is, this made it a little tight for installing the nose steering servo--this doesn't effect the servo at all, it just makes fitting your hand and a screw driver a little tight when you mount the servo. You could mount the nose steering servo first though.
But truly, I have learned my lesson and the standard air cylinder (recommended in the manual and mounted in the front above the nose gear) is sufficient.
There you have it.
And yea, I have to admit the Robart wheels (you've selected the correct size) look a lot better than the stock foamies.
Keep us all updated on your build.
Tim
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Air Tank
Hey ho I shoulg go on with my build but the tank fits perfectly in the front, those holes are 100% and I will also have the medium tank installed for the gears...the front one will be to actuate the bomb bay and the brakes. For those interested the pn# of the medium tank by robart is: "Medium Pressure Tank #191" the brakes are pn# 140SET include the electronic gadient valve and all you also need to fit whit this is the wheels Pn# 13840A2 aluminium main wheels... I know it is nuts but those wheels and brakes will honor the TF B-25 and help it stop on a paved runway. The noze wheel is not yet available in 2.75 but according to robart will soon be. yeah my front air tank will be useful. Now i have to stop chatting and adding weight if I whant to be airborne this week end. Ps (I have plenty of power with my 82's)
Servo Wire,
You may run two 48 inch servo wires through the tube to the back pulling them (with the connectors offseted) with a cord and voila! nothing hanging around.
Hey ho I shoulg go on with my build but the tank fits perfectly in the front, those holes are 100% and I will also have the medium tank installed for the gears...the front one will be to actuate the bomb bay and the brakes. For those interested the pn# of the medium tank by robart is: "Medium Pressure Tank #191" the brakes are pn# 140SET include the electronic gadient valve and all you also need to fit whit this is the wheels Pn# 13840A2 aluminium main wheels... I know it is nuts but those wheels and brakes will honor the TF B-25 and help it stop on a paved runway. The noze wheel is not yet available in 2.75 but according to robart will soon be. yeah my front air tank will be useful. Now i have to stop chatting and adding weight if I whant to be airborne this week end. Ps (I have plenty of power with my 82's)
Servo Wire,
You may run two 48 inch servo wires through the tube to the back pulling them (with the connectors offseted) with a cord and voila! nothing hanging around.
#234
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Hi Normand.
The primary test pilot of the B-25, who is building one of his own (from a leftover prototype), is also going to use the brakes. Really cool! I think he has chosen to use an additional tank, rather than replacing the intended one in the nose with a larger one.
This is a good option.
Tim
The primary test pilot of the B-25, who is building one of his own (from a leftover prototype), is also going to use the brakes. Really cool! I think he has chosen to use an additional tank, rather than replacing the intended one in the nose with a larger one.
This is a good option.
Tim
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Oh yeah pictures coming soon; by friday and straight pipe with vp30 perry pumps. I have a pair Saito 82a GK on there and if you go to the previous thread about the 11th or12th posting there is a description of the prop and engines research I've made since TF announced the B-25. I should stop interupting my buils every time I hear the "ploop ploop" of the e-mail but what the heak I'm having fun.
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Well, I ordered my Top Flite B-25 today. The hobby shop said it may not come in till the end of November or middle of Dec. now.
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
more pics i added the square hatch, The round cover is where the crew would go to get into the cockpit or waist gun section. Its all styrene from evergreen. I have not patterns as its all scratch built. I have added a lot since these but its too dark to take good pics ill add them tommorow
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
I guess you are not very familiar with modern electric power. The power does not decrease as the batteries run down. You just have to know how long you can go. As your fuel runs out your CG is changing also.
I will work on the levers today. I will let you all know when I have them. I figure about $10.00 a set.
I will work on the levers today. I will let you all know when I have them. I figure about $10.00 a set.
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Mike,
Do you have a Paypal account? If so, let me know it and I'll transfer the money today.
Thanks,
Flavio
I will work on the levers today. I will let you all know when I have them. I figure about $10.00 a set.
Thanks,
Flavio
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
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Here is a picture of the alu lever. I will make 15 sets. If you want a set send $10.00 to my paypal ([email protected]) or mail to Mike Krug,
7 Carey Place, Port Washington, NY 11050.
Here is a picture of the alu lever. I will make 15 sets. If you want a set send $10.00 to my paypal ([email protected]) or mail to Mike Krug,
7 Carey Place, Port Washington, NY 11050.