TF Piper Arrow GE kit - first flight
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TF Piper Arrow GE kit - first flight
I today had my first flight with my kit. Very steady, no triming needed and very low stalling speed.
It came out 6,6 kgs. I used Robart pneumatic retracts, operational flaps and cockpit interior kit. On the nose I have an OS Fs-120E. No lead weight needed. Glassed and painted.
On a little hard landing nose gear broke. Particularly the steal axle that connects the strut with the arm. I would really prefer it to be as heavy duty as the wing gears where the strut is nested in the arm.
Attached you will find a photo of it.
Stelios
#7
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RE: TF Piper Arrow GE kit - first flight
Nice plane, I'm working on mine right now. How did you glass the corrugation area? Did you slit the glass, or cut the oval shape out completely?
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RE: TF Piper Arrow GE kit - first flight
I tried not to glass the corrugation area or at least to use the least possible amount of epoxy. Then I immediately wiped as much epoxy as possible with clean kitchen paper. By doing that the glass fabric detached from the balsa filler that was used to smoothen the corrugations. The next day that epoxy had fully cured I cut the glass fabric over each single corrugation and sand the edges around the cut with sand paper. Wherever needed I used balsa filler once again to smoothen even more the corrugation.
Here are some more photos.
Stelios
Here are some more photos.
Stelios
#9
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RE: TF Piper Arrow GE kit - first flight
ORIGINAL: stelios
I tried not to glass the corrugation area or at least to use the least possible amount of epoxy. Then I immediately wiped as much epoxy as possible with clean kitchen paper. By doing that the glass fabric detached from the balsa filler that was used to smoothen the corrugations. The next day that epoxy had fully cured I cut the glass fabric over each single corrugation and sand the edges around the cut with sand paper. Wherever needed I used balsa filler once again to smoothen even more the corrugation.
Here are some more photos.
Stelios
I tried not to glass the corrugation area or at least to use the least possible amount of epoxy. Then I immediately wiped as much epoxy as possible with clean kitchen paper. By doing that the glass fabric detached from the balsa filler that was used to smoothen the corrugations. The next day that epoxy had fully cured I cut the glass fabric over each single corrugation and sand the edges around the cut with sand paper. Wherever needed I used balsa filler once again to smoothen even more the corrugation.
Here are some more photos.
Stelios
Very cool. Thanks for the tip.