Spacey

I maxed out the throws on high rates except for the ailerons. On rudder I eyeballed it to around 60degrees and on the elevator I eyeballed it to about 50, I'm thinking I can still do with a about 5 degrees on the elevator to help whip it around. My CG on the other hand is pretty much like it is in the book and it flies great, you really want to trim the model so she'll only require a breath of down elevator to hold inverted straight and level. I'm going to withold any more comments as I only have one flight on the plane now and that's the maiden the past Saturday but right now I can say I am impressed, this one's going to be one of my favourites no doubt!

Mine came out very heavy but I think I may have overpowered her ever so slight with the big Hacker I plonked on the nose. She weighs in at 585grams all up and all my hopes sunk into the ground when the scale spat this out as I read everywhere it won't 3D worth a darn when it goes much over 500g. Well I can confirm that aint true, sure I think the smaller E-flite motors will have a hard time dealing with the heavier weights and maybe that's what the comments reffered to but I can tell anyone the airframe doesn't mind the little extra weight, she tracks like an arrow (Yea really strange for a foamy, I love it!) and still gets down and dirty.

Big up to E-flite! My last E-flite purchases have been nothing but a pleasure.

patrick181

Ok thanks, I have high rates per manual, elevator looks like about 40 degrees. Going to bump it to 45-50, and try some flaperon mixing.
Running a TP 1320 at factory 3D position, seems like it still wants to fall out of a harrier too easy. Or it could be my skills...

Yea this thing flys like its attached to an invisible roller coaster in the air.

3DownLow

My Feedback: (4)

Try the SFG's and T-wing. Everyone who has tried these mods has reported better high alpha flight tendencies. I know mine wouldn't hover or harrier very well until I added the mods. After adding them, whole other story. Much better harriers, hovers and elevators. Couldn't get it to elevator(well) without them. Believe me I don't like doing extra work to a plane unless it needs it and this one needed it to make it do what I expected it to do. Also try to keep the weight down under 18oz if you can help it. That makes a big difference too. I tried mine out with a 2100 pack and it would pattern fly fine but the 3D suffered with the added weight. My 2 cents.

patrick181

You have a build link for those mods? I could probably copy the design off Blake's video but I assume the position and alignment of the T wing and SFG's is critical plus the weight. Any tips would be appreciated.

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

Ditto!

I have not tried the T-Wing, but the SFG's really help on 3D maneuvers, especially knife edge passes. Only problem I have is that my e-flite servo on elevator is no longer centering. This is the second one, so this time I will replace with an HS55 and hope it works better.
Only other mod, besides using some clear packing tape to strengthen the fuselage, has been to use "Great Stuff" foam which I spread at the weak point on the fuselage (upper part, above the exhaust opening). No more flexing in that area!

Falconjet50

What is the best set up for 3d and also normal flying. The Manual said 3.5 inches of throw with aleron and rudder , where is this measured from. I don't think I can get three inches of travel on the rudder and aleron. I am using the DX-7 which switch do you set up for 3D? Is aleron/rudder mixing good? I am just looking for a good set up and also the wing fences where do you get them or how to build them?

patrick181

With your radio, hold the the surface down like your elevator and put a ruler up to the inside most trailing edge of it. Holding the ruler stationary, move the control surface up and see if it lands at 3.5". Then increase or decrease the end-point setting in the radio till it hits 3.5". End Point is another way of saying "throw". If you want to get real accurate use a carpenters angle finder.

Allthough I'm not familiar with the DX7, I think you mis-understand the "3D switch", Find 3 switches, one for each surface. Aileron, Rudder , Elevator preferably 3-position ones and set different rates so you can limit the travel and sensitivity of the control surface. The 3D rate would be the switch position you set with the most throw. I would say 40 degrees or more.

Falconjet50

I don't know if I can move my end point fare enough out to get to 3.5 inches. How long are your servo arms? I am using the longes that came with the servos. I am using the Eflite S-75 servos. To perform 3D manuevers the aircraft needs 3.5 inches of control movement? That seems like alot. Just asking, I know that is what the manual calls for. I may need to lenghten the servo arms to get the throw.

3DownLow

My Feedback: (4)

You need the 3.5"(or 45-50deg) if you want to fly decent 3D. The plane is light enough it needs all the throws you can give it. My D47's needed to have about1" to 1-1/8" arms(carbon scratch built) added to make it fly well. Not sure how big your S-75 arms are, but you can always make up some larger ones using phenolic fiberglass sheets or carbon plate. I would recommend the largest arms you can get for your servos. If they are too long(doubtful) then you can always drop back a hole or two. If you're just interested in pattern/sport flying tone the low setting down then just use dual rates if you have them and turn them up for 3D work. My 2 cents.

bigwood212

Is it posible to use the motor, esc, and servos from my typhoon 2 in an e-flite tribute??? or will the motor weigh to much or not fit?

VictoryRoll-91

You can get away with using the ESC,but I wouldn't recommend using the motor, and the servo's wont fit.


Anyway, after starting this thread MONTHS ago, I'm finally buying my TFX today! Gonna build it light using the E-flite 400, and 3s 1320.

I'm taking the gear out of my Lil Banchee, as I think this is a better overall plane. (from what I have seen/heard)

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

Using 3S 1320's is OK, but I don't know about an E-flite 400. Even an E-flite 450 may not be good. I'm using an E-flite 480 and it flies great, plenty of power, and just floats in for landings.

VictoryRoll-91

I use a 480 on my 28 oz. Seagull Extra 300, and it rips! A 480 on the TFX seems like overkill. I ALWAYS go for the lightest build possible, as 3D planes fly best light. I'll be pleased if it weighs in at 17 oz. AUW.

3DownLow

My Feedback: (4)

No build links just hack some depron and glue! Just kidding check out post #51 and #55 for mounting details. Someone has my templates so I can't copy and post them. Just eyeball it like I did. As long as you keep everything straight your surface shapes won't matter that much. Any "fences" on the wing will help stop the air from falling off the wing(and your plane falling out of hovers, harriers,etc.). I used my laser but the usual rulers, tape measures , T-squares and the like will help keep everything lined up. Good luck the mods worked great and everyone who has tried them has reported better high alpha flight.

RamboSmurf

Just thought I would share the fate of my FX with everyone. The mods mad it fly better but....still could not get it to harrier and hover like others I have and here is the end result.
I actually was working on hovering when it did its usual of rolling to one side. I punched out and saved it, but I can always manage to find the one guide wire to one telephone pole within 1 mile. I did...end of plane.
Sorry there is no parts left. Damage was to severe and it was ceramoniuosly set on fire.
I do have a park 450 if anyone wants to trade for some smaller inrunners or outrunners as I will not be getting a new FX and stick with my homemade foamies. (least they hover)
RS

Dave ESPI

gah... roughly 7 months I've had my Tribute. It has hung and collected dust and for one reason or another I have not flown it. A bum servo from factory took 2 months for me to get and re install, then I needed to find a good battery and charger that I liked, and the list continues............ Well I got everything up and running on it, set up the dx6TX for it, and slapped in an 11.1 lipo, and a good motor set up, built it perfectly, and took it out tonight for maiden..........


Taxi fine, lift off, and get about 15 feet up, and it wants to roll to the left, I correct it, and it rolls ove to the right and flies upside down, and the tail clips the top of a tree, I hammer the throttle, pull back(upsidedown) and all I see is it doing nothing I tell it to, and hear a THUD (CRUNCH)......

Ugh.........

not good.

I had noticed I only had one grub screw holding the prop shaft onto the motor, and figured it would hold just fine......... cept it didn;t it spun off the motor and flew off into the distance never to be fount tonight I spun the prop completely off the shaft, and it flew off somewhere and I could not find it ( again looking in a lighted parking lot at night where they just happened to have turned off the lights in the far end of thelot just seconds before I taxied up and into the air ( oddly 2 hours earlier than normal time).

I'll go back and look for it tomorrow ( as it had my prop saver on it also).

The plane.............. "repairable", but the fuselague is in 3 pieces. I have a spare plane still brand new inthe box ( I m going to sell it).

As I was walking to the wreckage ( about 30 seconds of flight time) A small lightbulb went off in my memory and there was mention of how the larger batteries had a tendancy to want to make the tribute roll over on their backs............. Bah ! I think I'm going to custom fab a bit ( now that the plane is broken) and sling the battery UNDER the wing this time. It has to be why it rolled like that.

Right?

Dave ESPI

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...edTribute1.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...edTribute3.jpg

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...edTribute4.jpg

AND AFTER SOME "HOT GLUE AND TAPE LOVIN..... I cut the battery hatch deck where it had cracked near the front rib, and slid it under the deck to rest on the wings. I packed it with a foam pad and it holds nicely inplace with the motor leads snuck around it.

11.1 power again, and hopefully no more high C.O.G. weight initiated rollovers !

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...I/PICT0024.jpg

FLYMIKE

Just got one these bad boys..almost done building..Park 450 ..JR SM22 servos and 1320 TP and1345 Flight Power packs...thanks for the vids

FLYMIKE

12x6 prop worked best for me..love this plane..doesnt need the wing felleys to do all that stuff on the vids...mine fly's great! Looks good in the air too...

Dave ESPI

I'm geting a new prop adapter this week so I can re try to get mine flying properly.

3DownLow

My Feedback: (4)

Doesn't need them but it sure makes it fly a lot better! I wouldn't go to all that trouble for nothing. Certainly didn't do it for looks. And when Blake says he thinks it needs them, I have to trust his flight skills on that one. SFG's certainly made mine fly better.

FLYMIKE

My 450 is grinding..I think the magnets came loose...going to exchange for the 480...I have some cellfoam...going to try the wing mods...thank for the reply

3DownLow

My Feedback: (4)

Too bad you can't exchange the 450 for a MicroDan 2510-3D. Not only is it the perfect match for this airframe, you basically get a lifetime warranty on the motor. You pay shipping and Dan will fix it for free, whether you crashed it or it wears out the bearings or whatever. No aspersions or accusations cast. Don't see many manufacturers that will back their product like that. And you can get it in anodized orange or the slick chrome finish. Talk about Bling! Keep 'em flyin'!

FLYMIKE

I have another tribute coming..where did you get your Microdan?

3DownLow

My Feedback: (4)

Gobrushless.com is a good site to try. E-foamies.com has them too. Call to check for stock. Dan said they were out of the chrome plated but they might have some in by now. You won't be sorry. If there ever was a perfect motor/airframe combo this is it. You can use a 11 x 7 DD GWS prop and it gives the best overall performance=pattern/3D with enough tip speed to fly on windy days. If it's a perfectly calm day an 11 x 4.7 SF APC is great for 3D work but the 11 x 7 gets the nod as best overall prop. Gives 34oz. of thrust @ 16-17amps and stays cool doing it. Barely gets above ambient even on hot summer days after some hard 3D. And Dan has added a 3rd bearing and beefed up the front bearing from 6mm to 8mm on all the new motors. I like to call it "Blakeproofing"!