popunonkok

Me again... =)

How strong does the servos need to be on the taco??? I want to choose light servos but they still need to be up for the job... =)

mmattockx

Check out this thread on the Mojo 25. Towards the bottom , there is some discussion of servos for the smaller models.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_40...tm.htm#4113487


Mark

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

HS 85's, Futaba 3101's or Dymond 200's are all pretty good.

strangepork

hello paul,
really sorry to be a pain in the butt, but
the model look's great, and I would like to build one, down loaded the plans, but adobe acrobat 7 won't open them, it says file type not supported.
Can you help plse

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

You'll need Autocad or some free cad program you can find on the net. I think there is an Autocad file printer out there. Google it and you should be able to find what you need.

I sell the plans on my website. Usually I include a rib set and the motor mount plate and whatever extra parts I have laying around. I also sell the full kit if your interested.. www.swanyshouse.com/tacoff/tacoff.html

strangepork

Thank's for that, probably should have worked it out for myself. How much to post a kit to the uk?

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

I can ship a 2 lb box to the UK for about $23 USD via USPS priority mail

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Anyone tried a GMS .32 in this .25 Taco? I am running this GMS .32 on a 3lb 3oz SPAD Dogfighter and it does pretty well turning a 9x5 APC. Think I could go to a 10x3 APC for 3d goodness on this .25 Taco? Would probably go with HS-81s and a small battery pack.

somegeek

Razorback58

My Feedback: (8)

The GMS would be fine, but don't use the HS 81's unless they are the metal gear servos. Nylon gear servos that size just aren't enough for heavy duty 3D.

GuyP

Being new to the forum and getting heavily into 3D after making a few shock flyers, this is the first time ive heard of a Taco

What a cracking little plane this is. Ive downloaded the plans and Im going to build one asap.

Just one question. Would it take a .40 size engine happily enough? or is that just too much overkill?

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

You could use a 40 fp... you really want to stay down around 10 - 11 oz for motor.

GuyP

Thanks Paul

will look for a smaller one then. The engine I was thinking about isnt a 40 its a GP42 that I was going to put on my Hots pro, my mistake. Weighs in at 14oz on the dot. I will hunt around for something a bit smaller.

boisebiker

Would I be able to fly this plane on an OS 26 4-stroke? I was running a 10-6 at 10,000rpm the other day. That shows almost 3lb of thrust. Maybe a different prop like 11-4 or 11-3. Looks like a lot of fun to fly and inexpensive.

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

A OS 26 4 stroke would fly it.. but forget about 3d...

imsofaman

My Feedback: (2)

I had a 40 four stroke in mine...It was just too heavy. A hot .25 is the way to go with APC 10 x 3 prop in my opinion. I need to build another one!

imsofaman

My Feedback: (2)

Paul....I still have not built the Mojo 60 yet....waiting for one of my 60 size planes to give up the ghost so I can take 91FS out and put it in the Mojo.....

Still flying a little 3D....I have gotten rusty now....I will get back into again soon! Too busy with the autogyros.........

Dave

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks again Paul for making these plans available. This is my first scratch balsa build. Got the wing part way done and then ran outta material! Have an order on the way from National Balsa Co.

How does bass compare to spruce?

somegeek

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

Looks good! Nice work. Spruce and bass can be used interchangably on the Taco... you could probably even get away with using a good hard piece of balsa.....

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, Paul! I used (4) pieces of 1/8" bass for the upper dihedral brace. Good to know about the harder balsa working. Very much looking forward to flying this as this will be my first profile plane.

somegeek

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Got the wing and control surfaces completed and sanded. The parts in the pic weigh 9oz on the nose. Think this is running heavy but I am trying to keep this light. Thinking this would be lighter if I was using the 6-7lb balsa.

Would like to build this just over 2lbs if possible but that means my fuse has to weigh 2oz to hit the 2lb mark... thinking the fuse weighing 6oz would put me at 2lbs 4oz AUW dry weight. With the wing weighing just over 5oz I think a 6oz fuse is do-able.

somegeek

imsofaman

My Feedback: (2)

Lookin great!!!!

Dave

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

A friend built a taco for me, I have an OS .25LA in it,,havent mounted the servos yet, he built it for me months ago and its on top of my fridge right now..havent flown anything but elect yet this year...and I sponser 2 1/2A flyins a year,I have a .,25FX but never have run it...I have been reading these threads for hours!!!..Paul do you still have this same plane..I dont know if mine is a ff or an original, its covered and rtf except for radio gear....and tank.......very good reading...Rog

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Well shoot... I got the fuselage put together this weekend. Got one side sheeted with Titebond II and weighed in place over night. Nice and flat.



Glued the other side in place Saturday night and let it dry overnight. Brought it indoors last night and this is what I have this evening.



Where'd I go wrong? The grain is opposing by about 90 degrees. Was weighed in place with about 100lbs of dumbbells.

Tonight I soaked the sheeting on both sides with windex and weighed it down to see if this will dry flat but I wonder if this will help at all?

somegeek

imsofaman

My Feedback: (2)

Not a big deal.....dampen the wood and lay the fuse on two dowels the add weight in the middle. You will get the warp out.

Dave

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, imsofaman.

I soaked both sides with Windex w/ ammonia... few applications to make sure the sheeting is dampened with it... weighed it flat with 155# of dumbbells on top of a smooth board on my kitchen counter to dry overnight.. Do I need to bend this fuselage past the flat point to get the warp out or will my current method work? There is a bit of a twist to the warp so I don't know if dampening it and bending it with dowels would get it flat.

Appreciate any input!

somegeek