Pappy-86

My Feedback: (6)

Junkjet, Not all speed controlers are the same but most when using 3c lipo will handel 4 servos just fine. I use jeti and castle speed controlers and they handle 5 servos with np.

RacerX8518

you'd have to know how many amps your ESC can put out to the servo's specifically, and then how much each servo draws.
You can run 4 HS55's on most esc's no problem. The 5th servo is questionable and I'll stand back and wait for someone more technical to answer you.
But thats how you find out. Look up the data for amp draw of each servo, then look up amp capability of esc, and I mean in the 2amp region not 32amps to the motor.


I have my own question too..
I have a 7chp futaba computer radio, do I need to have y connector still or can I program it in for the ailerons

ryanronning

You pretty much got the idea on the drywall anchors... just make sure you get the ones I have pictures that collapse when you tighten them.

Here's what I did.

1.Picked a spot to drill the hole. (your are correct, hole is slightly bigger for ease of anchor to go through)
2.Note: be gentle.
3. One hole is drilled, insert anchor, and using the screw that came with tighten it till it's snug.. you'll know when the anchor has sandwiched it by feeling it get really tight to turn.

I was going to us the nylon bolts for weight issues but opted for the screw type regular bolt that came with it. Make sure to slap a washer in there to for more support. The reason for using the bolts is because I can get a Phillips in there better than my sausage fingers!

Good luck!

ryanronning

Thanks for the compliments. I hadn't realized it would work so well... more of a gamble but that sometimes is how the best ideas come about.

Should be airborne tomorrow, I will post on how it goes!

junkjet

My Feedback: (55)

Well I have decided to get a BEC, cant hurt to have a bit of insurance. I am running 5 servos and a set of LED landing lights on CH 6(too cool switchable off on). I will get some pics on here soon.

papajeff

You guys are doing good work with the Predator. I really like all the different variations. Nice, that's what these forums are all about. So, keep up the good work and most of all, enjoy! Remember.......different is GOOD!

junkjet

My Feedback: (55)

http://www.xheli.com/hemiwivica.html Check out the price drop on the 2.4 spy cam

georgee

Hi Papajeff,

Being the 1st pushermotor plane I need some help as for the correct engine thrust is concerned.I mean right or left, up or down thrust is needed,and how much for the Predator"s motor.

Georgee

Pappy-86

My Feedback: (6)

Hello Georgee, Don't know what the others did on there build but I put no thrust angle in mine mounted it flat up aginst the fire wall and used a 200 watt motor and all that was needed on first flight was 2 clicks right aileron. And like the others I had to add about a 1" spacer between the motor and fire wall to get the cowl to fix right.

papajeff

Georgee,

Warbird-Dave is totally correct and most of us have installed the motor as he has stated. Remember, this Predator UAV is really a pusher prop glider of sorts and 3D or pylon speed is not required, so the 200w outrunner powers the plane just fine.

georgee

Hi Gents,

THX for the quick reply.As for the motor I"ve choose a Keda A22-20L/300w/.I hope it will give enough power.
I keep following the thread.

Georgee

RacerX8518

went to my local home depot for the nylon screw, and nylon tubes. The nylon tubes were no where to be found. As in out of stock I guess because I believe I found the right area and even asked someone.
so, it looks like I'll just mount the motor directly to hte "firewall" (guess not a real high chance of fire in an electric). the motor is about 2'' (51mm) possibly another 2mm with the mount and i believe the manual states 56mm is recommend so hopefully i won't have to adjust too much to fit it.

brownlab

THE

papajeff

RacerX,

The only reason for the standoff's on the motor mount, is to properly fit the rear cowl. If the motor were mounted directly to the firewall, you would need about a 1" long prop adapter to get the prop to clear the cowl. See the first two photos in post #310 above. For standoffs (the nylon tubes) you could use aluminum tubing found at your local Hobby Shop.

RacerX8518

thanks brownlab.

I'm sure my spelling will improve one of these days.

ryanronning

Well After a couple of weeks of waiting for wind to die down I tried my luck. Long story short, I had added nose steering which ended up breaking due to stress. I am going to lock the front nose straight and give her a go hopefully tomorrow.

Here's a vid of the break...

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4abwQQaSX0]Breakage![/link]

brownlab

MERRY CHRISTMAZZZZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

brownlab

last week on tuesday i ordered a plane as a present for myself but it wont arrive until the 27th. but i got one today, now im going to have 2

ryanronning

It's spelled Christmas.

Taildragger726

Yeah now,, thats' the spirit!

papajeff

AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!



Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....................Yeahhhhhhhhh hhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

papajeff

Ryan,

What actually broke with your nose wheel steering system? Also, how about a photo so the Predator crew
can have a crack at some suggestions for a cure to the issue.

brownlab

i know i was just spelling it like that cause i was happy

ryanronning

I know, just giving you a little guff. Congrats on your new planes! What ones did you get (getting)? I was lucky enough to get a Kyosho P-51. But the winds here are killer in the winter, they had a gust of 102 mph last night in San Fernando Valley. Bad time for flying.

ryanronning

Well Sir, I am attaching a pic. Thisis the aftermath with the brace for the nose steering added. So the white brace that is there was not there before and the nose wheel could pivot. Originally I made the steering good for light loads. (I added a camera in the nose) So between the servo and nose bar there was a link. But the problem lies in I had the servo link secured with 30 minute epoxy. This was metal to plastic bond, which I am sure never works for high stress....

Any thoughts?

Also... I am using a "slow" fly prop. Should I switch to fast?

Thanks for everyone's input in advance.