grizz1

Na thunder tiger, thats not me on You Tube.

thunder_tiger_S2PRO

ow ok it just he had some buggy race vids i thought it was you

mozzzy_2000

Hey grizz yeah I've basically built the airframe of the heli and now I am waiting to purchase the rest of the gear. Ie all the electronics and she'll be good to go. Well crash no doubt lol. Lots too nice for me to fly hey. It will be a shame when I do scuff it up somewhat. It will be fun though.

Jas is your buggy up 'n running yet?

In regards to diff oils, I'd say 30K is too much for a buggy. Ok for a truggy but its a heavier drive train. I'd go for anywhere in between 7-10K in the center diff.

Those 'superchargers' are massive overkill I think. All that's doing is forcing air down the carby so effectively it really leans the engine out. I dont think engines would last long using those hey IHO. Each to their own I suppose. Like its been said, they're super expensive so I think the money would be better spent in getting engine modifications. Much better value for money in my opinion.

Jas the Ace

Hahaha.....No the beast hasn't been woken yet! Had it all ready to go last weekend then at the 11th hour all went sour. This weekend is looking good for a good paddock bash, I have my fingers crossed. We are expecting a couple fine days before more wet stuff falls from the skies. Well thats what the weather reporter says, and she is very nice to look at on the TV, so the predictions must be right, lol. I am not working for 3 weeks, so I should have a day or 2 to get some action in.

smittye7

What are some of the best servo's to upgrade for my hurricane........(steering) ..at a reasonable price? I take turns at a very high speed. Thanks!

ehroof

i would say go with the futaba's, they are decently priced. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=MAD

also email dennis at clermontmotorspors.com, he has some good servo's too and is a good guy: http://www.clermontmotorsports.com/servlet/StoreFront
[email protected]

bocajrs

I purchased a BlueBird 620MG servo for my steering and i am quite pleased with its performance...

thunder_tiger_S2PRO

hey guys, have any of you heard of the brand "Power Racing" ive got a motor its brand is "Power Racing" its a .28 motor, i was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this sort of brand and if they could tell me if its good or not, it has no pullstart (it has a backplate) fully aliminium carby with a turbo cooling head, it says on it, Made In Japan , are japinese motors good?? hope everythings going well this forum has died down a lil bit, lets not let this forum go boys & girls Thanks

ehroof

power racing is a decent company, i have thier on road car, the xr8, its a nice rc. I am pretty sure they use the infinity engine, i thougt it was a .27

http://powerracingrc.com/

smoothoperator

My Feedback: (1)

figured I would post this here too...

I've been messing around and designed some shock towers or the hurricane what do you guys think???




FRONT 2D



BACK 2D



FRONT 3D



BACK 3D



side



side

What do you guys think?

It's 5mm thick 7075 T6
will have polished faces, (cost of hard anodizing increases price too much.)

AND THE REAR

2D



3D



close up.

TThib

I am setting the mesh of the spur gear and clutchbell on a brandy-new Hurricane. I did the paper trick and everything seems fine. When I push it, it seems noisy to me (this is my first nitro...). Then again, this could be normal with 2 metal gears meshing. Yes, I am being over-cautious I suppose. Normal?

Edit: I also noticed the Low speed needle screw is pretty hard to turn IMO... normal again?

EDIT #2: NM, I'm a dope! If I turn the clutch bell (like it would when running) it is fine. Only when you push the buggy (spur driving clutchbell, does it make the clickety sound. And the LS idle screw is fine, has to be tough to turn...so it doesn't vibrate (duh...)

Back to your regularly scheduled program...

grizz1

Hi TThib, Gear mesh can be a little hard to explain, but it sounds like your not too far off. I normally set mine so if I hold the clutch bell gears stationary then move the spur gear back and forth, I have about half a clutch bell tooth length of movement back and forth on the spur gear (about 1.5 - 2mm). Hope this makes sense.
As long as you don't have too much slop or the gears are binding then you should be cool. These cars do make a little noise when you wheel them along the ground. Try putting the car up on something so all four wheels are off the ground and then slowly spin the rear wheels. You should have a nice smooth and quite rotation between clutch bell and spur gear like this.

Nice shock towers smoothoperator [8D]

chance3

Hi I just got a Hurricane XP, this is my first nitro RC and i can't get it to idle right
it revs realy high, I dont even push the throttle and it will go
if I hit the brakes to make it stop it sounds like it keeps reving higher and higher until I let it go
can anyone help thanks

Jas the Ace

Have a look on your controller, you should see a couple switches there saying 'NOR/REV' or something similar. If the one for your throttle is on "normal" or "nor" just switch it to 'Rev' or 'Reverse'. Then turn everything on and test the operation on the bench (without starting the engine) Does the brake come on now when you pull the brakes on?
Give it a go, and if it is not the signal setting it could be other things like air leaks etc, but try switching the signal direction on the controller first, good luck.

mozzzy_2000

TThib, as Grizz was saying, the clutch/spur gear mesh can be a little tricky to get right. Grizz couldn;t have explained it better; even with a good mesh the drive train is still rather noisy. But it still should roll freely if you push it along on its wheels. If its binding at all you'll feel resistance or it will feeling like its catching. As he says as well if you hold onto the spur and wiggle the clutch bell there should be about a 1mm of free play in the mesh.

Chance3 if Jas's suggestion with the servo direction doesn;t work have you tried adjusting the idle screw down? Whilst the engine is not running, when you look down the carby throat the gap in the carby, when in neutral, should be about 1/16 of the throat diameter. In other words there should be just a slither of a gap. If the gap is too large your engine will idle too high. Conversely if its too small you will have trouble keeping the engine running. Anyway try adjusting the idle screw down(Anti clockwise) and see if this brings the idle down. Also before you start it make sure that the servo is closing the carby fully off. Also as Jas suggest it does make good practise to test the radio and servo function before starting the engine.

euphorik

Hello All. I just purchased the Hurricane XP and I am awaiting its arrival. I’m loving how helpful and friendly the people on this forum are and I really think I am going to get hooked on this Nitro RC stuff. Unfortunately where I am moving back to (Syracuse, NY) There is no tracks that I know of. Except walts hobby shop but they don’t allow nitro. Well this is my intro so I can get seen on the forums. Couple questions. What is a good fuel to break my buggy in and use in general. I have ordered a Durbo inline fuel filter and some air filter oil to arrive before the buggy to get that in and I have been looking @ the upgrade recommendations. Just scratching my head about the fuel. I am thinking some O'Donnell R2R 20% Nitro. The store nearest me sells Trinity Fuel. They have 20% nitro but I believe its only 12% castor/synthetic oil. Is that enough or what? Any suggestions? Thanks. Peter (Euphoric)

grizz1

Hi Peter, Welcome to the world of nitro !!, you will love it. The trusty Hurricane is a great starting buggy as you have probably read in this forum.
IMO I would recommend breaking your engine in on 15% fuel with a reasonably high oil content. Run a litre of this through during your initial break in, then change to whatever you intend to run on, and complete another 10 or so careful tanks on this before you let it rip. I am not sure what engine you have in your Hurricane but most of the .21 or .28 engines run best on 25%. This is a good percentage, giving good power without placing to much strain on the engine etc. Once you go to 30% you are pushing it a little and many engines require extra head shims etc to run properly on any more than 25%.
Use the heat cycle method of break in (mentioned in many previous posts, or just google some details). Keep a clean air filter on at all times and make sure you have got plenty of exhaust smoke right through the rev range and you will be sweet

euphorik

From what the specs on my invoice say I have M .28 P3 engine in it. Ill verify when It gets here. (USPS Priority shipping to hawaii, hoping late this week or def early next week.) So your recommendations are pretty much on point for what I am looking for if I do indeed have the .28 . I have already spotted the heat cycle method and intend to use it. Seems like a good and logical method. And I will def keep the air filter clean. Thats why I got the oil since from what I read the redcat air filters come dry. Since you mentioned this in the recommendations I am gonna purchase some extra foam filter pieces as soon as I can. Now how about those filter covers they sell. Worth it? It seems like they could be, but I dont wanna deplete any air from the engine.

grizz1

I have never bothered with one of those covers, but I always run a second "outer" filter over the normal oiled filter. These are just a foam sleeve that slips over the normal air filter. I use the GS model, which is available online from A-Main. Run this outer filter dry over the inner oiled filter and you should have no worries about dust getting into the engine. I wouldn't recommend washing used filters out in fuel and re-using them either. All you are doing is soaking the captured dirt right through the filter. If you use the outer sleeve filter you will find your inner oiled filters last a lot longer before becoming too dirty. Filters are not expensive, so when they become a bit clogged just throw them out and put on a new one. Cheap insurance for a long lasting engine.
Check out those filter sleeves at http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...9faat26vfgpu16
They are the 7th item from the top (GSC701017-2) The price shown is for a packet of 2.
Just a note - when you are oiling your filters don't use them soaking with oil. Put them in a plastic zip-lock bag with some oil and scrunch the filter around until it is thoroughly soaked through, then place it in a piece of paper towel and squeeze or pat out the extra oil. You want it discoloured with the oil but not wringing wet, otherwise it can restrict air flow and make the engine hard to tune properly, plus they will clog too easily. Hope you get your buggy in time for the weekend so you can start to play [8D]

euphorik

Thanx for all the help and tips grizz. I will def check out the outer filters. And I really hope I get my buggy by the weekend.

mozzzy_2000

fellas how are we?

Hey grizz do you throw out your air filters when they become dirty? Wow I've never done that hey. I just wash them when they start to look dirty. First wash them in WD40 and then finish them off with dishwasher liquid. Gets them looking new again. Try it and save the cash for glow plugs for instance.

Also just in regards to runins and fuel %'s; I really think its better if you pick an fuel % and stick with it right from the beginning. Thats my opinion anyway. I just think its unnecessary hey and infact using 2 different fuels is almost always going to cause a relative beginner more problems as the tuning becomes more complicated. Anyway like I said Its my humble opinion and I like to keep things simple and easy. No need to complicate the issue I reckon.

grizz1

Cheers Mozzy. Valid points. I am just going on what I picked up from the LHS guru. He has always liked to "soften up" a new engine with 1 litre of a lower % nitro during that initial high wear break in period. I started out washing my filters in nitro fuel and re-using them, then I came across these "Team Losi" double foam filters that come pre oiled in a pack of 4 for approx AUS$12. With the outer filter sleeve I use these filters last for ages, so I figure just replace them when they have seen better days. The outer sleeves I do blow out with a compressed air gun and reuse. Because they are not oiled they clean up no problem.
How is that truggy of yours going mate. What are your feelings on truggy vs buggy. I am deciding which one I am going to concentrate on racing this year. Running two cars is a little expensive, plus at club meetings you are like a one armed paper hanger trying to keep both cars running sweetly with little time between heats. I am leaning towards the buggy at present. I guess buggy racing is the purest form of off road. My CL-1 Pro is great to drive. Super responsive and just that little bit quicker being lighter. Having said that the buggy is a little harder to drive on bumpy tracks, but thats half the challenge eh

euphorik

Yea I am gonna just start and stick with 20% nitro. The closest hobby store sells Trinity fuel so i may try that. But the 12% oil content kind of worries me a little. I am gonna use this method to break my buggy in.
[link=http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php]Break In[/link] . It Seems logical and simple enough. Thanx for all your inputs guys. Cheers Euphorik

mozzzy_2000

Hey grizz yeah there's definately 2 schools of thought in regards to that run in method. I've tried it but always ran into problems when switching fuels. I've always been told to always stick with the same % fuel. Anyway I guess its a personal choice in the end.

Yeah my truggy is in need of some fine tuning at this stage. It definately comes set up stock for very bumpy tracks and as such on grass its not so good. Problem is most of my running is on grass so I really need to thoroughly go over it and fine tune it. Suspension really needs some tweaking as its pretty spongy at the moment. Maybe perhaps its just the fact that I am not accustomed to it as I am with the buggy but I still prefer a buggy at this stage. Thats not to say my truggy aint any good. Its just no where near tuned as my buggy is for grass. I imagine this XT8 is quite spectacular when properly set up. Will take some time though.

In regards to fuel %, there's nothing wrong with 11% oil content. Infact thats right about spot on in my opinion. As long as you run a touch rich when you run in it should be fine. I used to run fuel around 18% oil content and it was useless compared to the fuel I use now which runs an oil content of around 11-12%.

euphorik

Well the trinity fuels get pretty good talk about them so I think I should be alright using it. Im gonna head down and get some of the fuel an infared temp gauge tommorow after I wake up from after work so I will be pretty much ready for my buggies arrival . I am Working tonight 1700-0500 then a Meeting afterwards until 0830 so hopefully I dont sleep all day [:'(] Thats the Navy for you. [:@]