samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Flaps (cont)

pic 1:
The center wing is FG so I had to use a dremel deburring bit to enlarge the hinge pocket hole and put in a recess for the set screw mount.

pic 2:
Hinge and pocket dry fitted.

pic 3:
flaps dry fitted to all wings.

pic 4:
After the usual axle grease on the set screw, I epoxied (with micro-balls) the pockets into the TE of the wings.

pic 5:
I left the hinges in the pockets to insure they are properly aligned.
Let the epoxy 'cook' for an hour or so and then I can remove the hinges and epoxy the hinges into the flaps.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Flaps (cont)

pic 1:
A 3 sided hole was cut in the heavy duty ply in the center wing and some 3/8" ply was epoxied to each side of the hole to raise the servo high enough to have the servo arm above the surface of the wing.
The right hole is for the gear servo.

pic 2:
A Hitec HS-5645 168 oz at 6v servo is used for the flaps.
Note that the servo arm is 'in line' with the push rod to the control horn on full down flaps to insure less stress on the gears versus having the arm at some other angle.
4-40 ball sockets at both ends.
Nothing fancy for the air valve since there's no inner doors to worry about.
I'll connect this up later.

pic 3:
On the transmitter, I needed 150% for flaps up and 137% for flaps down.
The X9303 has an extra long two position toggle switch for the flaps on the top left side of the transmitter.

pic 4:
Flaps up

pic 5:
Flaps 50% down (1st positon on the toggle).

pic 6:
Flaps 100% down (2nd position on the toggle)

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

Samuel:
Could you please tell me what size Ziroli DUMMY Radial you are using?

Approx. weight. Thinking I might need he weight too, am using a G62 up front.

Thanks.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Roger,
I didn't see any name on the package but the diameter is 9 1/4" across.
I checked Ziroli's catalog and didn't see this size: only 10 1/5" for the AT-6.
I'm guessing the 10 1/2" is the same.
It's cast so I'm guessing around 1.5 lbs.

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks, saw this in your first few post.

Appreciate the build thread, you are getting close to where mine is.

Hope to fly it sometime in 08 and make some warbird events with it.

Maybe meet up somewhere............LOL.................Fly formation

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Roger,
I usually attend about 12 meets a year.
Muncie on Labor Day is tops on my list.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Panel lines.

pic 1/2/3/4/5/6:
If I'm going to put landing lights in, I need to know what panel they go in.
I used the molded lines off the center FG panel wing to reference the location of the panel lines on the outer wings.
It took me three tries to get the rib lines on the ailerons correct: 1 7/8" between the lines with the last inner rib being a little closer to the edge of the aileron.
Later, I'll use some 1/32" wide chartpak tape and then put multiple primer coats along the tape.
The cartpak tape came from:
http://www.suppliesnet.com

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Panel lines (cont)

pic 1/2:
Bottom panels lines are slightly different than the top.

-------------------
Retracts (cont)

pic 3:
Epoxy was missing between the main spar and the FG so before putting any lines in, I zap-a-dap'ed the inner ply to the outer FG on the center wing. Not sure if it was needed but I figured: it won't hurt!

pic 4:
I drilled three holes in the rib just below the gear mount to route the air lines and landing light wires.

pic 5:
I cut a slot in the retract ply and epoxied the air valve mount into the slot.

pic 6:
The servo screws hold the retract tray to the center wing.

pic 7:
Very little servo movement is needed: +50 and -11.
(top right in LCD screen)

pic 8:
Air lines connected to air valve and T's used to route to each retract.

pic 9:
Air lines routed through the previously drilled holes.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Retracts (cont)

pic 1:
I need to also route the landing light wires before putting in the wheel wells.
Here's my cordless drill.
It was the first cordless drill out on the market.
Very reliable, batteries never wear out and you have infinite variable speed control (also Y2K compatible!).
I need my cordless drill for those landing light wires that are all unraveled.

pic 2:
A vise and my cordless drill gives me a nice set of wires that are easy to route through holes.

pic 3:
The third hole gets the landing light wires.

pic 4/5:
I needed to route the air lines and wires through the center wing before epoxy'ing the wheel well into the wing,
since it appears that routing lines will be difficult to do after the wheel well is epoxied in.
(wheel well dry fitted in this pic)

johnnyo

My Feedback: (7)

Samual, just a note, got your email, glad things will work out on the rudder cabels. I noticed your aerlerone set up. I used this same configuation to activate the aerlones on my true scale 1/5 T28 (100" wing). Works great, looks good, no linkage hanging out. Unfortuantly it really does not perform as well as you might think on these large models. I actually used 4/40 steel rods and brass sleaves with no slop in the rod to sleave, very tight fit, no slop. On the third flight we decided to do a bit of a high speed run down the field. lo and behold tremendous flutter from the aerlones. I am using 180oz digitals on these surfaces. Fortuantely do to my over built wing design the aircraft sustained no damage to the wing etc., slowed down and landed. Researching the problem we found that when the servo is in the nutural position there is no mechanical advantage on the servo arm, there is no load on the servo, thus the tiniest bit of slop in this position is going to give you problems. I have since installed conventional set up and have not had another problem. If you keep the T6 in a conservative flight mode you may not have a porblem, however, get the power up and the nose down for that impresive low fly-by. be ready. I know there are some large models being flown with this set up, such as Bob Pattons 120" T28, Bob is a very good but pretty conservative flyer and doesn't really push the his aircraft. So just a word to the wise, been there, done that.
Great build article
johnnyO

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

G. Samuel,

I like your T-6 project. I noticed your comment on doing a poor job on glassing. I was taught a trick from a glider pilot about 10 years ago. It is probably the single most important trick I have ever learned in the hobby during the last 30 years. Do all your glassing exactly and you did then when you get your glass down, wetted, and squeeged out. You then take toilet paper and roll it against the glassed surface. Roll it on itself. Not rolling it out. When the outer layer of the toilet paper is soaked you peal it off and roll some more. It is unbelievable. The toilet paper does not stick to the glassed surface. All the excess resin is soaked up. The glass it pushed down hard against the balsa and you will have little to no sanding involved and none of the concave wrinkles and waviness you ended up with. Try it on a scrap piece of balsa. It will change how you view glassing for ever. I only wish I had gotten to your thread earlier.

Leo Spychalla

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Johnnyo,
You make some good points about the internal linkage.
What you say makes sense when you think about it.
I fly my warbirds pretty scale but I'll have to keep an eye on those first flights.
I'm glad that I added the 1/8" ply to the bottom surfaces so I can easily convert over to external linkage if needed.

Leo,
I'll have to try to remember to use the TP trick the next time I do some glassing (that'll be the Yellow P-38).

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

panel lines (cont)

pic 1:
Not much to do for panel lines on the tail feathers.
The ribs on the elevator gives the needed natural rib lines, plus it appears from my reference book that Yellow put the ribs in a scale location (two ribs are close together as the book shows).
--------------------

Mains (cont)

pic 2/3/4:
I zap-a-dap'ed the wheel wells in.
Some scotch tape as well as clamps did the trick.
I was thinking of making them removable but, instead, used lots of zap-a-dap to let the wells re-inforce that LE area that doesn't really have a LE.
---------------

Motor (cont)

pic 5:
The fire wall does not have built in offset for the motor so I'm using washers.
I'm putting them on the backside of the 3/8" ply spacer to insure all four contacts on the motor are in the same plane (as in mathematics plane): I don't want to 'rack' the engine mount as this could damage the engine when it's running.
As noted in the picture, three washers in the top right, one in the top left, two in the bottom right and none in the bottom left.
This will give me right and down offset.
I zap-a-dap'ed the washers so they won't fall off.
This will also make it easier for future repair: no washers falling off and wondering what order they were in.

pic 6:
Viewed from the top.
About 2-3 degrees offset.
I'm hoping this is enough: Big engines (75cc) on a narrow footprint landing gear tend to veer to the left.
If anyone has any experience on this and think I need more, let me know.

pic 7:
Side view.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Mains (cont)

pic 1:
I used a Fein detail sander on removing part of the wheel well that was protruding above the surface of the wing and finished off sanding the final detail by hand.
-------------

Landing lights (cont)

pic 2:
I guess it pays to keep broken junk around: I used this old canopy to make lense covers for the landing lights.
Those blister packs that contain items would probably also be good.

pic 3:
I used a heat gun to get the clear plastic to wrap around the LE of the wing.
It necessary to hold the plastic down so it gets a little hot by the fingers when heating the plastic.
Care has to be taken: too much heat can distort the plastic.
You could also get some thinner plastic and just wrap it around the edge.

pic 4/5:
I wanted the plastic 1.5" wide but due to the angle of the LE, I had to make two more that were wider and then trim after they are formed.

pic 6:
A 1/2" long drill bit was used to make a hole from the inside of each outer wing to the landing light hole.

pic 7/8:
The headlight and tools used to get the headlight to fit flush to the LE of the wings.
I used a razor saw to cut each side down to the depth that I wanted, then an X-acto blade to remove the waste to give me the desired notch in the wings.
Care was taken not to make the notch too deep because the LE balse block is not very large.

pic 9/10/11:
I used #0x3/16" screws to hold the plastic onto the wing.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Landing lights (cont)

pic 1:
I used RAM #16 landing light system.
It also comes with a contact switch and is 9 volts.
This is low tech and the contact will be set up to the air valve servo.
I'll also need to route this to the main panel to turn off the lights when the gear is down but not flying.
I'll also need to put an access hatch in the bottom of the center wing for replacement of the 9 volt battery.
LED's would be less of a drain on a battery.
Also, you can get them to electronically turn on via the receiver.

pic 2:
I used some old extensions for plugs between the outer and inner wing.
Some heat shrink tubing was used to seal the solder joints.

pic 3/4/5:
Always cool to have lights on a plane to give it the wow factor.

pic 6:
Small tin snipes are great for cutting canopy plastic, especially the curved ones as they let you cut straight lines without binding on the plastic.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Landing lights

pic 1/2:
I mounted the contact switch next to the servo and the other side of the servo arm moves the contact switch and turns the lights on.
off position: gears up
on position: gears down.
I still need to cut one of the wires going to the battery and route it to the on/off switch in the main panel.

---------------------
JR X9303 2.4

pic 3/4:
As mentioned previously, the receiver didn't work when I accidentally knocked the remote wire off of the remote receiver.
I thought this is potentially dangerous in the air so I wanted to see what happens if a second remote is used.
I connected another remote to the main receiver and then 'bound' the transmitter to the three receivers (main and two remotes).
I then removed one of the remotes and the other two receivers continued to operate.
After re-plugging the disconnected remote, its LED kept flashing which indicates to me that 'binding' has to be redone to get this remote 'back on board'.
With this new knowledge, I'm now going to use two remotes on all main receivers.
I found a few more interesting items.
The 'bind' plug must go into a three wire plug (no two wire plugs).
'Binding' will only occur on the main battery port on the main receiver: you can't use the 2nd battery port nor any of the other ports.
I don't claim to be an expert on this new 2.4 but these are my initial findings (hopefully not flawed!).

pic 5:
The additional remote receiver plus another wire runs about $40.
I see that JR has a new 'heavy duty' 2.4 receiver (AR9100 DSM2)that can handle more current and comes with three remotes for about $200.
Logic dictates, economically, that it's worth just buying the AR9100 if you're going to add another remote receiver.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Nav lights.

Does anyone know where the white light (assuming white) goes on the fuse (if one exists).
I was figuring the top of the rudder but I can't find any evidence of any in my research.
The FG wing tips has Nav lights and I'm assuming red on the left and green/blue on the right.
thanks,

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

Some full scale pics

rongreg13

My Feedback: (129)

Most of your Texans had the tail recognition lights in the TE of the rudder as can be seen in the post above or in this photo of a bare rudder.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Roger and Ron:
Thanks, I didn't even think of looking at the bottom of the rudder.
Is it white on the rudder, left wing red and right wing blue?

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

Some more pics, these are from Oshkosh last year.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

From the pictures, it looks like the right wing is green and the tail is white so I'm guessing that the left wing is red.

ROGER RUSSELL

My Feedback: (12)

Be my best guess.
That is why I posted them.
Let you decide.........LOL

Have more pics of T6's.

If have anymore questions, might be able to find a pictire of it.?

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Roger,
Thanks for the pictures. They really made my day.

-------------------
Engine (cont)

pic 1/2:
I connected up the choke/throttle servos to the engine.
All 4-40 ball and socket and heavy duty Sullivan guide tubing.

------------------
Nav lights (cont)

pic 3:
Here's the center wing.
The yellow battery case will be for the nav lights.
In this picture is the Y and two 12" extensions for the ailerons.
Also, the gear and flap extensions are connected.
I also cut one of the wires going to the landing light battery and ran it to the switch on the main panel.
I used both ends of an old extension for the wire running to and back to the switch on the main panel.
The 'rats nest' will be 'dressed up' later.

pic 4:
LED's, etc from Radio Shack.
I got the high intensity LED's so they were more expensive: the whole thing costs around 30 bucks.
part numbers:
276-307: Red LED (1.7 v)
276-304: green LED (2.1 v)
276-320: white LED (3.6)
276-079: LED holders
275-407: DPDT slide switches
270-401A: AA battery holder.
plus 22 gauge stranded wire: black and red.
I mounted the 4 battery holders on some 1/8" ply (will only need 3 battery holders)
They are all mounted side by side.
The are set up to get 2.4 (2 batteries) and 3.6 volts (3 batteries) since each battery is rated at 1.2 v.
The far left one has the red wire at the near end and the black wire at the other end is brought forward and soldered to the red wire on the 2nd battery holder.
Then the black wire on the back of the 2nd battery wire is brought forward and soldered to the red wire on the 3rd battery holder and this was soldered to a brass screw: this gives us our first 2.4 volts between this screw and the red wire on the first battery holder.
You can leave off the 4th battery holder and just run the black wire on the 3rd battery holder to the front and solder it to another brass screw. This gives us our 3.6 volts between this brass screw and the red wire on the first battery holder.
We need different voltages since each color requires different voltages (nothing's ever easy!).
The nav lights will be turned on via switches in the main panel.
The switch are double pole double throw (DPDT).
Since we have different voltages, we'll be using one side for one voltage and the other side for another voltage (we'll do this later).
Since LED's are diodes, the must be connected up in the proper flow of DC current: The easiest way is: if they don't light up one way, just reverse the leads.
If you look at the side of the LED, there is a wide and a narrow metal plate inside the LED: connect the red wire to the lead going to the narrow plate. Also, use a low wattage iron and best to put a heat sink on the lead when soldering.
I doubt if these LED's are heavy duty so don't try (or accidently) put more voltage than they can handle or they'll burn out.
The nice thing LED's have over bulbs is the current drain is so small that the batteries won't have to be charged very often.
Later, I'll be putting an access panel in the bottom of the center wing to get access to these batteries.
The nice thing about these LED's are that they are clear until energized.



pic 5/6:
Here's the red LED in place on the left wing.
I'm running the 1.7 red LED off two batteries (2.4) which doesn't seem to bother it.
(last summer, I let them sit for a couple hours and they didn't burn out)
It's not exactly scale but, as I said before, I'm not going to the masters.
I just want some nav lights that most pilots standing and looking at them will think they are cool.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Nav lights (cont)

pic 1:
Use heat shrink tubing to protect from shorts.

pic 2:
Green LED on right wing connected.