Big_Bird

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I really like the color scheme of Liesel Bach's 1936 Bu133C. I didn't find the top and bottom views. I think they would be essential.

Here is another good source: http://www.airliners.net/search/phot...ywords=BU-133C

Kevin, on Roger's second link there are several photos of LG-01 and lots more on the link above.

Roger I also have quiet a few photos of U-79.

rabacon

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In one of the photos of Liesel with her AC you can just make out the registration lettering on the top wing. There is also another Bu133 in the background with its registration on the top wing as well. From what I understand of situation in Germany at the time with the economy in the crapper, the Riech subsidized local flying clubs to train aviators (who were bound for the Luftwaffe or thier respective training schools) and to bolster the nations self-image, I would venture to speculate that although the AC for these clubs were top notch, there was not a lot of wasted time and materials put into customizing AC for the pilots other than, for example Liesel's name on the turtle deck. So with this in mind I am guessing that the top and bottom views of most club planes were the same, registration letters only. Thats my theory and its what Im going with. What really grabs me about this AC is the eye-grabbing effect of her personalization and the large registration letters. Add to that a the fin flash of red with the swatsi and you have a real easy-to-do finish that should really have some presence on the field and in the air.

Thanks for the link to airliners, I forgot about that one. I have to order a Bucker polo shirt for maiden flight day from the Bucker store link. I think that would top off the day and at least be a nice sleeve to wipe the tears on if the unthinkable happens I was going to do the yellow/red Swiss livery before I found Liesel's AC. Im itchin to spray some paint now. Thanks for all of your help, Ken and crew. Roger.

rabacon

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Hey guys, hope all is well. I am ready to shoot paint so I am trying to put together a stencil order for D-EJJI. Do any of you have a source that shows all of the little info lettering around the AC. I have a few but most photos arent clear enough to zoom in on the stenciled placards around the airframe. Any help would be apprieciated even if you only have one item. You may have a pic of the area I dont have. Thanks and hope your projects are comming along. Roger.

Big_Bird

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Roger, PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you photos of what I have for U-79. They are pretty good.

rabacon

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Thanks Ken.

rabacon

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Hail all Bucker builders. While waiting for the temps to rise so I can paint, I have been playing with details. Zippered panel on the fuse was giving me fits trying to find the appropriate sized zippers locally. The wife gave me the evil eye when she found me ready to canabilize my daughters doll clothes!!! Plus, all the nice ladies at the fabric shops were not tracking when I tried to explain what I was looking for. So I searched the web and found my zippers at where?? www.tinyzippers.com
whodathunkit??

Meanwhile I wait for warm weather and pay some attention to my sailboat and she does need some TLC. Hope you guys are getting along well. Roger

kevin mcgrath

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Hello All

I have the two lower wing panels done and could use some help regarding rigging them to the fuse.Do I need the two top panels to do the basics?
I assume the interplane struts thread into the blind nuts installed in the fittings in the lower panels and are threaded in or out to achieve the necessary position to rig the rest or am I totally off base?

rabacon

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Kevin, I completed all wing panels prior to rigging. You can complete the root rib attachment part of the lower panels but you will need the upper wings to construct the interplanes as the distance between panels(whatever yours turns out to be) will determine the exact lengths of your interplanes. I dont beleive the interplane attachment points were designed or intended to be used for adjusting incidence but you probably could do that. I think it would make for a weak interplane attachment. I ended up shiming my IP fittings and then snugging them down good to get everything to line up and keep correct incidence. this is where you need the top wings. I think the key point is to have the ply root ribs installed and set for proper dihedral and incidence before attacking the interplane struts. I also found that the wings are very limber and even with the root ribs holding the proper incidence at the inboard part of the wing the outboard part of the wing must be set and held by the interplanes, thier x-brace wires, and the landing and flying wires simultaneously. My best words of encouragement are set aside a good block of quality time for this and eat a good breakfast before you start! Best of luck. Roger.

Vermilioncliffs

Good day ALL!!

Have been sorta quiet for some time. I've been working on my 1/3 scale fuse this winter. The Ariz. plans and laser cutting are not the quality I would have liked. Regardless I have worked through my frustrations and by following the thread have found answers to most questions.

I am starting to think dihedral and I'm not sure of the AZ template. Somewhere in the thread it was mentioned dihedral for the lower wing is 3.5 degrees and the upper 1.5 degrees. Now for the dumb part of my question, is that negative or positive? I have heard that some planes use a negative dihedral and I want to be sure.

I really appreciate having this thread as a resource. Spring is finally arriving in the desert but every time I think about flying the wind comes up. Cross winds just don't work for the stretch of highway I use with sage and cactus along the shoulders. Thanks Guys....Kirt

kevin mcgrath

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Dihedral is normally positive but there are some few designs that use negative but this aint one of them.
Bet the positive negative discussion you are thinking of referred to wing incidence and that is a subject you could get into a fight on particularly with bipe design.
The incidence and dihadral angles are quite clear on the original MAN plans fpr tjhis model which is what I have .I scratch built mine so I dont know what is included in the Arizona kit but Im sure one of the others here will know........

rabacon

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Kirt, sounds like you are referring to tip heights to set dihedral. the bottom wing tips are set 3.5 inches from the board to set the lower dihedral. 1.5 inches above the bottom of the upper center section sounds correct for the upper wings. I set my lower wing tips to 3.5 and the top wing kind of set itself. It is situations like this where I turn to the TLAR method of building.

Big_Bird

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Kevin, I am in complete agreement with everything Roger said.

Before any rigging is done you need to have all of the parts (4 - wing panels, flying/landing wire material. and X brace material) ready to use. You need to have the top center section finished and mounted with the correct incidence set. You need a 6' table for the wing panels to be over and another table or stand for the tail wheel to rest on. Raise the tail end so that the fuselage is at 0 degrees. You need some books to act as props for the outboard wing panels. Level the table and set the lower wing panel dihedral with a Robart incidence meter. Hopefully the inboard root rib will match the fuselage. Screw the strut fittings in place. Place the struts on the fittings. Make the X bracing. Drill a hole through the ends of the strut material for a screw (or two) that will lock the strut to the mounting tab. With the struts in place, check the dihedral with the Robart meter and mark the mounting tab through the strut screw hole. You may have to remove the mounting tab to drill the hole or holes. Assemble the struts and recheck dihedral and wing incidence. If necessary make a sleight incidence adjustment with the X bracing. Make the flying and landing wires. Don't depend on adjusting these to change incidence or dihedral. They need to be attached with no slack. Mine are all soldered. Nothin tuit. HUH!

rabacon

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Ken, thanks for posting those pics. They show how you did your leather rigging boots and that is one of the details I am working on now. You just saved me a couple of hours of mental gymnastics, awesome!

Kevin, exactly what Ken said and in that order. I am still tired from that step.

Roger

Big_Bird

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Roger, that is brown vinyl fabric that I bought at the fabric store. I simply cut pieces out, trimed them to shape, and glued the overlap with CA. Very easy to do.

rabacon

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Thanks Ken. Ive been painting small parts over the past week. Still too cold to spray the big parts in the garage. I could run the heater but then I have limited ventilation and the smell creeps inside the house which = unhappy spouse. I have been using Krylon's new formula in semi-flat for small bits and I really like the paint. 12 minutes for dry to touch and no runs as advertised on the can. This I can do in the basement shop without too much stink. Interplanes are painted so I am ready to add those boots.

Big_Bird

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What's a basement? I saw one on TV once. None around here.

rabacon

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the wife calls it the man-cave. I call it my half of the house!

kevin mcgrath

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Evening All
Been spending much time in the shop on the Meister and its coming along.
I know Roger used aluminim streamlined tubing with 4/40 wire inside for the inter aileron links but Im curious what you used Ken........the plans show 2/56 wire which sounds kinda light to me......best setup I have seen came in an ARF Bipe from RC guys which used carbon fibre tubing..........neat and mucho strong.......

duzall

Just wondering what control throws you are using on your 1/3 scale Jungmeisters-I have set up the throws listed on the plans and they looked like too much. After the first flight (which was interesting) I think I will reduce them a fair bit so that they are relatively similar to my Krier Kraft (while still keeping the listed ones as a high rate option).

rabacon

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Mine are set to plans but I am still in the finishing stages. What was "interesting" about your maiden flight [X(]??

Big_Bird

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I used 4-40 rods inside streamlined tubing. No problem with them. I never remove them since the wings always stay together.

duzall, I think throws are a personal preference as long as the plane flies OK. I usually opt for a lot of throw and then tame it down with some expo on the transmitter. I never use dual rates. By the way, what name do you go by?

duzall

I thought that there was a bit much throw, which made it a bit twitchy. So I'll try a bit more expo-how much do you use?

Thanks,

Kelvin

Big_Bird

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Kelvin, try about -24%. You don't want to get it too soft around neutral.

duzall

OK, thanks, I'll see how that goes...

Big_Bird

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Can you still buy the 1/3 scale Jungmeister plans from Model Airplane News? They only list 1/6 and 1/4 on their web site. I have a guy in Spain wanting to buy a set. He bought the set from Arizona Model Aircrafters and they are not very good.