Katman

Juice?

Thanks for that RCV link! Pretty handy info too....seem to be getting the theory now air has to be basically forced over an engine enclosed inside a cowl to get maximum cooling.... hence that sharp angle up at the back on the baffle in your diagram. I'll just have to figure out how close i can safely put that back edge to motor. I'm actually still undecided on baffle material! Thinking milk jug plastic, or maybe just 1/16" balsa sheet....lighter the better as already think it'll be nose heavy and will have to move battery etc back. And that's without the Al spinner in near future. The curvature of a soda bottle would be nice for the baffle, but if i recall that clear plastic is not temp tolerant at all. Anyone with material ideas bring them on!
Anxious to hear more info from you on all my RCV/PTS questions -


Mr502go - Thanks for another handy tip here on the PTS forum - i'd have never thought of using expanded foam. Thats a great idea to secure lots of stuff. After it's Dremeled, i have an add to save epoxying it if you're just trying to smooth it - if it has a solvent that works well w/it(alcohol, lacquer thnr, acetone, etc) maybe that could be wiped over with a rag to smooth it and save the wgt and time of epoxy? Then paint it. May take acetone but i'm thinking lacquer first. Some of that is latex-based which means "Goof-off" would work perfect as it removes latex! Durability-wise it's fine for its use without epoxy. Just a thought.....
now if i'll just take the time to do retracts.....[:@]

Katman

mr502go

Katman. . . AWESOME idea on the thinner. . . I'll check on that tomorrow!! My main reason for epoxying was to fuelproof, but I guess an appropriate rattle can paint will do fine for that.

charlie1960

its coming together.

charlie1960

IT LIVES !!!!

three excellent flights this morning while the wind was calm.
and the APC 11x9x4 prop was excellent.....lots of speed and thrust, just being a slender prop, doesnt slow the plane down when i throttle back.
still need to cover the wings in yellow.....or not.....

rcnut63

hay guiys i want to know that i like the pts ive flowen it ten to t6lve tomes and i like it

mr502go

glad to hear the 11X9 is working well. . . that's alotta prop. What kinda revs are ya gettin out of the engine??

charlie1960

havent a clue as to RPM's, but will find out and let you know.
its the stock Evo .45 the plane came with with the baffle out of the muffler.
i shoud know in a day or two....

i do know it flys faster than i can think......lol....

mr502go

LOL Mustangs have a way of doing that. . . when r ya flying it for the first time??

perrin123

I bought the Hanger 9 p-51 trainer last summer and it is great. I put a OS 55ax in it instead of the evolution that comings in the RTF. If it wasnet for this plane i would have gotten bored with the standard high wign trainers and quit before i fell in love with the hobby. All the old schoolers at my field said i would never be able to learn to fly on a warbird...they were WRONG. It took about a month before the air brakes and wing exstentions came off and i was soloing. With these peices off the plane flys like a dream. The OS engine has more power then i need. The plane is a tank when it comes to durablity. It has hanlded my learning curve with only minor repairs (some balsa replacement and coverin repairs...mostly due to speed :P ). You can get the AFT for about 129.00. I used the jf 537 servos that came with my jr radio for the plane and they work great. I would recommend this plane for anyone just starting out or someone who want a good plane that can be turned back into a trainer for a fiend.

apdw

I start off with a PTS and a good instructor. Find fly easy after a short time even in strong wind but on the groud she is difficult to handle. How do one get this plane to make a nice straight take off along the centre of the strip? To keep her straiht after landing on the relative narrow strip af landing are also difficult. Will it help to modify the landing gear? Will exponetial settings on the transmitter help? Any other sugestions? For the rest a very nice plane.

stallwart

As with most planes..........especially with tail draggers........you'll have to learn to give a little right rudder on take off. How much rudder input and when to ease off will vary from plane to plane. Some folks "firewall" the throttle to overcome the plane's tendency to drift to the left, but I don't advise getting into that habit.

bettungesvik

I have nearly 200 flights on my PTS and I found the same problem with mine. It seemed with every takeoff I was adding more and more rudder. This got old quick so I began to investigate. What I found was the plastic hubs had worn out and the wheels were leaning against the strut. I replaced the wheels and now she takes off with ease...

mouthpiec

my solution for this is to take off with half the throttle

djsdog

apdw,

Someone said early on to angle the landing gears inward a little and that would at least make it a little more stable, I did this and it seemed to help. Also, mouthpiec said too much throttle on take off will cause the ground handling to get worse and I found this to be true at least on initial take off roll.

stallwart is right, that "especially tail draggers" tend to have worse handling tendences on the ground. When you fly I'll bet you use little or no rudder in your turns or for manuvering. If this is true, try using your rudder alot more during flight when you are flying (like initiating a turn) and you will be more used to using it and this may help your mind to tell your thombs its there better and I think it might help you while handling your plane on the ground. It worked for me!

HUNTERANDJEFF

I have always been a guy that rarely used rudder so takeoffs for me were rather shakey. That is untill I got a flight simulator. I have Reflex from Ivol and in the last year I have doubled - maybe even tripled my flying abilities. It has saved me alot of $$$$$$$$$ in crashes. I practiced alot of flying with rudder initially and now I cannot fly a real RC plane without using it really weird for my flying this way now but alot better coordinated turns and it also keeps those wings a bit flatter in the final leg toward the landing strip so tip stalling isn't really an issue now. knowing how to fly with the rudder without thinking about it is great because if you do get into trouble in the air you will be able to correct it easily without crashing. With this flight simulator I can fly my big extra 330L without fear of tip stalling it and not knowing what to do.
You don't have to have an expensive flight sim - FMS is free and Clearview is about 50 bucks. All you need is something to practice hand-eye coordination to get the idea of it.
Hope this helps,
Jeff

jorgy-Delta

With the very large wheels & that they are very forward, on hard surfce it will be a little more difficult to handle, but then again, you don't have to worry about tipping it onto its nose anywhere near as much.... On grass its much easier.

Tail draggers need rudder.

Add the throttle slowly, add a little rudder even before it starts rolling, increase/decrease that as needed, give it nice long runs to flying speed, practice the rudder movement. The stock radio does not have dual rates for rudder, but if your Tx does, set up your low @ 60% ( guestimate- tinker w/ that ) that will help you keep the stick movements a little more even & not allow those wide swings back & fro.


Jeff, it snowing again here today arrrgggggggggggg!!!!!! I GIVE UP ! [:'(]

jim pettis

The runways at one of our club's fields are only 30 - 35 feet wide, so keeping to the center is a must. I find 3/4 throttle with a touch of right rudder does just fine. Of course I always release the rudder too quickly once I'm in the air, and I ruin the effect of a nice rollout with a quick lunge to the left.

Without the droops and no flaps, the plane takes a bit of ground to get to flying speed, and as it accelerates, it gives you enough time to start adding in rudder to compensate for any type of pull, least in my case. The wheels do toe in a touch, but they have been bent and rebent so many times that who knows if they are even close to "factory" specs....

HUNTERANDJEFF

No kidding, it is snowing really hard here too!!!! Trivia question, WHAT TIME OF THE YEAR IS IT???!!!! There is two inches on the ground right now and the weatherman is talking about 6". Unbelievable.
Are you done with your retracts yet?
Jeff

mouthpiec

just to tease you a bit .....
look at the weather here in Malta ....

http://www.maltairport.com/weather/page.asp?p=5472&l=1

HUNTERANDJEFF

Thanks alot, mouthpeic, rub it in LOL! We will have very nice spring weather next month and spring around here is the prettiest time of year. All of us are really looking forward to it. Have fun flying over there in your beautiful scenery and weather.
Jeff

charlie1960

the rpms with the llx9x4 prop are 9500, same with the 12x8 2blade....
she flies a little faster with the 2 blade.....so it seems.....am waiting for my replacement blades for my zinger....11x8
seriously considering a OS 55AX

mr502go

Thanks for the report Charlie!!! =) I was JUUSSTTT talking to a buddy of mine about these little birds, and I just said I think the 55AX would be a much better fit for this plane. If you really want to wake it up, trust me when I tell ya. . . put a 4 stroke in it. Especially if you are going to run 4 blades. The 4 bladed props work better at lower RPM than they do at high revs. Two strokes make their power up high, with a deficeit (did I spell that right) in the low end. A 4 stroke on the other hand has a much more consistant power band, with a huuuggeee amount of torque down low (what the 4-blade prefers) I think for scale type props the 4 stroke, and slower prop speeds w/high pitch take the prize. There is an AMAZING difference between my P-51 with the .46AX and 11X6 apc 4 blade, and my Saito .82 equipped plane with the 11X9 four blade. the .46 seems very labored in comparison to the .82, also the response is so good with the thumper it's much easier to feather the throttle to get smoother results. Give it a whirl, I think you'll like it. From reading a page or two back, honestly the RCV sounds like the ultimate, with a Saito .82 or a YS .63 coming in a very close second place.

charlie1960

havent found any pricing on the RCV......would bet its expensive.......lol
im still playing around with props, gives me something to do. also playing with flap settings. trying to find the best between lift and drag.
have discovered a hammerhead stall is beautifully done with this plane.

PA BEN

The spoke wheels are cheap. I came down on one wheel not very hard at all and the side angle broke out the center of the wheel. I gunned the throttle and went around and landed on one wheel. It was a good landing I killed the engine and didn't break the prop. Needless to say the gear without the wheel broke the block in the wing that I had already replaced.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

[link]http://rcvengines.com/rcv60sp.htm[/link]

There prices aren't bad, I owned a couple when they first came out. They are a pain to cool and would recommend the YS or Saito. I have owned all of these, Saito is going to be the most reliable and the YS, well, it's a YS. It would be fun to see one in a PTS. Been a couple years since mine was lost, what a fun plane it was...


Shane