jcflysrc

My Feedback: (50)

FWIW, my firewall seperated one morning as I was preparing for flight. I put the starter to it and noticed a "bit" of extra play...after some epoxy and glass I have not had a problem. I am glad I caught it. This plane is a good flying plane and I am not ready to part with it just yet. To those building this bird, take some extra effort to reinforce the firwall...better safe than sorry.

hyflyer9

The original wireing diagram for the retract is on page one of the H9 build forum but I'll try and load it again

ALO 111

I also had the problem with the firewall.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I've since re-checked my Spit for balance and found that I still have to add a few oz of weight. I'll do that before bending the tailwheel or adding a wedge under the retracts.

I have another question, though. When I tried to defuel the plane at the field, nothing came out. I don't want to pull the tank unless I have to, so I'm curious if anyone has noticed how that 3rd (fill) line is hooked up? I used it for fueling, but can I use it for defueling too? Did I hook up the plumbing wrong? ( I don't think so). Probably won't be able to test fly this until Monday at this point.. Too many holiday activities and a wife keeping me on a short leash because she had some foot surgery & needs some help.

Bob

RC Specialties

Bob,

Most of the 3rd lines are pointed up or straight back like the vent so it can't reach the fuel. I use a fueling valve and fuel and defuel through that. Most times I don't use a three line setup.

Jim

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I'm going to stub that line off, and then just add Tee into the carb line. That sounds similar to what you're doing, although I bet you're using the Sullivan unit...

Bob

RC Specialties

I do use the Sullivan units because they make a better stopper. I stay away from the metal backplates because they come loose. The tee may work but you will pull from the carb and the tank. The fueling valve closes off the carb and only pulls from the tank.

Jim

hyflyer9

AS for mt self I just used a tee in the feed lint to the carb as long as you block the line to the carb you can fill and empty the tank this set up works just fine for me. But then again I am using a third line in my tank in my p39 airacrobra that works well to but for that you have to use the feed line to the carb to empty the tank. good luck and safe flying All

RC Specialties

The tee set up works okay. I just don't like messing around with the fuel line all the time. Besides, I try to keep them as short as possible and hidden in the cowl. There are several ways to deal with this issue. It is just a personal preference as to how.

Jim

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I'm going to stick with the Tee for now... I'll cut that in tonight. I just have to remember to close the carb all the way when fueling and defueling.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

Bob

hyflyer9

Just wondering how the JR 791 servo worked out for you . I two have burned out two hitech retract servo's using a 6v 1000mah battery pack and after I saw your post I figured that maybe I should try a stronger servo as well

thanks
flyerp39.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Hyflyer,

That 791 is a really strong servo, and I recommend it... ., for a mechanical retract, it's pretty realistic. It takes about 1.5 seconds to retract.

You should know that I burned my first 791 out, but it was my own stupidity.

What had happened was that I assembled two airplanes at the field, and forgot to turn the Spit's rx off before switching my tx to another plane. With the Spit receiving signals for the 'wrong' airplane, it tried to retract the gear but because the plane was on the ground, the gear wouldn't budge/retract. It was that way for about an hour before I heard the servo buzzing. By then it was too late. $60 up in smoke, literally.

I'm only mentioning this so that this doesn't happen to other retract-challenged pilots.

I'm still having a couple other issues with it.. mine is nose heavy and I haven't found a way to put tail weight on that won't show from the outside. It's not bad, but I can't taxi without it nosing over. No time to play with it this weekend, unfortunately.

Bob

hyflyer9

Thanks for the info on the 791 retract servo. I have found that if you add a wedge to the retract mount on the back side so that it rake's the gear forward a little about the thickness of a Popsicle stick to start and it will still clear when you put them back up. I ballenced mine so it is just a very slight nose down on my great planes Balance jig. this should help with your nose over problem

good luck and fly safe
flyerp39.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I haven't fogotten your wedge idea. I started to pull my gear last week but found that mine fit so tightly in their pockets that there is no room for them to 'cock' to one side as you suggest.

Did you have to carve anything away to get your retracts to do that?

I'm just curious what others have gone through before I start carving wood through critical structures.

Bob

hyflyer9

I found that it is a little tight but it had enough room to add just the one wedge under each one. I was just out this evening and did two flights with my new spitfire it flies great. I left the gear locked down so I wouldn't have to worry about them failing.
The saito 100 has plenty of power and a real good scale look and sound. But still I need to add more wedges to the retracts to get them forward enough so the plane is not nose heavy on the ground and yes I will have to carve the mounts a little to get more wedges in there. I also added the Sullivan sprung tail wheel bracket which helps with the bouncing around on the ground the 5-12lbs one is just the rite size. As for the performance I could not ask for a better flying plane it tracts nice and with just a little down trim on the first flight it is an easy plane to fly and landing with the flaps is gentle but you do have to start your approach a little further out . Not to much different than my Top Flight p39 airacrobra which I built the old school way with cover all and dope and finishing resins and lots of wet sanding and then paint and clear coat.

hyflyer9

Yes i did a little on each side and make the back side slant down and back and also add three popsicle sticks thick for the wedge that just perfict to rake the gear forward enough. I did two test flights with the new retract set up and the retracts are still strong and the ground nose over is gone the tail comes up and the plane gets up speed nice and level down the run way.

good luck
and safe flying
Daniel

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, HyFlyer. I don't know if I will get to that before the weekend, that might have to wait till next week for me to work on it. I want to pull the retracts completely out and look at the mounting (as much as I can see of it, anyway) in case I have to put a doubler or whatever in there...

Were you able to retract them OK, or were you forced to fly with the wheels permanantly down???

What did you think of the handling??? I'm expecting a rocket with my Magnum 91 up front...

Bob

hyflyer9

I did leave the gear down for now at least until I get my new retract servo as far as the the handling in the air it is a very good flyer and at full power it is very fast with my saito100 and the recommended throws are rite on but i do recommend for the first few flights you go gentle with the sticks and take wide gentle turns. as for landing by all means use your flaps and start your approach a little further out and come in under a little power she will slow down and just settle in. And with the retract mount modification it is now very good on the ground as well

good luck and safe flying

ntsmith

Hi,
Just starting the build on this and this is my first retract plane. Your circuit, although it would work, seems to be flawed. In the event of the battery being drained because of a mechanical problem it will indeed help but when exhausted it will then start to discharge the rx battery. A possible solution would be to add a suitable diode to the rx system so if it did eventualy discharge then it would simply run out the extra battery and not continue to discharge the rx one.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Nigel,

You've got my curiosity up with your comment? How would the retract servo discharge the Rx battery if the hookup to the rx was only via the signal line and the ground? I can't see the signal line passing that much current...

Bob

Tisoy909

My Feedback: (21)

Hey Everyone,
I was just messing around with Youtube the otherday and put up a video after tuning the Saito 100 on my H9 Spit.
Enjoy.
Louie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3Q8_xO7GXM

ntsmith

My mistake. I was thinking you were doing it and keeping the red wire. Clearly, in its absence, nothing can be drained. However, it may be left on if you were to use a doide in the lead.

ntsmith

At first I thought the video was taken in your living room - due to the carpet. Now that would have been an advert for Saito with clean engines. Yet I doubt er indoors would agree

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I power my retracts with a separate battery, but don't use a switch. I think that the current drain at idle is only 7ma (I have to test that). As long as there is no strain on the wheels, the battery should last the whole day. And at the end of the day when i break the plane down, the battery gets disconnected...

Comments, anyone?

Bob

warbird51

My Feedback: (12)

My H9 Spitfire is ready for a test flight on Fathers Day. Mine has a Saito 100 with the Kaleo scale exhaust and Spring Air retracts. It do look purdy!![sm=thumbs_up.gif]