Dan Vincent

I like the special one Rob showed a little better becaus4 the ink one has a very tiny tube and it takes a while to suck up some fuel. You can do small primes easily but a little control on the larger tube would do the same.

Rob's looks more suitable to me but the Ink one will work if you don't have anything else.

Jim Thomerson

A cautionary tale. I was running an MVVS 09 on the bench with an APC 7 x 4. I got careless and did not tighten the hold downs between runs. I am standing behind the engine and I see that it is coming loose. I reached out to pull the fuel line off and kill it. Too late, it whiped around and I caught it by the 7 x 4 in my hand. Fortunately I had a leather glove on and it really stung where the prop hit my palm, but I didn't even get a bruise out of it. When I throw away a worn-out leather glove, I look at all the slices and cuts and think, "Thank you Glove!" A leather glove is not 100% protection, but it will save you a lot of grief.

gcb

Jim,

How do the MVVS .09's run on the 7x4? I use an 8x4 on mine, but I have only run them enough to break them in. Nice running engines!

I did have one that had a loose venturi screw (missed that) and the venturi started rotating when I started it. My fear was that the needle would rotate into the prop arc.

Back in the fifties I ALWAYS used a glove when starting diesels, even after I learned to start them. I usually flip left handed and after I wore out the left glove I used the right glove on the left hand. Saved lots of cuts and lessened lots of pain. I guess I got older and dumber, I don't use a glove anymore. [&o]

George

paw080

Hi Rocket Rob, you said:

Dan, thanks for the Ollie photos
I've never even seen one in real life

And I've always been hesitant to buy a cs version thinking I just won't appreciate it - fake chinese copy

Rocket,
I just want to advise you to be very careful if you're going to buy a CS Ollie MkIII repro. Please make sure that it
does run well and has some time on it. The CS repro is a paradox; it of course isn't as well finished as the original
Ollie, but.........If you find a well made CS repro you are in for a surprise. I have both an original MKIII and a CS repro.
I bought my Ollie new, in the original box and oil paper wrap, it's got 45 minutes of breakin time. I ran in my CS repro
the same way for 45 minutes. Then I test ran them; the CS was test run 10 minutes after I tested the original.
Using the same fuel and the same prop, the CS Ollie repro turned that same prop, 1100 rpm faster than the original
Olliver! I corroborated this disparity(fortunate!) wih Allen Heinrich. He got the same result as I did. I boxed up the
original Oliver, which was going into a CLC Tomahawk(that's a 365 sq" CL model for you RC guys), and I mounted the
CS repro instead. The CS Ollie pulls that CLC Tomahawk around very well, I fly it on 58' x .015" lines, it will fly tight overhead
even in 12-15 mph breezes. I'm using a Taipan 8x6 and my own formula fuel provided by Red Max. I've used this formula
for almost 20 years now, and most of it purchased through Red Max. If I ever figure out how to post a pic, I'll put it up
here and also a pic of my CLC Super Clown powered by a Marz 2.49 diesel. Thanks;
Tony G

Dan Vincent

Several years ago a couple of friends from Scotland were over here competing in the "Jets Over Deland" event and when thay came over to my house we were talking about their control-line combat diesel event in the UK.

I asked them what engine was their favorite and they both said the Oliver Tiger. They said Olivers were getting scarce so they also use the CS Oliver copies. They said the routinely interchanged engines and the CS performed as well as the original.

They also said they were having a rough time getting them in the UK and they were quite expensive. I called James and three days later we had three CS Olivers for them to take back to the UK. They were blown away by how much cheaper they could buy engines here.

I was very encouraged by the way my CS .09 Oliver started so easily and it seems to be a real bear. Time will tell, I plan to run it on the bench a lot more.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Tony,
Thank you for your insite.
Could your ollie just want more time and TLC?
I would love to see your installations in your planes.
Thank you again for your experiences.
I almost pulled the plug tooday when I saw the ebay add for one and the money going to an china earthquake charity - almost got me - may look again. Thanks Rob

Applehoney

My Feedback: (3)

>a 7-6 isn't a lot of prop for an Oliver Tiger Cub.

I used to fly a Cub on a 7x4 back in the 70's - lovely little engine - in an FAI model. My last FAI, before I got disillusioned with the rules,at a UK Nats .. they all smiled at the small airplane and the waft of diesel fuel down the line .... not so much after the fourth max ... but d/t onto a fence put paid to the wing.

Lou Crane

Dan,

Replying to your original question...

You can buy small aquarium airline tubing in about 6' coils at most any pet shop, or larger chain hardware, or Wal-Mart with a pet section. It has a few, easy to live with, quirks. It seems to be nearly identical to the old clear fuel line we used in the early days for spark, glow and diesel. Check the inside and outside diameters, tho: some of it is too large...

Its problems? Not much heat resistance if you plan to use it on a hot muffler to tap pressure for fuel feed... Not relevant? OK....

It gets brittle on exposure to fuel for any of the three ignition engine types in a relatively short time - weeks, during flying season, for example.

As it starts to harden, it takes a 'set' around fuel or NVA nipples, loosening the fit and seal some. At the (cheap) price, that's just another simple maintenance point to keep in mind.

If that Sullivan Gas tubing is silicone, of course it will swell to double or greater size on exposure to kerosene and/or ether. I think I know the Sullivan stuff, and it isn't. ASIR, it is very thick wall, stiff and a fairly dark blue?? Probably specially developed material for gasoline fueled bigger engines...

The aquarium airline is a bit stiff to stretch a short piece to make a collar to double up on whatever fitting end, but that shouldn't be needed during its admittedly brief useful life. At least, I've never had this stuff grow a hairline crack from a tubing burr the way silicone line does...

Also, if you have access to hospital supplies, IV tubing is more flexible, and possibly more durable. Haven't tried it, but it should stand up to our fuel ingredients.

I prefer a transparent fuel line for diesels - it's worth knowing whether too little or too much is flowing.

paw080

Hi RocketRob, the original Oliver isn't going to ever catch up to the CS repro. The reason the CS Ollie runs so well is because
the metallurgy of the CS is modern and up to date. All that beautiful pollishing and smoothing of the internals of the original
does nothing for it's performance. I'll take some pics someday of my engine installations....but these are profile models so the
engines are typically side mounted, no engine offset, they're fed with uniflow tanks.
Thanks for your interest;
Tony G

gcb

for those who have seen neither, the one with a prop is a CS replica, the other is an original OT Mk-3:

Dan Vincent

George,

I just look at the case bottom If it has a bulge it's and original Oliver. If the case is straight it's a CS replica.

This is not to say some future copy cat won't finally get the "Ollie Bulge" right.

The CS may run well but it will never bring the bucks a real one gets. We're talking engine royalty here.

gcb

I bought my real one back in ~1958 from my LHS through World Engines. There was a three month waiting list, but after about a month, some folks must have dropped off the list because mine arrived. Remember they sold for $24.95 when a Fox .35 retailed for $12.95. Many folks worked for $1.00-$1.50 an hour in those days. It was an expensive engine even back then.

That's essentially why I got the CS replica. I only fly the real one on VERY special occasions. It probably only has an hour of actual running time, including break-in.

The replica has a somewhat wet nose, and I had to tinker with the needle length. It runs well after that.

George

[email protected]

George, the Oliver Tiger was the engine I wanted back in the late 1950's. Settled for a Super Tigre G-30 that served me well into the 1960's. U/C sport flying with full size Ringmasters and Flight Streaks. The larger, lighter and thicker winged Flight Streak flew the best. Later the Ringmaster Jr. and Flight Streak Jr. much faster of course. Saw duty in single channel R/C also in the early 1960's. Jack

gcb

If that's the rear intake one with BB's and a red muff, I learned to use a glove with one of those. I remember one plane I had it in caused the exhaust to feed into the rear intake and made it run terribly. I added a brass tube intake extender to get the intake above the exhaust. I regret the day I sold it. My fault, poor airplane design. I still have the .09 version (G31?).

George

Dan Vincent

George,

I have a G-31 too. They were available in both PB and BB versions.

Another little sweetie from ST was the G.33 .09. I got mine from Tim Dannels and complimented him in the break-in because it started on the very first flip and ran out the tank.
Tim said that engine was new in the box and he had never started it.

A Kingcat .09 diesel was another one that started on the very first flip.

I love diesels when I have fresh fuel, the temp and humidity and phase of the moon are correct and the gods are smiling.

Lou Crane

Dan,

This is further info on inexpensive clear fuel line:

A material I picked up at a local chain hardware store is marked along its length as: "3/16" OD X 1/8" ID VINYL, 338,048643-9288262 1ST 6/1/02." I presume the last group of characters is either the manufacture date, or the date the spec for the material was locked in. The other numbers may represent the mfr's specs for the material. The dimensions should fit any engine we need to consider.

It was quite inexpensive, and compared to hobby shop (stockist?) prices, that's welcome.

The same problems I mentioned above apply. It hardens within weeks on exposure to glow, spark or diesel fuel. It takes a stretched "set" over fittings, which fosters air leakage. It has a low tolerance for elevated temperatures... At the price, these are all tolerable. It serves well for glow, as it has NO tendency to split over metal tubing burrs, and as absolutely clear stuff, allows good observation of fuel flow - any problems - like intermittent flow, foaming or bubbles - is clearly visible.

Hospital supply IV tubing may be a transparent neoprene, which should be better on all the problem areas except possibly heat, but I haven't scored any to date.

[email protected]

George, yes you described the Super Tigre G-30 with drum induction. I never experienced the problem you did with yours. Here is a photo from a team race web site. The photo may have been by Jim Dunkin. There was an earlier version of the 2.5 cc diesel G-30 with out the red head. An .09 version G-31 and a .06 version G-32 I think. I ran the .06 for a friend a couple years back. A very nice little diesel. Jack

gcb

Don't get me wrong, there was absolutely nothing wrong with the engine. I had it mounted in a box fuselage "test bed" airplane that had a flat firewall with no fairing. That particular plane was just not good for rear intake engines. The taped-on intake extension was just a fix to make it fly that day.

George

PS: Additional thought. I used a glove because I was just learning to run diesels and, if I remember correctly, the instructions were in Italian. This was the first "large" diesel for me.

BTW, back in the fifties I did not know about fuel lines, and silicone had not been invented. I used "perfect" brand fuel line, and others of similar composition. Lines did not last long. As stated above, they got stiff. Anyone remember what plastic that was? I think the fuel also ate a few of my "Pylon" brand fuel bubbles! [&o]

injunnut1

Was someone going to post a photo of the Vibramatic REPRO engine ..... I would like to see one please someone? Thanks Much!!

Dan Vincent

I'd like to see the repro engine too.

Wonder how close it is in looks to the originals.

colingw

Interesting ... nearly all the CS replica ollies I've seen look as if the backplate isn't screwed in all the way.

gcb

Thick backplate seal.

George